• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.99-109
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• 2007

In the 19th century, a series of study by Hittorff, Semper, Ruskin, and others on architectural polychromy in various perspectives appeared. This presumed that the architectural polychromy could become an essential part of architectural composition and contribute to create new architectural style, if not, at least new architectural and cultural context of the 19th century, the period when it is considered that the stylistic evolution in architecture is absent. In the course of the stylistic development of church architecture of the 19th century in France, the architectural polychromy, grounded in a theory of representation, played a critical role as one of the main sources to create new architectural vision. The church architecture during the Second Empire in France was particularly susceptible to be influenced by this inevitable phenomenon, which signified an epistemological mutation in architectural perception beyond optical and perspective effect in the history of architecture. Here the study attempts to recognize the aesthetic value of the architectural polychromy in the 19th century, and investigate its application, as not just an aspect of architectural embellishment but an indispensable portion of architectural vocabulary, on the church architecture in France throughout the 19th century, then to define its role in creating new architectural environment.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.167-180
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• 2011

The portraits created in the age of Queen Elizabeth I show a very exquisite description about the ruff collar and cuffs representing the notable evolution of periodical costumes from a detailed viewpoint. This thesis analyzes the ruff collar and cuffs of the portraits of Queen Elizabeth I. The method used selects 32 pieces from the portraits of Queen Elizabeth I that are considered excellent depictions of a ruff collar and cuffs, to investigate size, form and decorations. Conclusively, the ruff collar tends to be extremely enlarged and thickened (coinciding with the development of glue) while the cuffs denote the aspect of double cuffs coupled with the turn-back cuffs without a change in size. These traits were widely shown from 1585 to 1587, while after 1588 the ruff cuffs completely disappeared in the portraits of Elizabeth I. At the same time, the change of a ruff collar was remarkable, the collar being in the erect position behind the head (with the use of supporters), of a consistent thickness and decoration of elaborate lace. During the transition period from the $16^{th}$ century to the $17^{th}$ century the earliest change was in cuffs followed by collars. This research is a helpful guide to detect the relatively exact date of portraits not definitively identified in the latter part of the $16^{th}$ century and to observe the microscopic evolution of costumes in the latter part of the $16^{th}$ century.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.242-256
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• 1999

A Study on the construction of Chulik in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from the excavated grave of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461∼1528) is reported in this paper. This paper first reviews the general construction methodology found in the shrouds from other graves in early 16th century revealed from a report on Chulik from the excavated grave of Kim, Heumjo. This paper finds that there exist at least three different Chulik forms according to the ratios between upper portion and lower portion in Chulik. The upper portion to the lower portion ratio grows with time. Among the three forms, this Chulik of interest falls in the first one of the three forms. This new finding of the chronological evidence for the first category of the three forms provides us the latest chronology for the first category, which is up to the year 1567. This paper also shows that the second and the third categories of Chulik in early Chosun Dynasty lasted until 1580\`s and until 1590\`s, respectively. Several remarks on construction methodology found in the Chulik of interest are also reported in this paper.

• 대한건축학회논문집:계획계
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.79-88
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the plan type of excavation remains during the Mid to Late Joseon period around Jong-ro area in Seoul. 523 building remains were selected in accordance with plan type could identified through the excavation investigation report. Among these, 276 building remains were verified to the $15-16^{th}$, 145 and 102 building were verified to the 17-18th and the $19^{th}$ century. By classifying excavation remains, four dominant plan type of the each century came out. First, -shape was the most common plan type took nearly 50 percent. In a considerable proportion of cases, this plan type seems an annex of main building. However, -shape plan type also seemed to be used for main building in some cases. ㄱ and ㄷshape plan type took the second and the third. In most cases, these types seemed typical plan used for a main housing building. For the last, ㅁshape plan type identified the most unusual. This plan type merely took under five percent but, these cases are meaningful because it shows the plan alteration from ㄷshape to ㅁshape plan type. Existence proportion between each plan types of the $15-16^{th}$ century were continued to the $18-19^{th}$century without small changes between -and ㄱ types in $17-18^h$ century. By examining selected excavation remains, installing front Toi space on ㄱ, ㄷ and ㅁshape plan type stand out clearly compared with -shape plan type. From this tendency, it could be considered that plan type became a significant factor influenced installing Toi space. Similar to periodical tendency of plan type was not changed dramatically, the rate of installing Toi space in the $15-16^{th}$ century was not changed much until the $18-19^{th}$ century. It also shows the close relation between plan type and installing Toi space. In some excavation remains, floor type in the $15-16^{th}$ century also verified. There are some points of similarities on installing typical location of On-dol, Ma-ru and Bu-eok in these excavation remains with later period housing type such as Ut-Bang-Gguk-Oem-Jib and Ddeul-Jib.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.49-61
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• 2019

본 연구는 과거 안의삼동을 유람하고 이를 기록으로 남겼던 인물들의 공간인식을 살펴보고자 관련 문헌에서 확인되는 인물들의 학파별 관계와 경관요소들을 분석함으로써 다음과 같은 결과를 도출하였다. 첫째, 안의삼동 관련 기록을 저작한 인물들은 영남 유학계보와 함께 안의삼동 일대 거주하는 지역사림을 중심으로 관계가 확인되었다. 15세기 정여창을 시원으로 16세기 남명학파 중심의 관계가 나타났으나 당시에는 학맥과 관계없이 안의삼동을 유람했었다. 17세기에는 남명학파와 퇴계학파의 대립으로 퇴계학파의 영향은 확인되지 않으며, 18세기 영남학파로 발전되면서 남명학파, 퇴계학파, 기호학파의 비중이 유사하게 나타났다. 19세기 이후에는 학맥보다는 일제 항거운동에 참여했던 애국지사의 비중이 높게 나타났다. 둘째, 안의삼동 관련 문헌에서 주로 이용되는 장소는 원학동, 화림동, 심진동 순으로 확인되었다. 관련문헌의 대상으로 이용된 주요 요소는 총 21개소로, 이 중 수승대, 모리재, 농월정, 사선대, 척수암이 주를 이루었다. 원학동의 요소들은 수승대를 중심으로 16세기 이후 주요지점으로 각광받았다. 화림동의 요소는 18세기 이후 점차 증가하는 양상을 보이고 있으나, 심진동의 경우 원학동이나 화림동에 비해 상대적으로 적은 비중을 보이고 있었다. 셋째, 안의삼동을 방문했던 인물들의 관계와 문헌 분석 결과 안의삼동에 대한 공간인식 양상은 경관 묘사, 안의삼동에서의 감회, 문헌에 내재된 상징성으로 구분되었다. 안의삼동의 경관인식은 수경관과 지형경관 중심의 묘사가 주로 확인되는데, 당시 인물들이 안의삼동을 계곡경관 중심의 명승지로 인식했을 것으로 보인다. 16·17세기 남명학파와 퇴계학파의 상호영향관계는 각 학파의 주요 인물들이 안의삼동의 유람을 수련문화로 인식하던 양상이, 18세기 유람문화의 성행과 19세기 혼란스런 정세를 거치면서 과거 선조들의 자취를 그리워하는 정서로 이어졌다. 이외에 주로 나타나는 상징적 표현은 신선세계로의 장소성이 확인됨에 따라 탈속의 장소로 인식되었을 것으로 보인다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.135-143
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• 2006

The definition of the 'Pocket', according to the Korean encyclopedia, is an accessory that a person puts in small belongings or money and carry on waist or holds with a hand. Since the pockets were not attached to the clothes at that period of time, the portable bag or pocket had been used without distinction of age or sex for carrying personal belongings. The pocket in France was also used in a similar manner, where it was used as a handbag to carry purse, comb, or a key by women during the middle ages. The pockets were decorated, made of quality material such as velvet, silk, or satin with splendid embroidery or beads. This study closely examines the history of the pocket from late 16th century around Renaissance to early 20th century in France and during the mid Cho-Sun dynasty in Korea and compares the different kinds of patterns, symbolism, and the purpose of the pockets. In addition, the relationships between the pockets, belongings, and ornament are examined as well by thoroughly investigating the unique characteristics of the pocket of each country.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.55-67
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to document an unidentified velvet fabric which is located in the Museum. The investigation was conducted by analyzing color, weaving technique. pattern of the study object. To identify the origin of the object, many references about color trends, construction methods and patterns were accessed. Two comparative objects which were dating from 1600 to 1699 in the Museum of F.I.T. were selected since they are similar to the study object. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; (1) The type of this study object is 'cut and voided velvet'. It is obtained establishing the motif as areas of cut pile so as to form a pattern, while leaving other areas of the grounded weave without pile. Two flowers and two tulips with S curved stems are composed as one unit in the vertical direction. (2) The colors used in this study object. which are ivory, smoke blue, medium orange, and yellow. are part of a new trend color in the $17^{th}$ century. (3) The vertical undulating stripe patterns are also of significance in this fabric. They seemed to be contemporary with the serpentine line which was common since the $15^{th}$ century and the vertical stripes pattern which appeared from the $16^{th}$ century. (4) The stylized tulip patterns of this study object began to appear in the early $17^{th}$ century. The stems and leaves of this patterns are less sinuous than the floral motifs of the later $17^{th}$ century. Therefore, the study object is dated to early in $17^{th}$ century because of the color combination. stripes. stylized tulips, leaves. and stems are showing the characteristics of this period.

• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.76-89
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• 2013

This study is about 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' Jeoksam and Hansam in the early days of Joseon Dynasty. A study was done regarding the records of Jeoksam and Hansam in literature, the present state of the excavated 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam, and finally a deduction of the reason for the appearance of the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam. The width of front length of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing in the early days of Joseon Dynasty is 29.5~35 cm and the width of one breath of the sleeve is 29.5~35 cm. The width of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' is 9.5~16 cm and it is relatively big. Comparing to the width of one breath of the sleeve, it is almost 1:2.2~3.6 ratio. Therefore, when the sleeve was cut, the Mu was linked in order to save fabric the gusset of sleeve had to be folded and turned, and finally it became asymmetric. As a result of the above consideration, since the width of upper garments of $16{\sim}17^{th}$ century was big, the wearing of short tops of Jeoksam or Hansam without side vent as a small 'triangle-Mu' was uncomfortable. Because of this reason, the size had no option but to become bigger. So, during the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ century, a period where mass production of fabric was difficult, the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' type was considered to be a reasonable cutting method. After the middle of $17^{th}$ century, it can be estimated that 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing disappeared according to the narrow aspect of clothing type.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.7-16
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• 2018

This study is focusing on anchogongs(按草工) in yeonggeonuigwes(營建儀軌), which were recorded with few details and in unsettled transcriptions. First, the positions and functions of anchogongs in $18^{th}$ censtury are analyzed by comparing to anchogongs in more detailed early $19^{th}$ century yeonggeonuigwes and those in extant buildings. Second, with the result, the historical significances are presumed in changing transcriptions of anchogong terms in those uigwes. In $18^{th}$ century uigwes, most of anchogongs are functioned as matbo-anchogongs and only four anchogongs in a gate building were used as jongryang-anchogongs. It is mainly because the sorts of buildings in $18^{th}$ century yeonggeonuigwes had only several varieties: most of the buildings belonging royal shrines. Transcriptions of anchogong terms had been changed for reflecting functional developments of anchogongs in $18^{th}$ century. However, reflections were much later than changes of actual functions.

• 한국사회복지학
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• 제40권
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• pp.38-67
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• 2000

The study aims to understand the traditional context of the social policies in Germany by reviewing the course of transition of the traditional, ancient and/or medieval social policies or ideas of social policy in the country as a typical example of such transitions, which started being passed over to the modern civic society at the end of the medieval age, that is, during the 15th and 16th centuries. One of the reasons why the domestic interest in the German social policy is higher than the actual research achievements and frequently discussed seems explainable because a social security or welfare policy through a social insurance was initiated in Germany for the first time over the world in the 19th century. Notwithstanding, however, that all of us know that such a policy was not made in a day, cases are sometimes visible where focuses are easily drawn only to the periodic and economical phenomena in the 19th century and the strategic option of Preussen. Moreover, no literature which integrates thoroughly or publicly the social policies in Germany has been introduced at home, and some research books or study papers, if any, are inclined to concentrate merely on the social policies after the 19th century. Indeed, there are views, not rare, that a social policy of a national dimension was initiated along with the establishment of capitalism or an industrial society. According to such views, an industrial society or capitalism was begun to shape in the 19th century, and it is accordingly so national to lay our focuses on the social policies after the century. But from the fact that a national social policy existed much farther before the capitalism was established, it can be inferred that such policies were inevitable in all societies where a social issue existed. In the case of our country which experienced a more serious separation from the tradition than other countries by her rapid industrialization and Westernization, it is true that some traditional traces remain still regardless of their actual realization.