• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.125-139
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• 2020

The fashion industry that perceived the severity of environmental pollution, has sought various methods of sustainable fashion. However, most of the businesses paid attention to the development of materials using industrial waste, or vegan material. Thus, this study aims to present the methods for improvement in creativity for inversely developing the design from patterns and present new approaches by applying the contrarian development of proto to class under the limited condition of material concerning general design, selection of material, and production of sample. In the case of three student teams enrolled in the first semester of the second year, the fabric and used clothing donated by industry were used as material. The whole cut for cutting a single fabric in connected state, and Zero Wastes Design within a rectangular frame of fabric, upcycling of used clothes, and cutting out of Geometric Form are suggested. The team(A) produced a zero-wastes coat and whole-cut Pancho that could be variously represented. The team(B) produced two kinds of asymmetric dress by utilizing used check-patterned shirts through upcycling. The team(C) utilized the fabric in geometric forms such as rectangle, trapezoid, and atypical figure by drawing design within donated fabrics. The items were a dress, blouse, and skirt. Consequently, an opportunity for both academia and industry to present more concrete methods for sustainable fashion and deeply perceive the sustainable fashion is presented along with novel methods for creation by carrying out the composition of pattern and design at the same time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.97-110
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• 2014

Animals, as a part of nature, have much influence on children's emotional development and are one of children's favorite subjects of design. This study analyzes the differences in animal expression methods and types of animals, in relation to gender and item based on a collection of children's clothing and accessories that use animal as their theme. The collection consists of 148 clothing and 75 accessories (total of 223 items), which were collected from on-line shopping sites for children's clothes. Analysis results showed the following observations. Animal expression was categorized into four methods: emblem, illustration, character, and pattern.(The most common method was character, followed by pattern, illustration, and emblem. In relation to gender and clothing item, animal expression methods varied widely:(character was the most popular for) boys' t-shirts and accessories, while girls' bottoms and dresses. As for (animal) types, Mammalia was the most common, followed by birds and insects. Dogs and puppies were popular both genders.(However, differences in preferences existed as) boys liked big and wild animals such as bears, tigers, and foxes, while girls liked small and cute animals such as rabbits, cats, owls, and butterflies. Based on these results, six types of animals (rabbits, elephants, large-beaked bird Toco Toucans, fish, penguins, and bees) were selected as themes for kids' vest designs and, among them, three designs were made.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.276-287
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• 2009

Apparel professionals need to understand the customer to effectively develop, select, and promote apparel products. Analysis of consumer preferences can help in the creative design process. Therefore the purpose of this study was to identify consumer preference by gender in two segmented group; $20{\sim}34$ aged group and $35{\sim}49$ aged group toward men's apparel consumers, considering target customers and female influences on men's wear purchasing. We used questionnaires that were distributed to 600 males and females aged in their 20s to 40s, using stratified sampling method. Only 547 reliable questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. Chi-Square and t-test were used to analyze the data, using SPSS program. We obtained the following results: 1. We found that there was a significant association between segmented age group and the preference of men's jacket style. Specially $20{\sim}34$ aged group had a significant association with styles of formal jacket, casual t-shirts, casual pants, but $35{\sim}49$ aged group had formal pants style. Looking at the general percentage, semi-formal jacket, slim fit t shirt, straight casual pants were the most favored styles. 2. Age has an significant effect on the preferences of formal menswear fabric patterns and shirt patterns. The results of t-test showed that there found to be significant by gender in character and check pattern of shirts. 3. In design details, the number of button had not significance by gender, and 2 buttons was th most favored by both age groups. The number of gather at the waist had an significant association in $34{\sim}49$ age group. $20{\sim}34$ age group prefer high waist of pants, while $35{\sim}49$ age group prefer low waist of pants. 4. For on time outfit, formal wear and tie ensemble was the most favored with significant difference by age and gender. Formal wear and no tie ensemble favored by about one third of respondents, and more favored by the younger group. For off time outfit, casual jacket and casual pants ensemble was the most favored.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.646-656
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• 2015

This study investigates the conditions of Korean naval duty and combat uniforms to develop a new design. Survey participants consisted of, 723 Sailors ($25.3{\pm}6.9yr$ in age, $43{\pm}53$ months in work experience, $174{\pm}6cm$ in height, $71{\pm}9kg$ in body mass) serving in the Korean Navy for over 12 months. The questionnaire consisted of 72 questions about anthropometric characteristics, preferred design, textiles, wear mobility, and subjective perceptions. The results showed that the preferred colors for future naval duty uniforms were blue in summer (69%) and black in winter (62%). Digital camouflage pattern (60%) and darker colors on the inside of shirt collar (87%) and the edge of sleeves (84%) were preferred. They favored more than one pocket on the upper arm and chest of the shirts (58%), narrower width around pant legs and hems than the current clothing (63%), self-controlled elastic waist (55%) and no cargo type pocket on the pants (45%). There were requirements to alleviate excessive heat stress in summer and to protect from the cold and wind in winter. Wrinkle-free (85%), anti-bacterial (78%), water-proof (75%), oil-proof (90%), and elastic (67%) textiles were preferred for Korean navy uniforms. These results will be applied to develop the next generation Korean navy uniforms.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.665-680
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to develop the construction process of orthopedic compression garments (OCG) for balancing of the left and right lumbar muscle power and strength to prevent low back pain. One male subject having low back pain was involved for investigating of the lumbar muscle power. EMG (Telemyo DTS2, Noraxon, U.S.A) was measured with/ without 3 types of waist assistant belt around the waist area of the subject. Based on the electromyogram value of left and right body, OCG were constructed as follows. Firstly, stretchable t-shirts type with supportive waist belt was selected for the convenience of wearing and laundering the OCG. The design lines of the front and back waist parts were created depending on the anatomy of the torso. Secondly, 3D pattern was developed using 3D Clo, RapidForm XOR, 2C-AN, and Yuka CAD program to increase the fit of the OCG. Finally, stretchable power-net was layered as linings in two ways, a single lining and double layered linings, and evaluated measuring lumbar muscle EMG by five subjects with low back pain. As the results, they were effective to balance the left and right lumbar muscle power and strength. Also the OCG with the double layered power-net lining was superior to the one layered lining in terms of fit and comfort.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.681-695
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• 2014

This study has the purpose to find basic materials for development of kindergarten's uniform and suggest the improvement of its design based on the survey results from Suncheon area in Jeollanam-do of Korea. Such study methods were conducted as literature review, survey with direct visit, interview, and photographing of dresses regarding the kindergarten uniform. The following are research results. First, kindergarten teachers presented a positive opinion about the necessity for children to wear the uniform. In selection of design, they regarded the activity as most important factor. Kindergartens applying active wear compatible as townwear also accounted for 57.1%, which is more than half. Second, the formal wear, in the winter season was found to consist with jacket or knit cardigan, knit vest, shirts, skirts or pants, and necktie. For color, most of them are in dark tone, which need to be brighter. For pattern, they are in plain color, which needs to have various patterns. As to the cloth material, such problems should be improved as warmth retentivity in consideration of seasonal nature, moisture retentivity, breathability, color retentivity when washing, and harmless to human body. Third, active wear is mostly the casual sportswear type. But it has no characteristic unique to kindergarten in design and needs to be altered for differentiated design. Especially, it is simply divided into winter wear and summer wear in kind. Therefore, it is required to have differentiation for seasonal characteristic and diversity in number of item and improvement in terms of cloth material.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.53-62
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• 2009

Through the result of the investigation on costumes in Bulgarian regions, the main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume and its kinds and history have been found out so far as follows. Alhtough varying according to the district and climate, Bulgarian folk costumes have some general features determined by the material, the pattern, the application. For women, Bulgarian costume consists of a white shirt, a single or double apron unique depending on each region(Bruchnick), a basic dress called a tunic (Soukman), and an open-tunic typed coat (saya). The main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume have been under the influence of natural and environmental features and historical streams resulting from its geographical location. Bulgaria is agriculture-oriented society based on a continental climate. Accordingly, as for the classification of costumes, body-fit clothes, such as shirts and jackets which developed in Europe and fit the body shape, have featured in Bulgaria. Besides, Bulgaria was under the rule of Turk for a long time at the end of the Middle Age. Having been influenced a lot those days, its folk costume shows Turkish elements now. With geographical features, it was found that the southern area was influenced most by Turkey and Greece, and the types of folk costumes in Europe developed mainly from the northern area. The adaptation of traditional costume forms to the new cultural and progressive principles of appeal nowadays needs knowledge, as well as feeling. Finding the right measure and proportions of using old ethnic elemints in contemporary clothing is the prerequisite of successful design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.31-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's fashion from the 1960s to the 1990s by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed. On the basis of the theoretical investigation, this study analyzed 932 pictorials from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and S.F.F.A's photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The 932 samples are classified into apparel types, silhouette, pattern, color, type of breasts, shape of collar, number of button, type of inner wear. Frequency and $x^2$-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. The two-piece style prevailed in men's wear during the 60s, 70s, and 90s, while separate style prevailed during the 80s. H silhouette was the most popular during the 60s, 70s and 90s, however, X silhouette dominated the 70s. For patterns, solids were most frequently used throughout the whole 4 decades. In colors, gray was most frequently used during the 60s, and multi color was most frequently used during the 70s, 80s, and 90s. Throughout the whole decades, single breast, tailored collar, two buttons, and dress shirts were the most prevalent styles.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.19-34
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• 1997

The role of fashion image in modern society is being diversified from product planning to consumer satisfaction. In this research, after surveying female college students, the diversified modern fashion image was patterned. On the analogy of the relationship between these patterned image and design factors, the following conclusion was obtained. 1. The most popular styles are jacket and pants suits, three-piece outfits, tight mini-skirts and X-silhouette. Little decoration is used in general. simplicity is shown as trend by utility fabrics in single color-black, brown, beige and blue-with no pattern. Various materials such as wool, cotton, wool or cotton blended with other materials, silk, satin, knit, lace, vinyl and leather are used. 2. Fashion image is divided into four factors; factors that show fad, dignity, activity and simplicity. 3. Factors that show fad; style of tops, material of bottoms and length of bottoms reflect fad. blousons, three-piece outfits, pants rather than skirts, X-silhouette and mini-skirts are prevailing. Vinyl, leather, knit, lace and satin are the materials well used. 4. Factors that show dignity; Style and material of tops, the way of top and bottom pieces are matched and length of bottom or pieces reveal the characteristics. Jackets, blouses, half-coats and one-piece outfits rather than two-pieces are popular. Tight skirts in natural or midi length or pleated skirts are common. Wool, wool blended with other materials, leather and X-silhouette are design factors that reveal dignity well. 5. Design factors that show active image; Straight pants, three-piece outfits, T-shirts, shirt -blouses, vests, and blausons are popular. Knit and lace are used for tops, leather and vinyl are used for bottom pieces and cotton is widely used. Y- or H-silhouette are used to show active image.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2008.10a
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• pp.126-130
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• 2008

본 연구에서는 남자 중학생을 대상으로 1) 티셔츠 단독무늬에서 어떤 감성을 느끼는지 알아보고, 2)선호하는 티셔츠가 무엇이며 그 특징은 무엇인지 알아보았다. 또, 3) 성격에 따라 티셔츠 단독무늬에서 느끼는 감성차이가 있는지에 대해 알아보았다. 본 연구의 연구문제를 실증적으로 조사하기 위하여 설문지법을 이용하였다. 설문지의 구성은 3부분으로 구성하여 1부에서는 MBTI를 이용한 성격유형에 관한 측정문항 2부에서는 의복행동에 관한 측정 문항 3부에서는 티셔츠 단독무늬에 대한 감성 측정 문항이 포함되었다. 본 연구는 인천 지역에 사는 중학생 380명을 대상으로 설문조사에 의해 진행 통계분석은 SPSS 10.0을 이용하여 t test와 분산분석, 대응분석 등으로 분석하였다. 이 중 무성의한 설문지를 제외한 총 331부를 자료 분석에 사용하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 남자 중학생들이 선호하는 단독무늬는 인공물을 소재로 한 사실적인 모티브로 주변에서 쉽게 접할 수 있는 친근한 소재를 활용한 무늬였다. 반대로 친근하지 않은 소재나 이해하기 어려운 단독무늬는 선호하지 않는 것으로 조사되었다. 둘째, 단독무늬에 대한 감성은 성격유형에 따라 다르게 나타났다. 외향형인 학생들은 감성에 대해 극적으로 대답하는 반면, 내향형인 학생들은 중간값에 가깝게 대답하는 성향이 강하게 나타났고, 감각형/직관형에서의 감성차이는 모든 단독무늬에서 직관형 학생들의 선호도가 높게 나타났다. 사고형/감성형에서 나타난 특징은 특정감성이 두 성격유형 모두에서 높게 나타난 경우 항상 사고형 학생집단에서 더 높게 평가하고 있다는 것이다. 판단형/인식형에서는 감성에 따라 의미있는 차이가 가장 많이 나타난 것이 특징이다. 이 결과는 단독무늬에서 느끼는 감성차이가 판단형과 인식형에서 가장 크다는 것을 의미한다.