• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.129-136
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• 1993

Authors have studied the adsorption of anionic surfactant from detergent solutions on cotton fabric during washing process and have measured the concentration of the residual surfactant in rinsing solution. The relations with temperature and pre-soaking time to rinsing process have been studied. The adsorption of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate by various textile fibers has also been investigated. The results of this study are; 1. Three times rinsing is sufficient as, without pre-soaking, the concentration of the surfactant on fabric is stable from that time on. 2. The rinsing efficiency increases with temperature; at $25^{\circ}C$, $40^{\circ}C$, and $55^{\circ}C$, the concentrations of surfactant on the fabric after-rinsing are 68, 59, 51 mg/100 g of fiber respectively. 3. The longer the pre-soaking time, the lower the rinsing efficiency is; the 4hrs presoaked fabric shows increased surfactant concentration than the one without-soaking. And the increment is 35.8%. 4. The adsorption of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate on fabrics differs greatly with the chemical nature of the fiber; wool, silk and nylon which are thought to be ionic-adsorbants shows greater adsorption. 5. The adsorption of surfactant is more affected by the ionic character than the physical one, and the one with higher crystallinity such as cotton and polyester shows lower value than rayon or acetate.

• 감성과학
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.345-354
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• 2005

본 연구는 직물구조인자인 위사밀도와 직물의 조직을 변화시켜 시직한 면직물을 이용하여 역학특성 및 태의 변화를 KES-FB System을 이용하여 측정하였다. 그 결과 위사밀도가 증가할수록 굽힘특성 및 전단특성이 증가하는 것으로 나타났고, 위사밀도의 변화에 따른 역학특성치 중 굽힘 및 전단특성의 값은 평직이 높게 나타났으며, 인장특성, 압축특성 그리고 표면특성의 값은 조직 및 밀도에 크게 영향을 받지 않는 것으로 나타났다. 한편, 위사밀도 변화에 따른 의복착용성능 중 WC/T, MMD/SMD를 제외한 B/W 및 2HG/G, 2HB/B, 2HB/W, W/T, 그리고 WC/W는 위사밀도에 영향을 받는 것으로 나타났다. 위사방향의 직축은 굽힘특성, 전단특성, 압축회복도(RC), 표면거칠기(SMD), 태와 의복착용성능에 높은 상관을 보이는 것으로 나타났다. 그리고 Tightness는 굽힘특성, 전단특성, 압축특성 그리고 표면 마찰계수와 높은 상관을 보였고, 기본태 및 T.H.V., 의복착용성능에도 높은 상관이 있는 것으로 나타났다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.461-474
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to present a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. Research Method of jeans pattern was presented after applying the optimized shrinkage rate. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending $90^{\circ}$, chair sitting, climbing stairs, and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was $2.5{\sim}5.2cm$, hips circumference was $-1.8{\sim}2.8cm$, thigh circumference was $-1.3{\sim}2.0cm$ and knee circumference was $-1.0{\sim}1.7cm$. Also, hem circumference was $-1.0{\sim}1.8cm$ and pants length was $2.9{\sim}6.2cm$. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.299-303
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• 2003

Some of historical textiles were analyzed to identify the imprinted textures on the metal remains of Haengyeup(a horse strap pendant) and Doja (a knife), which were excavated in the ruins of Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju city in the fifth century and textiles imprinted on the human bones that were excavated in the Pungnae 4th Area, Namyangju county in the sixteenth century. The results analyzed arc as follows ; It was confirmed that the imprinted textures of Haengyeup and Doja are white ramie since the structural characteristics of cellulosic bast fibers, partially projected long oval cross sections with large lumens and the imprinted textures of human bones are silk fabrics since the triangular cross sections of fibroin is showed. All of the textiles were designed in plain weaves. In the case of weaving yarns, the warp threads were thicker than the weft threads, that is, the imprinted textures of Haengyeup were measured by 1.35 mm for warp and 1.21 mm for weft, and the Doja by 1.16mm for warp and 1.11 mm for weft. In connection with the direction of the yarn twist, the Z-twist were observed in the imprinted textures of human bones, whereas it presented the S-twist in the case of Haengyeup and Doja. The warp yarns were mostly harder twisted than the weft yarns on the amounts of twist, that is, it was observed that the case of Haengyeup were amounted to 0.33 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.25 twists per centimeter for weft yarns. Also it was showed 0.32 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.26 twists per centimeter in the case of the textures of human bones. On the fabric counts, it was showed that the finer the yarns the higher the densities since it were $4.3{\times}5.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters and $7.6{\times}7.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters each in the case of Haengyeup and Doja, whereas it was $18.2{\times}33.7$ threads per sqaure centimeters in the case of the textures of human bones.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.682-693
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• 2013

Camouflage is evaluated by scientific principle in the fields of biology, military science, and art. It has a strong influence on contemporary fashion and means exposure with concealment. This study analyzed the visual characteristics of camouflage patterns in fashion design through documentaries and fashion photos. The fashion design results areas follow. The simple blending of a disruptive motif indicated an inaccurate repetition of a disruptive motif, the discontinuous or continuous connection of disruptive motif, the irregular repetition of a disruptive animal silhouette, the collage of a different disruptive motif, the craft of a disruptive motif and the intensive color match of a disruptive motif. It represented the maximization of complication, fantastic and fanciness. The overlap of a disruptive motif showed the overlap of disruptive print patterns with transparency and an overlap of different fabrics with a disruptive pattern. It represented spatial relationships of three dimensions as well as the maximization of visual illusion and the reinforcement of attractiveness. The blurring of a disruptive motif showed the pointage of disruptive motif, the pointage of image, value gradation, the whole blurring of a disruptive pattern cluster and stained appearance. It represented the obscurity of motif form, the uncertainty of object and double meaning. The trompe l'oeil of a partial background object showed the realistic and the painterly imitation of color and texture for partial objects through a close-up. It represented amazement and pleasure by illusion, scarcity and the decoration of surface and synecdochical remind. In conclusion, camouflage in fashion was weakened and modified from a classical military context by a unique expression of various motifs.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.17-29
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• 2020

This study aimed to produce fiber stretch sensors for smart soccer socks to prevent injuries during training. A sensor was manufactured with stretchable fabric and tested to ensure convenience during training. In order to manufacture the fiber stretch sensor, a CNT dispersion solution was applied to an e-band and elastic polyester fabric, and the performance of the sensors was evaluated by a tensile test. Performance evaluation showed that both of the tested fabrics are excellent for this purpose. Both sensors were attached to socks to create prototype wearable devices, and an experiment was conducted to determine whether a resistance change accompanying relaxation and contraction of the gastrocnemius muscle could be detected. In order to accurately evaluate performance as a sensor, the fabric was stretched 20 times at low speeds of 1 Hz and 0.5 Hz. A change in resistance due to tension was observed, with both the E-band and the stretchable poly fabric showing high sensitivity and high reproducibility. Both can be used as relaxation/contraction sensors. Smart soccer socks were made using the two materials, and an evaluation was conducted. Tensile tests were done on the smart soccer socks; the tests were done 20 times per sock, and the sensor showed a stable resistance change between 30 and 40 ohms depending on the tension of the sensor. As a result, we confirmed that smart soccer socks with stretch sensors made of E-bands can measure changes in the gastrocnemius muscle.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2011년도 제45차 학술발표회
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• pp.51-51
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• 2011

Acetate 섬유는 고감성 제품의 대표적 핵심소재로서 실크와 같은 우아한 광택과 청량감을 주어 고가의 의류제품으로 사용되지만 편직 및 염색가공 공정이 까다롭고 비교적 저분자량의 분산염료로 염색되어 내열성, 염색견뢰도 및 물에 대한 형태안정성이 떨어진다. 특히, Acetate 편직물은 이태리나 일본 등 섬유선진국에서도 제조가 까다로운 기술적 난이도가 매우 높은 제품군이다. 반면 Tri-Acetate는 Acetate의 장점을 가지면서 내열성, 내세탁성, 원상회복력(resilience)등이 우수하여 기존 Acetate 시장의 고급제품 용도로의 전개가 가능할 뿐만 아니라 PET 등의 물성 및 형태가 다른 복수의 소재성분을 직물 사이에 공존시킴으로써 새로운 태, 기능, 외관, 광택의 부여가 가능하며 이를 활용한 차별화된 고부가가치 시장의 창출이 기대된다. Acetate와 Tri-Acetate 모두 셀룰로오스의 친수기가 아세틸화된 구조를 가지는 소수성 섬유로 분자구조가 치밀하여 분산염료로 염색된다. 그러나 일반적으로 Acetate 섬유의 경우 Acetate용 일반분산염료를 사용하여 저온상압염색을 하는 반면, Tri-Acetate의 경우 고온고압 분산염료를 사용하여 고온고압염색을 한다. PET와 Tri-Acetate 복합소재의 경우, 두 소재의 염색거동이 비슷하여 고온고압 분산염료로 염색이 가능하지만 T/P 복합소재에 상응하는 염색을 위해서는 복합소재를 구성하는 각각의 섬유소재에 적합한 염료의 선정 및 염색법의 개발이 필요하다. 본 연구에서는 Tri-Acetate 및 T/P 복합소재에 대한 염색최적조건을 규명하고자 염색온도별, 2종의 분산염료의 농도별 염색성, 염색시료의 인열강도 및 견뢰도를 측정하여 적정조건을 도출하였다.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2011년도 제45차 학술발표회
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• pp.50-50
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• 2011

국내 섬유산업은 해외로부터의 저가 섬유제품이 대량으로 유입되는 속에서도 수출의 상당한 부분을 차지하며, 꾸준히 양에서 질로의 전환을 도모해 왔으며, 특히 최근에는 섬유 전반에 걸쳐 고부가 가치화를 지향하고 있다. 이러한 소비자의 요구에 부응하여 섬유소재에도 다양한 신개념과 이를 충족시킬 수 있는 기술이 요구되고 있으며, 그 가운데 하나의 영역을 구축해 나가고 있는 분야가 면 리플가공과 같은 표면 형태 가공이며, 최근 들어 폴리에스테르 입체(3D)가공제의 개발 및 가공 방법도 이런 흐름에 부응하여 업계에서 절실한 개발을 요구하고 있는 분야이다. 기존의 폴리에스테르 및 합성섬유의 입체 가공에 적용된 화학제품보다 성능은 우수하면서, 가공 공정이나 완성된 섬유제품에 전혀 잔존하지 않아 인체친화적(기존의 제품들은 인체에 유해한 재료이면서 가공 후 잔존함)이며, 환경적인 측면에서도 친환경을 유지하면서 새로운 폴리에스테르섬유, 좀 더 폭넓게는 열가소성인 모든 합성섬유의 입체가공이 가능한 약품의 개발 및 이를 이용한 가공방법의 개발은 매우 중요한 의의를 가지게 된다. 본 연구에서는 폴리에스테르의 3D입체 디보싱을 부여하는 합성바인더가 물에 의한 용해도를 확인하기 위하여 용액의 PH에 따른 용해성 시험을 진행하였으며, 합성한 발포제의 양에 따른 3D입체형성 정도를 이미지로 형상화 하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.423-438
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• 2021

This study compared and analyzed the direction of Louis Vuitton creative directors Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh. Accordingly, 485 photos(251 Kim Jones, 234 Virgil Abloh) were collected. For data analysis, statistical and content analyses were combined. First, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Kim Jones, complex colors, colorful barrels, tone-in-tone color schemes, H-line, plain fabrics, soft materials, heterogeneous material combinations, casual style. Second, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Virgil Abloh, achromatic color, colorful tone, tone-on-tone color scheme, I-line, plain fabric, soft material, similar material combination, casual style. There were significant differences in color, tone, color scheme, silhouette, pattern, material type, material combination, fashion image, detail, trimming, top and bottom that differed in the creative directors' design direction. Therefore, it appears that Kim Jones has been directing the luxurious and unique men's wear through H-line, coat and slim pants, colorful color combination, soft material, heterogeneous material combination, plain fabric, and chic active sensibility. Meanwhile, Virgil Abloh is directing men's wear in a loose and trendy street mood through the I-line, jacket and wide pants, achromatic color, soft material, plain fabric, similar material combinations, and soft and sophisticated modern sensibility.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.752-758
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• 2018

Due to environmental pollution and human hazards of some synthetic dyes, the global fashion companies are increasingly interested in eco-friendly products, especially natural dye. For the globalization of natural dyeing industry based on this concern, however, there are some deficiencies of standardization, specification, and conformity assessment on natural dyestuffs as well as natural dyeing process. These obstacles should be not only studied but also defined for a commercial transaction. Accordingly, a study for conformity assessment on commercialized natural dyestuffs (red) was conducted by HPLC analysis in this study. As the results of HPLC analysis, alizarin and purpurin, representative index ingredients, were detected in most of the samples, but the index ingredient content in each sample was different. In addition, some samples showed the variety of peaks including the index ingredients and others. It was inferred that the representative index ingredients could be used on the traceability of natural sourced dyestuffs. These results are related to the index ingredient consistency, standardization, and reproducibility of natural dyed products including such as yarns, fabrics, garments, and so on. Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that in order to determine the conformity assessment system for the satisfaction of all stakeholders, the offering of information on the origin, manufacturing process, and index ingredient content of natural dyes should be prioritized.