• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.5-24
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.6
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• pp.1017-1034
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• 2021

The "Escape the corset" movement raises the question of gender norms in dressing by rejecting the socially established ideal women's clothing. The context is similar to Rational dress of the 19th century, which claimed that women could also wear pants. Cartoons and webtoons reflect the characteristics of each era, including images and stories, and express social problems of the time implicitly and satirically. Thus, this study examined women's clothes expressed in cartoons and webtoons and analyzed their characteristics. The results are as follows. As an expression to the recipient of both clothes, women tried to form their identity through a rational attitude and break away from their embellishment, which was regarded as oppression from society. On the other hand, as an expression of the attitude of others towards the recipient of both clothes, people argued the changed appearance of women as a non-ideal form which should be corrected. This study is significant for proving that the dressing contains gender norms of the time beyond the trends.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.137-149
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• 1993

The concept of style including the external form and internal meaning provides a useful structure to clarify the historical phenomenon on dress. The purpose of this study was to explore surrealism related to the external form and internal meaning and the stylistic change of surrealism through 1930 and 1988 according the linked solution proposed by Brodsky. The results were as follows; 1. In terms of double roots including the external form and the internal meaning on the surrealism of dress, first, the external form was founded to be that each objects having symbolic meaning was dislocated from its original place to dress. Second, the aspects of internal meaning intended to represent not rational and external world but irrational as well as to reveal other nature of object or dress itself. 2. The change of surrealistic style on dress was characterised as "linked solution" change theory than cyclical change theory through the historical data from 1930 to 1988 of documentary sources.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.133-149
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• 2007

Amid a wave of informatization, the world is allowing diverse exchanges and cooperations in the global village to be promoted. And, a change in the life environment and the consumption pattern allows the key word in distribution revolution called 'online' and 'emotion' to be recalled. As the emotion is being positioned as the trend of the new era, this study has its significance in that even the fashion industry desperately requires the emotion marketing aiming at the artistic value and practicality in fashion and the creation in value-added, and requires the development and utilization plan for diverse VMD programs on the rational dress shop, like the successful case of the trendy shop such as America's large bookstore 'Barnes & Noble.' Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to design and suggest the virtually trendy dress shop as one plan of utilizing VMD, by examining about the fashion business environment and about 'emotion trend' according to the consumer purchase needs, and through researching into the cases of the trendy dress shops with the emotion marketing. The virtual trendy dress shop 'Muse,' which was proposed as its research result, was designed with having the main concept as urban naturalism, which points to the urban and sophisticated coordination, and to the simple personality and rational value, as one method of utilizing VMD in the differentiated dress shop. And, it is desired to be performed the researches on the development and the utilization plan for diverse VMD programs in the dress shop down the road.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.114-129
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to analyze the effects of consumer's need for uniqueness, whether or not using ALPHA-NUMERIC Brand Name and types of fashion goods upon the consumer's attitude. The experimental design of this study is three-ways complex factors design of 2 (Consumer's Need for Uniqueness : High vs Law) ${\times}$ 2 (Whether or not to use ALPHA-NUMERIC Brand Name : Used brand vs Non-used brand) ${\times}$ 2 (Types of fashion goods: Rational fashion goods vs Emotional fashion goods) The conclusions are as follows. 1. The interaction effect upon a favorite level according to consumer's need for uniqueness, whether or not using ALPHA-NUMERIC brand name and types of fashion goods upon the consumer's attitude is proven significant. For the group where customer's need for uniqueness is low, when ALPHA-NUMERIC brand name is not used, the favorableness of rational fashion good, a parka is lower than that of emotional fashion good, one-piece dress. However, there is no significant difference in favorableness by types of fashion goods when ALPHA-NUMERIC brand name is used. At the group with high need for uniqueness, while there is no significant difference in favorableness when ALPHA-NUMERIC brand name is not used, the favorableness of parka is higher than that of one-piece dress when ALPHA-NUMERIC brand name is used. 2. The interaction effects upon purchase intention according to consumer's need for uniqueness, whether or not using ALPHA-NUMERIC brand name and types of fashion goods are proven significant. For the group where customer's need for uniqueness is low, there is no significant different in the favorableness whether or not ALPHA-NUMERIC brand name is used. On the other hand, the group with high need for uniqueness, if ALPHA-NUMERIC brand name is used, the intention to purchase parka is higher than the intention to purchase one-piece dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.124-131
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• 2011

Modernity is commonly defined as a reflection of the features of modern society based on the historical experience of the West. As such, modernity includes involvement with political, economic, and social changes, a changing world-view, and changing trends in equality, gender roles, a desire for "the new," consumption, distribution based on mass production, and rational reform in fashion and dress. First and foremost, however, modernity in costume has been driven by the functional requirements of industrial capitalism. But while modernity has popularly been regarded as some sort of universal standard, in fact the West and the other societies have vastly different, unique, and particular experiences with their own respective histories of modernization. For this reason, cultural changes in the modernization process should be-indeed, must be-analyzed in the context of a country's own unique historical and cultural circumstances, rather than through the prism or strict adaptation of generalized Western concepts of modernization. Moreover, a "periodization" of the modernization of fashion and dress can be established by examining the characteristics of modernity in costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.7
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• pp.1035-1043
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• 2000

This paper studied the excavated costumes of the Go's of Jang Taek that had been found in Kwangju metropolitan city in 1986. The excavated costumes mainly show Po(포) including Chopni(첩리), Dapho(답호), Danryung(단령), Jikryung (직령). In addition, there are some kinds of trousers, hat, korean socks. The meanings of excavated costumes of the Go's of Jang Taek are the followings: 1. They offer the important research materials to studying of general dress. 2. They offer actual proof materials of 15-16 century in opposition to depending on documentary records. 3. They offer the useful informations on the form, textile, dyeing because of good condition. 4. They offer the variety of Po that many persons weared at that times. 5. They offer the practical and rational construction by folding pleats and needlework. 6. They did not quilted padded clothes in comparison with other dress at that times. 7. They offer the important materials on the trousers. In the near future, we will study excavated costumes on dyeing, textile structure, trousers formation and so on.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.75-87
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• 2002

The nineteenth century was a watershed - the extreme point of difference in the style of fashion dress and in the roles men and women played in society. This conviction has its roots in the socioeconomic changes of the 19th century and the industrial revolution, and the new working bourgeoisie' value, fashion and taste were on the rise. The bourgeois, who was not considered as having infallible taste, was looking for its own style, while on the other hand it was competing with the nobility. Therefore bourgeois' own etiquette and taste were appeared. There was ideals which the middle classes were hungry for, and it became the basis of judging an individual. The bourgeois tried to get social approval and used fashion was the mean of it. Bourgeois women fashion has a funtion as a complete symbol of the status, wealth and leisure in a patriachal society. Not only the Bourgeois tried to control themselves and to achieve the virtue of moderation, chastity and obedience by the restrictive costume, but also extravagant and cumbersome dresses has a kind of compensative funtion against a sober and simple men's dress. There was a reformative movement to break out of the legal, economic and social restrictions within the confines of respectable Victorian Society. The process of reform was long and slow for not only did laws be changed but the barriers of prejudice in a society convinced of man s mental and physical superiority had to be overcome. But even though there were many difficulties, a small number of progressive women challenged the social recognition and role of women and decisively refused the restrictive and ostentative fashion. Victorian costume was also criticized in the medical and aesthetic aspect for their impracticality. As a result, more funtional and practical women's clothes has appeared, but it have resulted in a peculiar hybrid of traditional female attire in combination with the more uncomfortable aspects of men's clothes. However it was becoming an essential look for new women who were the equals of men and wanted to be treated as such.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.115-132
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• 2007

The purpose of this research is that to study of musical performer's purchasing behavior, satisfaction and design preference, and to give the information for better performance costume market based on that result. The target for the survey is limited only for above 4th grade female students and have experienced more than three times of performances. Total 364 questionnaires are used for this research. The SPSS was used for the analysis. The results were, first, in the survey of place of purchasing, specialty shop for musical performance shop was the most. The most group for the budget that they spent was under 100,000 Won. Rational price for costume would be 150,000-300,000 Won. Most people purchase costume before 2 weeks and compare 3-4 stores mostly. There were not many complaints about being comfort for costume itself. The preference for costume was different depends on not only scale of performance but also whether solo, duet or trio or more. Also harmony with other person costume was most consideration factor when they perform duet or more. For the choice of shop factor following were considered the most important; various selections, kindness of sales persons and possibility for trying various costumes. However, locations of shop or delivery service were not important relatively. For the choice of costume factor, design color, comfort and functionality were considered the most important but price, quality and decoration were not. For 'the satisfaction after purchase costume' factor, people's opinions, best appearance on the stage and meeting image with themselves were considered the most important. Second, on the subject for 'design preference of costume based on type of performance', people chose different color of dress depends on what types of performance. In case of solo, they prefer vivid primary color; in case of trio or more, they prefer black; in case of duet, they prefer pastel tone. As for preference of sleeve design, all of them prefer non-sleeve type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.1
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• pp.119-128
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• 2001

This study gives information for the enterprise to map out a positive marketing strategy and facilitate a new product development by researching and analyzing the specific character of the high income woman-brackets. In order to do that, based upon the materials of the National Statistical office, I made a selection of the high income brackets, subdividing their scholastic ability into four serfs. The subject of the study was the women from twenties to sixties among customers of a high class dress shop in Taejeon. I made up 600 questionnaires for them. using 441 of these for the statistical analysis and making available the correlation analysis, the primary factor analysis, and $X^2$-test. This study is classified into the type of women customers purchasing clothes who are the high-income brackets. Intended to study a special quality of purchasing according to income. 1. The purchasing manner of the high-income brackets customers is exposed the luxurious vain purchasing manner, the rational reasonable manner, and idiosyncrasy individual manner in order 1) The consumer of the high-income brackets in general prefer to a high class clothes. In the contrast, low-income brackets prefer to rational reasonable consumption in spending money on clothes. 2) The favorite consumption manner of the high income brackets is the luxurious vain purchasing manner. This consumption values the more symbolic means the things show than owing the goods. 2. The higher standard of education and younger tends to be high in the luxurious, vain purchasing. 3. The unreasonable purchasing show an high irrelation at the impulse buying arid self-satisfaction. 4. Self-satisfaction shows the highest interrelation than any other variations in the concern of clothes. 5. The symbolic images which exerts an influence upon purchasing manner are the notable elements of constituting as growing older. 6. The high standard of education prefers to the rational resonable purchasing, but on the other hand shows a high rate at the unreasonable individual purchasing manner.