• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.91-107
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• 2013

Aesthetic values reflecting the phases of the time are well represented in the clothing styles in paintings. Especially, modern German romantic artists' ideologies on the essence of nature and life are reflected in the figures of paintings. This paper aims at finding out how the sublime beauty of German romantic clothing styles is represented in the paintings of Caspar David Friedrich. The research is summarized as follows. First, the German romanticism led the modern romanticism and was especially enthusiastic about the sublime beauty of arts. Second, the sublime means the exaltation of passionately soaring souls and has the mysterious transcendence that unpleasant feeling is elevated to pleasant feeling inside men who are so feeble compared with vast nature. Third, the male and female clothing styles in his paintings represent the religious, contemplative, paradoxical, transcendental, liberating sublime beauties of the German romanticism. Accordingly, a study on the sublime beauty of the German romantic clothing styles will renew the interpretation and aesthetic values of early modern clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.69-83
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• 2013

This research is to analyze costumes of Greek Mythology Gods in films using Morris' semiotics. In film "Clash of The Titans", Zeus' costume of shining gold armored body suit and long manteaux expressed the limitless sublime. The definite form contouring body shape of his costume also demonstrated classical beauty. Hades' costume of dark colored armor, long manteaux, and transformation via smoke also described the limitless sublime. The unbalanced and irregular shaped armor showed ugliness. In "Percy Jackson & The Olympians: The Lightening Thief", the armor and long manteaux of Zeus showed the limitless sublime. The beauty of his body and his sophisticated business wear indicated classical beauty. These features were also present in Poseidon's costume as well. The limitless sublime and ugliness are implied in Hades' look by portraying him as having a monster body with horns and wings, and his costume of punk look. In "Immortals", gods of Olympus wore clothing that was reminiscent of Egyptian times, which represented a time of strong royal authority, in order to expose the limitless sublime. Classical beauty was shown in the beauty of their body. Titans' costumes and look of non-human being were composed of black and red to present ugliness. The inherent meanings of Gods' costumes are death of god, patriarchy, and the good triumphing over the evil. The Greek gods are not held in the same reverence in the contemporary society. However mythology inspires lots of visual creations. The results help to accumulate a creative design database for fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.5
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• pp.41-57
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze the 20th century＇s makeup according to aesthetic categories. On the basis of aesthetic theories, four category pairs were determined as inter-confronting aesthetic categories: beauty of utility vs. beauty of social aptness : beauty of decoration vs. beauty of construction : sublime vs. grace : classical beauty vs. romantic beauty. 20th century＇s makeup was analyzed at the interval of 10 years referring to the images of actresses in the films produced in Hollywood and European countries. It was identified that 20th century＇s makeup had changed from decorative and dramatic makeup to natural makeup as the century proceeded. Consequently, beauty of social aptness, beauty of decoration. sublime, and romantic beauty were emphasized in the early 1900s while beauty of utility. beauty of construction, grace, classical beauty were emphasized in the later 1900s. In the whole 20th century, grace is the most dominant beauty among eight aesthetic categories due to it connote femininity. As the variety of fashion increases. the makeup patterns has become more diversified in recent years.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.531-539
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristic of men's costume in the Renaissance period. Fashion is a reflection of Zeitgeist. The ideal aesthetic values of each period create the concept of ideal beauty for that period. Costume represents the ideal beauty of a particular period. The aesthetic characteristic of men's costume in the age of Renaissance was analyzed in terms of four categories: the beauty of male body, sublime beauty, sensual beauty, and artistic beauty. First, for the beauty of male body, the men in the age of Renaissance enlarged their chests and shoulders by inserting a pad in them in order to express their masculine beauty of human body by emphasizing their sexual organ. Second, for the sublime beauty, men's costume was exaggerated by using a pad, a ruff collar and slash. In this period, men intended to represent their power and dignity through horizontal extension in their costume. Third, for the sensual beauty, erotic emphasis were made through physical elements. In order to show off sexual charms, men padded their costumes and introduced the codpiece. Last, for the artistic beauty in the age of the Renaissance, men's costume showed proportional, balanced and symmetrical beauty. And men's costume was made of rich brocades, which were embroidered and encrusted with jewels.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.197-209
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to present a way to analyze and review the subjective view of the aesthetic for dress based on the framework of the aesthetic categories suggested by aesthetics. In order to define objectivism and subjectivism of the aesthetic of dress, theoretical studies on the aesthetic categories of dress were precded. And empirical studies on the aethetic categories of dress for selected period, the Renaissance (16th century) and the Baroque(17 th century). The results were follows : The objectivism of the aesthetic is the point of that an object causes human to feel and judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means formal characteristic of dress and pervasive ideology expressed in dress. the subjectivism of the aesthetic is the point that the aesthetic is ruted in human, that is that of dress has been studied in relation to the image, the aesthetic consciousness m, or the aesthetic categories of dress. Especially, the aesthetic category is one of the universal and valid methods for the analysis of subjectivism of the aesthetic for dress. This study includes beauty, grace, elegance , the sublime, the tragic , the comic, aptness, ugliness as aesthetic categories of dress . Beauty is perfection and rule. Grace pleases human by sense. Elegance comes from the harmony of sense and spirit. the sublime comes into existence that human feels pleasure as well as displeasure simultaneously when human is overehelmed by objects. The tragic is the sense of the present of something valuable even if there is suffering. The comic is the sense of the presence of something amusing even if there is displeasure caused by contradiction. Apteness means utility in terms of the objectivism and , formality in terms of the subejctivism. Ugliness is opposite to beauty. As the result of emperical studies, the aesthetic categories of the Renaissance dress showed harmonious, balanced, and symmetrical beauty, and the magnificent, and enlarged sublime. In addition to these , grace and elegance were also found to some extent. Aesthetic categories of the Baroque dress show feminie, soft, cheerful, and fantastic grace, asymmetric , disarmonious, and extraordinary uglinesss, and the magnificient , grave, and dignified sublime.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.95-111
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• 2008

Now when Wests meet Easts, they approach with a motive of acknowledging Eastern or Asian value, concretizing and sharing philosophy. As the result of this study through comparing Eastern and Western view of thinking, First, East is the cosmic beauty of harmony that pursues the harmony with the nature involving emotional and humane affection, and West has the tendency of proportional beauty of harmony involving order and balance. Second, East pursues the metaphorical beauty of mimesis which implies more in invisible parts, and West has the tendency of pursuing visual beauty of mimesis which has contents in visible parts. Third, East is the sublime beauty of nothingness which suggests a blank is endless infinitude of doctrines and mind breath, and West pursues the sublime beauty of being which desires to fill tangible existence without blank. Fourth, East is the expressive beauty that has the intuition of pleasure, which gives weight on non-clearness, emotional joke, and satire, and emphasizes a comic phase, and in West pursuing clearness of order, the concept of the ugliness of disformation is the intuition of defiance, and close to intuition of sadness.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.48-58
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to analyze four separate elements-sublime beauty, elegant beauty, mysticism, ornament-which appeared in materials, patterns, colors, silhouettes, details, and accessories, laying stress on luxurious, brilliant, mysterious feelings on Gorgeous Images appeared as trend theme of modern fashion by mixing religious mysticism of the Byzantine Empire. Mysticism element is using the effect of splendid and gorgeous colors from the Orient rather than forms. And a philosophy of abundant colors in mosaics, which are seen in art forms such as architecture, paintings, etc., shows that it creates some visual rooms for religious spirits. Influenced by the fashion of the Greco-Roman style, the elegant beauty element is expressing abundant comfort and elegant feminine lines that are from creases, and it is also emphasizing natural beauty which seems to slip down by displaying the splendid images of Gorgeous as drapes that fit a body. Ornament element was reflecting an inspiration from the splendid and brilliant culture of religion in the Byzantine Age. Therefore, it was appeared as a style filling the whole with bulky silks, splendid ornamental materials embroidered in gold or silver thread, the complicated geometric patterns that are two-dimensional and dignified, and so on. It was decorated with crosses which represent Christianity as a motif, and also it emphasized the splendor of the Byzantine and dazzling splendid images of Gorgeous by using accessaries decorated with various jewels. The elements of sublime beauty are showing the beauty adding humble and majestic images to it as designs sought by spiritual values or intrinsic values. Those designs, so to speak, have pretense which does not allow to expose a body and plain pure feeling, so that they are showing some abstinent styles in a solemn atmosphere, with most details removed. We can say the Fashion Theme appearing in Modern Times is the result from representing by combining various factors of the times with formative beauty through creative works for aesthetic expression. The moderners are requiring new designs which is possible to meet their individualities, in addition to their outstanding fashion senses. From this point of view, a variety of textiles, patterns, and colors in the Byzantine have a great meaning to fulfill people's various desires as interesting elements.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.701-712
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• 2012

This study examines the various expressions and immanent value of fashion and beauty style based on Craig Owens's Allegory theory. I analyzed four application elements of Borrow, Site Specificity, Accumulation of Strategy, and Hybridization in? Ladygaga's Music Videos. The results are as follows. 'Borrow' presents a kitsch style and playful Pop-art style, transformation of gender from Mini Mouse body suit, telephone headpiece, and can hair. 'Site specificity' presents the temporarity of fashion material through rebirth, aging, natural extinction from the chain over the black jump suit, crime scene tape, and skull-face makeup with masculine style. 'Accumulation of strategy' presents a futuristic chic fashion style from a layered style, retrospective fashion, repetition and duplication in Music Videos. It shows the physical beauty of an Asian warrior style in Poker Face. 'Hybridization' present Cyborg feminism and 'Will of Power' from iPOD LCD glasses and Pyro-Bra. The Pyro-Bra represents how the female body can be used as a weapon in the outfits of Lady Gaga. In addition, Immanent value is as follows. Textual interaction with high art is accomplished through a combination of contemporary social and cultural significance to understand the cultural code and to extend the value. Combined with high culture, popular music genre is accomplished through musical appreciation by a woman in fashion styling and sensual pleasures of the body as a tool to express a sublime advantage. Fashion style is accomplished by overcoming a self-transcendent body image representation. The way in which mutual coupling dismantling, destruction, and uncertainty is to re-launch the static, with a pluralistic context of Textuality.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.453-464
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• 2003

This study is to analyze that the pluralism is the main aspect of the modem fashion which examines the definition and the character of the pluralism. This will also consider the pluralism that appeared on the modern fashion which is based on them. The main point of pluralism is that the world is necessarily aware of plural and difference. Also many values which is focused on the previous generation, for instance disorganize of westernism, androcentrictrism, christianism and powerful nationalism, what is called unfamiliar, heterogeneous, the others and the circumference things. As these were rehabilitated, morality, ethics, religion or politics were all became possible to choose for one's taste. The pluralism expressed in modern fashion can be divided as collapse of genre, grafting the lower and higher orders cultivation, variety way of approaching in time, internationalism. The result for the consideration is that the pluralism has candid attitude for everything so that in the modern fashion is importing variety range of artistic definition. Namely, it is not only containing previous pure art, elegance art and element of artistic sublime beauty, but also has aesthetics of ugliness, deconstructive art and anti-fashion so that the definition of the art is getting vagueness and diverse.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.207-223
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to abstract the image from black dress, which has been favored by many people regardless of the times and examine it throughout the history of drss and thereby clearly define the images that black limplies in dress. Color image is a visual symbol, an image that forms through a combination of visual stimulus created by color, coupled with all the external factors related to it. Black is a one-dimensional color, of which the impact is subjective to its energy, which depends on light reflected on the object, and its texture. Therefore, black projects different images, depending on its surroundings. In general, black has had negative connotations in the Western culture. In dress, however, it has implied other various images different from the general negative ones. By combining general images of black and those exprssed in dress, major images of black were categorized into dignity, elegance, eroticism, asceticism and tragedy. Dignity is a category similar to the sublime. Dress with dignity has sharp contours and is generally made of velvet or silk which can be characterized by their splendor and voluminous-ness, exaggerating the body of a person wearing it. Such costume is mostly found in powerful countries in history such as Burgundy Court in the 15C, Spain in the 16C. Netherlands in the 17C. Elegance evokes grace and beautifulness. It includes elegance, grace, beauty and dandyism as subcategories or silk. Good examples are dandies' black costume and Ladies black and white dressees in the 19C. Eroticism is an image which expresses sexual attractiveness. Costume with eroticism is made of velvet or silk, which project sumptuousness through reflection. Such costumes expose parts of the body or are tightly tailored in order to emphasizes body contours. Asceticism means restraint from physical and mental desires. Costume with asceticism makes a person wearing it look smaller by covering the whole body. Puritan's black dresses and Bourgeoisie's black suit are good examples. Tragedy is anguish. sorrow. Black costume with grievous feelings such as mourning dresses is made of lusterless textile concealing most of the body except for the face.