• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.281-289
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• 1993

Concept of the comfort and fitness becomes a major concern in the basic function of the ready-made clothes. Accordingly a more sophiscated classification of the human morphological characteristics is strongly required for the effective clothing construction. This research was performed to classify and characterize Korean adult males anthropometrically. Sample size was 1290 subjects and their age range was from 19 to 54 years old. Sampling was carried out by the stratified sampling method. Data were collected by the direct anthropometric measurement. 75 variables in total were applied to classify the bodytypes. Data were analyzed by the multivariate method, especially factor and cluster analysis. The high factor loading items extracted by factor analysis were based to determine the variables of the cluster analysis for the similar bodytypes respectively. In the part of the trunk, 19 variables from the data were applied to classify the bodytypes of trunk by Ward's minimum variance method. The groups forming a cluster were subdivided into 5 sets by cross-tabulation extracted by the hierarchical culster analysis. Type 3 and 4 in trunk were composed of the majority of 55.6% of the subjects. The Korean adult males had relatively well-balanced bodytypes in trunk.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.117-128
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• 2012

This study compares the net effect of wearing different shoulder/arm armor systems on garment impediment perception and wearer acceptability. Two independent variables in this study were armor systems and shoulder/ arm movements. There were four armor systems of control garment and arm armor systems A, B, and C as well as five types of arm/shoulder movements, (shoulder flexion, should extension, shoulder abduction, shoulder horizontal flexion, and shoulder horizontal extension). Ten male volunteers wearing size medium battle dress uniform (BDU) with recent relevant military experience participated in this study. The volunteers performed shoulder/arm movements (while wearing each armor treatments) and completed the garment impediment perception as well as wearer acceptability scales. The body areas of neck side, shoulder top, and armscye front showed the highest frequency of reported impediments. Resistance to movement and localized pressure were the most frequently mentioned types of impediment. The armor system B had the most areas of impediment, and was rated as more restrictive than the control garment and armor system A for each movement. For wearer acceptability, no significant differences were found between the control garment and armor system A for all eight items; this indicated that subjects did not perceive a difference between wearing the control garment and armor system A. There was a trend for wearer acceptability to decrease from wearing the control garment to armor systems A to C to B.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.137-154
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• 2002

It's not easy to renew old brand of over 50 years history to the tastes of new consumer of our time. Most of national brands that has a history of some 20 years in Korea have strove for continuation and growth of brand to no avails, which can be taken as a good example of current situation. For instance, C company, one of the National brand of US which has a history of 51 years, has made its position secure as a fashion group and based itself on a sound foundation by establishing new marketing strategy and completing successful brand renewal in the process of strategic M&A with Italian company. Those successful marketing strategies are as follows. 1) they regarded both market and consumer oriented marketing activity as company's highest priority strategy and put great emphasis upon concentration on target market and reestablishment of brand image of business casual wear. 2) Setting up and operating planning team composed of merchandizer alone in Milano, they set the direction of plan on the basis of concentrated research on potential item in market according to thorough market research done by buying office in Korea, branch office in Hong Kong and buyer in US prior to blueprint planning for season. 3) Great emphasis was placed on business which focused on intensive presentation of basic key item for apparel career women who are main consumer group in the midium-low prices market in US and on supplementation of size and color. they named this line 'collectibles' and helped their customer develop their own clothes plan without worrying about the change of color and fabric by supporting same fabric and color throughout the year and enabled them to add variation easily by supplementing new trend item. 4) Company set black as a main color that lots of apparel career women find easy to care and to express their own image and presented them with pebble which belongs to navy and beige and added fashion color such as wine and brown etc as season goes by. They constructed basic line in order for their customers to coordinate purchased item with new one or to add them to present collection, and to achieve efficient sale by setting up strategy which allows this cross coordination and changing pattern occasionally. 5) Though basic jacket for 99$, short slim skirt for 49$ are products within midium-low prices range, in the material planning stage aiming at production of item that has both resonable function appealing to consumer and is fashionable, synthetic material had to be used as a main source due to price competitiveness. Despite this situation, considering comfortable sense of fit and refined drape of silhouette that has no sign of cheap material, whole collectible line was divided into two items, which contributed to reduction of cost. In case of material that is composed of triacetate and polyester in 70 to 30 ratio, was used up to 4 million yard, which allowed drastic curtailment of cost accompanied by concentration. In case of 'collectibles' line, using Korean material mainly, C company chose to have their product sewed in Southeast Asian countries where transportation is well developed and both productivity and quality verified by operating global production system which aiming at cutdown of cost through outsourcing production from the country where labor cost is low and getting finished product. Polarization between present consumers telling us that consumers with the mind of middle classes in the past no longer exists between consumers who seek after only fine article of highest quality and wise consumers who are sensible enough to judge bubble on correlation between price and quality. To cope with this change in new consumer mind, apparel makes changing their policy so as to produce item that has reasonable quality and falls within affordable price range anywhere in the world. and they're striving to get out of difficult situation by operating global marketing strategy which stresses separation of planning, production and sale and sensibility of fashion shared worldwide. The marketing strategy of C company can be exemplified as a successful one.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.58-73
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to improve of fittness and coverage rate of exporting domestic clothing to China for Chinese Adult Female. For study, It was measured 1381 female women aged between 19 and 50 who resident in Beijing and Shanghai in China. as a sample, 1360 female women was seleted for development of apparel sizing system. As for the method of this study was made of 111 items by indirect measures done during Jun. 23 $\sim$ Aug. 7, 2004. Data analysis were processed by SPSS WIN 10.0 Program was used to for technical statistical analysis, correlation analysis, factor analysis, ANOVA(t-test and F-test), duncan's multiple test. The result was as follows: Chinese Adult women's constitutional components determined by factor analysis, six components could be identified: factor 1:constitutional obesty and width size, factor 2: longistudinal body size, factor 3: shoulder form and size, factor 4: longistudinal upper body size, factor 5: under body size, factor 6: shoulder dropping. According to the Women's Wear Specifications(GB/T 1335.2-1997) by drop, body types of Chinese Adult female was classified into six types, it was Y, A, B, C and Z, D. In order, A type as standard somatotype(49.8%), B type(26.9%), Y type (18.8%), C type(2.9%). Y type had the average height and shoulder, bust girth. They were slimmer in overall terms. A type had a normal obesity and body size in height, shoulder, bust girth. They were average Chinese Women. B type had a smaller then A type. They were more obes and thick waist girth. C type had the highest obesity, the widest shoulder and bust girth, and thick waist girth. The characteristics of each body type following the body type structure factor are Y-type for slender type, A-type for standard type, B-type for slightly large type, and C-type for obese type. For each region, the Beijing area had in the order of A-type, Y-type, B-type and C-type, and the Shanghai area had in the order of A-type, B-type, Y-type and C-type.

• 복식
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• 제50권3호
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• pp.87-104
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• 2000

The women's apparel sizing system, currently used in the Korean industry, does not reflect measurement differences associated with varying body types and age. Forty five body meaqsurements were taken on 560 subjects, whoes eages ranged from 18-24. STatistical analysis of the data was coducted by using frequences, crosstables, correlation, oneway ANOVA, Regressio analysis. The results of this study were as follow. 1. Average height of women in their early 20's is 160cm, average bust girth 82cm, average hip girth 90cm and average drop 809. The correlation between height and grth items were low and the correlation of length items in the superior and inferior body were shown to bo high respectively. 2. The average Rhrer index is 1.28 and they ussually seem to be in the thin and standard body group. 3. body types were divided by differences between hip and bust sizes. N type(medium hip), A type (large hip), H type(small hip). A classification by body type showed that N type made up 58% while a type made up 24%. 4. The garment sizes for women in their early 20's were developed. 5. The new basic blocks and garment sizes for women in their early 20's were developed as follows : Bust girth (1/2) = 76N, 76A, 79A type($\frac{1}{2}$B+ 4cm) 79N type($\frac{1}{2}$B+ 3.5cm) 82N, 85N type ($\frac{1}{2}$B +3cm) Hip girth($\frac{1}{2}$) =N type($\frac{1}{2}$H + 2~2.5cm) Atype($\frac{1}{2}$H +1.5~2cm) Waist girth($\frac{1}{2}$)=$\frac{1}{2}$W + 2-3cm Back length =extimated measure -0.5cm Front length=76A, N (Back length + 2.2cm) 79A, N(back length +2.7cm) 82N(Back length +3.2cm) 85N(Back length + 3.7cm) Sleeve length=Sleeve length +3cm.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권3호
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• pp.346-359
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• 2012

This study provides basic guidelines to enrich lecture content and teaching methods for university lecturers about basic clothing construction (flat pattern making). The survey was conducted from October $13^{th}$ to December $20^{th}$ 2010 by mail and e-mail on 96 selected clothing departments in Korean universities to investigate the content, method and condition of the course of basic pattern making. A total of 63.3% of survey respondents were PhD graduates, 80 percent majored 'Apparel Science and Technology', average of total teaching experience was 12.84 years and 40 percent had studied abroad. The surveyed universities were 4 year universities (70%), 2-3 year tenure colleges (27%), and Cyber Universities (3%). The average number of students in a class was 28.08 and the lab space and equipment was evaluated positively only when the number of students was 20 or less. The type of measurements for basic pattern drafting were 'individual student's sizes' (62%), 'ready-made clothes sizing system' (25%), 'professor's experiential sizes' (5%), 'dress form sizes' (3%). In addition, the percentage of using 'ready-made clothes sizing system' increased 13% over the previous study (Lee, 2000). At a basic pattern drafting stage, 'the error of body measurements' in the case of using individual student's sizes, 'the poor results of fitting for students who deviate from standard body size' in the case of using ready-made clothes sizing system, 'the lack of education about fitting' in the case of using dress form sizes had been pointed out as shortcomings. A total of 66% of survey respondents carried out muslin fitting; however, a lack of students and teacher feedback about fitting & alteration of paper patterns remained a problem.

• 대한인간공학회지
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.117-124
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• 2009

To inspect the quality of data collected from a large-scale body measurement and investigation project, it is necessary to establish a proper data editing process. The three-dimensional body measurement may have measuring errors caused from measurer's proficiency or changes in the subject's posture. And it may also have errors caused in the process of algorithm expressing the information obtained from the three-dimensional scanner into numerical values, and in the course of data-processing dealing with numerous data for individuals. When those errors are found, the quality of the measured data is deteriorated, and they consequently reduce the quality of statistics which was conducted on the basis of it. Therefore this study intends to suggest a new way to improve the quality of the data collected from the three-dimensional body measurement by proposing a working procedure identifying data errors and correcting them from the whole data processing procedure-collecting, processing, and analyzing- of the 2004 Size Korea Three-dimensional Body Measurement Project. This study was carried out into three stages: Firstly, we detected erroneous data by examining of logical relations among variables under each edit rule. Secondly, we detected suspicious data through independent examination of individual variable value by sex and age. Finally, we examined scatter-plot matrix of many variables to consider the relationships among them. This simple graphical tool helps us to find out whether some suspicious data exist in the data set or not. As a result of this study, we detected some erroneous data included in the raw data. We figured out that the main errors are not because of the system errors that the three-dimensional body measurement system has but because of the subject's original three-dimensional shape data. Therefore by correcting some erroneous data, we have enhanced data quality.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권4호
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• pp.669-684
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• 2016

This study investigates Korean fighter pilot's usage and satisfaction of a flight duty uniform (FDU). The survey was conducted from October 2014 to March 2015 using Focus Group Interview (FGI) and questionnaires. FGI collected qualitative data about duty and requirements; subsequently, surveys were performed to collect quantitative data about wearing conditions and satisfaction with FDU. The results of the FGI and the questionnaire were as follows. Type of pilot duty was divided into two parts, flight duty and ground duty. It is important to consider duties as well as factors related to survival when developing FDU. According to anthropometric data and wearing size, the basic size for apparel grading should be changed from actual size, 'M95XL' to 'M100L'. It is also necessary to improve the whole sizing system. Further studies about body form changes in pilot's movement are needed to improve mobility because the respondents perceived some restrictions at several body parts in movement with the coverall uniform. Summer FDU had a low satisfaction level in vent hole function and appearance. Furthermore, protection problems in the vent hole were also an issue. Making a seasonal classification of FDU fabric will be more effective than a vent hole to increase a pilot's thermal satisfaction. Respondents had a passive stance towards FDU reform (including pocket change); therefore, a new FDU design strategy should concentrate on improving current FDU functions like mobility (or comfort) rather than dramatic changes. Pilots complained about the quality stability of FDU; therefore, quality control by military administration as well as concrete and clear design instructions by the developer should be attained together. The results obtained in this study are expected to be used as an important basis for the further development of FDU.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권7호
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• pp.978-986
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• 2005

The color of apparel products have a close relationship with the face skin colors of consumers. In order to extract the favorable colors which flatter to consumer's face skin colors, this study was carried our to classify the face skin colors of Korean females. The criteria that select new subjects who have the classified face skin colors have to be decided. With color spectrometer, JX-777, face skin colors of subjects were measured and classified into three clusters that had similar hue, value and chroma with Munsell Color System. Sample size was 324 Korean females and other new 10 college girls. Data were analyzed by K-means cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan multiple range test, Stepwise discriminant analysis using SPSS Win. 12. Findings were as follows: 1. 324 subjects who have YR colors were clustered into 3 face skin color groups. 2. Discriminant variables of face skin colors were 5 variables : b value of cheek, V value of forehead, L value of cheek, C value of forehead and H value of cheek by the standardized canonical discriminant function coefficient 1. 3. Hit ratio of type 1 was $96.8\%$, of type 2 was $94.9\%$, of type 3 was $100.0\%$ and mean of hit ratio was $96.9\%$ by canonical discriminant function of 5 variables. 4. With the unstandardized canonical discriminant function coefficient and constant, canonical discriminant function equation 1 and 2 were calculated. And cutting score and range of score of the classified types were computed. The criteria that select the new subjects were decided.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.725-742
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• 2016

In the Korean fashion industry, 3D printing systems are considered as new technology and a new opportunity. With 3D printers, consumers can be manufacturers and individuals can develop businesses with little upfront capital. In this study, a dress form for the typical Korean women's body shape was developed using 3D technology (3D scanning, 3D modeling, and 3D printing). Ten women with apparel sizes 85-91-160 were selected from 3D body-scan data collected by SizeKorea of 201 women aged 25 to 34 (2010). First, 15 horizontal cross-sections were collected from the 3D scan data of the 10 subjects. Then, inside lines of those cross-sections were drawn at 15-degree intervals, and the lengths were measured. The average of the inside lines was connected to the internal spline curve, and the curves were used as the average cross-sections. The average torso body and the dress form of Korean women were developed into a 3D solid model using a 3D CAD program (Solidworks 2012). An output mockup was printed by the FDM type's 3D printing system (Bonbot 1200, Bonbot 3-H4) using PLA material. The dimensions comparing the 3D solid modeling to the 3D printed mockup of the dress form were measured, and minor differences were between 0.00cm and 0.40cm. In the future, 3D printing systems are expected to be in use for various personalized dress forms.