• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.137-147
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• 2010

This study set out to make experimental clothes by giving variations to the connecting part of a seamless sweater, propose designs and composition approaches to improve the wearing sensation and satisfaction with appearance through wearing trials, and provide basic data that would be of practical help to follow-up study on seamless knit and the growth of seamless knit in the Korean knit industry. The connecting part is the biggest characteristic and the most important part in seamless knitwear and affect the functionality and fitness of the clothes and the appearance of the armhole. The investigator thus made five different pieces of experimental clothes according to the composition methods for connecting part and put them to the test by a group of experts for appearance assessment. The assessment results were analyzed through Analysis of variance(ANOVA), and the items with similar results were put to the Duncan test for intergroup comparison. According to the analysis results, experimental clothes C and E received the highest evaluation in almost every assessment item, whereas experimental clothes A did the lowest appearance evaluation.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.57-71
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• 2021

The purpose of the study is to derive an appropriate knitting method that can increase the appearance, wearability, and functionality through empirical research on the sleeve height knitting ratio of seamless knit wear. The study was conducted by producing seven types of experiment clothes according to knitting ratio to examine the characteristics according to the body armhole and sleeve height ratio. Specifically, after fit evaluatins, variance analysis (ANOVA) was performed to analyze the results of the evaluation, and the evaluated contents were converted into data. Among them, the items with significant results were intensively studied using the Duncan-test. The result showed that the height and the width of the sleeves vary depending on the knitting ratio. Test sweater A was the highest at 16cm, followed by test sweater B, test sweater C, test sweater D, test sweater E, test sweater F, and test sweater G at 4cm. The 1:1 ratio of test sweater A, was the highest, which is knitted in the same course as the body. The larger the difference in the ratio of body and sleeve, the lower the height of the sleeves. As a result of the appearance sensory evaluation, a significant difference was confirmed in the result values (p<0.001) from all items on the front, side, and rear. Specifically, the appearance of the test sweater B(2:4:2) on the front and test sweater C(2:4:3) on the side and rear side was the best. When the sleeves height is properly set, the ratio of the arm line to fit the design with a natural curve is analyzed as a very important factor. The results of this study are expected to be of practical use in product development and production that can increase the feeling when wearing and design satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.365-381
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• 2016

This study compared and analyzed current sleeve head products for men and women to develop sleeve head products for aesthetically-designed sleeves. Men and women's sleeve head products, suitable for sleeve caps, were designed and developed based on the results. The study results are as follows. First, men and women's sleeve heads for aesthetic jacket sleeves were designed with sleeve patterns in the background. Sleeve heads and upper sleeves were additionally designed to make 7-layers for men and 4-layers for women. Second, sleeve head patterns were designed so that men's would have a whole length of 48cm, an angle of $30^{\circ}$ and a width of 4.5-7.5cm; in addition, women's would be 40cm, $30^{\circ}$ and 4-5cm. Third, the same materials were used for men's and women's sleeve head products, and the background was made from 1-layer of soft non-woven fabric. As for the sleeve heads, 2-layers and 1-layer of non-fusible interlinings were used for men's and women's, respectively. In order to provide flexibility, the materials were designed in a bias direction. For upper sleeves, 1-layer of non-woven fabric and felt were used for men's, and 1-layer of felt for women's so that an empty space caused by easing contraction can be supplemented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2000

This study was intended to find body pattern of middle aged women and make new experimental basic pattern for upper-half of the body for them. This experimental pattern on the idea of body pattern analysis was prepared. For experimental pattern, the prototype basic model was chosen with the best qualified D model from the four meaningful existing patterns. After several steps of correction experimental pattern was made. Comparing with basic D model, the new experimental pattern composed of additional bust girth by 1cm, wider back waist by 0.5cm than front waist and additional armhole by 0.5cm keeping the same size for back and front widths. Making a shoulder line up by 3cm the armhole became deeper accordingly and the room for girth has been transferred to length. Front neck girth became deeper downward but back neck girth risen a little bit. Side line of the bodice formed with inward slope taking from the waist line by 2cm. Instead of dart, modified side line slope was more practical by its function and appearance. Abdominal girth which is lower than waist girth by 8.5cm kept in same size with bust girth. Then abdominal girth became more comfortable. New experimental pattern with changes has been examined in function and appearance. In conclusion, the new experimental basic pattern for the middle-aged women has been proved more practical for both in bodice and sleeve than other existing ones in terms of function and appearance.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.113-125
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• 2021

This study aimed to develop a new Hanbok Jeogori prototype based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Jeogori. This study was conducted based on K-patterns selected as excellent patterns in prior research and utilized the SPSS 27.0 program for analysis of appearance evaluation. As a result of the first appearance evaluation and garment pressure evaluation, the shoulder area was required to be modified, so the shoulder end point was moved within 1cm to rearrange the armhole line. Modification of sleeve length and circumference was also required, reducing sleeve length by 1.5cm and sleeve circumference by 0.5cm at both ends. As a result of the second evaluation, the length of Jeogori, hem circumference, and sleeve length were required, reducing the length of the front and back Jeogori by 1 cm and reducing the sleeve length by 1cm. The hem circumference was reduced by 0.2cm each in the princess line, which was highly evaluated in the final evaluation. In future research, it is thought that pattern studies by material, length, and age should be conducted and corrections should be derived through actual wear experiments.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.224-236
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• 2017

Kimono sleeves have continuously appeared in modern fashion as a design motif and this trend has become increasingly prevalent recently. However for research in the area of clothing composition for kimono sleeves in Korea, there has been a lack of development of master patterns based on basic data from the analysis of the standard body type of Korean people and finalized designs based on comparative experiments and analysis of pre-existing research Thus, there is no ideal master kimono sleeve pattern development research based on the examination of the results of the analysis of the standard body type of Korean people. Therefore by recognizing the importance of developing a master kimono sleeve pattern, this research aims to present a practical master kimono sleeve pattern for the standard body type of someone in their 30s. First, the four master patterns were collected and a dressing evaluation was conducted, and by selecting and improving one of these master designs, a final research master pattern was developed after a second dressing evaluation. Through this research, it was possible to design a master kimono sleeve pattern appropriate both externally and functionally for the standard body type of someone in their 30s, which has not been a consideration in previous research.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to provide a blouse pattern of high school girls' uniform for production of good silhouette and fitness blouse as well as functionality. In this study, we compared blouse patterns of high school girls' uniform made in the three brands of higher market share being compared. The blouse was the most common design of high school girls' uniforms being sold. In addition, we compared characteristics of appearance and functionality of blouse patterns by the wearing test. Based on the results of pattern comparison and wearing test of the blouses, the new blouse pattern for high school girls' uniform was developed. The results of the wearing test for appearance showed that the developed blouse obtained statistically higher ratings than the existing brands in almost items. The results of the wearing test for functionality of the developed blouse showed that items related with sleeve cap were evaluated a rating below 3. In order to improve functionality, the developed blouse pattern was changed that the sleeve cap was lowered by 0.5cm and the sleeve breadth increased by 1cm. The drafting of the new blouse pattern was developed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.3 s.62
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• pp.404-417
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• 2006

The purpose of this thesis, therefore, is to examine the shaping methods and the knitting drafts of sleeve cap in the knitwears which are currently used by the manufacturers; to study the curve forms of sleeves in knitwears by analyzing synthetically the results of investigating the problems of knit wear sleeves; to present the most suitable sleeve cap for the knitwears. As the studying methods, I collected the basic data from the working-level persons of knit wear manufacturers, examined the knitting draft in the knitwears, and from that, made three kinds of comparative experimental garments and one kind of research experimental one as 10G and 16G. In doing so, I showed the sleeve cap suitable for the knitwears with plain stitch after operating sensual evaluation with Liker's 5-point rating measure. The analysis of data was handled with statistics by using SPSS Ver. 12.0; the method of statistics was executed by Frequency Analysis, Trust Analysis, one-way ANOVA, and Duncan test according to each topic of the research. As the result of the sensual evaluation of the experimental garments produced from the study, the research experimental garment looks better than the comparative experimental one in both 10G and l6G; has less extra folds around the front part of sleeve cap; looks more natural in sleeve caps of the body part and of a sleeve. From this, I am able to figure out that the research experimental garment looks better than the comparative experimental one produced by knit wear manufacturers. In addition, I can come to know that the different knitting of the front line and the back one of armhole in the knitwears has a favorable impact on improving the appearance of a sleeve.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1535-1545
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• 2005

The study aimed firstly, to develop the women's bodysuit sleeve block construction method adopting the appropriate pattern reduction rates according to the fabric stretch property. Secondly, the details applied to the bodysuit sleeve block drafting (Dr the educational and industrial usage were proposed. For these, several distinguishing bodysuit sleeve pattern making methods(i.e. Joseph-Armstrong: T1, Shoben & Ward: T2, Esmod: T3 and Mixed Joseph-Armstrong: T4) were analyzed and divided into two categories that adopt 1) the equally (i.e., T1) and 2) the differently(i.e., T2, T3 & T4) distributed front and back armhole length measurements. Women's sleeve samples were made for the research using the same stretch fabric($50\%\;and\; 70\%$ in wale and course each) to the previous research. A group comprising 5 relevant experts evaluated the fit and comfort features of the samples. Experiments analyzed the appearance of sleeve samples focused on total 13 evaluation parts(including the front/side/back fit tolerance, sleeve centre line, sleeve length, appropriateness of the sleeve appearance balanced with the bodysuit and etc.): and performed the comfort test evaluating three kinds(vertical-front/vertical-side/ horizontal) of arm movements. The most appropriate bodysuit sleeve to fulfil the original aims of the study was suggested. The findings and suggestions throughout the study were: 1) the measurements and required reduction rates for the bodysuit sleeve block developed: outer sleeve length (with 1.0 RR), crown height(with 0.7 RR), front and back armhole lengths measured on the bodysuit blocks ($0\%$ ease amount), elbow width(0.9/0.95 RR), wrist girth measurements(from $12\%\;to\;18\%$ tolerances can be given to): and 2) the differently distributed front and back armhole length measurements resulted in the better fit and comfort through the research.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.125-137
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• 2021

This study was intended to develop a prototype of new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece. Through this, it was intended to provide information on patterns that are fundamental to the production of new Hanbok Cheollik one piece. The pattern of the experiment was produced by modifying D pattern, which was selected as excellent in the comparison of commercial Cheollik one-piece patterns. The SPSS 26.0 program was used to analyze the appearance evaluation of patterns. As a result of the 1^st evaluation of appearance and garment pressure, the shoulder, sleeve length, skirt length and sleeve width required modification, reducing the sleeve length by 8.0cm and the sleeve width by 1.0cm in total. The length of the skirt was reduced by 5.0cm and the shoulder end point was reduced by 0.5cm on both sides to modify the shoulder width. As a result of the 2^nd evaluation, the waist area, sleeve width, and skirt wrinkles were required to be corrected, reducing 2.0 cm waist width and 1.0 cm sleeve width and removing wrinkles on the front center and side area. The final pattern was highly appreciated. In future studies, it is thought that research should be conducted through study of Cheollik one-piece pattern according to material and age and the actual wearing experiment according to fabric and age.