• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.1008-1019
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop an appropriate jacket pattern for elderly women over sixty years old, providing a good fit and appearance. Results were as follows: The length of the jacket was made long enough to cover the area 22.0cm below the waistline. The waist back length was made 1.7cm longer than the actual size of the waist back length. The armhole length was made 0.5cm longer than B/4, enhacing the appearance and functionality while allowing freer movement of the arms. As for the front and back interscye breadths, the front interscye breadth was made 1.7cm larger than the actual size while the back interscye breadth was only 1.0cm larger, providing the front interscye breadth more space. The bust breadth was made 10.0cm larger than the bust circumference measure(B/4+2.5cm), the waist breadth was made 6.0cm larger than the waist circumference measure(W/4+1.5cm), The hip breadth was made 12.0cm larger than the him circumference measure(H/4+3.0cm). The sleeve length was made 3.0cm larger than the arm length measure, as the sleeve length of a jacket is usually long enough to cover the ulnar styloid. The sleeve width was made 5.0cm larger than the upper arm circumference measure, as the upper arm circumference measure of the model pattern was too large than necessary, worsening the overall appearance. The sleeve cap height was set at AH/4+4.7cm. The wrist circumference of 27.0cm was set, allowing 2/3 and 1/3 for the large sleeve and small sleeve respectively.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.379-390
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to comparative analysis of required measurements, two measurements of back length and bust girth are used in Proportional Drafting Method (Munhwa). In case of Compromise Drafting Methods are used across chest, across back, bust length, bust width, full length in front, across shoulder and shoulder length in addition to back length and bust girth. The type of Armstrong as a Short Measure Drafting Method uses 10 measurements for the drafting the bodice. 2. While Esmod block pattern arid Armstrong's block pattern are the lightest in full width and other widths. Rasara block pattern is the most ample. In Lee, Myung-hee's block pattern and Lee, Hyung-sook's block pattern, amounts of drooping are decided $3{\sim}4cm$, but drooping amounts of other block patterns are decided corresponding to real measurements. While cap height in Esmod and Armstrong's sleeve patterns are directly measured Armhole length of the block pattern, cap height of other sleeve patterns are used armhole depth and cap height length as well as armhole length. 3. When analyzing to indirect measurements, Esmod block pattern shows the least different between full length of block pattern and that of body form. Munhwa block pattern and Kim, Hyosook's block pattern are mostly same to body form back length. However all of the block patterns are sheller than body form length. In case of Suh, Wansuk's block pattern, across back and across chest are same size, but other block patterns show difference between across back and across chest. Most block patterns' neck width in front and bach bodice are almost same. Front neck width is generally bigger than back neck width in some cases.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.21-32
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• 1981

Clothing must have the individual beauty and the function that one can do one's body movement freely. therefore, from the human engineering view point, the exact measurement of the human body and the analysis of it's results must be applied to clothing because the arm works most. In this study, the skin surface of arm was investigated by shell made of Alginate of each movement. And by sometic method the rate of expansion and contraction of each section, inter-relation among the bust girth, axillary arm girth and scye girth and between the shoulder length right and the under axilla waist length were calculate4d. With these results, cap height, breadth of a sleeve and arm hole girth of existing sleeve pattern have been compared and analysed. The results are as follows; 1) According to the developmental figures of shell, the whole area change was small but that of shape was remarkable in M 4, 9, 13. The change of the Block 1 was particular. 2) Over arm length was contracted in all movements except M6 and under arm length expanded. The changes of sections a, b, c are large, while those of sections d, e are small. 3) In terms of latitudes, change of fore-arm region was small. The rate of scye girth varied from 14.3% of M13 to-5.6% of M2. The breadth of a sleeve expanded in all movements, and especially the front region expanded more than the back. 4) The relation between the shoulder length right and under axilla waist length, in all occasions, was contracted mutually, and one contracted, the other expanded. Therefore, in clothing construction when we consider the function of the arm it is better to widen the arm hole and the breadth of a sleeve at the same time than no widen the shoulder length by lowering the upper part of the upper side seam line.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.249-261
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• 2004

This research proves the ROM method (Range Of Motion), which has already been used in other countries, that measures the capacity of exercise and the adaptation of movement of functional garments for special purpose due to change of the height of basic sleeve sloper. Basically, the ultimate goal of the research is to improve the functional pattern design. Firstly, this research proves the proper application of ROM that is used for the evaluation of fitting test. Therefore, according to this research, the company is able to produce the sample that is appropriate to the various purpose for women garments and betters the evaluation of function of garments. Moreover, it suggests that the evaluation of fitting test satisfies the consumers who desire to try better garments and contributes to the competitions among the companies that bring more improvements to the fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1178-1187
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to conduct a questionnaire survey on the actual conditions of the working uniform and protective equipment put on by street cleaners, then to identify their inconvenience and problems and to draw solutions to improve them, and finally to design a spring-and-autumn street cleaner uniform which has enhanced functionalities such as motional flexibility, safety and soil proof. The questionnaire survey of this study was done by street cleaners who were in charge of street cleaning and collecting the recyclable waste. The result of this study, easily worn-out parts of the working clothing were the sleeve hems and the front part on the upper uniform, and the trouser hems and zipper on the lower uniform. Easily soiled parts were the sleeve hems, parts of arm on the upper uniform, and the trouser hems and knee parts on the lower uniform. Based on the results of the questionnaire survey, the sample uniforms were designed in consideration of material, design and pattern. A soil-proof material was used for easily soiled parts such as sleeve hems, knee parts and trouser hems. Reflective material was applied to the parts such as chest, back and the side lines of sleeves and trousers to raise visibility in working and to ensure safety. A crease was given to each side of the back. The height of sleeve cap was lowered to lift the motional flexibility of back and arm parts. Darts were applied to elbow and knee parts for a three-dimensional design. Gussets were inserted in the thigh part to give it activity. Then quantitative evaluation and a sensory evaluation, which was composed of outward appearance, motional flexibility and fitness for field operation, were conducted. According to these evaluations, the sample uniform was found to be more satisfactory than current uniform.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.29-45
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• 1997

This study aims at designing sleeves which are suitable for arm shapes and arm movements. With the samples of of ordinary 24 women aged from 20 to 22, the arm shapes and movements were measured 3-dimensionally using a motion analyzer and a sonic digitizer, and then clasified into three characteristic types (A, B, and C). Our analysis leads to the following conclusion. The factors classifying arm shapes are the length from acromion to posterior armpit point, arm hole length, the cap height, difference in height between anterior and posterior armpit points, armhole circumference, upper arm circumferemce, armhole depth, and underarm circumference. The characteristics of arm type A is that the armhole depth and the length from acromion to posterior armpit point are the largest, while the circumference inbe- tween upper arm and elbow is the smallest among the three arm types. Thus, the large circumference difference between upper and lower arms is the most notable in arm type A. The factors classifying arm shapes for arm type B are the smallest except for the circumference inbetween upper arm and elbow which is larger than that for arm type A. The circumference difference betweemn upper and lower arms is small for arm type B. Arm type C has the smallest armhole depth, while other factors are similar to those for arm type B. In type C, the size of upper arm is comparatively small on the frontal plane, while it is the largest on the sagital plane.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.286-292
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern of the present flight suit, to select variables of human body and key dimensions for making pattern of the flight suit, and to decide the most appropriate size of human body and rate of ease for designing an overall flight suit. For analyzing the pattern of flight suit, we used "M95Special" (men ; chest circumference 92-97 cm ; height : above 177 cm), which was indicated as the standard of the Ministry of National Defense. We analyzed general appearance and the actual dimensions of the pattern of the flight suit. As a result of analyzing the pattern, flight suit was front-opened overall style which had a flat collar with rounded edges, two-pieced sleeves with lower height of the sleeve's cap, 3cm-width belt on the waist and 8 pockets. To decide the most appropriate size of human body, we selected 20 variables of human body in the 359 variables of the Size Korea by referring the previous studies. The 20 variables of human body were 9 circumferences (chest, waist, hip, neck, armscye, wrist, thigh, knee, and ankle), 9 lengths (stature, back interscye fold, waist back, crotch height, crotch, body rise, arm, outside leg and total), and 2 breadths (biacromial and chest). We drew out the size of 20 variables from the Size Korea and US Army anthropometry data and decided the most appropriate values from the drawn data for applying to the pattern of flight suit.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.10
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• pp.177-189
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop a suitable jacket pattern for elderly women. The subjects were two women of the ages of 65-70, who had different bust size. To reflect the ready made pattern drafting systems, 4 industrial patterns were selected. After analyzing the problems of these patterns, a new jacket pattern was proposed. The results were as follows : 1) The amount of appropriate ease in fitted jacket for elderly women was about 10cm at the bust circumference, 10∼12cm at the hip circumference and the height of sleeve cap was AH/3+0.5cm. 2) Considering an enlargement of waist and abdomen, difference between front and back size was 2cm on the bust line, 6-8cm on the waist and hip line. 3) Because of the shape of concavity of back-waist, center back line in the pattern was folded by 0.5cm from center back waist toward side seam for manipulation. 4) The new jacket pattern was compared with the existing pattern through the wearing test by sensory evaluation. It showed that the fit and comfort of experimental pattern was superior to those of the existing pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.9
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• pp.1049-1059
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• 2011

This study investigates the current state of companies that manufacture and sell outdoor wear. A survey was conducted to identify what problems they had and what aspects they needed to supplement through a comparison and analysis of their block patterns. Companies that manufactured outdoor wear and those that sold them were separately surveyed to understand their current state. The manufactures included 4 companies and 14 sellers. The survey used interviews to cover the areas of target consumers, development patterns, production lines, body size, nominal size, production size, and functional materials for each item, and aspects that need improvement. The survey period was from September $3^{rd}$ to $10^{th}$ 2008. There were three block patterns for jackets, T-shirts, and pants. The investigator collected the patterns used by three outdoor clothing manu-facturers for comparison and assessment. As a result, the mean age of the target consumers set by the outdoor clothing manufacturers and sellers was 25.3-50.7 and 29.2-42.5, respectively, which shows that the outdoor clothing had a wider distribution of target consumers than the sellers. It is imperative for them to segment and differentiate the target consumers and concepts. The basic body measurements the companies used to draw the upper and lower garment patterns were the bust circumference for the upper garment patterns and the waist circumference for the lower garment patterns. The basic nominal size was 95 for the upper garment and 70 for the lower garment. Also analyzed were the block patterns according to the items to understand the pattern characteristics of each of the companies. There were a total of 35, 36, and 30 items for the jackets, T-shirts, and pants, respectively, to measure size. The items were then compared with one another in mean and standard deviation. The analysis indicate that the block patterns were not fit for women in their twenties or thirties to wear and required revisions in the length of the upper garment, the height of sleeve cap, bust circumference, hip length, and pant length.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.209-224
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of shirt patterns in the men's wear market that have been constantly developing, and to analyze the fitness and appearance through the 3D virtual try-on system. The study selected three industrial patterns and two educational materials of classic-fit and slim-fit shirts for a total of ten items. The experiments involved virtual wearing, a stress contact point perspective map, and appearance evaluations. First, the ease differed significantly in the chest, waist, and sleeve cap height according to the patterns. Second, based on the stress, contact point, and transparency, there was ease in the order of Nam, D-brand, J-brand, Park, and S-brand in the classic-fit shirts while the order of D-brand, Nam, J-brand, Park, and S-brand resulted in the slim-fit shirts. Third, in the appearance evaluation, higher points resulted in the order of J-brand, Park, S-brand, D-brand, and Nam in both classic-fit and slim-fit. The results showed that proper ease differs greatly by shirt-fit and target age. Also, the shirts with more ease tended to be evaluated less favorably in the appearance evaluation. Based on the results, the study suggests that the proper ease in chest circumference is 18cm for the classic-fit shirts and 6 cm for the slim-fit shirts.