• Title/Summary/Keyword: purl knit

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A Study on the Design of Knit be based Knitting Technique -Focused on the Exhibition- (니트의 편직기법에 의한 디자인 연구 -작품제작을 중심으로-)

  • 이선희;이순홍
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.1
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    • pp.99-116
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    • 2003
  • Knit is classified into two such as basic texture and applied one according to knitting principle, and the basic texture of weft knitting consists of single knit. rib knit, purl knit and interlock knit. The basic texture of warp knitting consists of double knit texture, double code knit texture and double vandyke knit texture. Fourteen costumes were produced with eighteen (18) different types and twenty four (24) raw materials, and we were trying to show a wide range of costumes produced with knitting by making two different brands at random and making different designs depending on four seasons. Knitting technique is very important element in that it allows special surface effectiveness and decides the characteristic of knitting materials. Knit designer plays very important roles such as selection of raw thread, deciding knitting technique and type of knitting machine in designing the knit. Therefore, the knit designer requires the ability to utilize the function of knitting machine to the maximum, the effort to acquire the variety of knitting technique, develop the new knitting technique and for the improvement of knitting design.

Development of Three-Dimensional Knit Models through Rib & Purl Structures (리브편 조직과 펄편 조직을 이용한 입체 니트 구조의 개발)

  • Choi, Won-Seok;Lee, Youn-Hee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.18 no.1
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    • pp.109-117
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    • 2010
  • Knit fabrics are created on diverse machines with diverse knit loops and conditions to make different patterns and fabric types. Dimensional modifications of knit fabrics can also be achieved by numerous methods such as different knit-loop structures, different types of yarns, or different finishing processes including heat setting, steaming, chemical treatment et cetera. This research develops and explores sophisticated three-dimensional knit fabrics by combining the several different knit stitches including rib and purl. This study focuses on 3D knit models created on modern electronic weft (flat V-bed) knitting machines which have capability of individual needle selection. Several samples of the 3D knitted fabrics are also examined in this research. This research furthermore suggests new types of knitted fashion garment made by using the interesting physical effects.

A Study on the Aesthetic Characteristics of Korean Knit Fashion (니트 패션의 미적 특성에 관한 연구 - 패션 잡지에 나타난 국내 니트 디자인을 중심으로 -)

  • Choi, Hae-Joo
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.10 no.3
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    • pp.61-71
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    • 2008
  • Knit wear with comfortable feeling of wearing and various coordinations gives new values to the modern people, who seek activities and individualities, and the demand for knit wear is on the rise. This article aims to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Korean knit fashion. Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in Korea from 2005 to 2007 had been analyzed. The knitting techniques, and designing characteristics and aesthetic values of Korean knit fashion had been studied. The major conclusions of the study are the following: 1. Korean knit fashion applies various knitting techniques. The knitting techniques used in Korean knit fashion are hand-knitting technique, crochet techniques, lace techniques, plain stitch, rib stitch, and purl stitch technique. 2. Decorations by trimming and matching with different textile materials are used more frequently than decorations by knit material itself. Decorating methods include fringes, spangle, beads, Rhine stone, motif and embroidery decorating. Matching with different textile materials made contrasting decoration effect. 3. Patterms by knitting structure and by arranging colors are applied. Cubic effect by knitting structure patterns, and geometric patterns by arranging colors are emphasized. 4. The formative feature beauties are natural beauty, feminine beauty, and decorative beauty. Korean knit fashion has developed creative and decorative designs through various knitting techniques and decorating techniques. As individual activities may be increased in the future, the designs and applications of knit fashion may be diversified.

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A Study on the Design of Women's Knitwears - Focusing on Stitch and the Handcraft Ornament Technique - (여성(女性) 니트웨어 디자인에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 조직(組織)과 수공예적(手工藝的) 장식기법(裝飾技法)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Kim, Hae-Young;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.131-144
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the type of stitch and designs of knitwears using handcraft ornament techniques. This paper will also go on to develop and merchandize high value generated by design development. Knit is largely divided into weft knit stitch and warp knit stitch which are respectively woven by weft knitting machine and warp knitting machine. For clothing, circular knit and flat knit are frequently used while plain stitch, rib stitch and purl stitch are perceived as the basic stitches. Denbigh stitch, cord stitch, atlas stitch, which belong to tricot stitch, are the basic of warp knit stitch. There are also numerous fancy fabrics adapting the previously mentioned stitches and these are made into solid pattern and yarn dyed pattern. The handcraft ornament techniques in knitwears design are embroidery, beads, sequin, stone, printing, applique and fringe, etc. By applying these techniques thus creative expression, which cannot be expressed in other fashion items, is feasible. The women's knitwears are tries by mixed and various techniques, develope to high value knitwears, escaping from simple and practical items.

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Study of the Relation between Quality and Image of the WholeGarment Knit Structured Patterns for High Sensible knit Design (1) - On mechanical property to armhole connecting part (Machi) - (고감성 니트디자인을 위한 무봉제 니트 조직패턴의 성능과 이미지간의 연구 (1) - 암홀 접속부(마치)의 역학적 특성을 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Yoo-Jin;Choi, Won-Jung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.16 no.1
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    • pp.52-68
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    • 2012
  • To achieve the aim of this study, 9 different types of samples were made to examine mechanical property according to structured pattern and type of Machi of pullover armhole of WholeGarment(seamless knitwear). With respect to samples, from which comparisons are made and anaylzed among basic characteristics of material, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation due to repeated extension of armhole connecting part, the following conclusions could be obtained. It's revealed that the tensile strength of Machi part as being armhole connecting part of samples is more affected by Machi type than pattern structure. Of Machi types, it showed stronger tensile strength in the order of Normal(Normal Machi)< Machi_B(unilateral Machi)

Comparative Study of the Mechanical Property of Shaping and WholeGarment Knit Wear - Focused on Armhole Part in Knit Pullover - (봉제형과 무봉제형 니트웨어 제품의 역학적 특성 비교 연구 - 니트 풀오버의 암홀부분을 중심으로 -)

  • Choi, Wonjung;Lee, Yoojin
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.179-196
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    • 2013
  • This research is about the mechanical properties of knit pullover of Shaping and WholeGarment according to structured patterns and form of the armhole. For the study 12 samples are prepared under different conditions and through comparative analysis of each sample's armhole around armpit in basic properties, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation after repeated extensions, the conclusion is as follows. As a result of comparing basic properties of structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, in all structured patterns Shaping samples weighed more. According to the comparative analysis of tensile strength & elongation of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, Machi on both sides of WholeGarment samples showed the highest strength. By comparing outcome of residual elongation by structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, both types were observed to have the residual elongation increase in the order of Plain

A Study on the Nordic Sweaters (노르딕 스웨터에 관한 연구)

  • 이선명
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.4 no.2
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    • pp.139-161
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    • 2002
  • This study investigates the characteristics of Nordic sweaters works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) development of Nordic sweaters, 2) the characteristics of Nordic sweaters industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns, 4) the symbolic meaning of the designs in the Nordic sweaters and patterns. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. It was also developed in Scandinavian regions which lead the fashion in modern days. Scandinavian knitting techniques have been diffused into the east coast of England and Northern Europe by Vikings. 2. Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. 1) Norway ; Simple and geometric Norwegian patterns are classified into three groups of motifs: (a) the motifs of cross, diamond, X, and swastika (equation omitted). (b) the motifs of human figures, animals and birds, (c) floral motifs (especially eight-petal roses). Their use of color is also simple, and is limited to more than two colors. (2) Sweden ; Swedish patterns are colorful and geometric. They are characterized by features such as brocade, complex embroidery, and contrast of red and black colors. They also show Guernsey patterns. Initials and production years were knitted in sweaters which have different patterns in their trunks and sleeves. 3) Denmark ; The Danish pattern is the purl stitch knitted against the stockinette stitch. The technique is used to copy woven damask motifs. The patterns are seen most clearly when they are knit with smooth yarn. The Faeroe sweaters are the representative work of Danish knitting. Faeroe knitting, incorporates stranded pattern and is knit in the round, either with circular needles. 4) Finland ; Finnish patterns are similar to Norwegian patterns. Finnish knitted work show very colorful, variety and free-flowing geometric patterns. 5) Iceland ; Icelandic knitting shows original ribbon pattern. Lope sweater is the representative work. 3. The traditional knitting patterns not only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns. In short, the knitted work in the Nordic sweaters served the function of admiring the beauty of nature and symbolizing various meanings. The unique designs and colors of the knitted work reflected the characteristics of the culture those works belonged to. This study also turns our attention to the issue of how the traditional colors and designs of the knitted work can contribute to the development of modern designs, and by doing so, if makes us realize the importance of knitted works in modern society.

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