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A Contextual Study of the Pluralization of Sexuality Represented in Mainstream Fashion and Anti-Fashion Since the Late $19^{th}$ Century (19세기 후반 이후 주류패션과 반패션에 표현된 성의 다원화에 관한 맥락적 연구)

  • Choi, Kyung-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.5 s.114
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    • pp.166-182
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to reinterpret sexuality represented in fashion since the latter half of the 19th century in a contextual view, on the basis of Foucauldian idea of post-structural sexuality. As for research methodology, literary research was undertaken from the conception of sexuality to a historical review of the culture and dress. Foucault maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses in a specific historical context. In contextual approach sexual ideology codified in fashion since the latter 19C shows the following aspects: First, the traditional sexual ideology in the latter 19C is a capitalist value, which gives a priority to bourgeois man's profits, and the Victorian discourses of sexuality constructs the dichotomized fashion of the period. Next, the former half of the $20^{th}$ C is regarded as the period of conformity rather than opposition with various alternatives appropriated to the mainstream, so the traditional sexual ideology in fashion of this period is still preserved. Finally, in post-capitalism period of the latter 20C a variety of anti-fashion visualized plural sexuality from the enormous oppositional discourses. Although it doesn't all mean deconstruction of sexuality in fashion by the anti-fashion re-appropriated without oppositional meanings, pluralization of sexuality implies dynamics of sexual discourses in the next historical period. As a result, fashion since the latter 19C has been changed as a means for expressing age and sexual desire out of gender and class. And mainstream fashion in even postmodern period keeps the modern value on the center of the hegemonic heterosexual masculinity though the increase of Androgynous Femininity in women's fashion may connote the meaning of femininity. The plural sexuality represented in fashion has a contextual flexibility, thus sexuality floats with a specific socio-cultural context and fashion represents a masquerade as an identity vehicle.

Socio-semiotic Analysis of Plural Sexuality represented in Modern Fashion (II) (현대패션에 표현된 다원적 성에 관한 사회기호학적 분석 (II))

  • Choi, Kyung-Hee;Kim, Min-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.4 s.113
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    • pp.126-142
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    • 2007
  • The second part of this study is to typify plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and ultimately to infer sexual ideology codified in modern fashion by a framework of this study, the socio-semiotic model. From this, sexuality represented in modern fashion was typified as follows: in women's fashion Traditional Femininity, Glamor Femininity, Androgynous Femininity, Babydoll Femininity and Genderless sexuality, while in men's fashion Traditional Masculinity, Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity and Genderless sexuality. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, modern fashion has been changed from a means expressing gender and class into a sign vehicle representing the new ruling system of age and sexual desire. The binary oppositional sexuality on center of man in the 19 C capitalist period has been gradually pluralized towards the post-capitalist period. Next, mainstream society in Korea is still positioned in the traditional heterosexuality, keeping the vertical power relationship between man and woman even in the post-modern period. However, the fact that both Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity acquire the position of dominant femininity connotes the change of modern femininity. Finally, plural sexuality represented in modern fashion has family resemblance and it shows contextual flexibility within contemporary period as well as a historical context. As a result, sexuality floats with a specific historical and socio-cultural context, and fashion as a material culture represents a masquerade as a identity vehicle, which constructs and de-constructs sexuality at the same time.

A Study on the Plural Eclecticism and the Aesthetic Characteristics in Stage Costume - Focused on the World's Top 4 Musicals - (무대의상에 나타난 다원적 절충주의 경향에 관한 연구 - 세계 4대 뮤지컬을 중심으로 -)

  • Jun, Yuh-Sun;Kim, Jang-Hyeon;Kim, Young-Sam
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.6
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the trend of plural eclecticism in costumes appearing on the stages of the world's top 4 musicals based on the general researches and establishments made of the mentioned concept. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the aspects of eclectics appearing in overall pieces can be defined as situational eclecticism. It can be attributed to the dramatic elements contrasted in the storyline of the musical and occurs in mixture with various situations. Showing combinations of costumes from varying situations at once in the same stage makes the audience feel the dynamic elements of the piece. Second, the aspect of temporal eclecticism, which can be seen in the 'Phantom of the Opera' regarding mixture of crinoline style and art nouveau style, resulted from the partial mixture of classical elements for maximizing visual beauty in the historical pieces. Third, the aspect of spatial eclecticism can be observed in the musical 'Miss Saigon', which used costumes that combined multicultural elements by exposing different spaces and cultures such as America and Vietnam. It eclectically expresses the unique cultures and costumes of each country. Fourth, 'Les Miserables' shows the aspect of situational eclecticism, through its use of mixture of situations in various aspects, and in particular, the male and female costumes that blur the boundaries of life, death, and costume, the mixture of people's costume and aristocrat's costume, and the situational elements where the good and evil are contrasted are integrated eclectically to make the story dramatic.

Genome Detection Using an Integrated type DNA Chip Microelectrode-array and Non-labeling Target DNA (집적형 DNA칩 미소 전극 어레이 및 비수식화 표적 DNA를 이용한 유전자 검출)

  • Choi, Yong-Sung;Lee, Hea-Yeon;Tanaka, Hiroyuki;Tanaka, Hidekafu;Kwon, Young-Soo;Kawai, Tomoii
    • Proceedings of the KIEE Conference
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    • 2001.11a
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    • pp.274-276
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    • 2001
  • This research aims to develop the multiple channel electrochemical DNA chip using microfabrication technology. At first, we fabricated a high integration type DNA chip array by lithography technology. Several probe DNAs consisting of thiol group at their 5-end were immobilized on the sold electrodes. Then target DNAs were hybridized and reacted. Cyclic voltammetry showed a difference between target DNA and control DNA in the anodic peak current values. Therefore, it is able to detect a plural genes electrochemically after immobilization of a plural probe DNA and hybridization of non-labeling target DNA on the electrodes simultaneously. It suggested that this DNA chip could recognize the sequence specific genes.

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The Role of Syntactic Cues in Pronoun Referential Resolution: The Effects of Number Cue and Gender Cue (대명사의 통사단서가 참조해결과정에 미치는 효과: 대명사의 수 단서와 성별 단서)

  • Lee Jae-Ho
    • Korean Journal of Cognitive Science
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    • v.15 no.3
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    • pp.25-33
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    • 2004
  • Two experiments were conducted to investigate the effects of two syntactic cues in pronoun referential resolution: number cue (plural or singular) and gender cue (unambiguous or ambiguous). Using self-paced sentence reading task for pronoun sentences and lexical decision task for antecedents, Experiment 1 showed that the reading time of a plural pronoun ('they') was faster than a singular pronoun ('he' or 'she'), but the lexical decision time did not differ with a number cue and a Bender cue. In Experiment 2, using RSVP for pronoun sentences and lexical decision task for antecedents, the results showed that the lexical decision time differed for a gender cue only. These results suggested that the syntactic cues of a pronoun influenced strongly on referential resolution in discourse comprehension.

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Types of Possessive Meanings: Semantic Differences between Korean and English Possessives (소유의 의미유형 : 한.영 소유구문의 의미차이)

  • Yoon, Jae-Hak
    • Language and Information
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.93-125
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    • 2009
  • We examine attributive possessive constructions in Korean in examples like wuli manwula 'my wife' and wuli nala 'my country', where an apparently plural pronoun wuli 'our' is used to convey the singular meaning of 'my.' An example like wuli manwula has been a frequent topic of joke, because it clearly contains the literal sense of 'shared wife.' This type of use and the frequent use of wuli in an exclusive my context led many to claim that these are products of Korean culture which emphasizes groups and group solidarity over individuality, the example wuli manwula being the extreme case. Drawing on the work of Taylor (1989; 1996), Croft (2001; 2003), Haspelmath (1997; 2003), and 윤재학 (2003), we compare the meanings of Korean and English possessive constructions and seek a more linguistically based account for the data. In particular, it is shown that (i) wuli in question is not really the plural form of nay 'my', (ii) the possessive constructions in Korean are more conservative and limited in possible relations than the English counterparts are, and that (iii) these two facts interact to produce the afore-mentioned uses.

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A Study on Gender Identity shown in Movie Costumes from 1930′s to 1990′s -Focused on Masculinity and Feminity- (1930-1990년대 영화 의상에 나타난 젠더 정체성(I) -남성성(Masculinity), 여성성(Feminity)를 중심으로-)

  • 정세희;양숙희
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.40 no.5
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    • pp.63-78
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    • 2002
  • The movie costumes may serve to change individuals'ego identity, shift a gender identity to another one and make multiple and plural gender identities shared. The unique identities shown in movies can influence the audience to the extent that they will imitate characters's costumes or appearance in their real life, replacing their inner, unrealizable and private fantasy with real one. The purpose of this study is to review the movies produced in 1930's and thereafter by categorizing the socio-cultural gender concepts into masculinity and feminity. Masculinity and Feminity are not attributions fixed by some physical characteristics, but it tends to be changed or expended by some social factors over time. In short, it may be a flexible, plural, individual and self-introspecive attribute. Movies present diverse types of masculinity and feminity, and in particular, the movie costumes specify them. In other words, the costumes may be model means expressing the masculinity and feminity, and the gender identities shown in the movies tend to be imitated, re-created or assumed by the audience. All in all, the movie costumes serve to take on the confrontation of masculinity and feminity between inner, unrealizable and private fantasy and external reality and thereby, expand it from internal to external issue and thus, change or reform masculinity and feminity.

Creative Method of Post-modernism Expressed in Modern Fashion (현대패션에 표현된 포스트모더니즘의 창조방법)

  • Lee, Eun-Kyung
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.11 no.3
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    • pp.287-299
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    • 2002
  • Post-modernism exists with different shapes in overall cultural phenomena. Among the creative methods of composing post-modernism, there are representation, parody, plural coding, trans avant-garde etc. Summing up the influence of creative method of post-modernism on modem fashion led to the following results. 1. The phenomenon appears that value and valuelessness are easily reversed, and things with historical and traditional meanings are being ignored. 2. The boundary between higher culture and public culture is being disorganized, and mixed imitation phenomenon ignoring the differences between male and female is emerging 3. The mental and historial aspects in fashion pattern are highly thought of and the trend to understand human body from the various angles emerges. 4. In the consumer-oriented society, it appears in the form of meanings to achieve the self-achievement in individual life, to express one's idea and desire in the esthetical point of views. 5. It shows that through arranging the striking things and the distorted things, it takes the compromised method of re-appreciating the existing ideas. The phenomena in the post-modernism occurring in fashion design forced the concept of the uniformed existing fashion to be changed, creating a various fashions. That can just be called the dehumanization trend in the era of post-modernism, which is the most important formative feature in modern fashion.

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