• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제27권6호
• /
• pp.99-109
• /
• 2023

Loewe Craft Prize is currently the most influential craft contest. During the contest, contemporary craftworks, as art with excellent aesthetic value, are selected as finalists but there are no enough studies on them as subjects. This study aimed to investigate contemporary textile pieces found in the fashion brand Loewe's Craft Prize, a Loewe Foundation Craft Prize and elucidate their expressive characteristics. The methodology of the study was a qualitative study that derives the expressive characteristics of the works within the scope of the study through case analysis along with theoretical reviews. The selection of research subjects was based on 22 works of textile pieces among the works selected as finalists for the last six years since the first year of the prize in 2016. The analysis of textile pieces showed first, the emphasis on traditional expression, second, the development of new expressive techniques for the material, and third, the pictorial character revealed in flat pieces. The expressive characteristics of contemporary textile art shown in the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize, derived based on such results were, first, the confirmation of the unique capabilities of craft through the inheritance of tradition, second, the rediscovery of textile properties through material experimentation, and third, the possibility of expanding the field of textile due to the pictorial character.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제5권1호
• /
• pp.17-24
• /
• 2003

Objet, which showed up with the art of 20C, is now an important element giving a creative idea to fashion designers in modern times. The purpose of the study is to review how the objet technique was paid attention and recreated in the fashion, through the analysis of works, and the formative features of each technique for fashion, in order to identify the connection of arts and fashion, and the position of fashion as art. The techniques using object appeared in the 20th century fashion are as follows: First, papier-colle, which is adding printed materials onto the surface, is such a technique that adds cut-feeling materials to impose a new texture, or arrange again the cloth-cuts to create a different clothing from the existing one, which went to the extension of materials in the fashion. Second, collage of daily materials expresses directly and emotionally through direct presentation of the objets. Especially, collage of patch-work is reproduced into a new fabric depending on the objet used, giving a standing over the form. Third, ready-made which presents the material meaning only of the objet expands the range of objets which could be used in the fashion by introducing the daily materials having a meaning itself as a fashion. Forth, an attempt to approach to the objets of popular image by designed techniques come out in modern fashion as a graffiti look or a typography look, making the clothing itself an objet to transmit a message directly to the masses. Introduction of various objets and development of expression technique brought out the diversification of materials, and enrichment and extension of expression sphere, which resultingly spreaded the freedom of expression and progressed into the art sphere, making a direct motif to solidify its standing as a formative art.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제20권2호
• /
• pp.124-133
• /
• 2016

Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제17권6호
• /
• pp.42-50
• /
• 2005

Silk fabrics are widely used as high quality cloth, interior, quilting and bedding materials because of having excellent touch, drape, resilience and low specific gravity characteristics. But, many waste silk materials are produced during the reeling, spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing processes. From this fact, the recycle of waste silks is interested in studying for the application of industrial textile materials such as filter, oil absorbent and wound protector. Thus, this research has surveyed the decolorizing and carding characteristics in order to recycle the colored waste silk materials. As the results, the carding condition of waste silk fabrics was optimized with different fiber lengths and curding passage. In addition, the fiber failure mechanism from the wasted silk microdamage caused by carding process was investigated. Also it was found that longitudinal and transverse cracks, abrasion and pilling were formed on the surface of wasted silk fibers.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제20권3호
• /
• pp.1-16
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the differences in color, pattern, and texture of functional materials of outdoor clothing according to new senior women's psychological comfort. The data were collected from 163 female respondents aged 55-64 living in Busan. The results of the study are as follows. First, both the high and low psychological comfort groups preferred soft material the most. The high psychological comfort group particularly preferred soft textures and highly evaluated textured material in general. Second, both groups mostly preferred plain patterns while the high psychological comfort group preferred the dot pattern more. Third, in terms of colors, the high psychological comfort group preferred navy and purple, while the low psychological comfort group preferred brown. As to achromatic colors, both groups preferred black the most with the high psychological comfort group preferred gray and white more than the other group. Fourth, the high psychological comfort group preferred colors and patterns of clothing that made one look the most slimming, while the low psychological comfort group strongly preferred colors and patterns of clothes. Therefore, our results suggest that new senior women have a strong interest in outdoor clothing, not only in terms of textile functions, but also having interest in textile designs. In particular, the new silver women value psychological comfort in colors more than patterns of textile design.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제26권9호
• /
• pp.1366-1377
• /
• 2002

For the commerce of sensual goods such as textile products, feel and touch is very important. Although on-line B2B commerce in textile materials are increasing currently, off-line sample exchange process is also required in order to make a decision. So far it is evident that the means of on-line communication is not sufficient to both customers and suppliers. The aim of this study is to improve the e-catalogues, which is the equivalent of showroom of off-line business, by analyzing information items offered in currently opened B2B sites and to categorize the essential information items to be included in the I-catalogues. The study was carried out as follows: First e-catalogues of many B2B sites were compared and analyzed from the viewpoint of customers, apparel manufacturers. Second, apparel manufacturers were interviewed to find out what causes the inconvenience, which prevent them to do B2B commerce. Third, on the basis of these n analysis, the researcher categorized information items of the e-catalogue. The apparel manufacturers were interviewed on the feasibility of the information items researcher suggested forth, With the results, we proposed an e-catalogue of 53 information items. Fifth, Another point of this study is that we tried to clarify the terminology for e-catalogue. Often textile traders and apparel manufacturers understand a same information with difference.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제27권1호
• /
• pp.11-19
• /
• 2019

The mass production after the industrialisation and the fast changing fashion cycles in today's world resulted in buying clothes and home textiles more than we need and discarding them before they complete their life cycles. This causes vast amounts of textile waste that creates environmental issues. Upcycling is the creative process of transforming clothing and textile waste by reusing deadstock or used fabric to create new garments and products. It holds importance in terms of sustainability, reducing waste and environmental pollution. During the process of upcycling, certainly the creativity and innovation are the key words because to reuse a product to a better value needs a creative mind, aesthetic consciousness, innovative look and knowledge and it is quite different from a normal design procedure. There is a delicate level of aesthetics which carries the reused materials to a higher value. The handling of the materials, knowing how to manipulate the waste material, the techniques available to apply to surfaces, the concept of two and three dimension on textiles and clothing, contributions of other branches of art such as sculpture and painting all help the designer to reach a higher aesthetic value in the upcycled product in this process. In the study; it was aimed to raise awareness, to attract attention to sustainable fashion and also to contribute to sustainable development as an upcycling design project realized with students in textile and fashion design education taken as an example.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제11권2호
• /
• pp.242-251
• /
• 2009

Traditional patterns of Korea vary greatly and have excellent value in terms of artistic merit. Nevertheless because there are not enough the research and development of them, traditional patterns of Korea are not yet recognized in internationally aesthetic value. Therefore the development of designs modernizing traditional patterns of Korea is urgently needed. In this study, I chose Four gracious plants as the subject materials of textile design development. Before everything I examined data of Four gracious plants expressed on Blue and white porcelain. And I chose data that are suitable to express modern image among them. I set my face to develop the textile design of Korean images by adding modern scenes with them. Also, I were trying to make fashion products like muffler and tie by using techniques such as burn out, crayon dying and spray dyeing.

• 접착 및 계면
• /
• 제13권1호
• /
• pp.45-50
• /
• 2012

폴리케톤(polyketone, PK) 섬유는 고무의 강화재로 사용하기 위해서 최근 개발되고 있는 소재이다. 섬유의 고무와의 접착성을 향상시키기 위하여 플라즈마로 표면을 개질하였다. 산소 플라즈마 처리에 의한 섬유표면의 물리적 형태변화를 관찰하기 위하여 주사전자현미경과 원자현미경을 이용하여 관찰하였다. 섬유표면의 화학적 조성변화를 XPS (X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy)를 이용하여 알아보았다. 최종적으로 이러한 변화가 PK 섬유와 고무와의 계면접착력에 어떠한 영향을 미치는지를 microdroplet debonding 시험을 통해 분석하였다. 플라즈마 처리에 의하여 섬유표면에 산소함유기들이 증가하는 결과를 보였으며, 처리시간과 처리전력이 증가함에 따라 에칭에 의한 표면조도(RMS roughness)가 증가하였다. 그러나 장시간의 플라즈마 처리조건에서는 표면에 degradation이 발생하여 오히려 표면조도가 감소하는 결과를 보였다. PK 섬유와 고무와의 계면전단강도는 처리시간 60 s의 80 W, 처리전력 60 W의 180 s에서 처리한 경우에 최대 계면전단강도를 나타내었다. 그러나 그 이상으로 증가하면 degradation이 발생하면서 계면전단강도가 감소하였다.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국염색가공학회 2012년도 제46차 학술발표회
• /
• pp.75-75
• /
• 2012

탄소섬유는 전구체의 종류에 따라 PAN계, 피치계 그리고 레이온계로 나뉘며 최종 탄소섬유의 특성에도 차이가 있는 것으로 알려져 있다. 최근에는 PAN계 탄소섬유가 세계 시장의 대부분을 차지하고 있으며, PAN계 탄소섬유의 초경량, 고강도, 고탄성, 내약품성 그리고 열안정성 등의 우수한 특성으로 최첨단 고기능성 제품의 복합재로 많이 이용되고 있다. 그러나 탄소섬유가 가지고 있는 높은 열전도성은 적용에 따라 단점으로 작용될 수도 있다. 예를 들면, 로켓 엔진의 노즐이나 원자로의 구조물 그리고 극한조건용 구조재료 등, 고강도 단열특성을 요하는 최첨단 복합재로 응용 범위를 넓히는데 한계로 작용한다. 레이온은 최초의 탄소섬유 전구체였으나 공정상 경제성이 떨어지는 이유로, 지금은 고탄성을 요구하는 특수 목적으로만 소량 생산되고 있다. 레이온의 주원료는 셀룰로오스이며 셀룰로오스는 지구상에서 가장 흔한 재료이므로 오늘날 셀룰로오스를 보강재로 이용하려는 연구가 활발히 진행되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 탄소섬유의 열전도도를 낮추기 위한 방법으로 안정화셀룰로오스를 첨가한 PAN용액을 출발물질로 탄소섬유를 제조하고 특성 연구를 진행하였다. PAN용액에 셀룰로오스의 분산성을 향상시키기 위해 셀룰로오스를 열처리하였다. 이 과정에서 얻어진 안정화 셀룰로오스의 수율을 높이기 위해 셀룰로오스를 난연 처리하였으며, 그 결과 안정화셀룰로오스의 수율을 향상시킬 수 있었다. 안정화셀룰로오스를 첨가시킨 PAN계 탄소섬유의 물리적, 기계적 그리고 열적 특성을 SEM, XRD, 만능 인장시험기, TGA 그리고 Laser Flash Method 등을 통해 주요 특성 및 변화를 관찰한 결과, 순수한 PAN계 탄소섬유의 특성과 유사한 결과를 얻었다. 향후 몇 가지 공정상의 문제점을 개선한다면 흥미로운 결과를 기대할 수 있을 것으로 본다.