• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.352-367
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• 2007

Viktor and Rolf, despite their short career in the field, has been continuously giving a fresh impact on fashion design by grafting a surrealistic approach to their design works. As a basis of this study, we review the features of surrealistic drawing and the surrealistic features expressed in surrealistic clothes. The purpose of this study is to analyze the surrealistic features detected in the clothes designed by Viktor and Rolf on the basis of the above standard and review and predict the future trend in fashion. As for the research method, we review the previous researches and analyze the drawing works by some representative surrealistic artists, in particular, Schiaparelli's clothes in the 1930s, the clothes of surrealistic trend since 2000, and Viktor & Rolf's clothes. The result of the analysis is as follows. The surrealistic features of Viktor & Rolf clothes can be found in the movement of natural objects, the movement of everyday materials, the movement of clothing items, and visual illusion on clothes. As a whole, the surrealistic features clearly stood out in their clothes. High technology will rapidly change the modern society and we humans are likely to resort to something fresh or different as our emotion and feelings are getting tired and weary. Something that stimulates our feeling and emotion hidden behind our reason or logic will be reflected in design far more than something complex and functional. For this reason, as it reveals human imagination inherently, surrealism is expected to establish itself as a mega trend in the future.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Interior Design Conference
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• 2007.05a
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• pp.231-236
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• 2007

The aspects of contemporary society change have been changed rapidly running for function value on the part of part industrialization and information-oriented. The transfer to the society focused on a human being emphasis and symbol value is in progress rising with natural desire of recurrence of human nature accordingly and desires of a human being inborn of sensitivity-oriented and pluralism-oriented are being expressed. Answering these social and cultural demands, concerns about an arbitrary mind world of a human being and pursuit dispositions about impractical and transcendental world are coincided with to the purpose and so various kinds of expressions except for art sphere are being experimented and applied. Here upon also in the field of the contemporary interior design, answering sensual desire of users, various arts and cultural tendency, the concept of surrealism is being applied in design introducing the concept of surrealism positive. And fantastical and unreasonable expression features of surrealism are being used as subjective essential elements to make new spaces. Especially amoung various kinds of the interiors designs, the features like surrealistic expressions in Food & Beverage Space which proper identity and strong symbolism will be expressed can be recognized as appropriate expression patterns to give still more sensitivity stimuli to customers. Thus this research disclosed conceptual and ideological background of surrealism and also analyzed and studied surrealistic expression features applied to the interiors designs of Contemporary Food & Beverage Space through expression disposition, study and classification of techniques. And standing on the result of analyzing surrealistic expression features of Contemporary Food & Beverage Space with a key word of expression features derived we groped for estatescape trend demanded in Food & Beverage Space and direction coming.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.39-56
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• 2004

At the outset, surrealism starts from pure art, but surrealism has greatly influenced commercial art and fashion circles, more so than any other genre of art. The critical thinking methods of surrealism and its mode of expression continues to influence fashion theory extensively. Even now, surrealism may be found in the designs presented in fashion circles and is still expected for future lines. Surrealism in modern fashion has been reborn, newly integrated and transformed, based on the features of Surrealism paintings. The characteristics of its forms can be found in a combination of modern material, modern design and new skills and the classical items : bodyform molding context of architecture, experimental and sex-appealing of body. Expression was made by borrowing natural motives and recreating natural fabrics while the existing typical idea about clothes was destructed, with the boundary of patterns changed. Expression was also made by mixing items, uniting future images, and using up-to-date functional techniques. This study is significant that up-to-date technological culture expands cyber-space and increases surrealistic expressions by combined heterogeneous materials, thus arousing much interest. The purpose of this study is to determine interrelationship between how surrealism developed and what formative properties those clothes affected by surrealism obtained in the 1990s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.6
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• pp.133-147
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• 2015

The aim of this study is to review the creative fashion installation of Henrik Vibskov, Danish designer. Its intention is to contribute useful information for more innovative fashion presentation. As a research method, document and case study were performed and his collections from 2004 F/W to 2016 S/S were analyzed. In fashion installation, the designer puts objects in meaningful spaces in order to convey a certain message, to make an integrated artwork, and to interact with spectator. It has been used in fashion exhibitions, as well as in the set design of fashion performance and fashion show. The results were as follows. Henrik Vibskov's fashion installation has three features, which are 1)conceptual theme approach that communicates a twisted and metaphoric message, with a poetic and interesting show title, 2) surrealistic scenography that plays with fragmentation of the human body, clustering of plastic and symbolic objects, innovative color transformations, and visual trickery between figures and the background, and 3) setting for multisensory performance that makes spectators interact by making artistic objects and surroundings, which stimulates the five senses. Henrik Vibskov's fashion installation can exist as an independent artwork, and not just as a supporting piece for a fashion show. It has both artistic and fashionable values, and can be an effective fashion presentation communicating his conceptual fashion themes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.99-112
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to examine the relation between the cyber environment and the contemporary fashion design by studying the formative feature characteristics of cyber character's fashion in the on-line game from the point of the contemporary fashion design. The research method is to understand the general concept of the cyber-space and characters and then is to contemplate characteristics and formative features of game character's fashion of the cyber-space mainly with cyber characters that were closely linked with features of the contemporary fashion design. As a result, the formative feature of game character's fashion of the cyber-space was to be classified into four categories; reactionism, mechanism, futurism, sensualism. First, reactionism takes traditional elements with symbolical and compromising form. Second, mechanism has a tendency of deconstruction due to its vitality and sense of velocity for objects through employing geometrical forms and new materials. Third, futurism deviates from the established framework. It makes use of high-tech materials and has surrealistic and futuristic features. Fourth, sensualism does emphasize sensual parts of the body and intends to convey aesthetic atmosphere through association of ideas. Character's fashion of the cyber on-line game is unnatural and artificial in its forms and wear for the lack of knowledge for costume's structure, and it shows just simplified design that accept extremely partial fragment of features in the contemporary fashion design.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.3-11
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• 2015

I paid attention to the fact that surrealism emerging in early 20th century has been resurfacing in the 21st century. It may be because of the increasing interest on the space showing the surrealistic features as people in these days prefer the experimental and dramatic space beyond repetitive daily life. I tried to identify the expressive characteristics in the interior space adopting the depaysement technique among a variety of expression techniques of surrealism. To this end, this paper selected 10 interior design projects by Fabio Novembre and Marcel Wanders since 2000s. As the methodology, chapter 2 examined the theories to identify the expression targets and approaches of depaysement around the art paintings. Next, the standard for case analysis in this paper was established by investigating the existing theses related to interior and space design with depaysement as the key word. The expressive characteristics of depaysement identified from the existing researches were classified into morphological, figurative, material and space program. Those programs were developed as the classification system in this paper. Chapter 3 described the design background and features of Fabio Novembre and Marcel Wanders. On the basis of the features and analysis framework identified in chapter 2 and 3, chapter 4 analyzed the features of depaysement observed in the works by both designers. The conclusion was presented in chapter 5. For the expressive characteristics of depaysement observed in the space by both designers, Novembre created optical illusion using distortion or overlap on the morphological aspect. Wanders showed mainly the feature of changing the scale. In accordance with the analysis on expression principles, the features including spatial continuity, ambiguity of border, visual amusement and uncertainty were differentiated in all spaces.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.7-17
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• 2014

This paper aims at researching the cave concept of the Japanese architect Terunobu Fujimori and the result could be summarised as follows. First, a cave is Fujimori's only theme related to the interior space. He set some design guidelines for practice concerning openings of the wall and finishing materials of the interior, following the two major characteristics of a cave: 'comfortability' and 'homogeneity in material'. And 'fire' was also the premise in the cave as a 'spirit' of the space. Second, Fujimori applied the concrete guidelines to Tanpopo House (1994~95), which had in fact borne the ideas. Yakisugi House (2005~07) that took the cave as its design theme showed the transition of his cave concept, from closedness to openness. Third, though his cave concept might deserve the criticism that it is inclined to 'image' rather than 'essence', it illustrates that he seeks after an archetype of human dwelling before the purity of the original space was tarnished with rationality and abstraction. And the cave idea allows the seemingly contradictory 'sachlich' and 'surrealistic' features to coexist. Summing up, Fujimori's cave concept proves that his architecture is a rejection of the Cartesian modernist ideal and the contemporary architects' desire for dematerialisation. In a fundamental level, however, it is a result of his strategic choice induced by his own primary principle that his building must not be similar to any styles in history or any other architects' works in the world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.188-208
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• 2013

This study aims to find out factors of historical specialty and cultural ethnicity that influenced the formation of Spanish fashion as well as examine the characteristics of Spanish fashion by comparing its historical costumes, such as folk costume and court costume with contemporary fashion of major Spanish designers in the 20th century. Documental investigation and analysis of visual materials were used as research method. The study results are as follows: The major factors that affected the characteristics of Spanish fashion in the history include the geographical features, invasion of foreign nations, cultural heritage of various ethnic groups, strengthening of the national power, advancement of international trading through the newly developed routes, and influence of religions such as Christianity, Islam, and Judaism. Featuring the coexistence of variety and heterogeneity, the ethnicity reflected in the culture harmoniously embraces various spirits such as conflict and coexistence, individualism and collectivism or regionalism, and exclusion and tolerance of religions. In addition, the characteristics in the cultural phenomena include passion, sensuousness, individualism, sense of reality, sense of chic, and the people-centeredness. The basic Characteristics of Spanish fashion include the sensuality of excessive zeal, decorativeness of gorgeous handicrafts, exoticism of people-centered variety, extreme contrast of harmony, touching artistry of chic, and fantastic surrealistic wits.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.86-98
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• 2008

This study is purposed to determine the correlation between contemporary fashion and game characters' clothes and to analyze the formative property of the game characters' clothes expressed in the contemporary fashion. The temporal scope of this study is from 2004 to 2007 based on general online game ranks, while the game type is limited to 3D-online role playing game. The most popular clothes of game characters are analyzed and found to have imaginary, sensualistic, and cross-sexual features. These are also expressed as Cyber resistance image, Femme fatal image and Asexual image in the contemporary fashion. Firstly, the Cyber resistance image in the recent fashion is shown as belligerent, destructive and surrealistic image in contemporary fashion. Secondly, the Femme fatal image represents bewitching, brutal and narcissistic image with sleek materials and glowing colors in contemporary fashion. Thirdly, the Asexual image means the concept of sex as the neuter gender. Especially, this image has been introduced by simple and straight silhouette, black, silver, khaki colors in fashion. Accordingly, the clothes of game characters with the popularity and formative property have close correlation with contemporary fashion even if they do not pursue for practical creativity. In this respect, they can consolidate the position as a new fashion trend if they are developed with various design ideas.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.122-136
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• 2013

This study supplements clothes by studying pleasure shown in accessories of haute couture designers and finds out pleasant characteristics represented in items which play an important role in producing personalities through collections, so the study aims at prospecting design development directions accessories henceforth. For the study period and methods, 295 photo materials were analyzed being judged to show pleasure centered on Mode et Mode, representative fashion magazine, from 2005 S/S Paris haute couture collections to 2013 S/S Paris haute couture collections. At this time, the photos analyses were conducted and selected by two experts (Ph. D holders majored in fashion design) through two times. After analyzing pleasure features represented in fashion collection focused on haute couture accessories, I could know that surrealistic pleasure, anonymity-expressing pleasure, natural pleasure, and exaggerative pleasure were shown. The pleasure, as element that supplements and emphasizes clothes, has had an effect on bringing laughs characteristically.