• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.47-47
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• 2011

국내의 기능성 난연성 섬유 제조기술은 원사 자체에 난연제가 포함된 상태인 난연 PET 원사나, 일반 PET 원단에 후방염 처리한 원단이 사용되기에 난연 방염성능이 만족스럽지 못하고 친환경적이지 못한 실정이다. 오늘날 세계 난연섬유 시장 규모는 10조원에 이르고 있으며 국내에서도 화재에 대한 경각심이 높아지는 추세이므로 기능성을 갖춘 고부가가치 난연소재의 개발이 시급하다. 폴리페닐렌술피드(PPS)는 내열성 및 내화학약품성이 뛰어난 열가소성 고분자로 용융방사가 가능하다. 난연성이 높은 양모섬유 또는 아크릴계 난연섬유, 아라미드 섬유 등은 비용 문제로 범용화에 한계가 있으므로 비교적 저렴한 PPS 섬유가 개발될 경우 범용화를 기대할 수 있다. 현재는 PPS 섬유가 특수한 용도에 주로 사용되고 있으나 우수한 난연 특성을 이용하여 일반 용도로의 사용 및 수요가 급격히 늘어날 것으로 예상되며 우선적으로 인테리어용 원단, 특히 커튼이나 소파용 원단으로 용도 전개가 가능할 것으로 판단하였다. 본 연구에서는 소파용 PPS 원단의 후가공 조건의 선정 및 불소계 발수방오가공을 위한 최적의 조건을 선정하고자 하였다. Padding(wet pick up율 $80{\pm}3%$)-Drying($105^{\circ}C$, 2.5min)-Curing은 시간은 1분으로 고정시킨 후, 온도를 150, 160, 170, 180, 190, $200^{\circ}C$에서 처리하여 Yellowness값을 측정한 결과, 온도가 높아질수록 Yellowness값이 커지는 것으로 미루어 보아 PPS원단은 높은 열에 영향을 받아 황변 현상이 일어나는 것으로 사료된다. 특히 $180^{\circ}C$를 기점으로 값에 큰 변화를 보였으므로 최적의 열처리 온도는 $170^{\circ}C$로 선정하여 이후의 실험을 진행하였다. 또한 큐어링 시간이 황변에 미치는 영향을 분석한 결과 온도에 의한 영향에 비해 적은 편으로 사료되었으나, 1.5min을 기점으로 Yellowess값이 높아졌으므로 최적의 열처리 시간을 1분으로 선정하였다. 최종 가공조건인 $170^{\circ}C$, 1분에서 처리한 시험포는 처리전 원단과 비교하였을 때, ${\Delta}$Yellowness가 2.84 정도로 나타났다. 그 후, PPS 원단에 불소가공제 (TG-991N, 동인텍스켐)의 적정 농도를 선정하기 위해 1~7%까지 농도를 높이며 처리한 결과, 불소가공제의 농도가 높아짐에 따라 황변현상이 나타남을 알 수 있었다. 농도가 높아짐에 따라 Yellowness값은 증가하다가 4% 이후 완만해지는 것을 알 수 있었으므로 IPA/Water Drop test와 발수도시험 (KS K 0590;2008)을 통해 적정 농도를 선정하였다. PPS 원단은 불소가공제의 농도가 높아짐에 따라 발수도가 우수해졌으며, 가공제 농도 3% 처리만으로도 우수한 발수도를 나타내었으나 100% 발수를 위해서는 가공제 농도가 5% 이상 처리되어야 하는 것을 확인할 수 있었다.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.7
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• pp.864-873
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• 2018

There has been increasing attention and research in various nanoparticle applications. Nanoparticles have been used for a variety of purposes in different departments including but not limited to cosmetics, food, machinery, and chemical. A highly sought-after field to use nanoparticles, especially natural or artificial silver nanoparticles (SNPs), is the utilization of their significant antimicrobial properties in daily items such as fabrics, indoor air filters, and, water filtration units where abundant bacterial and fungal growth are inevitable. These applications of SNPs, however, have enabled continuous human exposure and hence paved the way for potential SNP toxicity depending on exposure method and particle size. This potential toxicity has led to researches on safer antimicrobial solutions to be utilized in textile and filtration. In this context, products of natural origin have gained expanding interest due to their eco-friendly, cost-effective, and biologically safe properties along their promising antibacterial and antifungal activities. Natural product-applied fabrics and filters have been shown to be comparable to those that are SNP-treated in terms of ease production, material durability, and antimicrobial efficiency. This article summarizes and assesses the current state of in vitro and in vitro toxicity of SNPs and discusses the potential of natural products as an alternative.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.93-101
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• 2022

In this study, the dyeing properties of supercritical fluid dyed cotton fabrics were investigated which use two types of dyes, such as C.I. Disperse orange and C.I. Disperse red 167. Dyeing temperature, pressure and leveling time were equally applied at 130 ℃, 250 bar, and 60 minutes with reference to the related literature, and experiments were performed at concentrations of 0.04, 0.1, 0.4 and 0.8 % o.w.f with different concentrations. Dyeability was confirmed through measurement of washing fastness and color coordinate, and a calibration curve of each dye was drawn up and the absorbance of the residual dye was measured to confirm the amount of residual dye and the dye exhaustion rate at the corresponding concentration. As a result of color difference measurement, as the concentration increased, the L^* value decreased and the K/S value increased. However, as the concentration increased, the increase in K/S value decreased compared to the input amount, and this tendency was more obvious in C.I. Disperse red 167 than in C.I. Disperse orange 155. The dye exhaustion rate which was calculated by using the amount of residual dye in the pot was also C.I. Disperse orange 155 was 96.16 % and C.I. Disperse red 167 was 94.57 %. However, as the dyeing concentration increased, the dye exhaustion rate decreased, that C.I. Disperse orange was 95.33 % and C.I. Disperse red 167 was 90.63 %. As a result of the washing fastness test for both dyes, dyed samples of which concentrations were 0.4 and 0.8 % o.w.f decreased by 0.5 ~ 1.0 grade. This is predicted because the dye did not completely adhere to the amorphous region of the cotton fiber and the dye simply adsorbed. The fastness to rubbing also maintained at least grade 3-4 up to the 0.1 % o.w.f concentration, but at the concentration of 0.4 % o.w.f or higher, it fell to grade 1 or lower, showing a very poor friction fastness.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.107-107
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• 2012

3종 복합소재인 양모와 나일론, 레이온의 염색공정은 먼저 알칼리 욕에서 반응성염료로 레이온을 염색한 후, 산성욕에서 산성염료로 양모와 나일론을 염색하는 것이 일반적이다. 그런데 양모, 나일론, 레이온은 알칼리에 민감하므로 면 염색 시 적용되는 강알칼리인 수산화나트륨을 사용하면 섬유의 취화로 인하여 강도와 촉감저하 등의 문제가 발생하게 된다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 알칼리 중 탄산나트륨과 중탄산나트륨을 사용하여 염료를 투입하지 않고 염색공정을 거친 후 백도와 인장강도를 측정하여 황변 및 강도 변화 여부를 알아보았다. 레이온 70%, 양모 19%, 나일론 11%의 혼용율을 가지는 전처리 된 편물(130$g/m^2$, 32 inch, 18 gauge)에 탄산나트륨(시약 1급) 20g/l과 중탄산나트륨(시약 1급) 20g/l 각각을 투입하고 반응성염색공정($60^{\circ}C$, 60 min)으로 처리한 경우와 반응성 염색 후 산성염색공정($98^{\circ}C$, 60 min)으로 처리한 경우로 나누어 측색을 통해 백도와 L, a, b값을 측정하고 KS K 0521에 따라 인장강도 시험을 실시하였다. 그 결과, 탄산나트륨 투입시 백도 값이 중탄산나트륨에 비해 10% 정도 낮아지고 L, a, b값도 상대적으로 yellow 방향으로 이동해 있는 것으로 나타났다. 이것은 황변이 일어남을 의미하며 육안으로 확인하였다. 또한 인장강도 측정결과를 통해 소다회 처리 시 중조에 비해 30% 정도의 강도 저하가 일어남을 확인할 수 있었다. 그러나 반응성염색 후 산성염색을 거치게 되면 황변과 강도 저하 현상이 회복되는 경향을 나타내었다. 즉, 천연/나일론 편물을 반응성염색 시 알칼리로 탄산나트륨을 사용하면 염색공정 상에서 중탄산나트륨에 비해 황변이 일어나 염료 고유의 색상 발현에 영향을 줄 수 있고 강도 또한 30% 정도 저하되지만, 후에 산성염색 공정을 거치면 산 조건과 욕중 효과를 통해 일부 개선됨을 확인하였다. 이와 별도로 이번에는 시판되는 반응성염료 5종과 산성염료 3종을 조합하여 탄산나트륨과 중탄산나트륨 투입에 따른 염색실험을 실시하고 측색(DataColor SF600 광원D65, Strength)을 통해 염착량을 비교하였다. 그 결과, 중탄산나트륨으로 염색하면 탄산나트륨에 비해 모두 염착량이 저하되었으며, 염료의 구조적 차이와 컬러별로도 그 차이는 다양하였다. 그 중 저온에너지형 반응성염료는 탄산나트륨 투입에 비해 47~60% 정도로 가장 양호하였으며, 일부 반응성염료는 20%까지 떨어지는 값을 나타내었다. 이것은 탄산나트륨보다 중탄산나트륨의 알칼리 정도가 낮으므로 반응성염료의 염착이 적은 것으로 생각되며, 저에너지형 반응성염료의 경우에는 낮은 온도나 알칼리 조건에서도 상대적으로 높은 고착률을 나타내므로 적절한 반응성염료의 선택을 통해 그 차이를 극복할 수 있을 것으로 사료된다. 이상의 결과를 통해 탄산나트륨과 중탄산트륨의 알칼리 정도가 강도와 염착량에 미치는 영향의 차이를 고려하여 최적의 현장 처방을 선정해야 함을 알 수 있었다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.90-90
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• 2012

극세섬유는, 1970년대 말부터 일본의 합섬업체들이 천연소재인 Silk를 모방하기 위해 개발을 시작하였으며, 개발된 섬유의 굵기가 0.5d(1denier=1g/9,000m)이하인 것을 말한다. 이후 극세사에 대한 끊임없는 노력으로, 1980년대에는 천연스웨이드 풍의 인조피혁의 제조가 가능한 0.1d이하급 초극세사가 N/P(Nylon/Polyester) 복합방사된 형태로 개발되었으며, 일본, 및 한국 등에서 이들 소재로 제조된 직편물 제품이 첨단 고부가소재로서 호황을 누려왔다. 이러한 초극세사는 다양한 형태로 발전되어왔는데, 해도형(Islands-in-a-Sea Type), N/P(Nylon/PET), P/N(PET/Nylon) 등이 대표적인 형태이며, 가공공정 중에서 분할이 되면서 그 특성을 발현한다고 하여 분할사, 형태에 따라서 N/P 분할사라 하기도 한다. 최근들어 이러한 N/P 분할사는 기존의 의류용 용도뿐만 아니라, Wiping Cloth, 극세사 타울, 항진드기용 침장 등 다양한 비의류용 소재로도 확대 전개되고 있으며, 이렇게 다양화 되어가고 있는 용도에 따른 공정별 최적 가공 방법에 대한 연구가 진행 중이다. 사가공 공정에 있어서는 텍스쳐링 방법이 적용되기도 하는데, 가장 보편화된 텍스쳐링 방법으로는 DTY(Draw Texturing Yarn), ATY(Air Texturing Yarn) 등의 형태가 있으며, 이러한 텍스쳐링 방법은 물성에 민감한 N/P 분할사의 강도, 신도, 분할도에 영향을 미치게 된다. 본 연구에서는 기존의 텍스쳐링 방법이 아닌 Fancy사 형태로 사가공을 하였으며, 직물로 제직하고, 분할 가공하여 직물로써의 물성까지 분석하였다. Fancy사는 색이나 형의 변화로 디자인효과를 준 실을 말하는데, 심사, 부사, 압사로 이뤄지며 의장사, 장식사 등으로 불려지기도 한다. 주요 공정을 보면, 크릴형성용 부사를 500-600T/M으로 가연한 연사를 얻는 제1공정과, 이 가연된 부사와 심사를 합사하는 제2공정 및 합사된 크릴의 뒤틀림을 방지하기 위하여 압사로 크릴을 고정하여 주는 제3공정으로 이루어진다. 사용된 N/P 분할사는 NP30/36dty, NP50/36dty를 사용하였으며, 부사의 오버피드 및 피드되는 사에 따라 각각 8종, 7종의 Fancy사를 제조하여 섬도(Denier), 강도(Tenacity), 신도(Elongation)를 측정하였다. 또한, 이들 사들로 제직 및 분할가공을 하여 인장강도, 인장신도, 인열강도, 마모강도, 공기투과도 등의 물성과 중량, 두께를 측정하였으며, 온도, NaOH 농도, 시간 등의 분할 가공조건에 따른 직물의 인열강도 변화도 측정하였다. 이렇게 공정별 조건에 따른 물성의 변화분석을 통해 추후 N/P의 제품화 전개에 도움이 되고자 하였다.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.527-533
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• 2017

As the clothing industry has advanced, dyeing technologies using various dyes have been developed. In recent years, interest in natural pigments has been increasing because of the negative impact of synthetic pigment on human health; therefore, development and application of microbial pigments is demanded. In this study, the dyeing effects on multifiber fabrics and biological activity were assessed using violet natural pigment from the marine bacterium, Microbulbifer sp. PPB12. The violet pigment produced by cultivation of Microbulbifer sp. PPB12 using Marine broth 2216 for 3 days was extracted using ethanol. Once dissolved in 20% ethanol, the violet pigment could be used to dye bleached cotton, diacetate, and especially polyamide. The optimal temperature, time, pH, and bath ratio under the dyeing conditions were $80^{\circ}C-90^{\circ}C$, more than 1 hour, pH 4-6, and 1:25, respectively. The mordant treatment was more suitable for color expression when $Na_2SO_4$ was used after 10 minutes of dyeing, but no significant difference was observed from untreated samples. The violet pigment also showed antibacterial activity against B. subtilis. The results of the present study indicate that the marine bacterial pigment could be an alternative for textile dyeing as a natural dye with antibacterial activity.

• Archives of design research
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.163-174
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• 2001

William Morris(1834-1896) was the most versatile and talented of all British nineteenth century polymaths. Since his death over one hundred years ago his achievements as an artist, designer, manufacturer, shop-keeper, poet, author, publisher, printer, collector, teacher, conservationist, political activist and environmentalist have influenced the lives and work of people throughout the world. Moris is now best known for his attractive and colorful patterns. The decorating firm of Morris, Marshall, Fault & Company(Morris & Company after 1875) was established in 1861. Over the years it produced works, ranging from stained·glass windows and furniture to tapestries, carpets and printed and woven fabrics, that had great influence on the course of British design. His earliest experiments with the craft were amateurishly worked embroideries made for his own use. Before long, Morris began to produce textiles on a more commercial basis. In order to control production properly, Morris set about learning the various textiles techniques, first dyeing and blockprinting, hand-loom jacquard and eventually, carpet and tapestry weaving. This extraordinary involvement with the practical side of manufacture separated Morris from all other designers of his time and contributed in no small way to his success. Morris's designs for textiles, embroidery, dyeing, woven, carpet and tapestry were commercially produced, that are most universally admired and frequently copied today. These have a timeless quality arising from the designers respect for and knowledge of the technique. Of equal importance was his love of nature, evidence of which can be seen in even the smallest details of each of his patterns.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.65-74
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• 2021

With recent innovations in the ICT industry, the demand for wearable sensing devices to recognize and respond to biological signals has increased. In this study, a three-dimensional (3D) spacer fabric was embedded in a single-wall carbon nanotube (SWCNT) dispersive solution through a simple penetration process to develop a monolayer piezoresistive pressure sensor. To induce electrical conductivity in the 3D spacer fabric, samples were immersed in the SWCNT dispersive solution and dried. To determine the electrical properties of the impregnated specimen, a universal testing machine and multimeter were used to measure the resistance of the pressure change. Moreover, to examine the changes in the electrical properties of the sensor, its performance was evaluated by varying the concentration, number of penetrations, and thickness of the specimen. Samples that penetrated twice in the SWCNT distributed solution of 0.1 wt% showed the best performance as sensors. The 7-mm thick sensors showed the highest GF, and the 13-mm thick sensors showed the widest operating range. This study confirms the effectiveness of the simple process of fabricating smart textile sensors comprising 3D spacer fabrics and the excellent performance of the sensors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.5 s.142
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• pp.692-702
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to explore global consumer behavior with fashion products, Korean fashion products, and Korean traditional fashion products (i.e., Han-Bok). Clothing selection criteria for fashion products and Korean fashion products were included as major constructs far the comparison among global consumers based on their nationality. Other consumer behavior variables were shopping place, buying frequency, purchase experience/plan, preferred brand, purchase items, information source, purchasing usage, and the product evaluation of Hanbok. A convenience sample of 236 global consumers was selected for this study. A questionnaire was pilot tested, and the revised questionnaire was used for the interview survey. Descriptive statistics and ANOVA were used for data analysis. Various nationality were existed such as Europe, North America, Japan, China, South East Asia. The results indicated that the most important criteria for fashion buying were design, fit, and size in order. Fit, size, and color item from buying criteria were significantly different among global consumers by nationality. Country of origin was found as less important factor among global consumers. Department store was most favorable shopping place, and once a month is the most mentioned category in buying frequency. Preferred brands were Levi's, Polo, Gucci, and Prada, etc. Secondly, regarding the evaluation of Korean fashion products, textile quality was highly evaluated. Significant difference except design/style category were existed among global consumers by nationality. Thirdly, regarding the evaluation of Hanbok, the product evaluation of Hanbok highly represented as special event clothing, unique image, beautiful details and oriental beauty in order. Significant difference in good quality of textiles, oriental beauty, coordination with good colors and fabrics, beautiful details and unique style and design were existed among global consumers by nationality. Managerial implications were discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.50 no.6
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• pp.55-64
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• 2012

This study aims to reinterpret formative elements of Baeja, by applying them to the design of modern clothing. The main objective of the studying Baeja is to propose unique layered look items that can be readily put together for various weather conditions and occasions, be easily wearable and bring out unique individualities. After carefully studying Baeja from Joseon dynasty, flexible and practical layered-look items are designed. The following are the conclusions drawn from the work. First, it is possible to apply Baeja elements, such as the silhouette, traditional materials, and colors, to modern clothes, for a layered-look. Second, Baeja characteristics have a profound potential for a modern layered-look design, in that it is sleeveless, its length is long at the front and short at the back, and it comes with slits on both sides and a wide belt. The items inspired by such characteristic can easily be worn over and draped around daily clothes, according to weather conditions and occasions. Third, many decorative elements of Baeja, including detailed ornamental method, knots, patchworks, and string decorations create a unique and traditional image in modern clothes. Ribbonswhich can adjust the width of clothes are both practical and decorative. A reversible jacket is created by utilizing the same traditional sewing method for both inner and outer fabrics. One item can be worn in different styles, which increases practicality. Fourth, traditional and modern materials go well together. Such methods can create an item with both modern sensibility and traditional chic.