• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.852-866
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• 2015

This study analyzes the form of sleeve heads, which is an important internal element that affects the appearance of jacket sleeves. It characterized sleeve head forms by investigating angles, materials, and a combination of formations for 50 sleeve heads. It conducted an appearance evaluation by comparing and analyzing the results. This paper develops a sleeve head appropriately for sleeve construction. The study results are as follows. First, the product was divided into three parts: based on, force receiving, and sleeve cap parts. There were four types of man's sleeve head: straight, arc, and curve A and B types. The woman's sleeve head had two types: straight and curve B type. Second, the feature of each type of sleeve head was analyzed. A straight type emphasized the based on part. An arc type highlighted the force receiving part while the based on part decreased. The sleeve cap part, force receiving part, and based on part were emphasized in the arc type sleeve head. Third, as a result of the appearance evaluation, each type was rank as straight type < arc type ${\leq}$ curve A < curve B. The straight type did not get positive results as it had extra ease when the sleeve head was attached to a Jacket Sleeve. The arc type was evaluated poorly due to an inappropriate sleeve cap composition. The curve type received an excellent overall outcome as it fit into the sleeve cap part well and highlighted the force receiving part in order to minimize front and back wrinkles. Therefore, the curve type made the resemblance of the jacket appearance perfect and closest to the sleeve pattern.

• KEPCO Journal on Electric Power and Energy
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.85-91
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• 2021

With the social atmosphere of respect for human life and the increasing interest in safety of field workers, research and development is underway in various ways to transform direct live method into indirect live method in the field of distribution. As part of this measure, it was necessary to convert electric pole and complex facilities work from machining power distribution to indirect live operation, and install a straight connecting sleeve that connects cut wires for by-pass method, but it failed to meet the tensile strength standard when constructing a sleeve constructed by direct method. In this paper, the design factors were derived based on the case of overseas similar sleeves and the tensile strength evaluation of each variable was performed, based on the analysis of these test results, the method for securing tensile strength of straight-line access sleeves for indirect running was presented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.45-52
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• 2007

This study is based on the observation of women's Jangui in 17th centuries. As we observed, Jangui in seventeenth century was shown the same style. They were not headdress but coat. The characteristics of shape are Mokpankit, double-seop, straight sleeve, triangle moo, sam-su(which is attached to the end of sleeves) and a little coat string etc. There is no specific mode difference with the change of times. However, the straight sleeve is shown straight line in the early Chosun dynasty. Jangui in seventeen century are all oblique line sleeve except Jangui of Jin-ju Ha's family. Jangui put on coat do not seem clear-cut difference with the change of times. From Jangui of Yang-chun Hu's family in 14th centuries till An-dong Kim's family, the special features of Jangui are the same style. In addition, The double-seop in 17th centuries was not completely symmetry. However, after 19th centuries, Jangui for headdress was shown perfectly symmetry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.915-929
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• 2000

As a result of research, the character of the general dress-costumes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century in Genre Paintings of DuSeo Yun and YoungSeok Cho is as follows. Firstly young women wore braided hair at the back of head and married women wore hair in the style of Unjeun-mori with Gache. The length of Jeogori (Korean traditional jacket) covered waistor shortened to waist length. The width of Jeongori was suitable, because side-seam line was straight or oblique as it comes into inner line. The width of Git was enough and Mokpan-git (shape of board) and Kal-kit (shape of knife) appeared, and sometimes used other color fabric. Sleeve was narrow and ostly folded up. Chima (Korean traditional skirt) used darker color fabric than Jeogori and the width of Chima was narrow and its length was short. Sokbaji (Korean traditional underpants) shown below were narrow and its end narrower. They were barefoot or they wore Hye (Korean traditional shoes) after putting on Beoseon (Korean traditional socks). Secondly general man's hair tie a topknot (sangtu) and put on headdres, 'Bang-lip', 'Mang-geon', hairband, 'Tang-geon' on head. The length of Jeogori became shorter from the line which covered hip to the line which covered waist. The width of Jeogori was suitable and sometimes it had a slit of side-seam line. The width of Git (neckand) was wide and the length of Git was long. 'Kal-git'appeared and it used other color fabric. The shape of sleeve was straight and narrow. They folded up their sleeves. They folded up their sleeves. They folded up their slack that look like 'Jam-bang-i'and the width of slacks was not suitable, and it was narrow. Baji (Korean traditional pants) were with or without knot, worn 'Hangjeon'(ankle band). They were barefoot and wore 'Hye'or 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Thirdly a person of high birth or a low-ranked official put 'Yu-geon', 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-du', 'Bok-geon', 'Whi-hang'on their head on a topknot. They wore 'Po (Shim-ui, Jick-ryeong'Jung-chi-mak, Do-po, etc)'on Baji and Jeogori. 'Po'was long and wide, it knot with 'Se-jo-dae'(string belt) or 'Po-baek-dae'(band belt). It had a slit of sideline and 'Mu'which had or had not or which were hard to confirm. The shape of sleeve was straight or very wide and its length was long. The width of Baji was wide and knotted with 'Hangjeon'and wore'Beoseon'and 'Hye'. Fourthly child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line and its width was wide. It had a 'Jeogori'which had s slit of sideline. The shape of sleeve was 'Tong-su'(straight), and the length of sleeve was diverse. They put 'Baeja'on 'Jeogori'. The width of Baji was not wide. They wore them straight without or with knot, 'Hangjeon'. They were barefoot or put on 'Jipsin'.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.123-137
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to suggest sleeve cap height with a satisfying wearing sensation and appearance on jackets for women in their twenties so that high-consumer demand jackets can be produced. Five experimental jackets with sleeve cap heights of [(AH/3)-1cm], [(AH/3)-0.5cm], [AH/3], [(AH/3)+0.5cm] and [(AH/3)+0.8cm] were made for 30 subjects to try on after which the subjects were then surveyed for their assessment of appearance, wearing sensation and preference. On the basis of the results, the optimum height of the sleeve cap has been proposed along with the following contents and results of this research. 1. [AH/3] [(AH/3)+0.8cm] of sleeve cap height was assessed to beof desirable appearance. 2. [AH/3] of sleeve cap height garnered a high opinion in terms of intuitive wearing sensation, while [(AH/3)-1cm] [AH/3] were the heights with overall satisfaction of intuitive and movement wearing sensations. If discomfort in the upper sleeve at 'straight arm' posture can be tolerated, the sleeve cap height can be set to [(AH/3)-1cm]~[(AH/3)+0.5cm]. 3. [AH/3] and [(AH/3)+0.5cm] were found to have a high preference among wearers, which indicated that the women in their twenties prefer a slim type of sleeve, putting appearance above wearing sensation. Consequently, [AH/3] is desirable when appearance, wearing sensation and preference are considered, [(AH/3)+0.5cm] is fit for business uniform for static duties or formal dress focused on aesthetic impression and [(AH/3)-1cm]~[AH/3] are desirable for work clothes when considering active duties.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.35-49
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• 2016

Dopo was the clothing of the Joseon period, which had a strong value of Confucianism. Apart from the kings and princes, government officers and Confucian literati wore Dopo as their official clothing and the uniform. The basic form of Dopo had the straight collar similar to Jikryeong. The difference is the shape of a Mu, which was fixed inside or on the back section along the side line of the front section and made two flaps on the back section. The clothing found in the tombs of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) are from the mid-16th century to the early 17th century with the clothing style of the early Joseon period. The outer collar of all clothing was the shawl collar except for the Sibok and the inner collar was sewn to this. Two items had square tray collars, which were folded in half and sewn inside in half. The sleeve had a straight inseam from the armhole and its end around the wrist was round and wide. The carp-shaped inseam of the sleeve and wide sleeve indicated a change of sleeve shape. The shapes of the collars and the wide overlapped section of the dual collars demonstrated the shapes of the initial outer robes. The man's outer coats with wide sleeves were mostly cotton-quilted clothing. As described above, this paper examines the basic shapes of outer robes including Sibok, Jikryeong and man's outer coats on the basis of the clothing and artifacts from the tomb of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) and examined the shapes, composition and features of Dopo. This paper aims to improve awareness of the wisdom and spirit of ancestors in life hidden in the sewing of the three Dopo items and on the importance of historical research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.67-85
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• 2010

School uniform has improved greatly in terms of fit, size, function, and design due to steep competition in the market and the strong interest of researcher, while little effort has been made for physical training uniform, so the objective of this study is to provide basic research data of the training uniform for the improvement of its design and fitness. For this purpose, 327 high school girls provided information on size and design of their uniform, level of satisfaction, the recognized ease in uniform. Most students wore the physical training uniform in another classes and the long sleeved shirt were the most popular one. They often used the uniform for the protection from cold and for comfortable activeness. For a long sleeved shirt, most students preferred raglan sleeve, zip-up collar, straight waist line, and ribbed sleeve cuffs and hem. For long pants, students preferred elastic waist band and ribbed pants cuffs. Currently, the short-sleeved shirt mostly had a shirts collar, ribbed hem, straight waist line with raglan sleeve, but students wanted a round neck and set-in sleeve. For overall level of satisfaction, students showed high satisfaction in terms of function and psychological effect, while aesthetic quality of the uniform was needed to be much improved. Most students evaluated that the circumference of uniforms properly fit or had a little ease, and students considered waist size the most suitable. The long pants length evaluated properly fit or a little long. Students accepted that the ease of summer uniform was more suitable than winter uniform's both at circumference and at length. Depending on students' height distribution, the length of long pants and short pants varied significantly.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.8
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• pp.63-71
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• 2011

The excavated costume of Jangheung Ma's included jeogoris, skirts, and pants, and a jungchimak(중치막), jangot(장옷), cheolrik(철릭), and jikryeong(직령). Most of the items were made of silk and cotton. The clothes for shrouding were plainer than those found in other regions. The method of sewing was mostly broad-stitching, but backstitch, hem tacking and decorative saddle stitching were also used. Unlined clothes were made with on old method of sewing(옛쌈솔), which was used mainly in the early period of the Chosun dynasty. Dating of the excavated costume can be determined by examining the collar of the Korean coat or jacket, the shape and form of sleeve, the size of the sub, and the form of gusset. Straight, diagonal, and broad sleeves were the most commonlyused shapes of sleeve in the middle period of $17^{th}$ century. In the latter period of Chosun, the trend moved towards a single-sub.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.3 s.28
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• pp.319-331
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• 1988

The purpose of this study was to develop a computer program for pattern making of women's Dooroomaky. The following results were given through utilizing the Computer in pattern making of Dooroomaky for women. 1. Computerization of the pattern making process was expected to provide higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern making. 2. Basic pattern was drafted by the hand-operation. In this study, this Dooroomaky basic pattern was selected. And a computer program for drafting was developed. Refer to