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단추에 관한 연구 -19, 20세기를 중심으로- (The Study on the Buttons (centering around 19th-20th Centuries))

  • 이영란
    • 복식
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    • 제22권
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    • pp.263-276
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    • 1994
  • The achievement of notable social reoforms attained during the period of 19th and 20th centuries needlessly speaking remodelded the social environmental into several different patterns such as :1) high industrialization 2) propensity to consume 3) up graded overall social stands. Accordingly the industrial world of the but-tons too established the mess production syhstem by breaking from convention of hand-craft work of 17th century. The raw materials used in the production line on buttons during the 20th century are almost all-kind of materials one can possibly named including cheap plastic which enabled production lines to produce cheaper but higher productivities of the buttons being produced, The design (incused design) used in the 19-20h centuries are : men landscape, sports features, birds, livestocks, bugs, or geomatric features, tec, 1, The classification o f the buttons by materials Techniques shapes colors marking (Incused design) used in the productionof buttons in the England United States of America Laska Italy france Denmark Japan and India are categolizzed as : natural raw materials and syntetical resines. 1) Of the natural raw materials used are : Matal Enamel Iodine Agate, Coral, Green jade(Jasper) Granite, Wood, Ivory, Horn and bone etc. 2) The sythetical resin used in the button in-dustries are : Artificial jewell glass Acrylic material Styroform Celluloid and Nylon etc. 2. The thecnique quoted in producing buttons are hand craft work inlay work precision casting press mosic dye etching, processing, engraving and embossed carving etc. 3. The major designs used in the buttons in -dustries are : Round shape however elliptical column angular and edge shape often used. 4. The colors used are : The multi-colors were highly used than mono-colored materials such as : Adjoining Color and Contrast Color. The highest consideration to be considered in choosing the colors for the buttons are harmonization and matching factor with the garment or dresses to be wore. 5. The major design(incused design) on the buttons are embodiment and the design were also used in order of abstractive-combination abstractive with has offers much surprising. The button industries during the 19th and 20th centuries were not only the determination factors those can judge the value of self-pride of Nation and which were far beyond the in-dustrial arts in those days but also highly refelected and influenced by cultural sense ideology and self-pride of the Nation of those period. The followings are details of the role of the buttons categolized in the order of functional ornamental and symbolical aspects : 1. The functional role : The functional role of the buttons were simply designed for dress how-ever the buttons beyond from this role of function now a days. 2. The ornamental role : The ornamental role of he button beyond from this role of the button were effectuated by : 1) shape materials colors 2) technique locations size and design (incused design) 3) The ramaterials used for buttons shall not be over looked because it is highly depends on the taste sense and combination of harmony with the garment to be wore. 4) The color of the buttons are made well contrasted with the color of garments just as in the case of other artistical area such as matchs with the color of garment of contrast with brigtness of colors contrasted as complementary color and so and so. 5) The technique being adoped are: precision casting press handcraft inlay work etching mosic etc,. Since the buttons are no longer a simple catching devise used to fasten together the different part of the dress but now it has formed own and occupied the independent role in the garment or dresses location can be de-termined and varying depending on the ideas of designers. The size of the buttons has no specific limits, However the variation has widely dependined on the entire circumperence rhythm contrast harmonization of the garments. 3. The symbolical role : Since the button is no longer a just a simple devise for catching and fastening device used fastening together the different part of the garments but now were built a independent area as major part of the Garment and well reflected all kinds of occupations political background cultural as-pect etc. on the buttons. The design of buttons in the western circles are more simplified but they are polished looks and their techniques of manufacturing are comination of both machanis and handcraft. The colors used in the buttons are pretty well harmonized with garment(dress). Almost all kind of materials can be used in the but-tons however materials used in the buttons are : Bone of livestocks ivory, turtle shell are no longer used because the prevention of cruely of animal. On the contraly the level of buttons indus-try of Korea is far to reach and catch up with the level of western circles. It is highly suggested therefore the but-tons industrial field of Republic of Korea shall place and encouragement in producing beter industrial environment of the buttons based on the traditional and cultural aspect of republic of Korea to produce both manufacturing of qulified and best designed and colored buttons.

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'낭자(娘子)농악'과 '소녀(少女)농악'을 통해본 여성 농악예인의 활동 (Nong-ak Artist's Activities seen from the perspective of "Maiden's (娘子) Nong-ak" and 'Girls' (少女) Nong-ak")

  • 박혜영
    • 공연문화연구
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    • 제32호
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    • pp.209-241
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    • 2016
  • '낭자군(娘子軍')과 더불어 '여성농악'이 탄생했다. 본고에서는 남성들의 전유물이나 다름없던 농악의 주체로서 여성이 등장한 내력, 특히 국극단 출신 여성농악예인의 출현이 주목된다. 이 연구에서는 낭자농악대와 소녀농악대의 활동 내력에 대하여, 새로이 발굴한 기사자료들을 전면에 제시하고 실증적으로 다루었다. 본고에 소개하는 '여성 농악예인'들은 기존에 알려진 남원여성농악단 성립 이전의 여성 농악인들과, 그 이후의 세대들을 아우른다. 여성 특유의 매력을 발산하며 인기를 누린 예인들은 각종 농악경연에 참가하고 포장걸립을 전전했다. 여성농악인들은 우도농악 명인들로부터 전수를 받아 기량을 갖추고, 화려한 복색으로 이목을 끌었다. 농악계의 여성들은 특히 시대의 흐름을 간파하여 활동무대를 넓히고, 다양한 장르와 융합하면서 융통성과 순발력을 발휘했다. 여성 농악인들은 세대와 성별, 지역과 국가의 경계를 넘나들며 활동했다. 소녀부터 기혼녀에 이르기까지 팀원으로 편성될 수 있었고, 때로는 어린 소년들을 영입하거나, 원로 남성농악인들과 연대하기도 했다. 또한 이들은 지역을 넘어, 국내외의 무대를 누비면서, 해외 순방에도 박차를 가했다. 특히 어린 소녀농악인들은 한국문화의 상품성을 선보이고, '순결한 농악예술무대'를 장식하는 문화적 매개자로 동원되기도 했다. 이들은 스스로의 활동에 대한 실리와 경제적 이윤을 추구하거나, 정치적 선동을 할 수 없는 '천사 같이 춤추는 예쁜 인형'이나 다름없었고, 그 후원자는 국내외 정계 인사들이었다. 여성농악인들은 국내외 전반에 걸쳐 각계각층의 인사들과 교류하면서 농악의 저변 확대에 기여했다. 해외로 파견된 소녀들의 농악공연이 대개 어린이들이나 학생들 위주였던 반면, 국내에서 기성세대와 연합하여 공연활동을 하던 소녀들은 그저 농악이 좋아서 여성농악단에 입단하여 기예를 습득하고, 공연하며 실전 경험을 쌓으면서 스스로 입지를 다져갔다. 해방 이후 낭자농악, 소녀농악이라는 이름을 걸고 농악의 무대화를 선도한 여성예인들은 대중적 인지도를 얻어 농악의 저변 확대에 기여했다. 사당패, 협률사, 낭자농악대, 소녀농악대, 여성농악단 등 한 세기를 풍미한 여성 농악예인들은, 농악판에 팽배하던 '남존여비(男尊女卑)'의 관습을 뒤틀고 농악문화의 새 전통을 일군 주인공들이다.