Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.33
no.2
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pp.187-199
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2009
Recently, the quality and design of the children's wear is being improved remarkably. Following the trend, the need for the research on the pattern making of children's wear is growing. At first, we tried to find out how the industry is doing the pattern making job through interview. Results are as follows. The target age ranges from 5 to 11 years old. For the sample size of pattern making, 7 years of age is preferred. It is not usual to develop the design pattern from the bodice block pattern. Instead, they use middle block pattern for each item, such as blouse, shirt, pants, skirt or jacket. Starting from these middle block pattern, they prepare individual designs. With the results, the aim of the research became to develop one of most frequently used middle block pattern. The blouse block pattern was selected for that purpose. To look into the existing patterns, we selected 4 methods, i.e. NM-method, T-method, O-method, E-methods. Theses patterns were compared through wearing test for the evaluation of comfort and fit using trial garments. The results indicated the NM-method was best among them. Specially waist line position, shoulder shape and size allowance was adequate. Alteration and adjustment of pattern draft was made onto the NM-method. Allowances for the bust circumference, across chest, across back and depth of arm was adjusted for better comfort as well as fine fit. Sidelines of the bodice and the underarm seam of the sleeves were curved for styling. After another wearing test, the final pattern was suggested as a blouse block pattern for 7 years old girl.
Objective: The purpose of this study is to develop an all- in-one collar shirt with excellent appearance which is well suited to the body shape of the male adults. Background: As men's casual wear has recently become more casual and the number of cool biz wearing in the summer has increased, a variety of shirt colors have been preferred in addition to shirt collar. However, studies on the design and pattern development of men's casual shirt collars are very rare. So we have identified the necessity of various development and research of men's shirts. Method: We collected 8 all-in-one collar patterns for shirts from professional pattern books and men's shirt brands. Also, based on anthropometric data from the 6th Size Korea, we selected 5 subjects with measurements similar to the average adult men, manufactured shirts based on them and conducted a wearing test by 5 experts. Results: After selecting shirts with good fit and appearance, we developed a prototype of all-in-one collar. As for front appearance evaluation, E1 pattern had the most outstanding shape and size, and C1 pattern had the most natural creases and front adjustment curves. As for side appearance evaluation, C1 had the highest overall scores, and E1 pattern on outer line. As for back appearance evaluation, C1 pattern had the highest score. Conclusion: We suggested new all-in-one collar and shirt patterns. In addition, the prototype of the all-in-one collar shirt design was presented by reflecting results of the wearing test and preference survey. Application: The shirt's design and patterns could be manufactured using the developed patterns. It will fit well with the body shape of adult males and will be highly satisfied by them.
The purpose of this study is to develop a dress form for elderly women according to their somatotype to be used for improving the fit of garments and patterns. Analyzing each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the 4 somatotypes in most of measure items. Bend-forward Group had shorter front length items. Abdomen-fat Group had lower upper-body values than Average Group and similar lower-body values to Fat Group. In most items except height, Fat Group had the biggest values. Analyzing the mean cross-section according to the section measurement parts, no difference existed in shoulder part and under bust part. However, in upper bust, bust, waist, abdomen, high hip, and hip parts, a significant difference existed. Also, according to the results of the mean cross-section as well as the average cross overlap section for each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the four somatotypes. Thus, Abdomen-fat Group and Fat Group were similar, while Bend-forward Group and Average Group were alike. According to the increase of age, lower body tended to have more conspicuous changes. Analyzing the profile of somatotypes, there existed a obvious significant difference among the 4 somatotypes, implying that the characteristics of somatotype need to be reflected when to develop dress forms for elderly women. Therefore, these differences must be an essential factor in pattern design. Comparing the current dress form with the dress form developed with simulation, we could find that a dress form developed for elderly women which reflects the characteristics of body shape is much better than a dress form developed by simple size variation such as small, medium and large size divisions to improve the fit of garments and pattern designs.
This study aimed to develop a a custom-made dress form for draping using a live model's 3D body scan obtained from an entry-level 3D handheld scanners, 3D modeling software and 3D printing technology. A female subject was recruited whose body size fell under the normal (N) body shape criteria suggested by KS K 0051. First, the handheld scanner reduced the length of the legs in scanning, but most of the scanning operations between the neck and crotch levels were conducted accurately. Therefore, this study was designed to develop a torso dress form. The full body 3D scan was edited into a torso shape using ZBrush® software. Using Rhinoceros® and Materialise's Magics software, a 3D body scan was modeled so that the user could fit two types of mannequin stands (one with a neck fixation from above and one with an insert from below) to the dress form. The body scan was divided into 9 pieces to fit the printable size of the Stratasys 3D printer Fortus 250mc, and the cross-sectional distance from the center to the periphery was downsized by 2 mm. After outputting the dress form scan file with a 3D printer, the dress form was manufactured by the first covering it with a 4 oz nonwoven pad and the second covering with a single jersey material.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.40
no.5
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pp.954-965
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2016
This study was designed to help develop an optimized sizing system for the military winter jackets of Korean males. First, we conducted a survey on the supply rate of military winter jackets and the wearing of suitable size jackets in order to identify problems in the current sizing system. We next developed a new sizing system generation method to satisfy the coverage rate and appropriate size number: Hybrid of Grid with Optimization. The findings of this study were: 1. The survey indicated that a 90 (chest girth) size is necessary; in addition, a one-step large size jacket fit well as a right size jacket. 2. We developed three optimized sizing systems for Korean male military winter jackets using the Hybrid of Grid with an optimization method and suggested one of them as a final new sizing system. The new sizing system consisted of two primary dimension: chest girth and stature. It has a 14 size number and its extended coverage rate is larger than the current sizing system and it has a 90 (chest girth) size. It also selected an optimized size for the area of low population density. The new sizing system is therefore considered very effective for Korean male soldiers military winter jackets.
This study investigates the wearing trend and purchase facts for adult females in their 20s and 30s along with their fitting satisfaction for woven jackets and circular knitted jackets. A questionnaire survey on consumers investigated satisfaction with jackets according to clothing materials and repair trend after wearing. Subsequently, a preference for circular knitted jackets was shown higher than woven jackets. Females in their 20s preferred woven jackets than those in their 30s; however, the latter preferred circular knitted jackets than the former. For woven jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with size; however, for circular knitted jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with fitting. In the question on their satisfaction by jacket part, satisfaction with circular knitted jackets was higher in all items except for bust measurement, bottom edge measurement, elbow circumference, shoulder width, and clothes length. Circular knitted jackets had lower repair rates than woven jackets and woven jackets had significant differences by age in satisfaction with back width. The research results indicate that females in their 20s and 30s who value fit preference and practicality will increasingly wear knit clothes. Therefore, we can address the fitting satisfaction requirement of females in their 20s and 30s by taking the clothing material properties of circular knitted clothes into consideration. In addition, further research is required on jacket patterns in consideration of clothing materials.
In order to improve the problems with obese women's ready-to-wear by age range, this study surveyed the actual clothing purchase and wearing of women in their 20s and 30s with normal and obese body types, and compared and analyzed their satisfaction with ready-to-wear by age and body type. First, for normal body types, both women in their 20s and 30s use department stores the most. Meanwhile, obese women in their 20s make most of their purchases at internet shopping malls, while those in their 30s mostly go to department stores. For criteria for purchasing clothing, normal women both in their 20s and 30s value design most whereas, obese women put size and fit before design regardless of their age. Normal women in their 20s and 30s both were most unsatisfied with standardized design because they could not find designs they wanted. Obese women in their 20s and 30s also showed disapproval of unvaried sizes, indicating a distinct difference in body types and age. As well, the study found that both normal and obese women wear casual style the most, followed by semi-formal style. Also, regarding the images they were seeking when wearing clothing, the normal women wanted to look fashionable, while obese women wanted to look slim, regardless of age. Both body-type groups generally like preferred semi loose-fits the most, followed by tight-fit. They however, dislike relaxed loose-fitting.
The empirical mass discrepancy-acceleration (MDA) relation of disk galaxies provides a key test for models of galactic dynamics. In terms of modified laws of gravity and/or inertia, the MDA relation quantifies the transition from Newtonian to modified dynamics at low centripetal accelerations $a_c{\lesssim}10^{-10}ms^{-2}$. As yet, neither dynamical models based on dark matter nor proposed modifications of the laws of gravity/inertia have predicted the functional form of the MDA relation. In this work, I revisit the MDA data and compare them to four different theoretical scaling laws. Three of these scaling laws are entirely empirical; the fourth one - the "simple ${\mu}$" function of Modified Newtonian Dynamics - derives from a toy model of gravity based on massive gravitons (the "graviton picture"). All theoretical MDA relations comprise one free parameter of the dimension of an acceleration, Milgrom's constant aM. I find that the "simple ${\mu}$" function provides a good fit to the data free of notable systematic residuals and provides the best fit among the four scaling laws tested. The best-fit value of Milgrom's constant is $a_M=(1.06{\pm}0.05){\times}10^{-10}ms^{-2}$. Given the successful prediction of the functional form of the MDA relation, plus an overall agreement with the observed kinematics of stellar systems spanning eight orders of magnitude in size and 14 orders of magnitude in mass, I conclude that the "graviton picture" is sufficient (albeit probably not a necessary nor unique approach) to describe galactic dynamics on all scales well beyond the scale of the solar system. This suggests that, at least on galactic scales, gravity behaves as if it was mediated by massive particles.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.32
no.8
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pp.1190-1201
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2008
The objective of this study is to compare and analyze middle and high school boys' and girls' uniform wearing conditions. The survey was conducted online and data were obtained from 907 middle and high school boys and girls. The results of this study are as follows. First, most boys and girls did not know their body sizes other than their height and weight. Second, when purchasing the school uniforms, over 70% of the boys and girls chose to try on the uniforms before their purchase and over 60% of the boys and girls had trouble selecting their sizes just by reading the labels. Third, both boys and girls considered the fit as the most important factor. When purchasing jackets, both middle and high school boys considered the shoulder width as most important. Middle school girls considered the jacket and sleeve length as most important, whereas high school girls considered the shoulder width, waist, and bust as most important. When purchasing skirts or slacks, waist girth was considered as most important. Fourth, boys repurchased more school uniforms than girls. Boys have outgrown their uniforms usually in the length categories, whereas girls have outgrown in the girth categories. Fifth, more girls(72.7%) modified their uniforms than the boys(56.8%). Boys usually bought bigger uniforms, modified them to fit and when they grow out of their uniforms they planned to modify their uniforms again whereas girls modified their uniforms to follow the trend. Sixth, the online shopping mall survey has revealed that both boys and girls liked the idea of 3D model that reflect their own body shapes, but they had low preference to purchase school uniforms online. Online purchase has been more attractive to the boys than to the girls, while the way of fashioning uniforms has been more attractive to the girls than to the boys.
Objectives : The purpose of this study was to develop an instrument for Korean Scaling Fear (KSF)-1.1 in scaling patients. Methods : 402 sample size for scaling patients was studied in Daegu city in July and August of 2011. Mean and standard deviation was calculated in 3 dimensions(FWS: fear while scaling, DDH: distrust on dental hygienist, FAS: fear after scaling). Results : Age of 402 subjects was 36.5 years. In analyzing reliability for item-level, a range of correlation coefficient(${\alpha}$) on item-internal consistency(FWS, DDH, and FAS) was 0.58~0.88(${\alpha}$=0.90), 0.40~0.71(${\alpha}$=0.82), and 0.54~0.63(${\alpha}$=0.82), respectively. Floor(%) and ceiling(%) value on 3 dimensions were also 9.2% and 4.0%, 12.4% and 0.5%, and 17.7% and 1.2%, respectively, therefore, we found statistically high reliability for those(p<0.001). With explanatory factor analysis, this study could generate 3 dimensions(factor 1, eigenvalue 5.41, proportion 0.49; factor 2, eigenvalue 1.50, proportion 0.14; factor 3, eigenvalue 1.04, proportion 0.09) and 11 sub-scales. Also confirmatory factor analysis results showed that the KSF1.1 model was fitted very well in analysis of model fit($x^2$=112.94, df=41, p=0.000; goodness of fit index=0.95; adjusted goodness of fit index=0.92; root mean square residual=0.057). Conclusions : In conclusion, The findings of this study showed that developed reliable and valid instrument for measuring the KSF1.1 in the scaling patients.
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