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A Study on the Changes of the Form of costume related to the recognition of the beauty of the body -from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume- (인체미 인식과 복식형태의 변천 - 선사~청대까지 중국 여성복식을 중심으로-)

  • 김민지
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.32
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    • pp.225-242
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    • 1997
  • This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.

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Oxygen Toxicity of Superoxide Dismutase-Deficient Saccharomyces cerevisiae by Paraquat (Paraquat에 의해 유도된 Superoxide Dismutase 결핍 효모의 산소 독성)

  • 김지면;남두현용철순허근
    • KSBB Journal
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    • v.10 no.5
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    • pp.561-567
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    • 1995
  • Using superoxide dismutase (SOD)-deficient mutants of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, the oxygen toxicity induced by paraquat was studied. In aerobic culture condition, yeasts lacking MnSOD (milochondrial SOD) showed more significant growth retardation than CuZnSOD (cytoplasmic SOD)-deficient yeasts. However, not so big differences in growth pattern of those mutants compared with wild type were observed under anaerobic condition. When exposed to paraquat, the growth of yeasts lacking CuZnSOD was severely affected by higher than 0.01mM of paraquat in culture medium. By the analysis of several cellular components ivolved in free radical generating and scavenging system, it was found that, under aerobic condition, the content of lipid peroxides in cell membrane as well as cellular activity of glutathion peroxidase of CuZnSOD-deficient mutants was increased in the presence of paraquat, although significant decrease of catalase activity was observed in those stratns. In MnSOD-deficient yeast, however, increment in cellular activity of glutathion peroxldase and catalase by paraquat was observed without any deterioration of membrane lipid. It implies that the lack of mitochondrial SOD could be compensated by both of glutathion peroxldase and catalase, but that only glutathion peroxidase might act for CuZnSOD in cytoplasm. In contrast, all of SOD-deficient mutants showed a significant decrease in catalase activity, but slight increase in the activities of glutathion peroxidase, when cultivated anaerobically in the medium containing paraquat. Nevertheless, any significant changes of lipid peroxides in cell membranes were not observed during anaerobic cultivation of SOD-deficient mutants. It suggests that a little amount of free radicals generated by paraquat under anaerobic condition could be sufficiently overcome by glutathion peroxidase but not by catalase.

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A study on the origination and Transmission of Yu in Northeast Asia. -from the 4th Century to the 8th Century- (동북(東北)아시아 유의 기원(起源)과 그 교류(交流)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) -$4{\sim}8$세기(世紀)를 중심(中心)으로-)

  • Cho, Sun-Hee;Park, Kyung-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.17
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    • pp.29-43
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    • 1991
  • Yu was a type of dress worn on the upper part of the body which was commonly used in Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of courtesy as well as protecting cold. It was believed that Yu in Northeast Asia, which was called Kaftan, was came from Scythai lived in North Eurasian land around the Black sea. Scythians were the first-formed horse-riding race in the world and their civilization influenced those of far Asiatic sector along the steppe route. As their power expanded, their costume culture transmitted to the East(China, Korea, Japan). The upper garment, Yu, was characterized by the left-sided collars, narrow sleeves belted at the waist to the length of the hip line and the tight trouser on the lower part, which we commonly called HoBok(胡服) style. 1. Yu in Northeast Asia was originated from the Eurasians, Scythian Culture. Being exchanged, active style costumes were widely used among Chinese, Koreans and Japanese throughout centuries' including $4{\sim}8$ century. 2. Chinese Yu had a style of wide-sleeves and right-sided collars. The traditional costumes of Han race are consisted of wide-sleeved Yu on the upper and long-skirt on the lower part of the body. Before the adoptation of HoBok during reign of King Jo Mooryung in 307. B.C., HoBok style had already found in the remains since the Sang period. There were various names among Yu during the Han period. Seup, Sean Eui, Kye, Kyu were one of the styles and several names were meant for collar and sleeves. During $4{\sim}8$ centuries, clothes of right-sided collar were found, superior to that of left-sided and narrow sleeves were widely used both the royal and the humble. Various styles of decoration were seen in Yu around neck, back and sleeves comparing other nations. 3. Yu, in Korea, was typical style of Northern-bound HoBok. Both men and women had similarity in Yu style, narrow sleeves, left-sided collar, belted at the waist and to the length of hip line. Influenced by Han race, in the $4th{\sim}8th$ centuries, dual system of collar was found. But we cannot see major change in Yu and finally was connected to the present. 4. The original design of the Japanese costumes was not similar to that of Northern nomadic hunting race, which was suitable for horse-riding activities. Owing to the climates along the island, we could see various conditions ranging from the cold and to the warm. Influenced by the climates, pulling over the neck(Pancho style) were major design in Japan. As Korea was advanced earlier than Japan, Korean landed Japanese territory showing clothes. So primitive costumes had changes in style. During the $4th{\sim}8th$ period. The Korean mode was found in Haniwa (which was built to make sacrifices to the dead King) and costumes in Jeong Chang Won. Among the costumes in Jeong Chang Won, we put 3 or more costumes to the category of Yu characterizing elements of Korea and Tang period. From the $4th{\sim}8th$ century, China, Korea, Japan fell into the same cultural category, Scythai. Styles in Yu among three nations, we saw little differences, basically along times. Originated from the West Asia, Yu was transmitted to the far East changing Chinese costumes, Koreans melted it into the traditional elements and then influenced Japan.

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Attitudes of Physician, Nurse and Patient towards Physician's and Nurse's Uniform (의사와 간호사의 복장에 대한 의사, 간호사 및 환자의 견해)

  • Jung, Youn-Heui;Kim, Seok-Beam;Kang, Pock-Soo
    • Journal of Yeungnam Medical Science
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.324-346
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    • 1996
  • A survey was conducted to study attitudes of physician, nurse and patient towards physician's and nurse's uniform, from March 1 to March 31, 1996. The study population was 130 physicians and 147 nurses engaged in Yeungnam University Medical Center and 211 inpatients of Yeungnam University Medical Center. A questionnaire method was used to collect data. The following are summaries of findings: In the respect of physician's uniform, both physicians and nurses preferred other type of gown to the traditional coat-typed one and especially, nurses preferred more than physicians. Patients showed no difference in the preference of the traditional one and other form of gown as a whole but those who had higher educational level preferred other form of gown(p<0.01). Regarding the color of physician's gown, 73.6% of physicians and nurses liked white color, and 86.3% of the patients also liked the white color. Male physicians preferred the white color more than female physicians and nurses(p<0.01). Patients showed no meaningful difference for the color. The opinion of insisting on wearing a necktie when physician see patients was given by male physicians, physicians of fifty or more, physicians working in the field of medicine and professors, which showed significantly higher percentage than other groups(p<0.01). In the group of patiens, the same opinion was given by female, the group of sixty or more, the group of elementary school graduates or less and people residing in other cities and counties more than male, the group of other ages, the group of having higher educational level and people of Taegu city(p<0.01). It tended to agree wearing casual wear of physician during the working time of weekend and holiday as a whole. Younger physicians showed significantly higher preference for it(p<0.05). Regarding the nurse's uniform, both physicians and nurses preferred trousers, and 96% of the nurses did. Especially, nurses who were forty years old or more and who served at outpatient department and administrative and aid parts expressed 100 percent partiality to trousers. For the patients, those who had lower educational level preferred skirt and those who had higher educational level preferred trousers. As to the color of nurse's gown, 46.7% of the physicians and nurses liked white color. The physicians preferred white and nurses preferred other color(p<0.01). Of the patients, 79.1% liked white color. Regarding the wearing cap, 95.9% of the nurses replied it didn't have to wear the cap. The nurses who were fifty or more and who served at outpatient department and special parts gave whole answers of not having to wear the cap. On the other hand, 77.7% of the patients answered nurse had to wear the cap. From the above findings, it would be advisable to give a change to the forms and colors of the gowns to match with the trend and sense of the time instead of insisting on the traditional typical ones.

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Environmental effects from Natural Waters Contaminated with Acid Mine Drainage in the Abandoned Backun Mine Area (백운 폐광산의 방치된 폐석으로 인한 주변 수계의 환경적 영향)

  • 전서령;정재일;김대현
    • Economic and Environmental Geology
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    • v.35 no.4
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    • pp.325-337
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    • 2002
  • We examined the contamination of stream water and stream sediments by heavy metal elements with respect to distance from the abandoned Backun Au-Ag-Cu mine. High contents of heavy metals (Pb, Zn, Cu, Cd, Mn, and Fe) and aluminum in the waters connected with mining and associated deposits (dumps, tailings) reduce water quality. In the mining area, Ca and SO$_4$ are predominant cation and anion. The mining water is Ca-SO$_4$ type and is enriched in heavy metals resulted from the weathering of sulfide minerals. This mine drainage water is weakly acid or neutral (pH; 6.5-7.1) because of neutralizing effect by other alkali and alkaline earth elements. The effluent from the mine adit is also weakly acid or neutral, and contains elevated concentrations of most elements due to reactions with ore and gangue minerals in the deposit. The concentration of ions in the Backun mining water is high in the mine adit drainage water and steeply decreased award to down stream. Buffering process can be reasonably considered as a partial natural control of pollution, since the ion concentration becomes lower and the pH value becomes neutralized. In order to evaluate mobility and bioavailability of metals, sequential extraction was used for stream sediments into five operationally defined groups: exchangeable, bound to carbonates, bound to FeMn oxide, bound to organic matter, and residual. The residual fraction was the most abundant pool for Cu(2l-92%), Zn(28-89%) and Pb(23-94%). Almost sediments are low concentrated with Cd(2.7-52.8 mg/kg) than any other elements. But Cd dominate with non stable fraction (68-97%). Upper stream sediments are contaminated with Pb, and down area sediments are enriched with Zn. It is indicate high mobility of Zn and Cd.

Analysis of Lower Somatotype on Adult Women and Appearance Analysis of Flare Skirts by using the Image Processing (성인 여성의 하반신 체형분석과 염상처리를 이용한 플레어 스커트의 외관분석)

  • Lee, Soo-Jung;Hong, Jeong-Min
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.1 no.3
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    • pp.252-258
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    • 1999
  • The aims of this study is to classify the lower somatotype of adult women and appearance analysis on the shape of flare skirts by using the image processing. Also We have made skirts in order to analyze the various types of appearance of flare skirts by using the image processing. The subjects for our wear test lower somatotype, who were controlled in their waist, abdomen and hip shapes. The flare skirts used for wear test were 112 types(combinated 14 fabric type and 8 lower somatotype). The effect of lower somatotype on the shape of flare skirts was determined by the horizontally hem line section shape and the silhouette of flare skirts with image processing. The data were analyzed by using analysis of variance and Turkey, Duncan multiple range test. The results obtained are summarized as follows: It is shown that the fabric weight elongation differs in fabrics properties, in direction of textures. The shape horizontal section of flare skirt hem line has differed with the number of nodes, wave-height of nodes and breadth of silhouette by fabrics properties and lower somatotype. It is noticed that the breadth of flare skirts by the silhouette has high correlation with the drape ability of fabrics and lower somatotype. Results for our flare skirts show changes in amplitude and mean with fabrics, somatotype. Therefore we can say that gray-level histograms are correlated with changes in appearance, differences in drape spacing and related fabric properties and their somatotype.

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