• Title/Summary/Keyword: textile and apparel industry

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A Study on the Change of Dye-ability of Cornus officinalis with Mordanting Treatment and Colorfastness (산수유의 염색성과 견뢰도에 관한 연구)

  • Bae, Kye-In;Choi, In-Ryu;Park, Kyeon-Soon
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.9 no.3
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    • pp.47-57
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    • 2007
  • This study focused on the properties natural dyeing and natural material and on the development of functional material for well-being in apparel industry. Comus officinalis Siebold et Zuccarini is used as natural dyeing material which had been reported that have curable effect for unbalanced immunity, geriatric diseases like urinary tract system, diabetes, hypertension, arthritis, tinnitus, hyperhidrosis and women's diseases like hypermenorrhea. And this material also has anti-cancer effect so that can restraint cancer cells. 3 kinds tester of cotton, wool and silk are dyed by boiled with each dye (flower, fruits, bark of tree) as first dyeing and dried in the shade. These testers are done by post-mordanting method. Aluminium Potassium(Alk(SO4)2), Cuprie Sulfate($CuSO4{\cdot}5H2O$), Stannous Chloride($SnCl2{\cdot}2H2O$), Ferrous Sulfate($FeCl2{\cdot}4H2O$), Titanium Sulfate 24% aqueous solution(Ti(SO4)2) are used as mordants. Dyeing results of Comus officinalis Siebold et Zuccarini flower and bark are shown as yellow color series. And dyeing result of fruits is pink color series. Silk shows the best dyeing property. As the point of view for dyeing property, Ti, Sn, Fe would be the properchoice for mordant. Following results are extracted in this study. Yellow color is resulted in dyeing with Cornus officinalis flower as non-mordanting condition. Yellowish red color is come from dyeing with Comus officinalis fruit as non-mordanting condition. Grayish yellow tone is resulted in dyeing with bark as non-mordanting condition. Orange tone color with Ti-mordanting, green tone color with Sn-mordanting and gray tone color with Fe-mordanting is resulted respectively. However light-fastness of Comus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is very low as 1 or 2 level in non-mordanting condition, Comus officinalis flower dyeing is turned out 3 or 4 level and fruit dyeing is 4 or 5 level, bark dyeing is 2 or 3 level with Ti-mordanting respectively. Eventually Comus officinalis fruit has the best light-colorfastness property among all of dyes. dry cleaning colorfastness of Cornus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is good as 4 or 5 level in Ti-mordanting condition, perspiration-colorfastness of Cornus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is good as 4 or 5 level in Ti-mordanting condition, With these results, this study could conclude that dye-ability, colorfastness problem is getting better after mordanting process and practical usage would be possible.

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A Difference of Clothing Behavior of Jean's Wearer According to the Gender (성별에 따른 청바지 착용자의 의복행동 차이)

  • Lee, Joung-Suk;Sung, Su-Kwang
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.6 no.3
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    • pp.336-340
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    • 2004
  • This is the result of the comparison of the number of jeans, colors, images, opinions when it was purchased, shapes according to the gender of persons in jeans. According to the gender, male students had 1.64 jeans(46.3%) and female students had 2.09 jeans(53.7%) on the average. Male students selected colors of jeans which they don't have, but want to wear once in the order of blue(3.7%), red(21.0%), white(24.1%), black(25.6%), and others(25.6%). Female students selected colors in the order of blue(3.2%), black(15.6%), red(24.8%), white(27.7%) and others(25.6%). In case of the general image about jeans, male students thought the jeans as masculine(1.2%), sexy(3.1%), unisexual(3.2%), active(23.6%), young(29.8%), and comfortable(36.5%) and female students thought it as masculine(0.3%), sexy(3.5%), unisexual(10.4%), young(21.9%), comfortable(28.1%) and active(35.8%). Male students considered torn or holed jeans ill-mannered(10.7%), delinquent, (20.7%)trendy(21.0%), comfortable(22.9%), and dandy(24.7%). Female students think it ill-mannered(3.4%), delinquent7.1%, trendy(17.4%), comfortable(21.1%), and dandy(50.9%). When they purchase jeans, male students choose according to trends(17.9%), don't consider design(19.5%) and look for their own styles(62.6%), female students didn't consider design(5.2%), choose according to trends(22.0%), and look for their own styles(72.5%). The designs of jeans which they usually wear were bell bottom(1.5%), wide-shaped(7.4%), baggy(17.5%), straight-shaped(73.6%) in case of male students. on the other hand, in case of female students, baggy(10.2%), wide-shaped(11.0%), bell bottom(17.0%), and straight-shaped(61.8%). The designs of jeans which they didn't have but want to wear once are wide-shaped(10.1%), bell bottom(13.2%), baggy(20.9%), and straight-shaped(55.2%) in case of male students. On the other hand, females students want to wear baggy(11.6%), wide-shaped(15.0%), straight-shaped(27.6%), and bell bottom(45.8%). The above-mentioned findings illustrated that both male and female students regarded blue as the original color of jeans, but they wanted to wear jeans in colors other than blue. In the past, jeans were considered masculine and unisex, but they viewed jeans as an apparel that was comfortable to wear and made it easier to move. Female students had a higher tendency to be fashionable than male students, and their preference for jeans was consequently different. Jeans manufacturers should take those characteristics into account to produce products in different colors and form.

An Exploratory Study on the Status of and Demand for Higher Education Programs in Fashion in Myanmar (미얀마의 패션 고등교육 현황과 수요에 대한 탐색적 연구)

  • Kang, Min-Kyung;Jin, Byoungho Ellie;Cho, Ahra;Lee, Hyojeong;Lee, Jaeil;Lee, Yoon-Jung
    • Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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    • v.34 no.3
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    • pp.1-23
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    • 2022
  • This study examined the perceptions of Myanmar university students and professors regarding the status and necessity of higher education programs in fashion. Data were collected from professors in textile engineering at Yangon Technological University and Myanmar university students. Closed- and open-ended questions were asked either through interviews or by email. The responses were analyzed using keyword extraction and categorization, and descriptive statistics(closed questions). Generally, the professors perceived higher education, as well as the cultural industries including art and fashion, as important for Myanmar's social and economic development. According to the students interests in pursuing a degree in textile were limited, despite the high interest in fashion. Low wages in the apparel industry and lack of fashion degrees that meet the demand of students were cited as reasons. The demand was high for educational programs in fashion product development, fashion design, pattern-making, fashion marketing, branding, management, costume history, and cultural studies. Students expected to find their future career in textiles and clothing factories. Many students wanted to be hired by global fashion brands for higher salaries and training for advanced knowledge and technical skills. They perceived advanced fashion education programs will have various positive effects on Myanmar's national economy.

Masstige Phenomenon Appeared on Contemporary Textiles & Fashion Brand (현대 섬유패션브랜드에 나타난 매스티지 현상)

  • Pak, Ok-Mi;Rhee, Soo-Cheol
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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    • v.4 no.1 s.7
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    • pp.4-11
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    • 2006
  • Masstige goods aimed consumers who want the fame and the emotional contents with reasonable price are presented overall and around the life style, from all the fashion items like bag and apparel to car, electric household, food, sports goods, furniture, toys, pets and performance of art, etc. Masstige casual, essentially different from the passed casuals which emphasized only price strategy, appeals to teenagers and young of twenties with a definite brand concept. Therefore masstige casual might be separated from business casual of a target aged thirties. Established celebrity brands have launched masstige brands matching the popularization of prestige goods. Armani Exchange from Armani, Marc by Marc Jacobs from Louis Vuitton are representative ones. DKNY from Donna Karen, MiuMiu from Prada, Paul smith Pink from Paul Smith can be added. These are relatively inexpensive, however the quality, design and shop's atmosphere are more exclusive than general brands. Consumers are over middle class and have a pride and fidelity to those brands. Leading Masstige trend, new luxury brands put the importance to the quality and aims middle class. To succeed in this field, companies should know exactly what consumers want, considering not only functional aspect but also emotional pleasure. Even though masstige has a weakness in pricing, it has to keep brand's proper benefit. Its price range could be wide to be in great demand but has to have elasticity and not to be expanded too much. Masstige industry should do its best not to damage original brand's identity. Forming family brand, like Armani made Georgic Armani, Emporio Armani and Armani exchange, system of parent brand and sub brands would be recommendable. From the launching time, masstige needs the effects to create a sensation and bring it into vogue and offer emotional value to the consumers.

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A Study on Development of Fashion Goods using Gilsang Patterns - Focusing on Apparel - (길상문양을 응용한 자카드 직물 패션상품 개발 연구 - 어패럴 제품을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Mi-Young;Kim, Kyung-Hee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.16 no.4
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    • pp.722-734
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    • 2008
  • This study focuses on the trend of modern society that places importance on health and happiness. By using gilsang (signs that brings good fortunes) patterns that wishes for fortune and health, the objective of this study is to design a distinct but universal fashion good that is unique to Korea and is used not only as a piece of artwork, but as part of development of new and assorted cultural products that is competitive in the international society. This study was conducted first by studying related documents for the theoretical background. In addition, in order to satisfy consumer demands, a jacquard that can procure international competitiveness was designed and fashion goods fitting to this was planned. Through this, the various possibilities of using the jacquard designs were suggested. The development process of fashion goods using jacquard was divided into 10 stages: theme setting, gilsang pattern setting, sketching, textile plan, design organization, input, simulation process, perforation and sewing, selection of design for the fashion good and goods production. Fashion materials are a very important element in creating variations and uniqueness in the fashion industry. Development of new materials has made the aesthetic and ornamental elements, together with the practical and functional aspects of textiles possible. A major issue today is rising out of the past mass production method of OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturing), and developing various artistic patterns that can be used in mass-produced products and assorted production in small quantities in order to develop specialized fashion goods.

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Utilization of 3D Virtual Garment Simulation Program Proposed for the Evaluation of Movement Fitness - Focusing on the Men's Jean Pants - (동작 적합성 평가를 위한 3차원 가상착의 프로그램 활용 방안 - 남성 진 팬츠를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Kyung-A;Uh, Mi-Kyung;Hong, Eun-Hee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.55-66
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    • 2015
  • The objective of this study is to propose a method by which movement fitness can be evaluated using a three-dimensional virtual garment simulation program. To this end, five types of jean pants for men were evaluated on the program by setting the avatars to make particular movements to examine the level of pressure on each body part. To verify whether the clothing pressure measurement produces valid and reliable results, virtual garment simulation program was utilized. The results indicated that there were significant differences in the levels of pressure on body parts depending on the type of test garment and motion. In addition, the clothing pressure measurement results were in line with the appearance evaluation results suggested by a previous study. Based on this set of results, the nomological validity of the clothing pressure measurement program used in this study was verified. Moreover, we employed an appearance evaluation along with the clothing pressure measurement to verify the reliability of the program; there was a high correlation between clothing pressure measurements and appearance evaluation measurements, indicating that measuring clothing pressures may well compensate for the limitations of appearance evaluation. We expect the results of this study to make valuable contributions in facilitating the digitalization of the fashion industry. Furthermore, this study also is significant in that it has suggested 3D virtual fitting programs as a solution to the long-criticized problem related to the evaluation of movement fitness in existing virtual garment simulation programs.

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Aesthetic Characteristics of Hanae Mori's Apparel (하나에 모리(Hanae Mori) 의상에 나타난 미적 특성)

  • Choi, Young-Ok
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.9 no.6
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    • pp.613-625
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    • 2007
  • Globalizing the Japanese fashion successfully, Hanae Mori's work awoke the western fashion world's nostalgia towards the East. Analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes what kinds of aesthetic characteristic that her work had and what kinds of influences that she made in the modern fashion would provide substantial contribution of the world's modern fashion. This study provided forms and remarkable features of Japanese traditional custom, revealed Hanae Mori's life and her philosophies of fashion, and defined Hanae Mori's aesthetic characteristics by analyzing her work from 1970's until the retirement, July 2004. Methods of this study are completed by documentary records of Hanae Mori, research papers and fashion magazines that are published domestically and internationally, and collected materials from internet. The results of analysis are epitomized as below. Hanae Mori was the first Japanese fashion designer who expressed the characteristics of traditional Japanese custom with modernity sprit. In the 60's and 70's, especially in the U.S. and European fashion market, she inspired western fashion designers by her original sprit of art: combining Japanese tradition which showed distinctive color and spirit of nature and the western beauty. Hanae Mori created new dress molding from the Kimono's unstructured feature. Her layered look dressing, oblique adjustment and Obi, and others all enabled Mori to express Japanese image into modern fashion. Additionally, in terms of traditional Japanese image being acknowledged world-widely, she played a major contribution in world fashion by suggesting a new vision and raised several sensations in fashion artistry and modeling. Amongst her various patterns, Hanae Mori had butterfly patterns in most of her works, which was her representative symbol. This spoke for her strong will and senses of duty that wanting to inform beauty of Japanese women who were reflected in modern and graceful butterfly patterns. Flowers were another element that symbolized Mori. Using various flower motifs that bloomed in every different four seasons, she connected two images into her fashion; beauty of the nature and enlightening image of vibrating life. The aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes were defined as five: Japonism, naturalism, feminism, eroticism, and modernism. Japonism which is the spirit of Japanese, Mori used the concept to connect the East and the West. Naturalism represented harmony of the nature and the human. Feminism highlighted Eastern women's beauty. Eroticism emitted feminine attraction. Modernism represented simplicity and sophistication. Such aesthetic character illustrated Mori's original emotion that was based on Japanese spirit and she combined it with values of the East and the West. From the analysis of Mori's aesthetic characteristics, it is clearly recognizable her feministic beauty is emanated by her original emotion and sensibility.

Developing an Assortment Planning Process Model for Clothing Retail Buyers: An Exploratory Research

  • Kang, Keang-Young;Kincade, Doris H.
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.6 no.6
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    • pp.815-824
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    • 2004
  • In academic and/or practitioner literature, the assortment planning for fashion sensitive products is rarely systematically studied, and organized in an objective format. The purpose of this study was to develop a suggested assortment planning model for women's clothing retail buyers by integrating a conceptual assortment planning model and a practical-use assortment planning model, which are also developed in this study. In developing the conceptual model, this research categorized and organized the pieces of assortment planning activities illustrated in available literature. In developing the practical-use model, ten women's dress buyers from department stores and specialty stores were interviewed. The contents of the interview dictation were classified and summarized by concepts and variables. The summary was validated by the interviewees and recontextualized for the practical-use model. Five experts compared the conceptual and practical-use models, adjusted the discrepancies, and integrated into the suggested model. In addition, a questionnaire asking review of all functional activities of the suggested model was sent to interviewees to ascertain its validity. As the result, assortment planning process was determined at abstract level as the following: (a) recognize problem, (b) search for information, (c) evaluate qualitative value of product, (d) evaluate quantitative value of product, (e) plan product selection, and (f) plan sales.

Collaboration Strategies of Fashion Companies and Customer Attitudes (시장공사적협동책략화소비자태도(时装公司的协同策略和消费者态度))

  • Chun, Eun-Ha;Niehm, Linda S.
    • Journal of Global Scholars of Marketing Science
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.4-14
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    • 2010
  • Collaboration strategies entail information sharing and other varied forms of cooperation that are mutually beneficial to the company and stakeholder groups. This study addresses the specific types of collaboration used in the fashion industry while also examining strategies that have been most successful for fashion companies and perceived benefits of collaboration from the customer perspective. In the present study we define fashion companies and brands as collaborators and their partners or stakeholders as collaboratees. We define collaboration as a cooperative relationship where more than two companies, brands or individuals provide customers with beneficial outcomes utilizing their own competitive advantages on an equal basis. Collaboration strategies entail information sharing and other varied forms of cooperation that are mutually beneficial to the company and stakeholder groups. Through collaboration, fashion companies have pursued both tangible differentiation, such as design and technology applications, and intangible differentiation such as emotional and psychological benefits to customers. As a result, collaboration within the fashion industry has become an important, value creating concept. This qualitative study utilized case studies and in-depth interview methodologies to examine customers' attitudes concerning collaboration in the fashion industry. A total of 173 collaboration cases were identified in Korean and international markets from 1998 through December 2008, focusing on fashion companies. Cases were collected from documented data including websites and industry data bases and top ranked portal search sites such as: Rankey.com; Naver, Daum, and Nate; and representative fashion information websites, Samsungdesignnet and Firstviewkorea. Cases were collected between November 2008 and February 2009. Cases were selected for the analysis where one or more partners were associated with the production of fashion products (excluding textile production), retail fashion products, or designer services. Additional collaboration case information was obtained from news articles, periodicals, internet portal sites and fashion information sites as conducted in prior studies (Jeong and Kim 2008; Park and Park 2004; Yoon 2005). In total, 173 cases were selected for analysis that clearly exhibited the benefits and outcomes of collaboration efforts and strategies between fashion companies and stakeholders. Findings show that the overall results show that for both partners (collaborator and collaboratee) participating in collaboration, that the major benefits are reduction of costs and risks by sharing resource such as design power, image, costs, technology and targets, and creation of synergy. Regarding types of collaboration outcomes, product/design was most important (55%), followed by promotion (21%), price (20%), and place (4%). This result shows that collaboration plays an important role in giving life to products and designs, particularly in the fashion industry which seeks for creative and newness. To be successful in collaboration efforts, results of the depth interviews in this study confirm that fashion companies should have a clear objective on why they are doing the collaboration. After setting the objective, they should select collaboratees that match their brand image and target market, make quality co-products that have definite concepts and differentiating factors, and also pay attention to increasing brand awareness. Based on depth interviews with customers, customer benefits were categorized into six factors: pursuit for individual character; pursuit for brand; pursuit for scarcity; pursuit for fashion; pursuit for economic efficiency; and pursuit for sociality. Customers also placed more importance on image, reputation, and trust of brands regarding the cases shown in the interviews. They also commented that strong branding should come first before other marketing strategies. However, success factors recognized by experts and customers in this study showed different results by subcategories. Thus, target customers and target market should be studied from various dimensions to develop appropriate strategies for successful collaboration.