• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.62-78
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• 2005

The modern period was the time that the most radical and extensive social and mental changes were occurring throughout the history, and modernism was prevailing as a general cognition system of people. Modernism, which carries principles of progress, belief in application of scientific technology, worship of reason, ideal of liberty as a col-e value of civilization, was plated as a leading ideology in the realm of society, culture and art In the early 20th century. In this study, the formative characteristics of modernism seen in architecture and fashion are analogized and analyzed in four ways ell the basis of the theory of p. Greenhalgh. First, 'Standardization for mass-production', which is analogized which P. Greenhalgh's 'Decompart-mentalisation', 'Social Morality', and' Technology'. Standardization for mass-production in architecture focuses on the development of a design prototype in order to mass produce; the development of ready-made clothes is actively done ill the fashion area for the same purpose as well. Second, 'Rational functionality' coming from P. Greenhalgh's 'The total work of art' and 'Function'. While rational functionality in architecture puts an emphasis on the rational operation of all the functions in regard to the relation between each part and the whole, rational functionality in fashion call be mainly seen in a dramatic increase in physical activity which could be hardly found before the modernism period. Namely, all the fashion design elements are developed for a certain rational and functional design on each part as well as on the whole in order to greatly increase physical activity. Third, 'the pursuit for genuineness of objects and universality of beauty' is on the analogy of P Greenhalgh's 'Truth', 'Anti-historicism', 'Abstraction', 'Internationalism/Universality'. This idea is adopted in architecture in the form of design of geometrical abstraction. In the same way, design using geometrical abstraction comes to have a significant meaning in fashion of the modernism period. So to speak, modernism architecture and fashion can be reborn to become an inter·national style by giving up the decorative and regional design prevailing before modernism and by expressing universal aesthetics in the form of simplicity and abstraction instead. Fourth, 'Expression of progress through a change in a viewpoint' stems from P. Greenhalgh's 'Progress', 'Transformation of Consciousness', 'Theology'. In architecture, this concept appears by using new construction materials and methods and by representing new aesthetical idea. As a result, it makes it possible for people to make progress for better lives. Like in architecture, new attempts for material application and processing are made in fashion. This gives rise to a general change in a viewpoint related to fashion, so that a flew fashion design which there has never been before can come out.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.175-187
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to recognize the real situation of clothing construction to present the desirable direction to establish more scientific and reasonable themes of the study by analysis of the tendency of the clothing construction study. For this purpose, 402 papers on the theme of clothing construction study were excepted from the first issues to the issues of December in 1999 of Journal of Korea Society of Clothing and Textile, Journal of Korea Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Fiber Society, and Journal of the Human Engineering Society of Korea. I analyzed and classified the theme into eight issues of design related clothing construction, study of body types, study of patterns, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, sewing, and the clothes. The result of the study is follows. 1. The distribution tendency of the clothing construction study by the journal of each society showed that journal of Korean Home Economic is 22.9%, Journal of Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles 17.3%, Research Journal of the Costume Culture 12.2%, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 6.2%. 2. The distribution tendency of the studying issues showed hat study of body types of 29.4%, study of patterns21.9%, fitting of clothing 11.7%, sewing 10.2%, size of apparel 8.5%, and others 7%, protective clothing and functional clothing 6.7%, and design related clothing construction 4.7%. Considering the above result. we can understand that study of body types and patterns are being studied most actively. 3. Regarding the study tendency by academic issues showed that study of construction elements and design application is chiefly centered of the study of design related clothing construction (35.5%), analysis of body types is centered of the study of body, type(46/6%), CAD is centered of the study of patterns (31.1%), and size spec for the ready made patterns is centered of the study of size of apparel(32.4%). As for fitting of clothing, the study was performed in two ways on the changes of he surfaces of human bodies in motion and the functional features of experimental dressing. Regarding the study of sewing study of fusible interlining was mainly performed (36.6%) and regarding the study of protective clothing and functional clothing, study of brassieres and underwear was chiefly performed.