• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권10호
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• pp.1552-1563
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• 2009

This paper investigates the color rank system of the Wonsam, ceremonial topcoat, worn as a court formal costume of the Joseon dynasty by analyzing the court costume system and the actual examples of wearing. The research shows that there were some discrepancies of the color rank of the Wonsam between the court costume system and the actual wearing examples. There were red, purple, blue, green, and black Wonsam in the Joseon dynasty. The color rank of the Wonsam is as follows: the Queen's color was red, the Crown Princess's was green and purple, the royal concubine's was usually green and blue, but they could wear purple when they won the King's favor. A prince's wife's was usually green, but she wore blue and purple if she became the mother of the King. The princess's was green, and the court lady's was green, blue, and black. In most cases, the textiles of Wonsam were made by silk with patterns, even though Joseon dynasty was ordered to use silks without patterns in court weddings and funeral ceremonies to avoid extravagance.

• 복식
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• 제59권9호
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• pp.87-96
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• 2009

Dangui is a formal dress of the wives of high officers and royalty in Chosun Dynasty and it was worn as a day dress in palace and a semi-ceremonial dress in upper-class households. Among the remains of Dangui a double-layered Dangui was found in which two sets of Dangui were combined to be worn as a single piece. The double-layered Dangui consists of an Over-Dangui and an Under-Dangui. The results of the examination of the remains for the Over-Dangui are as follows. As lone as the colors of the remains are identifiable, all of the Over-Dangui were green, whereas the Under-Dangui and lining materials were red. The textile was mostly in woven silk with pattern and it was frequently decorated with golden wefts or foils. A breast embroidery with phoenix and a dragon embroidery were also found. Such Dangui was worn mostly by the high members of the king's palace including the queen, crown princess, bastard princess, and monarch. There were two exceptions of wearing Dangui outside the king's palace. A simple Under-Dangui was made to enable a comfort fit of the two sets of Dangui and the suture was partially sewn. With three doth strings and cuffs, two pieces of Dangui were eventually assembled into one piece of clothing. Differences between the remains and the documents were also found in regards to textile and wearers of Dangui.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.387-403
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop a new torso pattern for the schoolgirl of a tween generation who had different somatotype from children and teenagers. The subjects in this study were female elementary school students of fifth or sixth grade. Through a sensory evaluation of four existing torso patterns, the first research torso pattern was developed. Drafting methods of each item, which closed to the optimum value three, were selected. The differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified through a Wilcoxon's ranked sum test. The final research torso pattern was developed through adjusting the drafting methods according to the deviation from the optimum value three. The schoolgirl of a tween generation is at the time to show the remarkable breast development compared with a waist circumference, so the bust drafting was defined as B/4+ 1.25cm separately front and back. The drafting of a waist circumference was defined as W/4+1cm separately front and back which taken the ease amounts of the somatotype into consideration of the schoolgirl of a tween generation. A princess line was used instead of a waist dart because their hip circumference was more developed than a waist circumference. The crossed amount of a front hemline was 0.3cm and that of a back hemline was 0.7cm. and the princess line of the position was drawn with a straight line at a right angle of the back waistline. The armhole depth was determined B/4-1cm in consideration of the aesthetic and the trend, although the effective movement of upper arm was required.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.95-104
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• 2018

This study classified the figurative features of the raglan sleeves presented in the Spring and Summer Collections and Fall and Winter Collections abroad in 2010 and 2018 and analyzed the production methods and patterns of the classified raglan sleeves. The analysis results are described below. The raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends were classified into Type H, Type A, Type O and Type Y per shape. The production features of raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends included the cutting lines in various shapes, a flounce that made shoulders look wider, and decorations such as gathers, studs, punching, slits, pleats and tucks. The raglan sleeve design was classified into Yoke Raglan, Armhole Princess Raglan, Semi Raglan, Gathered Raglan, Pleats Raglan, Cowl Raglan, Origami Raglan, Circular Curved Raglan, Capes Raglan and Constructive Design Raglan and the patterns per design were presented. For creative and experimental clothing by the analysis of the features of raglan sleeve structure, a variety of configuration methods need to be developed and implemented. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles as the basis for further study on the configuration methods of raglan sleeves. This study will be used in various ways as education materials on sleeve patterns in the educational field. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of raglan sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권5호
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• pp.907-928
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• 2023

This study selects imperial clothing items for experiential learning for children aged 5 to 7, presents the pattern design process for each, and proposes a production process. We chose costume items with evident characteristics and specific uses, ensuring they did not overlap. The selection considered the need for representative imperial clothing and the diversity of children's experiences. Ultimately, we produced four costumes : emperor, empress, prince, and princess. In terms of shape, color, material, and pattern, by referring to relics and photographic materials, we developed the costume for experience to emphasize the traditional beauty of the imperial costume of the Korean Empire. Moreover, we enhanced the convenience and efficiency of the clothing for children by developing sizes and details that considered various physique conditions.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.861-875
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• 2015

This study examines the formative characteristics of Fold architecture and how its properties are shown in the fashion of the modern work of Issey Miyake through analysis. In this research, the Fold classification criteria for analysis features that appeared in Issey Miyake fashion features were established through research literature on Fold architecture and leading research. Empirical data collection was conducted for Issey Miyake's work and collection by collecting photo materials, and design concepts and the results are analyzed in terms of features. Study ranges of Issey Miyake's creative design development are Pleats Please, A-POC, 132.5 project, and collections from 2000 to 2014. The conclusion is as follows. First, design concepts presented in the Issey Miyake fashion features of Fold are Hybrid, topology, and uncertainty. Hybrid look for the meaning of fashion, which is the interaction between the wearer and garments. The concept of topology designs clothing, focusing on interrelationship of the body and clothing, and pays no attention to absolute size or the form of the clothing. The concept of uncertainty is an uncertain form that is infinitely expandable because all the elements have openness and uncertainty due to the determined incomplete state by the creator. Second, in the results presented in the Issey Miyake fashion features is the destruction of the boundary and diagram form. The destruction of the boundary is free from traditional clothing. The diagram form is a geometric form which does not create a Dart or Princess line.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.129-142
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• 2021

This study aims to identify the perception of New-Hanbok one-piece dresses that female consumers have purchased and to analyze the design preference based on design types and brands. Analysis was conducted on New-Hanbok brand websites, and additional research was carried out through a survey of 402 women in their 20s and older. The survey consisted of 36 questions, which were divided into categories including pattern, color, material, and recognition of the one-piece dress. The research results are as follows. First, the preferred design form of the New-Hanbok one-piece dress was long length, medium fit, princess line, round git, rectangular git, regular width git, V neckline, regular width dongjeong, front closing with a wide overlap of the chest are a, narrow goreum, a skirt part with moderate crease spacing and number of pleats, A-line skirt silhouette, long and narrow sleeves, diagonal shoulder line, and a cuff at the end of each sleeve. Second, the preferred colors of the New-Hanbok one-piece dress were bright, neutral, or light and were predominately monochromatic Third, the preferred fabric conveyed a contemporary atmosphere through its print pattern. The most favored fabric material was cotton. Through this study, more systematic design development research should be carried out focusing on the current situation and identifying problems, thereby improving traditional culture.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제20권10호
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• pp.284-295
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• 2019

셀러브리티들은 한 시대의 지배적인 문화를 형성하기도 하며, 새로운 유행을 선도할 수 있는 영향력을 가진 대상이다. 서울 패션 위크에 참석하는 국내 여성 셀러브리티들은 자신만의 패션 미학을 대중들에게 노출함으로써 패션 리더로서의 이미지를 구축하기도 하며, 컬렉션을 개최하는 패션디자이너들의 브랜드 홍보 및 판매를 촉진시키는 결과를 창출한다. 본 연구는 최근 5년간 서울 컬렉션에 나타난 여성 셀러브리티들의 패션 스타일의 분석을 토대로 여성 셀러브리티들의 패션 경향을 파악하는데 목적이 있다. 내용분석에 따른 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 직선형의 스트레이트 실루엣, 무채색의 활용, 문양이나 장식이 없는 경우가 높은 비중을 차지하고 있음에 따라 셀러브리티들은 모던하면서도 미니멀한 스타일을 선호하는 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 슬림 실루엣과 프린세스 실루엣, 원피스 드레스나 스커트의 착용, 부드러운 소재나 러플의 장식을 통하여 전통적인 여성미를 드러내는 페미닌 스타일을 선호하고 있었으며, 원피스 드레스에 재킷을 매치한 형태 또한 다수 나타남에 따라 남성미가 절충된 시크 페미닌 스타일로의 변화를 시도하고 있는 것으로 나타났다. 셋째, 박시 실루엣, 화려한 컬러들이 믹스된 멀티 컬러, 반짝이는 소재와 그래픽이나 레터링의 문양, 다수의 디테일이 높은 비중을 차지하고 있음에 따라 유행의 선도자로서의 강렬한 존재감을 드러내는 맥시멀 스타일을 추구하는 것으로 나타났다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.104-116
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• 2014

This study investigated the jacket preferences and actual fit according to body image perception of female university students in their early twenties, using a survey questionnaire method to analyze areas of dissatisfaction and improvements based on wearing experience. On the relationship between jacket and body image perception, female students with poor body image expressed the highest rate of "not satisfied" with purchase, which was significant. On buying preferences, the "Internet" was the primary place of purchase and "design" of jacket had highest consideration on the decision to buy. "Princess with a cinched - in waist" was the most preferred silhouette, and the most preferred length was "below the hip line." The most preferred cut was "basic," a jacket with a "tailored-collar of notched lapel shape," and "2-buttons." On discomfort and improvement of jacket fitness, students were most dissatisfied with "arm hole." The studies of production of a jacket which fitness and activities is both considered for female university students in their early twenties who use clothes to make them look more like their ideal body image.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.75-84
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• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.