• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.105-114
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• 2001

The result of this study is on textile expressed in the costume of the Kazakh tribe, Kirgiz tribe, Tajik tribe. Basically the material of costume is fur, cotton flannel, felt, silk, cotton outwear, velvet cloth and beads, silver, earing, bracelet is used frequently. The tribes did embroider on the shoes, made of sheepskin or calfskin and collar, belt, button, pocket with the sketch of national trait. Eventually their cultures of costume seem to be very similar because of the resemblances in circumstance of nature, religion, custom of life but definitely they show conservatism in itself and independent culture. In the basic structure of traditional costume by races, there is no big difference. Then, in men, the trousers and the shirts of tunic type become the basic with the style which is convenient to act. And, to wear vest, or jacket, or chaban, over it makes a little difference. In women also, same structure shows with the form to wear vest or outwear, on the basis of one piece. But, in a small hat, head wear, color contrast, and decoration element etc., strict difference is showing. After all, they show very similar clothing life culture basically in natural environment, religion, and life habit etc., But, the discrimination is made in the detailed side. So, it can be said that they show the conservative nature of nationalities, and have preserved the unique identity of their own culture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.139-156
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of traditional Korean patterns appearing on fashion collections from 1990 to 2005. Traditional Korean patterns have been used as an important element to express a Korean image since the 1990s. Frequently used patterns included several kinds of geometric patterns, plant patterns(flower, peony, Four Gracious Plants), and Chinese character patterns. Specifically, since the 2000s, animal patterns such as tiger, Chinese phoenix, and giraffe which were not often used, plant patterns such as arabesque, peony, and flower, and a variety of Chinese character patterns appeared. For the expression techniques, while embroidery and printing was often used in the 1990s, they became varied into printing, beading, embroidery, gold and silver leaf, and hand painting after 2000 as a result of designers' active attempts. The aesthetic characteristics of fashion design with its focus on traditional patterns were analyzed. First, Chinese character patterns and phoenix pattern which were mainly used for a court suit, and show the excellence and unique originality of Korean culture. Second, traditional Korean patterns directly and indirectly imply symbolistic significance of lucky sign and illustrate the use of various lucky sign patterns. Third, traditional Korean patterns such as arabesque or peony were expressed by colorful embroidery to add decorative beauty. Finally, traditional Korean patterns reflect a naturalistic worldview and are completed finished as the design.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.16
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• pp.56-81
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• 2015

Ring in the scroll painting is one of the mounting elements which are fixed string and tassel to hang, these differ widely in shape and produce a variety of metals. Most traditional shapes of ring have been lost, because of remount, there are used Japanese style rings in present.Therefore, this study examines to shape, production technique and analyze component traditional style rings of 19 traditional scroll paintings in National Museum of Korea for restoration of original style. Ring has been recorded official names; Wonhwan(Ring), Gukhwadong(Chrysanthemum shaped ornaments), Baemok(Ring-shaped nail) in Uigwe. Result of an optical microscope (Leica, M205A), Wonhwan has two type of production technique; one is cutting and bending a metal rod and other is cast. Baemok is made to forging process after metal rod or plate by casting alloy. Baemok decoration is metal plate cutting shape, and then decorates it with pattern by using kicking line engraving, chasing and so on. Component analysis result from portable X-ray fluorescence found various metals, such as, brass, iron silver-cooper. Brass based on copper and zinc used rings of 17 scroll painting. Baemok of Yun Sidal portrait is used iron and plated with a tin-lead alloy. Yi Seogu portrait is silver-cooper alloy in whole ring.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1112-1128
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop royal costume design with contemporary taste depending on the character of hero, Lee San, and time flow of TV historical drama and research design discrimination and creative expression. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The design concept of costume was modern & chic & clean. The costume was designed through straight silhouette, clean & bright colors excluding prime colors, style transformed to permanent straight pleats on the basis of chulik, 100% silk material focusing on high quality and pattern & decoration of the age of Three Kingdoms. As results, the designs of princess' official rob, day dress and chulik, and emperor's official robe, chulik, military dress and chun-dam-bok were developed. The design discrimination depending on social status change. In the period of princess, black, white, silver and blue were used but in the period of emperor, red, gold and black were used. It was expressed through dragon pattern and extended length used in cloth. The design discrimination depending on character change was visualized through color. Although it is not consistent with historical investigation, contemporary fashion design elements were added to royal costume through color contrast of black & white, permanent straight pleats, velcore, wristlet, extended length and layered-look.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.348-365
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to develop Korean clothing designs that can satisfy future consumer's needs based on the elements extracted through the content analysis method in a study on the design elements expressed in traditional outfits in the 2010s. To this end, data analyzing Hanbok in wedding magazines were used, and after extracting design elements, research methods for empirical design development were used. After subclassifying the major design elements, factors with a steady increase in frequency and appearance rate were identified. Through this, five elements capable of aesthetic sampling were extracted by complex expression methods and expressed in a total of seven combinations. The types extracted from the design elements are items, silhouette, top shape, skirt shape, skirt length, mixed items with increasing frequency. In the element of color, the adjacent color harmony, which showed the highest frequency of color, and the white-blue harmony, which showed an increase among them, were extracted. When using materials, top and skirt have similar usage rates of the same and different materials, so both contents were extracted, and many patterns were arranged in the top and the whole, but these three were extracted because there were increasing cases where there were no patterns. In the case of decoration, embroidery, pintuck, sakdong, applique, lace, ribbon on the top, silver foil and print on the skirt were extracted. Through this study, it was possible to propose a future Korean costume design model.

• KOMUNHWA
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• no.69
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• pp.41-62
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• 2007

This thesis is focused on the bat symbol, especially prevalent crafts’ pattern in late Joseon period on museum collections. For the use and reperception of them, I am aimed for appropriate analysis of bat symbol by co connotation which reflects the characteristics on number.plastic.color symbol. This point of view, bat idea and bat paintings in Joseon period will be the source of meanings to the denotation of bat patterns. In the museum collections, bat paintings and patterns are calculated 324 objects. By functional classification, the bat patterns on dwelling-crafts for the royal and for the people will be discussed. In result, the bat paintings were only a few, however, usually connoted Taoist hermit with super-natural powers.longevity.protector of Lightning-God.praying for long life, which were based on Taoism. Meanwhile the bat symbol of dwelling-crafts for the royal projected the longevity and prosperity of king and queen. By he Five Blessings and good auspices in Ching dynasty, number of '5.4' implied 'Five Blessings', Through the correct recognition of homo-phone, "a bat(蝠, fu)=happiness(福, fu)$\rArr$five bats(五蝠)$\rArr$Five Blessings(五福 )." In the case of bat symbol on the dwelling-crafts for the people, especially its for women, it expressed on the metal-decoration of furniture and paper-crafts. In the metal-decoration, the signified of bat symbol were expellant-evil('guard') that of characteristic signifier, white-silver color, number '1' and 'flying-type'. The bat symbol on paper-crafts for the people signified 'double happiness'.harmony.sons with number of '2', 'Five Colors' and the transformation of 'flying-type'. Accordingly, the bat symbol on the dwelling-crafts for the people marked 'happiness and guard', because the people had concrete cognition the bat symbol as a denotation of 'happiness and 'guard' by itself

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2009

Jeollabuk-do is bounded by the sea, and Mahan Baekje culture have been established around a wide plain. Also, in southeastern, it was closed by Gaya kingdom where iron culture was prosperous at that time, a variety of the handles of swords with round pommel is excavated at present. The handles of swords with round pommel is the best amount of excavated objects among the swords with round pommel and producted object for the time. It supposes them to become the foundation of making the decorated swords with round pommel. But, the handles of swords with round pommel that don't have a pattern in handle is indifferent to study because the production method is simple in spite of that the value of archaeological data is sufficient. Therefore, in this study, it examined changed production techniques with the change of times concerning the handles of swords with round pommel of Mahan Baekje Gaya period(before 6C) excavated from Jeollabukdo through using X-rays in order to clarify a variety of production techniques of the handles of swords with round pommel correctly in accordance with a period of production and excavated place. As a result, identified production techniques using X-rays of the handles of swords with round pommel excavated around remains of Mahan Baekje Gaya period shows that production progress improved in order of all-in-one shape, hammer welding shape of the handle of round pommel, and two in body formation in accordance with age. Especially, in two in body shape, it products the handle of round pommel separately, after that it welds the handle of swords and then links the sword blade like a riveting or bottleneck and so on. Despite of improved hammer welding technique, the reason why it didn't utilize is it regards as inlay or gilt will be damaged. And it is judged by using riveting or bottleneck. Also, it appears to techniques of metal craft such as decoration of the handle, decoration of point of sword, inlay, and silver-plating in the period of appearing two in body shape. As clarifying correctly, it provides fundamental database of scientific research about a study of production techniques of handle of swords with round pommel.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.273-282
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• 2009

As a result of investigating research papers concerning the metal bound rim decoration on four pieces of 'Bowl, white porcelain with impressed floral design and sliver bound rim' and one piece of 'Bowl, white porcelain with sliver bound rim' from among the Jingdezhen white porcelain, which are Sinan remains that are kept in a National museum of Korea. It was found that the material of the bound rim was not silver but tin, and lacquer was used as glue. Based on such a scientific analysis, this study conducted a reproduction test of the manufacturing technique and the bonding method of the metal bound rim attached to the upper tip of the china ware. As a way of reproducing the bound rim, the study was able to discover the best method in terms of the avoidance of loss of materials and the workability out of various cutting methods for tin plates, and it also discovered that the use of lacquer in mixture with soil showed a better workability than the use only of a lacquer ingredient in a test of the bonding method of a metal bound rim using lacquer. Also, in the test of a drying method, a bonding method after drying within a short time at a relatively high temperature was found to be more effective than the drying method after humidifying at a normal temperature, which is used in traditional lacquer ware preservation treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.117-142
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• 1997

This study is on perfume case that is one of a great number of ornaments which was designed by out ancestors. We had developed the tradition and the history of perfume case bag fan-weight etc. These have the same function as the present perfume. case. There were basket-shaped perfume cases which were the smellest one among the personal girdle ornaments in the silla era. The various patterned perfume case were made of gold metal coral platinum or green jadeite etc. In the single-crop trinkets a embroidered perfume bag with the gold and silver thread whose forms perfectly match their functions appeared during the Yi Dynasty. There was also a perfume bag which was one of the daily necessities. A precious "jul perfume" was carried by noble women. A fan-weight perfume bag was attached to the fan to emphasize the intrinsic beauty of utility and function. It is necessary to know the function of prefume case. As perfume case is weared on the clothes it was given more decorative effects as well as the function of medicinal amulet with a sweet smell. Therefore it is very important for us to study perfume case that has various function as an ornament. So The purpose of this study is to investigate the practical and decorative side of perfume case with the general examines of perfume finding how to practice use through our life. The results were as follows; 1. The first use of perfume is perfume through smoke which is for ceremony of religion It removes human body odor by degrees and spreads a sweet odor. Also the materials for making perfume of early age is aromatic plants which will be used flour-made flowers stems. As the materials for making perfume use is increasing today we can invent alcohol perfume today 2. Our country the custom of perfume-used is wide. Among them men's perfume-used was very special phenomenon. For example men were wearing perfume bag in the Silla era. Because perfume represented wealth and noble in those days. They shew off social position personality through perfume-used. 3. One of early religion ceremony article there was the perfume. And perfume case was means for containing perfume. Gradually the perfume case was used widly as increasing needs of perfume in human life. 4. In the middle period of 'Koryo' Dynasty perfume cases had a close relationship with clothes but after Mongolian has been attacked 'Koryo' there were changes in wearing clothes therefore the position of perfume cases were transfered to coat string that was the origin of decoration style that they began. That is to say the perfume case has been influenced the position of perfume case shapes with changing of fashion. 5. The perfume case has been made manifest various function as an ornament. In the practical side First medical-perfume in perfume case has been played an important role in first-aid medicine in critical condition. Second it was amulet for self protection. That is the shape pattern color materials perfume of the perfume case was represented the amuletive nature. Third it was used as substitute article of perfume. Modern women use liquid-perfume as our ancestors used perfume case bag or jul perfume As started above. Also In the decorative side the perfume case has a beautiful formative arts by itself as well as a close relationship with clothes. That well as a close relationship with clothes. That is when the perfume case is worn on the clothes costume is showed aesthetices. That is the materials shapes color pattern of the perfume case we can see the visual beauty also the materials colors embroidered pattern knots tassel that are used the perfume case are increased the decorative beauty of costume. Sixth the symbol in pattern of the pattern case is shown ancetor's wealth and rank health longevity immortality many-born-boy in those days. Today the perfume case is not used with changing of costume by degrees, Accordingly I hope that the result of this study is an influened in devlopment of the perfume case design with matching the modern fashion.