• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.347-357
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• 2002

In 1536, two Piedmontese merchants set up workshops in Lyons, and Henri IV encourged further development later in the 16th century. The development of Lyons as a centre of the silk weaving industry was helped by the perfection of drawloom weaving technique there in 1605 by Claude Dangon. In the 17th century, the French silk industry could finally compete with the dominance of the Italian silk trade. The French silk industry was promoted in the mid-17th century under Louis XIV's minister Colbert. In 1667, he published an ordinance creating La Grande Fabrique, a corporation for craftsmen within the silk industry, and Lyons became the undisputed French silk capital. Under Louis X IV, France was becoming the dominant force in Europe in matters of fashion and style. The major innovation of weaving was the Jacquard head attachment, which provided a mechanical means of raising warp threads by a series of punched cards. The are nouveau style did not have much impact on French silk design at the end of the century. Silk manufacturers began to collaborate with haute-couture designers such as the House of Worth. This collaboration with the burgeoning Paris haute-couture industry continued into the 20th century and safeguarded the future production of silk textiles in France.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.191-213
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• 2023

Romans in the fifth and sixth centuries BC referred to the people who brought silk from the Far East via the pre-Han (漢) silk road as "Seres". The Seres' colorful silk was characterized by intricate patterns and high yarn density, markedly different than thin "China silk". This study examined geographic and genealogic records and linguistic evidence and found support for the syllogistic conclusion that the "Seres" were the early Silla people. The Seres' territory in the seventh century BC was much larger than that of the Qin (秦) or Zhou (周), extending from Xinjiang to Balhae. According to literature records, Dong-Yi (東夷) invented Geum (錦) silk in the 11th century BC around Balhae, where silkworm trees were abundant. In the Han dynasty, even thin silk was rare and expensive, but in Gojoseon (古朝鮮), Geum silk was common and less valuable than beads. The Silla delivered surplus Geum silk, fur, and high-quality iron to the West. Linguistic evidence includes historical names for Silla: "Sira," "Saro," and "Sere," as well as records naming King Ruri of Silla "Seri-Ji"; and the replacement of the word "Seres" by the word "Silk" from the Goguryeo word for "yarn winder": "sil-kkury".

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.100-113
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• 2018

From the late 17th to the early 18th century, Europeans were strongly intrigued by products from the East. Therefore, several countries like England, France, and Netherlands formed the 'East India Company' to pursue trade. First, European markets rapidly responded to this desire for exoticism by importing goods; then, they produced imitation Oriental goods. Finally, they made stylistically advanced exotic merchandise from the perspectives of European. In terms of the textile industry, this trend was expressed in the pattern design of silk, or the so called 'bizarre silk.' In this paper, bizarre silk patterns were scrutinized based on a digital archive of museums, catalogues of museums, portal sites, and the literature. The bizarre silk patterns were analyzed then classified into six categories: pseudo-Oriental plant pattern, pattern mingled with architectural motifs, pattern of juxtaposed with Oriental goods, abstract pattern, exuberant pattern with metal threads, and semi-naturalistic pattern. These patterns were characterized according to the following features: strangely large exotic floral patterns were undulating and asymmetrical; exotic foliage and flowers were sometimes mixed with architectural motifs or Oriental goods to easily show the Oriental influence; motifs of bizarre silk patterns were abstractly stylized; bizarre silk patterns became luxurious once more like the Baroque period; finally, floral patterns became more natural, and still exotic motifs remained in the background to maintain the bizarre silk features. These bizarre silk patterns evolved from the viewpoints of Europeans through acceptance stage, compound stage, and confluent stage.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.217-223
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• 2022

Flame-retardant finished silk fabrics could release carcinogenic formaldehyde resulting from the conventional finishing agents. New water-soluble cyclophosphazene derivative can be used as a formaldehyde-free flame retardant for the silk protein. Dichloro tetrakis{N-[3-dimethylamino)propyl]methacrylamido}cyclophosphazene(DCTDCP) can be cured by heat or UV irradiation as a durable flame retardant for the silk fabrics. Treatment conditions were optimized including curing temperature and time, finishing formulations, and UV energy. At the 30% DCTDCP application, peak HRR and THR decreased by 42.6% and 49.6% respectively compared to the pristine silk fabrics. Also char residue increased up to 48% from 11% indicating solid-phase retarding mechanism. The flame-retardant silk fabrics showed a LOI of 31.1 and the washed sample maintained a LOI of 26.8 even after ten laundering cycles.

• Archives of design research
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.73-86
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• 1993

The development of Korean textile industry has continued for the early industrialization. But a change in situation of circumstances, textile industry undergoes hard times. To overcome the barrier, therefore, technical development and design innovation are needed to make high value added product. This paper try to put to practical use of the silk weighting process technique(WPT). First, we investigate the technical trend of WPT to summarize the theory, and examine the feasibility of technical development. Second, the application of Graft process to silk textile is examined to know whether it is possible as an practical use. Next, we present the practical way of WPT using MAA monomer through experiment. The results are as follow. 1) Considering the lack of silk yarn. Graft process is appropriate new technique to make the value added product, and fine quality. 2) Studing textile goods, it need inter-displlinary co-work not only fiber engineering scope because textile goods is closely related with fashion industry. 3) MAA monomer used in this paper is more excellent then other monomer because it has good weighting effect and does not harm to the nature of textile. 4) MAA WPT is good for silk textiles of ladies jacket and neck-tie.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.129-132
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• 2012

Silk fibroin films incorporated with tetracycline was prepared and characterized by Fourier-transform infrared spectrometer and differential scanning calorimeter and examined antibacterial effect. The conformation of silk fibroin was changed from random coil to $\hat{a}$ sheet structure with incorporation of tetracycline. Antibacterial activity of the materials was evaluated against Gram-negative bacteria (Escherichia coli) and Gram-positive bacteria (Staphylococcus epidermis, and Staphylococcus aures) using agar plate method showing clear inhibition zone around tetracycline silk film. It is concluded that tetracycline-incorporated SF films are highly effective against bacteria.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.6 s.91
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• pp.1-9
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability, antibacterial activity on silk and rayon fabrics dyed with cochineal. The result are as follows; 1. The K/S value of silk fabric was higher than that of rayon fabric. 2. The optimum conditions are mordant concentration $0.5{\sim}1%$, dyeing material concentration 2.0%(o.w.f), dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, PH 3 and dyeing time 30minutes. 3. Pre-mordanting method had higher dyeing absorption than post mordanting method in case of silk and rayon fabrics. 4. The antibacterial activity of dyed silk fabrics were higher than that of dyed rayon fabrics and the antibacterial activity was increased by mordanting. 5. The lightfastness and perspiration fastness of silk fabric were improved but these of rayon were not. Dyeing fastness was improved by Fe mordanting on both fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.194-201
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• 2015

Cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with Houttuynia cordata extract using aqueous ethanol solution and the dyeing and post-treatment conditions were optimized to impart antimicrobial activity to the fabrics. The dried Houttuynia cordata can be extracted at $80^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours using an aqueous ethanol solution containing 70%(w/w) ethanol. For the highest color yields. Both cotton and silk fabrics can be dyed at $100^{\circ}C$ for 60min with 10g/L of NaCl under pH 4. Silk fabrics can be dyed to higher K/S than cotton fabrics. The color fastness properties of the dyed fabrics were good when either citric acid crosslinking or aluminum alum mordanting was carried out as a post treatment. The dyed silk and cotton fabrics with the post treatments showed excellent antimicrobial activity against both Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.48-52
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• 2001

The study was conducted to find out suitable flame proofing on silk fabrics and to examine closely the flame retardancy effect and the physical properties changes of the silk, which was dyed by natural dyes and synthetic dyes, treated with agent (Diphenylbutylamidophosphate (DPBAP)). The results of the study were as follows: 1) Silk could be treated with DPBAP easily soluble in water by means of simple Pad-Dry-Cure. 2) The add-on of silk fabrics dyed by natural dyes was more than that of silk fabrics dyed by synthetic dyes. 3) The silk fabrics dyed by india ink among natural dyes has more flame retardancy effect in before treating with flame proofing agent than in after treating with it. 4) The physical properties (stiffness and tensile strength) of the silk fabrics treated with flame retardancy agent were little changed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.189-194
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• 2016

The objectives of this research were to study the effect of salt-shrinkage finishing of silk on shrinkage degree and dyeing property of cochineal, and to investigate the efficacy of obtained results for imparting surface design effect on silk fabric. Ultimately it was aimed to suggest a technical process for developing natural dyed silk products with diverse design. Premordanted silk fabric was treated with $Ca(NO_3)_2$ solution(gravity: 1.45) at $90^{\circ}C$ for 1 min, washed, dried for further evaluation. The shrinkage of salt-treated fabric was calculated. The effects of salt treatment on the dye uptake of cochineal and colorfastness were investigated. The degrees of shrinkage were 10% and 3% for warp and weft, respectively. The salt treatment resulted in improving dye uptake of cochineal slightly. In addition, it improved colorfastness to washing and light. On the basis of the results, a technical process composed of premordanting, salt treatment and natural dyeing was suggested and using the process, two examples of textile design were presented. It can be concluded to impart various three dimensional surface design effect on silk fabric by applying salt-shrinkage finishing with combination of natural dyeing and mordanting.