• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제35권8호
• /
• pp.991-1005
• /
• 2011

This study researches the historical production, process, and design method for 3 pairs of corsets in $18^{th}$ century France. In the analytical stage of historical materials, it grasped the kind, form, origin, and change in style through a lexical definition of relevant terms. Through a precedent study on Garsault's 'L'art du tailleur', preservation costume, and historical reconstruction of pattern in preservation costume, it confirmed corps size, silhouette, pattern form, and material for historical production. The sewing method and the producing sequence were analyzed. In the production stage, 3 selective models in corps plein baleine, corps demi-baleine, and corset were historically produced. With neckline of forming broad Letter U, the bust part is covered roundly. The bodice was composed of 10 panels based on the corps form in the mid-$18^{th}$ century of following a curve of a human body. A shoulder strap was allowed to make the arm movement comfortable by producing and attaching it separately. The cutting line except the center in the front and the back of vertical line was distributed according to the natural flow of a form and movement of the human body. The curve-based pattern line was confirmed.

• 한국문헌정보학회지
• /
• 제23권
• /
• pp.63-106
• /
• 1992

The opening period of Korea was the period of modernisation amidst the conflicts between conservative and progressive sections with penetration of Western powers after 1876. With the opening modernisation accompanied modernisation of education. Missionary schools established by protestant missionaries played a crucial role in educational modernisation in the period of opening. In this article, the process of educational modernisation and the ways in which the ideas of democracy and equality were taught in the earliest schools, Paejae, Ewha, Kyoungsin and Chungsin are analysed through the method of bibliographical investigation of the textbooks used by these schools. No textbook prior to 1900 was found and in general there were no textbooks such as we know today. Usually English reading material and the Bible were the main teaching materials. Teachers kept their own copies of hand-written texts which were translated versions of American textbook. Since the same teacher taught in a number of schools, they shared same curriculum. In the early period, English Bible was taught so that English and the Bible lessons were not separated but gradually history and geography were added. Teaching of Hangul, and Korean history were added to encourage the sense of national identity and patriotism. In the case of Chungsin, for biology class, pupils were sent to Che-jung-won to learn human physiology, chemistry and physics, which shows an emphasis on science education. Vocational education was carried out; in the case of Paejae, a printing workshop was set up enabling students to earn some money at the same time as learning. Also in Kyungsin, skills of woodwork and basket weaving were stressed. Ewha also held a bazaar of the work made in sewing classes. Establishment of missionary schools brought about a great contribution in modernising Korean society and the Christian spiritual education of these schools lay the foundation for building democracy in Korea.

• 복식
• /
• 제59권4호
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine the types of and figurative characteristics of in women's embroidered handicrafts of Korea. It also aims to revive Korean traditional beauty, to examine the applicability of Korean traditional design that has both modern beauty and practicality, and to develop Korean women's embroidered handicrafts. The types of women's embroidered of Korea include Jumoni (pouches), Bojagi (wrapping cloths), and other accessories made by sewing. Jumoni consisting of 55.51% of them was the most frequently used handicraft followed by Bojagi (8.66%), and other accessories (35.83%). In terms of the patterns used, animal pattern and plant pattern were used the most frequently. In addition, complex patterns using two or three patterns together(70.49) were more frequent than singular patterns (29.53%). Pictorial type of pattern arrangement (58.24%) was used the most frequently and dense type (39.76%) and sparse type (2.00%) were followed. In terms of the materials on which embroidery was used, Dahn (85.82%) was used the most frequently followed by wool (5.67%), cotton (4.26%), silk (3.55%), and Sa (0.70%). Various techniques of stitches were used such as outline stitch (40.56%), satin and running stitch (29.32%), French nut stitch (28.11%), long and short stitch (21.28%), double leaf stitch (20.88%), and so on. Among them, satin stitch (63.05%) was the most popular type of stitch techniques. Strings (23.56%), maedeup (Korean traditional knots, 8.62%), or tassels (9.77%) were also attached for the purpose of both practicality and of decoration. There were some cases that added cloissone or red-pepper shaped decorations.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권4호
• /
• pp.472-477
• /
• 2011

In the tide of globalization, culture products play pivotal role in effectively introducing our tradition and culture to the world. This research is about developing culture products using our traditional lady's art craft work to attain the purpose of modern application through recreation of tradition along with modern technology. First, the types of traditional lady's art craft work include pouches, wrapping clothes and other accessories made by sewing except costumes. The materials used were cotton, silk, ramie, hemp and decorating techniques involved were embroidery, patchwork, quilting, knot. Second, the purpose of this study is developing culture products with traditional images which also satisfy modern sense. Therefore, items that could be used readily in daily life were selected. Such items include bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches. In addition, the Korean traditional Patchwork images which have both western-style and modern sense were selected out of the many kinds of traditional lady's art craft works. Third, cultural products (bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches) were created by DTP in silk with sacdong and free-styled division Korean traditional Patchwork images and quilting technique. The significance of this study lies in examining the possibility of developing modern culture products using traditional lady's art craft work. A way to further develop this study would be to shed new light on traditional crafts and local cultural resources and actively carry on the study of cultural product development to provide the foundation for developing cultural products with modern applications.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제15권2호
• /
• pp.294-301
• /
• 2013

Sustainable fashion & textile is more than eco fashion & textile with the concepts for the next generation's happiness, prosumer value, and community responsibility. This study considers methods to enhance fashion and textile industry sustainability in accordance to clothing types (material, product life and washing properties) and to investigate company strategies. Company strategies are of redesign with stock, volunteering & measuring trash amount, participation by evaluation stores, clerk environment education, hiring QC specialist and reinforcing partnerships. For the case of daily innerwear, throwing away and recycling is more efficient for the environment than laundering in the consumer use stage; subsequently, we recommend the use of polypropylene fiber (a cheap and an eco-friendly material) for this item that can be recycled and reformed after use. For the case of single layer clothing (such as sportswear, blouse or pants) we recommend the use of thermoplastic materials with welding or fuse assembling technology instead of a sewing method of seams as well as the recycle design that is simply melted and reformed into new clothing without an after use dissembling process. Secondhand use or resale is suitable for denim/jean items if the clothing has a storytelling or private history tag. Lastly, module-type jacket or coat shows the variety of styles with one clothing worn w/o collar or sleeve details and changed into vest/coat; in addition, it is possible to add or partly tear off some jacket/coat fibers of the felt material to reform it into a new design.

• 한국식품조리과학회지
• /
• 제14권4호
• /
• pp.367-374
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the microbiological quality of, and to assure the hygienic safety of, the kimbap production in the university foodservice facilities in accordance with the HACCP (Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point) Program. The time-temperature relationship and the microbiological quality (specifically, total plate count and coliform bacteria count) were assessed to find the critical control point (CCP) during each of the production phases. The average of the daily longest duration time of the kimbap at the facilities was 23.4 hours in summer, while 29.6 hours in winter. In the purchasing phase of the raw materials, the microbiological quality of laver, fish paste, carrot and cucumber in summer was not at an acceptable level according to the standard set by the Natick research center, especially the number of TPC and the coliform level of laver was higher than the threshold level. In the refrigerator storage phase, the temperature of the carrot was 7.4$^{\circ}C$. This temperature is far exceeding the standard so that the microbiological counts was increased by the 2 log cycle during the average storage time of 17 hours or more. In the preparation phase, the temperature of the blanching is too low compared to the standard. In the holding phase before serving, its time-temperature relationship was out of the FDA food code standard both in winter and summer. In the sewing phase, the number of microbiological count was higher than the threshold level in summer while that in winter was up to standard. According to the Harrigan and McCance standard, the number of microbiological count of the utensils was higher than the threshold level in summer while that in winter was up to standard.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제31권11호
• /
• pp.1645-1652
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study was to evaluate physiological response and subjective sensation of functional knitwears with different materials and designs. The three different types of knitwears were knitted(polar-neck with cotton/chitosan-C, V-neck with cotton/chitosan-CV and polar neck with cotton/chitosan/silver yarn-CS) and evaluated by four healthy female subjects. Eardrum temperature, mean skin temperature, clothing microclimate, and heart rate were measured in climatic chamber($30^{\circ}C$, 50%RH, 0.5m/sec). The results were as follows. 1. Eardrum temperature was generally evaluated as lower in CV and CS than in C. Mean skin temperature was lower in knitwears with silver yarn than in knitwears without silver yarn. 2. Clothing microclimate temperature on the chest was lower in knitwears with silver yarn than in knitwears without silver yarn. 3. Clothing microclimate humidity was generally lower knitwears with silver yarn than knitwears without silver yarn. 4. Heart rate was lower in knitwears with silver yarn than in knitwears without silver yarn and lower in V-neck than in polar neck. 5. Thermal sensation was slightly warmer in knitwears without silver yarn than in knitwears with silver yarn. Overall comfort sensation was evaluated as more comfortable in CV and CS than in C.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제24권4호
• /
• pp.130-143
• /
• 2020

The development of three-dimensional (3D) printing technology is bringing new innovations to various fields such as health care, architecture, and fashion. 3D printing can be manufactured to suit the size of the consumer's body, modify the design to meet their tastes, and produce small quantities of various products. Therefore, 3D printing in the field of fashion has great potential. The purpose of this study was to investigate various application models of 3D printing for fashion design and analyze their characteristics after developing the fashion garment samples. First, the background of 3D printing was reviewed then, fashion designed by a 3D printing application was analyzed. As a result, four types of 3D printing applications were developed: object-attached, linkage, kinematics, and assembly. The object-attached type was the method of printing 3D material as an object in the intended shape and form and was attached to the garment by sewing. The linkage type referred to printing 3D material in small pieces of certain shapes that could be linked. The kinematics type was structures with hinges that could flex to fit the human body. The assembly type referred to developing 3D materials in female and male pieces such as nuts and bolts. By providing the advantages, disadvantages, trial-and-errors, and challenges of the 3D printing fashion design process, this study contributes to the effective applications and possibilities of future design.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제45권9호
• /
• pp.37-52
• /
• 2007

This research developed maternity wear designed with a focus on the essential functions necessary for working women and adaptable to their body changes during pregnancy. Through Martin's anthropometry for 201 pregnant women, the size specifications for maternity wear was determined and a dress form was proposed, in order to provide the manufacturer with reference data and a prototype to verify their products' fit and suitability. From a monthly analysis on the body measurements of pregnant women, significant monthly differences and after pregnancy were found in weight, chest girth, bust girth, under bust girth, waist girth, and hip girth. Dress form was designed based on the average body measurements of women in their 6th to 10th month of pregnancy. The standard dimensions in the 8th month were 90cm (chest), 94cm (bust), 86cm (under bust), 97cm(waist: most protruding part on the side), and 99cm (hip). Compared with Japan's MAT-9 (for nine months), chest girth was the same, while the Korean waist girth and hip girth were larger by 2cm and 3cm, respectively. The woven fabric blouse was evaluated as having the best appearance, while the knitted fabric one was judged as being more comfortable it terms of functionality. For the pants, the design details of the lowered waist and curved waist belt were more functional. The tailored jacket was the best design for working women in terms of both looks and functionality. To summarize, maternity wear for working women, unlike general maternity clothes, should be designed with consideration for the wearer's somatotype and activity. Elastic materials were appropriate for functionality and dealing with physical changes. With the increasing of working pregnant women, such trials are expected to continue in this research area in order to develop functional maternity wear with multi-purposes such as breast-feeding, wearability after delivery and shielding from microwave.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제19권3호
• /
• pp.175-192
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this study is to provide the characteristics and development direction of K-fashion and to systematize the strategic features performed by government agencies, fashion associations, fashion companies, and other companies to activate K-fashion. This research analyzed K-fashion related articles published in major newspapers and magazines in Korea from the late 1990s to early 2017. The results of the study are as follows. 1. The characteristics of K-fashion are as follows: The first is a trendy and sophisticated design with modern sensibilities, unique designs that reinterpret the latest trends with designer creativity, practical and popular designs that ordinary people can wear comfortably in everyday life. The second is functional and trendy materials. The third is excellent sewing technology. The fourth is rapid turnover of products by quick connections among planning, production and sales. The fifth is a lower price than quality. 2. The direction for K-fashion to pursue was the continuous and ongoing development of the above characteristics and the creation of a 'design with the Korean emotion of its 5,000 year history'. 3. The following projects were carried out to promote K-fashion. 1) Utilization of K-pop, K-drama and other Korean wave content. (1) Holding a fashion concert event that combines Idol's K-Pop performances with fashion shows. (2) Hallyu (Korean wave) star's costume support and design collaboration with Hallyu stars. (3) Collaboration between entertainment companies and fashion companies. 2) Nurturing a global fashion branding project. 3) Business support for overseas expansion of the K-fashion brand. (1) Support project for foreign trade fair participation. (2) Holding a fashion brand fair in Korea. (3) Overseas business support by establishing a showroom and design center 4) Business to discover and nurture new designers