• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.433-438
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• 2005

Seven commercial lining fabrics normally used in a market were selected: plain-weave fabrics with polyester, nylon, rayon and acetate fiber, and polyester textured yarn, in addition, polyester fabrics with plain, twill and satin weave. Then seam strength, seam efficiency, resistance to slippage of yarns and type of seam destruction were examined related to endurance by textiles in sewing capability of the lining fabrics. In results, as tensile strength was greater, seam strength got greater, which shows tensile strength and seam strength have close relationship. Tensile and seam strength of acetate fabric were the least, but seam efficiency was the greatest. It presents that strong tensile and seam strengths do not show high seam efficiency at the same time. Various types of seam destruction have been shown. When tensile strength of the sewing thread was greater than tensile strength of fabric, fabric destruction was occurred before the sewing thread destruction. When tensile strength of the fabric was greater than seam strength, the sewing thread destruction was occurred. Resistance to slippage of yarns got greater as tensile strength of the fabric got greater. The plain-weave fabric, which tensile strength of fabric was smaller, showed the greater resistance to slippage of yarns than twill and satin weave fabrics. The stretch fabric revealed the optimal lining fabric with the greatest resistance to slippage of yarns.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.339-345
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• 2000

The effects of protease and/or lipase on the removal of protein soil and oily soil were investigated in this study. Cotton, rayon, nylon, and PET fabrics were soiled by padding of fresh bovine blood and spotting of mixed artificial sebum evenly. The soiled fabrics were aged at $130^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes. The fabrics were washed by using Terg-O-Tometer at various conditions. Protease and/or lipase were added in the alcohol ethoxylate (AE) detergent solution. The removal efficiency was evaluated by analysis of protein and/or oil on the fabrics before and after washing, respectively. The detergency of protein and/or oil on the fabrics was discussed with enzyme concentration, washing time, washing temperature, pH of washing solution and fiber characteristics. The hydrolysis of protease improved effectively the removal of oil as well as protein by increasing removal of protein-oil mixed soil at the same time. The effect of lipase added detergent solution was slightly shown on the removal of oil and/or protein. The removal of mixed soils from cotton fabrics was very low because of large amount of residual soils caused by the physical characteristics of cotton fiber.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.299-307
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• 2009

The purposes of this study ate to evaluate sensibility performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. The sensibility performances such as sensory, touch preference and buying preference for memory fabrics of the metallic Jacquard fabrics were evaluated, and mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. The correlation between the mechanical properties and the sensibility performance were analyzed. As the metal fiber content increased, the sensory evaluation value of lustered, wrinkly, sandy, rustle and stiff increased, the sensory evaluation value of slippery and damp decreased. As the metal fiber content increased, the touch preference decreased and the buying preference increased. The touch preference had negative correlation with the metal fiber content, but the buying preference had positive correlation with it.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권8호
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• pp.1032-1042
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to measure, compare, and investigate the physical properties of rayon/cotton blend fabrics treated with cellulase and cellulase & specific degeneration silicon and to present basic data which is in development a value-added fabric. The results are as follows. The condition for the treatment of cellulase was at 55$^{\circ}C$, pH 4 and the weight loss increased as the concentration of cellulase and the treated time increased. On treatment with cellulase, the crossectional view & longitudinal view of fiber noticed remarkable crack as weight loss increased and tensile strength and elongation decreased, and pilling was enhanced remarkably. KOSHI was increased, NUMERI and FUKURAMI were decreased as weight loss increased. In the basic characteristic value of clothing wearning, shape stability and drapability were decreased, but air content was improved. On treatment with cellulase & silicon, the degree of damage in the crossectional view & longitudinal view of the fiber reduced. Tensile strength, elongation, moisture regain improved. KOSHI and FUKURAMI were reduced, NUMERI was improved rather than when it was treated with cellulase. Therefore handle was improved. In the basic characteristic value of the clothing wearing, shape stability, air content, drapability were improved.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.123-130
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to examine and to evaluate the wearing performance of pile materials to produce velvet fabrics which have excellent wearing comfort. Acetate velvet, Cuprammonium rayon velvet were combined as textiles for clothing and acetate and viscose rayon were as textiles for lining at the environmental condition of temperature $15^{\circ}C,\;18^{\circ}C,\;21^{\circ}C,\;24^{\circ}C$, relative humidity $50{\pm}5%$ and air velocity 0.25 m/sec. Wearing comfort among 4 materials combinations(Aa, Av, Ra, Rv) was examined and compared. The results are as follows. The investigation of mean skin temperature for environmental temperature and material combinations showed that the mean temperature had a significant difference at the p<0.01 level in accordance with environmental temperature and material combinations.(Aa>Av>Ra>Rv) Moreover, in clothing climate only clothing temperature tended to increase almost linearly but at $24^{\circ}C$ there was no significant difference among textiles for lining compared with the other environmental temperatures. In subjective sensations thermal sensation and comfort sensation showed a significant difference in environmental temperatures and materials.(Aa>Av>Ra>Rv) Though a subject felt warmer, more humid, and more uncomfortable at $24^{\circ}C$ for all of the material combinations comparing with the other temperatures, there was no significant difference in materials.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.135-145
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• 2017

In order to analysis on color difference of yellow natural dyes, I have dyed cellulose and protein fabrics. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. The results from these analyses are as follows : Bud of pagoda tree, Amur cork, and Curcuma showed greenish yellow color, Gardenia Jasminoides showed reddish yellow color. Barberry root showed reddish yellow color with post-mordanting method on cellulose fabric. Moreover, Dupioni silk was dyed in reddish yellow color by Barberry root and Rhubarb. In addition to Chroma index, Gardenia Jasminoides and Curcuma showed clear color overall. However, dyeing rayon and silk by Barberry root, and dyeing silk by Rhubarb showed clear color. Comparing all the results to actual dyed materials, Bud of pagoda tree had small dye uptake, and both ${\Delta}a$ and ${\Delta}b$ value were short which can't recognized the yellow color easily. Dye uptake of Amur cork and Gardenia Jasminoides was small just like Bud of pagoda tree. However, ${\Delta}b$ value order was Gardenia Jasminoides>Amur cork>Bud of pagoda tree. Therefore, Gardenia Jasminoides recognized reddish yellow because of big value of red color and yellow color. In case of Barberry root and Rhubarb which have larger dye uptake, Baberry root recognized yellow color on rayon only, and couldn't recognized yellow color on bleached cotton fabric, ramie, silk, and dupioni silk. Rhubarb recognized yellow color on rayon with pre-mordanting method only, but recognized silk and dupioni silk as brown like color. Moreover, we could not analyze color by dye uptake, Lab, and H(v/c) for Barberry root and Rhubarb. As a result, I think we need to attach color table for the research paper which handled the color of dyeing materials.

• 분석과학
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• 제30권5호
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• pp.270-278
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• 2017

흰색 면(cotton), 폴리에스터(polyester), 레이온(rayon), 나일론(nylon) 천(fabric)에 혈액이 흡수 및 침투되는 특성을 연구하였다. 두께와 직조방법(직물 및 편물)이 다양한 천을 두 번 접어서 천이 4개 층으로 되도록 한 후 여기에 $100{\mu}L$의 혈액을 떨어뜨리고, 이 혈액이 천으로 침투되는 특성을 관찰하였다. 그 결과 혈액이 침투되는 천의 층 수 및 혈액의 모양은 실험에 사용한 천의 섬유 성분, 두께, 직조방법에 따라 달라진다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 혈액을 묻힌 천을 3일 동안 건조한 후 수돗물을 이용해 손빨래하고, 천에 남아있는 잠재혈흔을 Lumiscene으로 증강하여 혈액이 천에 부착되었던 모습과 대조하였다. 그 결과 천의 종류에 따라 혈흔이 세탁되는 특성이 다르게 나타났다. 또한 혈액이 침투되었던 곳의 형광이 주변의 형광보다 강하게 나타나는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 그러나 세탁 과정에서 혈액이 물리적으로 문질러져서 원래 혈액이 부착된 모습과 다른 모습의 형광을 관찰할 가능성이 있다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 천에 부착된 혈흔을 건조시키는 시간에 따른 세탁특성도 관찰하였다. 다양한 천에 $100{\mu}L$의 혈액을 떨어뜨린 후, 0, 1, 12, 24, 72시간 및 7일 동안 건조하고, 이 천을 세탁한 후 Lumiscene으로 혈흔을 증강하였다. 그 결과 폴리에스터를 제외한 모든 천에서 혈액을 건조하는 시간이 길어질수록 혈흔의 형광이 강하게 나타나는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한 천에 따라서는 혈흔을 7일 동안 건조하면 혈액이 부착되었던 곳보다 그 주변에서 형광이 더 강하게 나타나는 현상을 관찰할 수 있었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.149-159
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• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2019

This study examined the cause of the phenomenon of shrinkage in machine-embroidered fabrics, specifically those made of thin and pliable fabrics. Four woven fabrics and two knitted fabrics were selected as samples for analysis. The fabrics selected were silk organza, flax linen, polyester chiffon, cotton batiste, polyester raschel mesh, and cotton jersey. The thickness and drapability of the fabrics were observed and the shrinkage of the various types of embroidered fabrics produced using satin & step stitch techniques were measured. Moreover, the correlation between the shrinkage of the machine-embroidered fabrics and the drapability of the original fabrics was analyzed. Also, the colorfastness of six embroidery yarns was determined. The results of the study are as follows: first, the shrinkage of machine-embroidered fabrics increased at a greater rate than in embroidered knitted fabrics as compared to rates in embroidered woven fabrics. Moreover, in terms of stitch techniques, there was a greater shrinkage rate when satin stitch was applied compared to step stitch. Second, the shrinkage rate of machine-embroidered fabrics decreased when a stabilizer was fused onto the fabric. The shrinkage rate also decreased for fabrics when fused with paper stabilizer compared to those without it, and the rate decreased at a greater amount with paper stabilizer as compared to alginate film. Third, since there was a strong correlation between the shrinkage rate of the embroidered fabric and the drapability ratio of the original fabric, it was generally the case that the more pliable the fabric was, the greater the shrinkage rate was when the fabric was embroidered. Fourth, while the embroidery yarns mainly used in machine-embroidery presented an overall excellent level of colorfastness, there was slight color migration of level 4 to level 5 when using viscose rayon.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.431-440
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to revive the colors of combination dyeing and mixed dyeing with natural dyestuffs. The fabrics used were cotton and rayon. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were indigo, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. The effects of combination dyeing were as follows. First, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, while the surface K/S of cotton was over 15, that of rayon was over 17. Third, the results of the light fastness measurement showed the superiority (by over grade 4) of all the samples, except in the case of rayon fiber sample no. 6 (which had been pre-dyed with indigo five times before being dyed with P. amurense once and then being dyed with C. sappan once). In the color fastness to washing measurement, all fibers showed superiority (by over grade 3~4). In addition, the color fastness to dry cleaning of all fibers was satisfactory or excellent (by over grade 3). Fourth, according to the results of the tensile strength measurement, it tended to decrease in the case of cotton and increase in the case of rayon. Fifth, the results of the density measurement showed that the density of cotton decreased by about 15~20% in the case of warp and 10% in the case of weft for all samples. The density of rayon decreased 20% in the case of warp for all samples and increased 30% in the case of weft for all samples.