The Shiveet Khairkhan is located on Tsengel Som in the middle of Bayan-ulgi Aimag in the Altai region. Various remains have been identified, and it has been found to be an important area of the Eurasian steppe. In this study, the characteristics of textile fibers and dyes excavated from the tombs of the 1st~3rd century Xianbei period in the sites of Shiveet Khairkhan, Mongolia were investigated. As a result of analysis using optical microscopic observation and attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) for fiber identification, green and yellow fabrics were identified as silk fabrics. To investigate the properties of the dye, the surface reflectance of the dyed fabric was measured using an fiber optic reflectance spectrophotometer for non-destructive analysis. The green fabric appeared similar to the reflection spectrum of indigo dye. In addition, as a result of component analysis using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, isatin and indigotine were detected. Isatin and indigotine are characteristic components of indigo dye, and it was found that the green fabric of the tombs of the Xianbei period was dyed using indigo dye. It was difficult to identify the type of dye in the yellow fabric as a result of reflectance spectrum and gas chromatography analysis. Indigo plants are a dye used for blue dyeing from thousands of years ago, and many species are distributed around the world. It was confirmed that the fabric was relatively well preserved and indigo dye was used for the green Jikryeongui (garment with a straight collar) in the ancient tomb of the Xianbei period about 1,800 years ago, even though it was buried for a long time. Scientific investigation of textile cultural heritage is an essential process for conservation treatment, restoration, exhibition, and the creation of a conservation environment. It is expected that related research will be activated in the future and will be helpful in interpreting the living culture at the time, preserving textiles, and a conservation environment.
In the textile culture of the Joseon Dynasty, the historic record of Banpo is fragmentary and contains many missing details. The main reason is a lack of associated literature, and it is also significant that the actual substance used is not clear at present. Banpo is a kind of cotton, but this has not been confirmed in the traditional textiles that are currently handed down. The word Ban [斑] in Banpo means "stain", and the letter Po [布] means "fabric". At the border of white discourse, Banpo did not receive attention as a research topic. This study is an attempt to restore some of the textile culture of the Joseon Dynasty through Banpo. Banpo is not just limited to the Joseon Dynasty; it is an important material for examining the development of textile culture and exchange in East Asia. This study was broadly divided into three parts. First, the record and meaning of Banpo during the Joseon Dynasty were examined. Records of Banpo can be seen from the early Joseon period during King Sejo and Seongjong, and the production and actual use of Banpo have been confirmed. Banpo was maintained until the beginning of the 20th century, but is no longer observed. Banpo is a woven fabric made of cotton yarn dyed in many colors and has appeared in Southeast Asia since ancient times. In East Asia, there are other fabrics similar to Banpo, such as Ho [縞], Sum [纖], and Chim [綅]. In particular, the correlation between Banpo and Ho is an important link in understanding Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty. Second, the meaning of Banpo was examined from various angles through comprehensive analysis of Chinese and Japanese literature records and cases. The appearance and development of Banpo moved in sync with the period when cotton was introduced into East Asia. In East Asia, cotton was introduced and produced in earnest from the end of the Song Dynasty to the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, and the meaning of Banpo was diversified. In China, the name of Banpo was changed to Hwapo [花布], Gizapo [碁子布], Gizahwapo [棋子花布], etc. Japan was late to introduce cotton and developed it in acceptance of the changed meaning. In Japan, use of the name Banpo is not on record, but a Ryujo [柳條] fabric of the same type as banpo has been identified. This Ryujo is the same concept as Ho and Hwapo, and later merged into Ho. Names such as Ho, Hwapo, Banpo, etc. were used differently in each country, but the form was shared across East Asia. Third, based on the meaning of Banpo shared in East Asia, the format of Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty was classified. The format of Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty can be divided into grid and striped versions. The name Banpo disappeared over time, but the form remained and was passed down until recently. I hope that this study will help restore Banpo in the future.
Kim, Young-Hee;Hong, Jin-Young;Jo, Chang-Wook;Kim, Soo Ji;Lee, Jeung-Min;Seo, Min Seok;Choi, Kyoung Hwa
보존과학연구
/
s.34
/
pp.20-29
/
2013
Paper, textile and wood materials are mainly consisted of cellulose. Cellulose is high molecule and make up the strong crystalline structure by hydrogen bonds. In particular, the polymerization degree of cellulose are closely related to the strength of fiber, and the permanence. the useful life of fiber, also depends on the degradation of this substance. The viscosity of cellulose is considered to be an important indicator of fiber damage in high molecule polymers. The viscosity measurements with CED solution is used to measure the molecular weight and the degree of polymerization of cellulose. Cellulose viscosity of wood fibers is measured with TAPPI standard method T230. However, TAPPI standard method T230 is difficult to completely dissolving the cellulose of high molecular weight and large degree of polymerization, such as Korea traditional papers and fabrics made with mulberry, ramie, cotton fibers. In this study, The high viscosity of hanji and fabric was measured with TAPPI standard method T254. T254 method is that the cellulose specimen with the proper amount of weaker (0.167M CED) solution, and completely dissolved with the stronger (1.0M CED) solution. It was found that cellulose with high degree of polymerization was dissolved more easily in general CED method.
The purpose of this study was intended to analyze artistic formativeness represented in the modern fashion design materials. Nowadays the modern fashion design materials is characterized by variety. The fashion materials the most important of fashion is called a softwear in textile industry and emerged as a new field. Fashion design also escaped from the tra-ditional restraint and extended to pursue lib-eral clothes and the designer's creative inten-tion has resulted in conceptual and conven-tional alteration as a new mode of plastic ex-preseeion. As a results of analysis of the formative fea-ture of Art style represented in the modern fashion design materials. First Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and rtistic environment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Accordingly the wide applicaytion of the various object due to the thought of Sur-realism through the modern fashion materials brought the diversification and individua-lization of the modern fashion design. Second Pop Art that is made modern mech-anic culture and commercialism brought the great transformation in the history of Art out of the existing style and the sense of ex-pression. And the plastic characteristics of Pop Art that has a gravity as modern fashion materials on a them of the elements of popular consumer's society. That is the common and cheap objects were introduced into fashion materials itself or pat-tern. Third Minimalism is a trend in art att-empting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means. The features of external form are simplicity clarity unrelated composition and symmetrical structure. Mini-malism was a quest for basic elements repre-senting the fundamental esthetic values of art. The minimal expression in modern fashion materials mean fabrics with simple surface and is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns. Fourth Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization and is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth religion customs and art. So Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction. These erotic char-acteristics were holded the meanings of sexu-ality through the modern fashion materials. Especially it was expressed the sexual part of body was nakedly showed through trans-parent materials or semitransparent like metalic and opaque materials. Recently the various kinds of new materials such as paper vinyle plastic metal as well as human body were applied to new fashion de-sign. First of all the new materials will give modern fashion designers stimuli and inspi-ration. It can also express values of moderners to despise materialism and uniformed modern society and to recover humanity and self-actualization.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.32
no.6
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pp.928-934
/
2008
The objective of this study is to investigate the dyeing properties of safflower yellow dye on silk for the standardization of dyeing process and color reproducibility. Yellow colorants were water-extracted from safflower petals, concentrated, and freeze-dried to obtain colorants powder. The effects of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, and pH of dye bath were studied in terms of dye uptake and shade. Fastness to dry cleaning and light was evaluated. Dye uptake increased with raising temperature and brighter and more vivid yellow shade was obtained when dyed at $30^{\circ}C$. As colorants concentration increased, dye uptake increased progressively and the shade got darker and deeper. Maximum color strength was obtained at pH 3.5. It was speculated that the adsorption of colorants seemed to occur mainly by hydrogen bonding and physical force at pH 5.5 and by ionic bonding as well as hydrogen bonding below isoelectric point(pH 3.8-4.0). The results of reproducibility test showed acceptable color difference in the range of $1.11{\sim}2.01$. Washing fastness was fairly good as 4/5 rating, while light fastness was 2/3 rating.
Kim Ju-Ri;Kim Young-Un;Joung Suck-Tae;Jung Sung-Tae
The KIPS Transactions:PartA
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v.13A
no.4
s.101
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pp.371-380
/
2006
This paper utilizing model picture of finished clothes in fashion design field various material (textile fabrics) doing Draping directly can invent new design, and do not produce direction sample or poetic theme width and confirm clothes work to simulation. Also, construct database about model and material image and embodied system that can confirm Mapping result by real time. And propose clothes simulation system to dress to 3D human body model of imagination because using several cloth pieces first by process to do so that can do simulation dressing abstracted poetic theme width to 3D model here. Proposed system creates 3D model who put clothes by physical simulation that do fetters to mass-spring model after read 3D human body model file and 2D foundation pattern file. System of this treatise examines collision between triangle that compose human body model for realistic simulation and triangle that compose clothes and achieved reaction processing. Because number of triangle to compose human body is very much, this collision examination and reaction processing need much times. To solve this problem, treatise that see could create realistic picture by method to diminish collision public prosecutor and reaction processing number, and could dress clothes to imagination human body model within water plant taking advantage of Octree space sharing techniques.
The copolymers were prepared by the emulsion copolymerization of fluoroalky lacrylate-stearylacrylate-m-isopropenyl-${\alpha},\;{\alpha}'$-dimethylbenzyl isocyanate (TMI) in order to obtain water repellent polymers. The respective copolymerization rates of the three monomers considerably depended upon the use of the nonionic emulsifier and the nonionic-cationic mixed emusifier, and the optimum conditions were obtained. The particle sizes of the copolymers were in the range of 105 to 222nm. The particle sizes of the copolymers prepared by the use of the mixed emulsifiers were smaller than those of the copolymers prepared by the use of the nonionic emulsifier. The reactions of both TMI-N-methyl acetamide and TMI-cellobiose did not take place. However, the reaction of TMI-n-butylamine occurred. The water contact angles before and after washing three times for nylon and poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) fabrics coated with the copolymer prepared by the use of mixed emulsifier were about $139^{\circ}\;and\;133^{\circ}$ Therefore, the copolymer showed good durable repellency for nylon and PET.
In this work, we study smart gloves that can prevent carpal tunnel syndrome when using a mouse. Because the left and right wrist movements are fine, a tensile fabric sensor with a large gauge factor and low hysteresis was required before the study. A universal testing machine was used to calculate each gauge rate on four different fabrics, and the fabric with the least hysteresis was selected. In addition, three attachment methods were analyzed using Arduino to select a method with a large sensor value change. For prototypes made by attaching to the selected fabric, data patterns were analyzed using Arduino. The first method identifies only one sensor (A sensor), and the second identifies two sensors (A and B sensors). When the wrist is bent to the right, tensile fabric sensors are attached to both the left (A sensor) and right (B sensor) sides of the wrist, the A sensor is strained, increasing the △sensor value, and the B sensor is relaxed, decreasing the △sensor value. However, when the wrist was bent to the left, the pattern was analyzed in the opposite direction. Through this study, we examined smart gloves to prevent carpal tunnel syndrome with an algorithm that turns on the LED when the wrist is bent, and based on the results of this study, we will directly use mice on 10 people to identify problems and solve problems when used.
Kim, Seong-Jo;Baek, Seung-Hwa;Moon, Kwang-Hyun;Jang, Kwang-Ho;Kim, Su-Jin
Korean Journal of Environmental Agriculture
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v.17
no.1
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pp.48-53
/
1998
The purpose of this study was to compare heavy metal concentrations in uncontaminated soil with those in soil influenced by industrial activities, and to investigate the relationship between change of heavy metal content and the kind of industry at the Iksan 1st Industrial Complex that has started since 1975. Soils sampled in 0-3㎝ and 3-6㎝ soil depth, respectively were analized for content of Cd, Cu, Ni, Pb and Zn. Change of heavy metal content in soil of the industrial complex were more accumulated 16 to 25% of Cd and Cu, 93% of Pb and Zn, respectively in samples compared with natural soil uncontaminated. But there was no different in Ni content between two soil. Distribution of Cd in soil layer of 0 to 3cm was the highest concentration of 5 ppm more at the textile industries, and then higher at the chemicals and the food processing industries. In 3 to 6㎝ soil layer Cd content was the highest concentration of 5 ppm more at the metal processing industries, and then higher at the textile industries. Cd accumulation in soil was different according to a kind of industry and soil depth. Cu content was the highest value of 400 ppm more in soil layer of 0 to 3cm at the manufacturing electric wires industry area and showed the accumulation phenomenon in soil layer 3 to 6cm at the ohmmeter, machines and electric wires industry area. Ni content was 35 ppm more in soil of the metal plating and processing industries regardless of soil sampling layer. Then it was 25 ppm more in soil of the building stones and semiconductor industries. Pb content was from 400 to 1000 ppm in soil of the chemicals and textiles industries regardless of soil sampling layer. Zn content was 1200 ppm more in soil of the chemicals and silk fabrics industries regardless of soil depth, and then lower in order to soil of leather processing${\le}$metal plating industries. In conclusion, changes of heavy metal kinds and content in soil of this industrial complex area were caused by the type or kinds of industrial activities. Changes of Pb and Zn content in soil were dominated at this area.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.31
no.12
/
pp.1784-1792
/
2007
This study set out to identify the problems with hat labels and to search for improvement measures by examining and analyzing consumers' practice of managing their hats. It also intended to provide accurate and enough information about how to keep and wash hats and thus help consumers use their hats for a long period. In an attempt to investigate how consumers wash and manage their hats, a survey was carried out to 395 individuals in their twenties and over who owned hats living in urban areas including Seoul, and were quota sampled according to age and gender. The survey period is March to April 2007. The collected data were statistically treated with the SPSS 12.0 program in terms of frequency, percentage, mean, standard error, cross tabulation, t-test, and one-way ANOVA. The findings were as followed. First, the respondents were in the average level of perceiving and practicing the washing methods of their hats. The female respondents who had more experiences with laundering than the males knew and practiced the washing methods for hats better than males. Second, compared to other clothing items, hat wearers were more likely to pay careful attention to their hats by putting their hats in a laundry net and applying a laundry detergent for wool fabrics when using a washing machine or washing their hats with their own hands. And third, most of the hat wearers were aware of the importance of hat labels and showed a lower level of trust in them than other clothing items. The suppliers need to offer accurate and practical labels in order to regain the consumers' trust. Many consumers had some difficulties figuring out the size system of hats. In particular, the male consumers had a low level of perception of labels, which implies that there should be specific efforts to educate them about general labels.
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