• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.101-114
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• 2007

This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.21-32
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• 1981

Clothing must have the individual beauty and the function that one can do one's body movement freely. therefore, from the human engineering view point, the exact measurement of the human body and the analysis of it's results must be applied to clothing because the arm works most. In this study, the skin surface of arm was investigated by shell made of Alginate of each movement. And by sometic method the rate of expansion and contraction of each section, inter-relation among the bust girth, axillary arm girth and scye girth and between the shoulder length right and the under axilla waist length were calculate4d. With these results, cap height, breadth of a sleeve and arm hole girth of existing sleeve pattern have been compared and analysed. The results are as follows; 1) According to the developmental figures of shell, the whole area change was small but that of shape was remarkable in M 4, 9, 13. The change of the Block 1 was particular. 2) Over arm length was contracted in all movements except M6 and under arm length expanded. The changes of sections a, b, c are large, while those of sections d, e are small. 3) In terms of latitudes, change of fore-arm region was small. The rate of scye girth varied from 14.3% of M13 to-5.6% of M2. The breadth of a sleeve expanded in all movements, and especially the front region expanded more than the back. 4) The relation between the shoulder length right and under axilla waist length, in all occasions, was contracted mutually, and one contracted, the other expanded. Therefore, in clothing construction when we consider the function of the arm it is better to widen the arm hole and the breadth of a sleeve at the same time than no widen the shoulder length by lowering the upper part of the upper side seam line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1535-1545
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• 2005

The study aimed firstly, to develop the women's bodysuit sleeve block construction method adopting the appropriate pattern reduction rates according to the fabric stretch property. Secondly, the details applied to the bodysuit sleeve block drafting (Dr the educational and industrial usage were proposed. For these, several distinguishing bodysuit sleeve pattern making methods(i.e. Joseph-Armstrong: T1, Shoben & Ward: T2, Esmod: T3 and Mixed Joseph-Armstrong: T4) were analyzed and divided into two categories that adopt 1) the equally (i.e., T1) and 2) the differently(i.e., T2, T3 & T4) distributed front and back armhole length measurements. Women's sleeve samples were made for the research using the same stretch fabric($50\%\;and\; 70\%$ in wale and course each) to the previous research. A group comprising 5 relevant experts evaluated the fit and comfort features of the samples. Experiments analyzed the appearance of sleeve samples focused on total 13 evaluation parts(including the front/side/back fit tolerance, sleeve centre line, sleeve length, appropriateness of the sleeve appearance balanced with the bodysuit and etc.): and performed the comfort test evaluating three kinds(vertical-front/vertical-side/ horizontal) of arm movements. The most appropriate bodysuit sleeve to fulfil the original aims of the study was suggested. The findings and suggestions throughout the study were: 1) the measurements and required reduction rates for the bodysuit sleeve block developed: outer sleeve length (with 1.0 RR), crown height(with 0.7 RR), front and back armhole lengths measured on the bodysuit blocks ($0\%$ ease amount), elbow width(0.9/0.95 RR), wrist girth measurements(from $12\%\;to\;18\%$ tolerances can be given to): and 2) the differently distributed front and back armhole length measurements resulted in the better fit and comfort through the research.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 1980

When we design a dress, we should not only consider the esthetic sense and the relationship between movements of the body and the type of dress, but also the combination between the qualities and proper uses of textiles. recently the sale of ready-made clothes has been booming but I wonder whether they have been made in accordance with research concerning body movements and dresses. I would like to make the following observations on dresses, because I have personally suffered the inconvenience of restricted arm movements when wearing ready-made clothes. I have made four types types of foundations with muslin and Jersey, with these foundations I measured the degree of tension or how much the waist-line was drawn up then the arm was moved in increments of 45 degree angles and there by covering the entire span of vertical and horizontal movements. I have intended to experiment with sleeves of differing height in several ways. Concerning the movement factor, I have determined that with excessive activity vertical movements are twice as uncomfortable as horizontal movements. Concerning the faburic, I have found that because jersey has more elastic qualities than muslin, it has proven to be more responsive to body movements. concerning dresses, I have fund that the higher the height of the sleeves, the more uncomfortable it is to move the arms and the greater the degree to which the waist-line is drawn up. As a result this experiment I have made the following observations. Firstly, the vertical movement of the arms to a 180 degree angle has the most extreme influence on the breadth of movement of the waist-line. Secondly, because jersey permits freer body movements than muslin, it should be the preferred material for use in making sportswear. Thirdly, the formula A·H/4+3 of the sleev's cap height is suitable for making street dresses and formal wear. The formula A·H/5 and A·H/6 are properly used when making working clothes and sportswear, and the formula A·H/8 is proper for a sleeping garment and clothes for patients. Fourthly when deciding to any garments, it is important to consider the amount of arm movement anticipated and the relationship between the material and the degree to which the waistline is drawn up. In nder-blouse, when we raise our arms to the most extreme position, we should at that point still have 20∼25 cm of material remaining under the waist-line which includes the maximum of 14.1cm plus part of the blouse and breath of skirt's belt. In the case of the over blouse it is proper for us to have the length of 17∼20 cm remaining below the waist-line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.67-85
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• 2010

School uniform has improved greatly in terms of fit, size, function, and design due to steep competition in the market and the strong interest of researcher, while little effort has been made for physical training uniform, so the objective of this study is to provide basic research data of the training uniform for the improvement of its design and fitness. For this purpose, 327 high school girls provided information on size and design of their uniform, level of satisfaction, the recognized ease in uniform. Most students wore the physical training uniform in another classes and the long sleeved shirt were the most popular one. They often used the uniform for the protection from cold and for comfortable activeness. For a long sleeved shirt, most students preferred raglan sleeve, zip-up collar, straight waist line, and ribbed sleeve cuffs and hem. For long pants, students preferred elastic waist band and ribbed pants cuffs. Currently, the short-sleeved shirt mostly had a shirts collar, ribbed hem, straight waist line with raglan sleeve, but students wanted a round neck and set-in sleeve. For overall level of satisfaction, students showed high satisfaction in terms of function and psychological effect, while aesthetic quality of the uniform was needed to be much improved. Most students evaluated that the circumference of uniforms properly fit or had a little ease, and students considered waist size the most suitable. The long pants length evaluated properly fit or a little long. Students accepted that the ease of summer uniform was more suitable than winter uniform's both at circumference and at length. Depending on students' height distribution, the length of long pants and short pants varied significantly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.3
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.4 s.36
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• pp.274-280
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• 1990

This paper is intended to grasp the characteristics of many bodices patterns which have been shown so far. The way is by selecting four characteristic kinds of patterns, making blouses offer the patterns and measuring ease. In measuring the degree of ease, $Scheff\`{e}'s$ paired comparison is made use of. In analysis, variation ratio has come out of analysis of variance, and significance is tested by producing estimated values between patterns. The Result is summed up as follows. 1. After wearing blouses made ofter different basic patterns and measuring ease, the analysis of variance is made about the sensory value of ease. The result is as follows. 1) In the ease of different patterns, all the areas are significant at the level of $1\%$ , regard- less of movements. 2) Under the influence of movements, the back area of arm hole is significant at the level of $5\%$ in narrow movements, and the front and the back area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 3) In the interaction of patterns and movements, bust and the under area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in narrow movements, and bust is significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 2. When comparing estimated values between patterns, the value of c is the largest and in the order of b,4, a. And in the other movements, the order changes into c,d, b and a. Thus the ease of blouses is different according to patterns. The reason for this is that the amount of ease of bust, the amount and location of darts, and sleeve cap height have complicate influences on the ease of blouses. Both sleeve cap height and the depth of arm hole have influences on the ease of sleeve. Consequently, in making clothes, it would be better to select and use proper patterns which go with the purposes and desings of clothes rather than to apply one pattern to various clothes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.655-659
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the somatotype variation & satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear for American women. For this study, questionnaires were administered to 192 American women in Louisiana State areas. Employing a sample of 127 data were analyzed by using F-test. The results were as follows: In the satisfaction with the somatotype variation of American women, height items were increased and width items were decreased with aging. At neck, bust, waist, hip and sleeve circumferences, in the satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear, were decreased with aging, Correlation for somatotype variation & satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear was significantly positive. With aging, the satisfaction with the somatotype & fit of American women's ready-to-wear for sizing system was generally decreased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.87-104
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• 2000

The women's apparel sizing system, currently used in the Korean industry, does not reflect measurement differences associated with varying body types and age. Forty five body meaqsurements were taken on 560 subjects, whoes eages ranged from 18-24. STatistical analysis of the data was coducted by using frequences, crosstables, correlation, oneway ANOVA, Regressio analysis. The results of this study were as follow. 1. Average height of women in their early 20's is 160cm, average bust girth 82cm, average hip girth 90cm and average drop 809. The correlation between height and grth items were low and the correlation of length items in the superior and inferior body were shown to bo high respectively. 2. The average Rhrer index is 1.28 and they ussually seem to be in the thin and standard body group. 3. body types were divided by differences between hip and bust sizes. N type(medium hip), A type (large hip), H type(small hip). A classification by body type showed that N type made up 58% while a type made up 24%. 4. The garment sizes for women in their early 20's were developed. 5. The new basic blocks and garment sizes for women in their early 20's were developed as follows : Bust girth (1/2) = 76N, 76A, 79A type($\frac{1}{2}$B+ 4cm) 79N type($\frac{1}{2}$B+ 3.5cm) 82N, 85N type ($\frac{1}{2}$B +3cm) Hip girth($\frac{1}{2}$) =N type($\frac{1}{2}$H + 2~2.5cm) Atype($\frac{1}{2}$H +1.5~2cm) Waist girth($\frac{1}{2}$)=$\frac{1}{2}$W + 2-3cm Back length =extimated measure -0.5cm Front length=76A, N (Back length + 2.2cm) 79A, N(back length +2.7cm) 82N(Back length +3.2cm) 85N(Back length + 3.7cm) Sleeve length=Sleeve length +3cm.