• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1455-1466
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• 2002

This research focuses on functionalism in American fashion designs which have become the center of public attention in recent. First, documentary studies about how functionalism, which originated in Europe in the beginning of the 20th century, has been developed throughout the 20th century were preceded Second, content analysis was done for the articles, including the word ‘unction’,‘utility’ and ‘practical’in the New York Times and American Vogue from January 1990 to January 2001. As a result, functionalism in 1990s has been developed in different ways from the mechanical, organic, and mea analogies of functionalism in the beginning of 20th century. It doesn't belong to an analogy but has the fused characteristics of those three analogies. It can be classified into techno functionalism influenced by new technology, pure functionalism related to minimalism, sports casual functionalism for those who are crazy about the speed and sports and enjoy the freedom and comfort, and symbolic functionalism which stresses Zen style. More casual manners of formal wear are distinct elements in functionalist fashion design in 1990s. It leads to strong expressions of sports casual functionalism, which plays a great role in sportswear industry of American fashion design. The American fashion designers who were mentioned often in the articles were Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Ralph lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. As well as their works have common formative features based on functionalism, each of them shows his/her own strung color. A]1 of these designers make American fashion design, which can be defined as casual wear or sportswear, very popular worldwide based on the developed American functionalism. Functionalism considering practical and conceptional functions will continue in coming century and techno functionalism and sports casual functionalism in future fashion designs wilt be expressed more strongly with new technology and casual trends of life style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.155-172
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• 2002

The research has the aim of defining the special characteristics of the functionalist fashion design in the 1900s by understanding the essence of functionalism in the sociocultural contexts. Giving careful consideration to functionalist fashion design in the 1990s makes it possible to foresee the way of fashion design to meet the needs of the modems and men of the future world. To obtain the purposes, documentary study and demonstrative study with fashion photographs have been executed. Main results are as follows. Functionalism in the 1990s has been developed in different ways from the analogies in the beginning of the 20th century. It doesn't belong to an analogy but has the fused characteristics. It can be classified into techno functionalism influenced by new technology Pure functionalism related to minimalism. casual functionalism for those who are crazy about the speed and sports and enjoy the freedom and comfort and symbolic functionalism. Mechanical analogy has been developed into techno functionalism. Pure functionalism has come from the blend of mechanical and moral analogy, casual functionalism from mechanical. organic and moral analogy. and symbolic functionalism from organic and moral analogy. Since fashion design has much closer relation to human body and movements. it has been expressed considering a division of men and women and the places and times for the designs more than other designs. More casual manners of formal wear are distinct elements in functionalist fashion design in the 1990s. The 20th century general cultural phenomena including post modernism can be explained by eclectic functionalism. Functionalism considering Practical and conceptional functions ill continue and techno functionalism and casual functionalism in future fashion design will be expressed more strongly with new technology and casual trends of life style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.7 s.155
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• pp.1054-1065
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• 2006

This study aims to provide basic data conducive to developing popular and international products by analyzing the mechanism, factors and design of ethnic sports fashion incorporating ethnicity and sports sense that may satisfy the physical and psychological needs of modern humans who tend to seek 'well- being'. The methodology includes literature reviews and positivist study, and visual materials include domestic and foreign fashion magazines, newspapers, fashion journals, ad photos, collection photos, and internet that cover colors, materials, detailed sports fashion design that are considered to have an ethnic image. Its scope is limited to the period from 2000 through 2005 S/S. The results of study are as follows: First, sports fashions through incorporation of sports emotion and fashion, mixes and matches existing formal wear, casual wear, or leisure wear with sportswear, or introduces and utilizes materials, details, accessories, or image from sportswear. Second, 1) from the changes by year in sports fashion, ethnic images were strongly expressed by the influence of naturalism in the early 1990s, and functional sports fashion has been fused with ethnic image with functionalism becoming stronger and wellbeing trend expanding from the mid 1990s through 2000s. 2) The cause of ethnic image in sports fashion included hybrid, multi-culturalism, and naturalism. Third, the ethnic images revealed in the sports fashion designs of Prada, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Y3 are simple and unique based on functionality and activism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.28-44
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• 2012

The aim of this research is to examine the tendency of national tastes reflected in global SPA brands based on the theories of Gans' taste culture and Bourdieu's cultural capital. In this study, the leading global SPA brands such as H&M, ZARA, GAP and UNIQLO can be considered as a representative taste culture as well as an icon of popular culture in the $21^{st}$ century global fashion and also the aesthetic taste of each brand differentiated from their national aesthetic values based on socio-cultural backgrounds. H&M represents fashionableness, practicality and environmental friendliness based on naturalism, democratic humanism, and functional practicality of Sweden. ZARA emerges as the most trend oriented brand as well as customer centered on the basis of cultural diversity, passion and glamorous artistic sensibility of Spain. GAP shows American iconic style, which is the functional sports casual wear, originated from American leisure culture and mass production. Lastly, UNIQLO represents high-tech functionalism and practical simplicity based on Japanese delicate workmanship and simple, concise lifestyle while relatively does not much follow the fashion forward trends. Consequently, the national taste has been proved as a solid foundation to identify each global brand. This should be the key component also applied to Korean global brands for developing their concepts and strategies more successfully based on our own national aesthetic taste.