• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.33 no.6
• /
• pp.581-589
• /
• 2019

In order to understand the characteristics of beach deformation, in this study, numerical simulations were conducted using a 3-D hydro-morphodynamic model (HYMO-WASS-3D) to analyze the characteristics of beach deformation due to the coastal groundwater levels. HYMO-WASS-3D directly analyzed the nonlinear interaction between the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes in the coastal area. The simulation results of HYMO-WASS-3D showed good agreement with the experimental results on the changes in the profile of the beach in the surf and swash zones. Then, numerical simulations were conducted to examine the characteristics of beach deformation due to the variation of the level of the coastal groundwater. As a result, the beach profiles were examined in relation to the wave breaking in the surf zone and the wave uprush and backwash in the swash zone due to the differences in the water levels. This paper also discussed the temporal and spatial distributions of the velocities, vorticities, and suspended sediments in the surf and swash zones with various levels of the coastal groundwater.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.35 no.1
• /
• pp.13-24
• /
• 2002

In a physically realistic but simplified manner, an attempt is made in this study to develop a predictive model for swash hydrodynamics across the shore due to the storm waves on an arbitrary beach profile. Date from the SUPERTANK laboratory Data Collection Project are used for the model development, in which experiments were designed to simulate dune erosion under storm conditions at a prototype scale. The model predicts variations of swash height, velocity and period across the beach face in a swash zone. In general, the model proves to be capable of predicting variations of swash height, velocity and period across the shore. Quantitatively better predictions for the swash parameters could be achieved by improving the prediction of the beach face elevation, ymax, where the significant swash height becomes zero.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.56 no.10
• /
• pp.603-617
• /
• 2023

This study aims to provide a better understanding of the turbulent flow characteristics in swash zone. A double dam-break method is employed to generate the swash zone flow. Comparing with the conventional single dam-break method, a delay between two gate opening can be controlled to reproduce various interactions between uprush and backwash. For numerical simulations, overInterDyMFoam based on OpenFOAM is adopted. Using overInterDyMFoam, interface between two immiscible fluids having different densities (i.e., air and water phases) can be tracked in a moving mesh with multiple layers. Two-dimensional Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes equations are solved with a standard 𝜅-𝜖 turbulence model for momentum and continuity. Numerical model results are validated with laboratory experiment data for the time series of water depth and streamwise velocity. Turbulent kinetic energy distribution is further investigated to identify the turbulence evolution for each flow regime (i.e., uprush, backwash, and swash-swash interaction).

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.28 no.1B
• /
• pp.95-109
• /
• 2008

We numerically analyzed the nonlinear shoaling, a plunging breaker and its accompanying energetic suspension of sediment at a bed, and a redistribution of suspended sediments by a down rush of preceding waves and the following plunger using SPH with a Gaussian kernel function, Lagrangian Dynamic Smagorinsky model (LDS), Van Rijn's pick up function. In that process, we came to the conclusion that the conventional model for the tractive force at a bottom like a quadratic law can not accurately describe the rapidly accelerating flow over a swash zone, and propose new methodology to accurately estimate the bottom tractive force. Using newly proposed wave model in this study, we can successfully duplicate severely deformed water surface profile, free falling water particles, a queuing splash after the landing of water particles on the free surface and a wave finger due to the structured vortex on a rear side of wave crest (Narayanaswamy and Dalrymple, 2002), a circulation of suspended sediments over a swash zone, net transfer of sediments clouds suspended over a swash zone toward the offshore, which so far have been regarded very difficult features to mimic in the computational fluid mechanics.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.18 no.3
• /
• pp.241-250
• /
• 2006

In the present study, a beach survey such as sand sizes, swim zone widths, and slopes of swash zone has been accomplished for 39 beaches along the Gangwon coastline. The data analysis presents that the swim zone width has a strong correlation with the sand size, showing that the swim zone width is reversely proportional to the 1.1 power of a grain size. The profile factor A has been analyzed using the beach profile form of $h=Ay^{2/3}$, where A was resulted to be proportional to the 0.77 power of a gram size.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
• /
• v.21 no.5
• /
• pp.591-598
• /
• 2015

A hydraulic characteristics in the surf zone such as wave breaking points, wave set-down, wave set-up, wave-induced currents and run-up heights are studied using the SWASH model during Typhoon NAKRI(1412) in Haeundae Beach. Incident wave conditions is obtained from one-hourly observed wave data by KHOA and irregular wave by JONSWAP spectrum is given as an open boundary condition in the model. A Wave-induced current patterns by the SWASH model is compared with the observed currents and sediment flux patterns in that areas, the calculated maximum wave run-up heights in the model is compared with the video monitoring data, the empirical formula by Stockdon et al. and Mase. A dominant longshore currents toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident wave direction and the geographical features and some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. The maximum wave run-up height(1.15 m) by the SWASH model shows a similar pattern with the video monitoring data(1.26 m) and the magnitude shows a similar result(1.33m) by Stockdon et al.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.27 no.6
• /
• pp.382-390
• /
• 2015

To simulate a complicated hydrodynamic phenomena in the surf zone, the SWASH model is used in Haeundae Beach. The SWASH model is well known as a model competing with the Boussinesq-type model in terms of near shore waves and wave-induced currents modelling. This study is aimed to the detailed analysis of seasonal waves and wave-induced current simulation in Haeundae Beach, where the representative seasonal wave conditions was obtained from hourly measured wave data in 2014 by Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration( KHOA). Incident wave conditions were given as irregular waves by JONSWAP spectrum. The calculated seasonal wave-induced current patterns were compared with the field observation data. In summer season, a dominant longshore current toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident waves from the South and the bottom bathymetry, then some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. In the winter season, ESE incident waves generates a strong westward longshore currents. However, a weak eastward longshore currents appears at the restricted east side areas of the beach.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.28 no.3B
• /
• pp.345-354
• /
• 2008

In this present study, we made a first attempt to investigate physical transformations of incident waves in surf and swash zone and hydrodynamic phenomena of detached and submerged breakwaters. For an accurate simulation of the complicated wave deformation, Three-Dimensional numerical model with Large Eddy Simulation has been developed recently and expanded properly for the current applications, which is able to simulate an accurate and direct WAve Structure Sandy seabed interaction (hereafter, LES-WASS-3D). LES-WASS-3D has been validated through the comparison with experimental results for limited cases, and has been used for the simulation of wave run-up on sandy beach, mean fluid flows over and around submerged structures and swash zone (alongshore/rip current), and spatial distribution of wave height in wide fluid regions. In addition, a strategy of efficient deployment ($Y/L_i=1.50{\sim}1.75$, $W/L_r=0.50$) of the submerged breakwaters has been discussed.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.11 no.3
• /
• pp.153-162
• /
• 1997

시간평균된 해안의 지하수위는 내륙쪽에 강우가 없는 경우에도 평균해수면 (Mean Sea Level)보다 1내지 2미터 정도 높은 것으로 관측되었다. 이러한 해안의 지하수위상승현상은 주로 파랑과 조석의 작용에 의해 나타난다. 본 연구에서는 지하수위상승에 미치는 조석 및 파랑의 효과를 현장관측결과를 통해 정량적으로 보여주었으며, 또한 이들 각각의 작용에 기인한 지하수위상승에 대한 해석해 및 최근 이론들을 제시하였다. 특히, 최근 지하수의 수리학적 모델링에 관한 연구에서 파랑의 침투 (wave runup infiltration)효과의 중요성이 강조되었는 바, 본 연구를 통해 종래에 보고된 바 없는 swash zone (shoreline과 runup limit사이)에서의 파랑의 침투속도(분포)를 지하수위관측자료를 이용해 간접적으로 산정함으로써 해안의 지하수위예측모델링을 보다 정확히 수행할 수 있으리라 사료된다.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.224-235
• /
• 2014

Changes in the interactions among incident ocean water waves, coastal debris (marine debris), and the back vegetation zone line on a natural sandy beach on the island of Jinu-do in the Nakdong river estuary were investigated. The study involved a cross-sectional field survey of the beach, numerical modeling of incident ocean water waves, field observations of the distribution of coastal debris, and vegetation zone line tracking using GPS. The conclusions of this study can be summarized as follows: (1) The ground level of the swash zone (sandy beach) on Jinu-do is rising, and the vegetation zone line, which is the boundary of the coastal sand dunes, shows a tendency to move forward toward the open sea. The vegetation zone line is developing particularly strongly in the offshore direction in areas where the ground level is elevated by more than 1.5 m. (2) The spatial distributions of incident waves differed due to variations in the water depth at the front of the beach, and the wave run-up in the swash zone also displayed complex spatial variations. With a large wave run-up, coastal debris may reach the vegetation zone line, but if the run-up is smaller, coastal debris is more likely to deposit in the form of an independent island on the beach. The deposited coastal debris can then become a factor determining which vegetation zone line advances or retreats. Finally, based on the results of this investigation, a schematic concept of the mechanisms of interaction between the coastal debris and the coastal vegetation zone line due to wave action was derived.