• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.827-832
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to scientifically proof possibility of development of natural dye which has antimicrobial activity with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum. For that silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts were tested for anti-microbial activity. Bacterials used for test of anti-microbial activity were Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, Klebsiella pneumoniae ATCC 4352 and Trichophyton mentagrophytes IFO 5466. The results of experiment were as follows ; 1. The more the number of times of dyeing increase the more value of K/S increased. 2. Reduction of bacterium against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 of silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts was 99.9% without reference to the number of times of dyeing. 3. Reduction of bacterium against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 of silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts was 99.9% after irradiation of 20 hour without reference to the number of times of dyeing. 4. Reduction of bacterium against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 of silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts was over 94.8% after dry cleaning. As above silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts were acquired a high anti-microbial activity against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.496-501
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• 2009

In this study, a kiwifruit-produced protease was used to improve the quality of the wool and silk fabrics. The wool and silk were treated with the actinidin from kiwifruit. Following this protease treatment, changes in the surface of a single yarn of the fabrics were observed via both an optical microscope and a scanning electron microscope (SEM). In order to determine the amount of dye uptake in the fabric, changes in the K/S value of the wool and silk were measured by spectrophotometric analysis. Also, we performed a tensile strength examination to determine variation in their mechanical properties. By increasing the protease treatment time to 48h, the dyeing properties of fabrics were enhanced, and the surfaces of the single yarns of the fabrics became smoother, because of the removal of soil and scale in them. However, no mechanical changes were detected in the fabrics. Thereby, we suggest that the kiwifruit-produced actinidin treatment can improve the quality of the fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.791-799
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• 2014

For development of dyeability, the rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. The merit of padding-based dyeing was easier color reproduction over traditional hand dyeing where various colors and color fastness to light and laundering are hard to obtain. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed rayon fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curve and tensile energy per unit length of the rayon fabrics were increased, but the tensile resilience of fabrics were decreased. The value of shear stiffness and shear hysteresis were increased. Also compression resilience and linearity of compression thickness were increased. The rayon fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight increase as the number of padding increase. As repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice were increased, among the 6 hand values, the item of koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness), fukurami(fullness and softness) were increased. while Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Shari(crispness) were greately decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabric was gradually increased as the padding times of dyeing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.112-118
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• 2020

This paper examined the water repellency, water proofing and water vapor permeability of twelve types of woven fabrics for sports wear clothing. Their physical properties were compared and discussed with the fabric structural parameters and surface finishing effect. A water repellent property of 100% was obtained in the coated or laminated water repellent finished fabrics; in addition, cotton/nylon breathable composite fabrics treated with a laminated finishing and with low fabric density showed a 90% water repellency. Water proofing fabric above 6,000 mm H₂O hydraulic pressure was achieved by coated or laminated finishing; however, high density fabric or medium-level coated fabrics exhibited 100% water repellent and low water proofing characteristics. Superior water vapor permeability characteristics with good water repellency and proofing properties were achieved at the 2.5 layered low density and with 0.7 - 0.9 cover factor nylon fabrics treated with hydrophilic laminated finishing. The regression analysis for examining the effects of fabric structural parameters and surface finishing such as coating and laminating to the water vapor permeability exhibited a high determination coefficient of fabric structural parameters of 63.5%; in addition,, main factors among fabric structural parameters appeared to be cover factor and fabric thickness per weight. Coating and Laminating factors exhibited determination coefficient of water vapor permeability parameters of 36.5%.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.425-431
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate washing effects according to the rinsing conditions and the characteristics of soiled fabrics. In this study rinsing conditions including rinsing cycle, time, temperature, and bath ratio were examined. The foamability of rinsing bath was also examined. The quantity of LAS in the rinsing bath and extracts of test fabrics was analyzed after washing and rinsing, respectively. The results of these experiments were as follows: The washing effects of soiled fabrics were varied from the kinds of soils and rinsing conditions. The removal of soils from fabrics was increased by the first rinsing after washing effectively. The priorities of rinsing conditions were rinsing temperature> rinsing time > rinsing cycles> references. Foamability was result from residual LAS in rinsing bath and fabrics extracts after rinsing. The residual quantity of LAS was references > rinsing cycles> rinsing time> rinsing temperature, which shown rinsing temperature was the most efficient factor of the rinsing performance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.381-388
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was investigate the dyeing property on chitosan crosslinked cotton fabric with cochineal at variable conditions. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics dyed using cochineal were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability(K/S) of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 20minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The dyeability(K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of crosslinked chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing and light fastness were increased by mordanting, especially Cu and Fe mordanting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.377-384
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• 2008

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of gallnut was studied. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were been dyed with aqueous extract of gallnut and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally, the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(gallnut) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics carried out simultaneously in the mercerization bath. The dyeability(K/S), which was obtained by CCM observation, remarkably increased as the concentration of chitosan was high. Dye ability of gallnut showed higher toward chitosan treated cotton than controlled cotton fabric under condition at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 min. The hue value indicated reddish yellow with increasing the crosslinked chitosan concentration. And the color fastness to washing and light was the almost the same.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.231-236
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• 2019

This study investigated the proper dyeing conditions, color fastness and functionality of wool fabrics dyed with Zizania latifolia Turcz. We also tried to improve light fastness through treatment with benzophenone ultraviolet absorber. The dyeing of wool fabrics using Zizania latifolia Turcz was good even without pretreatment or mordanting treatment. Optimal wool fabric dyeing conditions were colorant concentration of 200% (o.w.f.), dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, dyeing time of 80 minutes and a dye bath pH of 3. Color fastness of dyed wool fabrics to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light was 4-5, 5, 4-4-5 (acidic), 4-5 (alkaline) and 2 respectively. The results after treatment with ultraviolet absorber for improving the fastness of daylight were improved to 3-4 grade. The UV protection rate were increased after dyeing and the deodorization of ammonia gas improved to 98%. Bacterial reduction rate (Staphylococcus aureus) of wool fabrics was excellent at 99.9%. All dye fastness (except for light fastness) was excellent; in addition, the functionality of wool fabrics dyed with Zizania latifolia Turcz also improved. The results are expected to be applied to various fields because they indicate excellent results after treatment with ultraviolet absorber for improving the fastness of daylight.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.778-789
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• 2011

The natural dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. Mixed components of flavonoid and tannin seem to be the components of guava leaf extract. The temperature and time for dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. The highest K/S value was recorded at pH 3. Fe-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. High K/S values were shown in the post-mordanting of dyed fabrics at $40^{\circ}C$ and the pre-mordanting of dyed fabrics at $90^{\circ}C$. After repeated dyeing and mordanting, various color change occurred with mordant treatment. Surface colors were changed to YR color in alkaline water extract and to Y color in acidic water and ethanol extract, respectively. The washing fastness was level 3-4 for Sn-mordanted fabrics and level 4 for Fe-mordanted fabrics, and the dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory with level 3-4. The light fastness was above level 4 only when Fe-mordanting was conducted, and the rest of dyed fabrics was not fast enough. In the antibacterial activity, the powder of guva leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity and Staphylococcus aureus showed 99.6% in dyed fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher deodorization and UV protection rate than control fabric.