• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.87-101
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to identity the representative flower patterns in the Joseon Dynasty and investigate their chronological transitions. In the early Joseon Dynasty (i.e. 16th century), lotus patterns were very popular. Often lotus patterns were twisted around by ivy-leaves or decorated with treasures pattern in the margin. In the mid Joseon Dynasty (i.e. from 17th to mid 18th century), however, lotus patterns evolved from the typical lotus and ivy pattern and diversified into four types. In the 19th century, lotus pattern almost disappeared from the textiles of everyday dresses and were only found in the textiles of formal dresses or in special cases as in the cover pages of Buddhist scriptures. Poeny patterns was rarely used in textiles of 16th century, presumably because of the huge popularity of the lotus pattern. However, suddenly in the 17th century, Poeny patterns appeared quite frequently. There were 3 types of Poeny patterns. Poeny patterns became more popular over the years and it finally became a primary motive in textiles patterns for 100 years starting in the late 19th century. There were two types of Poeny patterns : one was realistic and true to life even in sizes, the other was more symbolic. Textile patterns combining four kinds of flowers started to appear from the late Koryo Dynasty but Flower patterns representing four seasons with distinct shapes appeared only in the 17th century. They could be categorized into three types. In the late 18th century, Flower patterns representing four seasons no longer appears in textile patterns, presumably due to a new preference for lucky omen over natural motives.

• Sijohaknonchong
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• v.22
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• pp.195-223
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• 2005

The Younsijo is a stream of Korean poem. not simply an aggregate of stanzas, but an organic structure. Younsijo was an appeared in the 16th century. The 16th century was focused on the literature of Sadaebu (noble family, 사대부). And the make an appearance is Danhyungsijo (simply-sijo, 단형시조), Yonsijo and Kasa(가사). In that case, a social stratum is why does singing each other form. The 16th century set metaphysics(성리학) as the national ideology. Metaphysics became most prevalent at the end of the 16th century. Yonsijo also appreared during the 16th century and was closeiy related to the idea of metaphysics. Both Younsijo and metaphysics were formulated by noble family, The Yonsijo was Formed in 16th century. And the 17th century was succession. The Yonsijo in 16th century is devide to Kanghosijo (강호시조) and Hunminsijo (훈민시조). Also, Kanghosijo is devide to Youkgaline Younsijo (육가계 연시조) and Sasigaline Yonsijo (사시가계 연시조). Hunminsijo used an expressive on the order of Oryoun(오륜). Therefore, this study is forced on , , and . These things, all of the end of the utility. This paper deals with Danhyungsijo and Kasa with main emphasis on works of Songgang(송강) Jungcheol(정철). The reason for dealing one writer's works is the discussion needs consistent standard. In analyzing Songgang's Danhyungsijo, Younsijoand and Kasa, one would discern the differences among three. As a result, one could conclude that both Danhyungsijo and Kasa mainly projects individual's emotional esthetic feeling, particularly, Danhyungsijo for emotional implication, and for in-depth emotional revealing. Younsijo were chosen as it supplements the shortcoming of Sijo(as it consists of three-line only) to effectively contain the ideas of metaphysics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.117-133
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• 2014

This thesis aims to investigate the morphologic relationship among the neckline, collar, and hair style, in which the width and height were measured by selecting the representative costumes from 16th to 19th centuries. The pieces of 170 pictures selected by fashion experts were cut in the same condition, with the part of the end of shoulder, head, and chest all placed on the equal level. The products were directly measured by a team of 3 specialists for verification of this study, of which results were calculated into average. The values of output were categorized into the unit of decade and finally into a graph of variation, in which the trend and relationship were evaluated according to the width and height. In 16th century, the width and height of the neckline were inversely proportional to those of hair style, while those of collar were proportional to those of hair style. In 17th century, the width and height of the hair style were proportional to those of neckline and collar. In 18th century, those of the neckline were inversely proportional to the hair style, with no collar found. In 19th century, the width of the neckline and collar were proportional to that of the hair style, while the height of the neckline and collar were inversely proportional to that of the hair style. The analysis of the morphologic relationship among neckline, collar, and hair style resulting from this study revealed that the change of the hair style took place corresponding to those of neckline and collar. Generally, the width of the hair style was found to be more resistant to change, compared to those of neckline and collar that were more susceptible. The height of the neckline was more resistant to change, compared to those of the hair style and collar presenting their frequently fluctuating height. Conclusively, the factor of height rather than that of width showed more dominant proportions, because the various forms of the collar and hair style evolved in terms of the height rather that width, relative to that of the neckline.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.102-117
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• 2008

This study shows the badge system for military officials of Joseon dynasty. The badge system for military officials of the 15th century consists of rank badges with tiger and leopard for the first and second ranks and rank badges with bear for the third rank. According to the code of laws, military officials are supposed to wear the rank badges with four different kinds of animals in Joseon dynasty. However, the badge system shown in the code of laws sometimes does not match with the badges in practices. Based on the literature, remaining badges and the badges in portraits, six different kinds of badges with animals are found : First, rank badges with tiger and leopard were used until the late 16th century. Second, rank badges with tiger were found in the period between the early 17th century and the latter 18th century. Third, rank badges with Haechi were found in the early 17th century. Fourth, rank badges with lions can be found in remains of the mid 17th century, the literature and the portrait of the late 18th century. Finally, the rank badges with double leopards or with single leopard were found from a portrait dated the late of 18th century to the last period of Joseon dynasty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1102-1118
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate the underwear design shown in historical dramas set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ century, woman's bodies were highly restricted, in order to analyze the symbolism of the movie costume and provide basic data for the future education of the department of movie costume design. For a study method, literature relating to movie costumes and underwear as well as captured images from 29 historical dramas set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ century was reviewed. Among them, data from 17 movies where underwear and crinoline were observed was analyzed. Historical movies, set in the $18^{th}$ century Europe exposed underwear more frequently and decisively than movies set in the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ centuries. For the figure wearing underwear, its expression effect was maximized by the implication function of costumes. Underwear can easily express the time and space background and symbolize the character's social and economic position, attitudes, and values. In addition, the exposure of underwear can reveal characters' internal expressions, such as mental status, taste, temper, intention, mood, time and space display. The result of observing the underwear shown in movies reveals that underwear plays a subjective role in expressing ideal femininity as a woman of a particular age, modesty, social position symbolism and eroticism that depended on the situation. It is expected that the study will provide an opportunity to reconsider the function of underwear, which is different from the meaning of costume history, and its role as a means of communication by considering the change of underwear by age.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.37
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• pp.279-306
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• 2009

This study is purposed to observe conventional expression of Hangul Ganchal. The conventional expression of Hangeul Ganchal had set a pattern from 16th century to 17the century after establishing its regular form. It is mainly found in the introduction and the conclusion of the letters. Especially, they are concretely shown at an address form and greeting in the former, a farewell and the close in the latter. Generally, a native tongue was often used in address form at Suncheon Kim's Eongan in 16th century and Hyun-Poong Kwak's Eongan in 17th century. However, a Chinese character was commonly found in the introduction at Jingbo-Eongan-Dok in 19th century. Specifically, in case of response, the conventional expression of 'read your letter' was added in greeting part. In Suneon of 16th century, this type was gradually established to the form, and in Hyuneon of 17th century, a native tongue set a pattern. However, Jingeon of 19th century, a Chinese character was mainly used instead of a native tongue. The changing form of farewell and the close showed similar pattern as the aspect of greeting form. They seemed to be more simple and repetitive in Hyuneon compared with the form of Suneon. Furthermore, a Chinese character was dominated in the conclusion of letters in Jingeon. Consequently, the paper examined the two types of letter between Hangul letters and Chinese character letters were strongly associated with each other. It is expected that more details research will be coped with next study.

• Journal of Educational Research in Mathematics
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.409-428
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to examine the features of the curriculum of Chosun-Sanhak(朝鮮算學), the mathematics of Chosun Dynasty in the 17th to 18th century. The results of this study are as follows. First, the goal of education, teaching-learning method and assessment of Chosun-Sanhak in the 17th to 18th century had not changed since the 15th century. Second, the changes in the field of the organization of mathematical contents were observed. Chosun-Sanhak in that time was higher in the hierarchy than in the 15th to 16th century. The share of the equation and geometry had increased and various topics of mathematics had been studied as well. Third, in the field of the characteristics of mathematical contents, the influx of European mathematics and the uniqueness of Chosun-Sanhak had been observed. In conclusion, The 17th to 18th century was the time when Chosun-Sanhak had pursued the identity escaping from the effects of Chinese-Sanhak.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.44-46
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• 2001

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.36
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• pp.313-334
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• 2003

Historically, hawking/falconry refer to the hunting for pheasants, birds and hares using a hawk. In spite of its long history, not so many studies were found and/or have been performed. Examining researches, hawking has been enjoyed solely by the royal families until the early Joseon Dynasty but it has been popularly spread among the people in the 18th century, emphasizing recreational factors of it. The researches, however, dealt only with the limited data published by the government while a diary, Swaemirok written by Oh Hi-Mun, an intellectual in the 16th century noted the realities and characteristics of hawking at that time. According to the diary, hawking has been spread all over the country in the 16th century and the people as well as the royal families enjoyed it. The hawking season has been continued for a year except for summertime trees and plants grow thick. For the hawking, they need to be permitted officially or under a tacit consent. In those days, beef and pork are very rare. A peasant acted as, therefore, an excellent alternative and was served up for a religious service. In view of the truth, it could be stated that peasant-hawking was important for recreational activities as well as for their living.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.205-216
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• 2000

The purpose of study examined of historical changes of western men's nightclothes from middle ages to the modern ages and analyzed functions and features of men's nightclothes. This study presented meaning and importance of men's nightclothes. The method of study researched the many literatures and internet sources. Until medieval age, men slept naked or in a day-shirt. In the 16th century, a nightshirt was worn in bed. A night-cap was usual, in rather more elaborate form, also worn by day in the house, and even outdoors. In the 17th century, nightshirt was elabrated with ruffles and lace. The nightshirts of 18th century, resembled the day-shirt except that it was slightly longer and fuller in cut. The turn of 19th century, men weared nightshirt with a high folding collar, one button and night-cap of jellybag shape. In the early 19th century, nightshirt had a plain turned-down collar, buttoned at the neck. A night-cap with colored tassel was usual. The middle of 19th century, a nightgown was reaching to the ankle. Pyjamas, in the 1890s, were steadily replacing the nightshirt, before long pyjamas had become generally accepted in place of the nightshirt. A pyjamas which preseverved his male dignity by giving him trousers. Man's ingenuity also modified his nigntclothes so that these took on sexual characteristic. In 20th century, the fabrics had become lighter in weight, and the choice of materials wider. By 1930s, nightclothes had become the man's most colorful garment.