• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.73-85
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• 2005

According to a rise in leisure time thanks to a five-day workweek system, the population of golf tends to rise day by day as exercise not extreme and doing together with nature, and as a sport with high concentration degree, by virtue of people who have an interest in health care and who strive to enjoy a leisure life. This study targeted the whole male and female golfers who reside in the areas of Seoul and Gyeonggi-do and are now playing golf, carried out sampling, and finally used 485 sheets for analyzing data. The study results were as follows; First, as a result of analyzing the whole lifestyle propensity depending on golfers' gender, it was shown that, as a result of making it type by factor, a male golfer was classified into shopping intention, fashion intention, family intention and tradition intention, and a female golfer was divided into shopping intention, fashion intention, family intention and man-and-woman equality intention. Second, as a result of analyzing a characteristic of gender depending on the standard of selecting goods, it showed the difference between genders as for the standard of selecting goods in case of purchasing golfwear, and it showed the difference in style/design, physique fitness, wearing of a famous golfer, convenience of laundry and management, and functionality, and male golfers were shown to select after seeing the clothes which a famous golfer did wear, compared to female golfers. Also, it could be seen that there was difference depending on the standard of selecting goods and the purchasing propensity in case of buying golfwear.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.89-98
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• 2007

Women are playing an increasing role in the society amid the increase in the age at first marriage, reduced family size, and the weakening solidarity among family members. Gold Miss is a newly coined word which reflects the change in the value of women in the wake of the individualism and pluralism amid the structural change. Gold Miss means a new X generation that is sensitive to the latest fashion and trend with high purchasing power and self-attainment goal. They do not spare any effort to invest in themselves, lead the new culture and set the cultural trend that goes beyond the simple consumption, and come into the spotlight both socially and economically. The outcome of the analysis on the Gold Miss fashion which was revealed in the mass media indicated that the fashion was the instrument to express their own images and personalities. Though they may be some difference depending on the occupation, personality, values, and others, they pursue sophisticated, intellectual, and emotional office-look that takes the trend and personality into account. In addition, they prefer business casual attire, and pursue the total fashion with perfection which uses the gorgeous bright and vivid color, daring color, accent color arrangement and accessories. The Gold Miss fashion implies the self-identity, high-end feature, and embody the symbolism of information, which the analysis on the feature and fashion of Golden Miss indicated.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.422-436
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• 2021

The fashion industry analyzes the value of its essence with ecological design and is expressed as an innovative sculpture using digital technology. Accordingly, this study explores ecological images and digital technologies, categorizes types and derives their meanings through analysis of ecological images shown in modern digital fashion. A literature survey was conducted on ecological images and digital technology as a theoretical background. To analyze the expression type and internal meanings of ecological images, designs with ecological formability were selected and analyzed from related journals, books, and internet sites. The finding are as follows: The expression type was first identified as organic curved garment silhouettes of a non-material liquid with digital retouching. Second, ecological fashion design includes structural shape that applies the silhouette of an organism and patterning of the ecosystem. Third, ecosystems consist of interactions between components of an ecosystem that appear in the interactive type. Accordingly, the internal meanings of ecological images in modern digital fashion are: first, digital fashion can encircle the inherent concepts of nature as organic collections of individuals; second, digital ecological images emphasize a sense of community with coexistence and harmony, playing a complementary role; and finally, the images express perceptual features by providing people with transcendent experiences. This study is significant as it analyzes new formative features based on ecological systems in the digital fashion environment, establishes an aesthetic system through internal meanings, and enhances awareness of human-natural relationships.

• 복식
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• 제1권
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• pp.119-129
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• 1977

It is significant for developing the future for us to know our present age. In order to preserve our Korean costume as a fola clothes retaining our distinguished independent characterisitics and to help design the tomorrow of our Korean costume playing a role as a racial to develop the world clothing culture, a survey was conducted to investigate modern people's conscious-ness and wearing practumes of Korean costume by questionaire and interviewing methods. The results of the survey were analyzed as follows: (1) At present, Korean costumes were purchased as customtailored(64.0%) and as ready-made(17.8%) and most of them were not made at individual homes. The laundry and ironing of them were carried out at laundry shops(68.8%). Considering our present economic, social and cultural aspects, sowing, laundryand ironing will not be carried out at homes again in the future and ready made costumes seen to be produced in a large scale in the future. Garment makers and laundry shop operators should be trained how to make our Korean costumes retain our traditional beauty in the course of their production and laundry and the makers of ready-made costumes must make research how to efficiently produce ideal ready-made costumes by adopting the synchro system in their wrk odisivion. (2) The age group wearing Korean costumes most frequently was the aged people over 60 (their wearing rate; 45%-50%) and the group wearing them most frequently next io the aged people over 60, was housewives(their wearing rate; 15%-20%). Excludign aged people and housewives, other respondentsdid not wear Korean costumes very frequently. Men's wearing rate was lower their wearing rate was the younger their ages were and the less their monthly incomes were. Korean costumes were used for holiday and festival(60%), wedding and funeral ceremonies (52%), visiting and working(22%), casual wear(12.8%) and home wear(9.2%). The use of Korean costumes as casual and home wears, was lower than the use for holday, festival, visiting and working, Under our present circumstances in which our Korean people use both Western style clothes and Korean costumer, our Korean costume has lostits position as a basic and necessary requiement in Korean people's daily life and become a ceremonical and fancy costume. It is natural that the times and life change everything in our daily life. Our costume has to be made as good ceremonial and fancy clothes satisfying modern sensibility according to its new role. In order for us to get close with our clothes, a keen study must be carried out to cleat the color, material, style, function and harmony of the Korean costume matching the of the times. (3) The 47.8% of the respondents answered that they were proud of our Korean costume as our folk clothes, 47.6% replied that thought them just common and 1.1% responded that they were ashamed of it. Most of them were affirmative in feeling pride with our Korean costume. (4) Considering the functional aspect of Korean costumes, their strong points were symetric beauty, rhythmical beauty, unity feeling, harmonical beauty and detailed decorations. Their common shortcomings were lack of individuality and inadequateness for active life. The shortcomings of woman costumes were suppressing breast, making resperation difficult and in adequnteness in summer time. The main reason not to wear our Korean costumes, was due to the fact that they are incomvenient for active life. As a measure to eliminate such shortcomings, 1) the suspension system of skirt to remove the suppression of breast should be generally adopted. 2) they should be simplified in their structure to make them convenient for active life and adepuate in wearing them in hot weather in an extent to which the traditional beauty of the costume may not be lostand 3) a new technique must be explored for showing individuality by wearing method and new arrangment of colors and decorations. (5) The reasons desiring to wear Korean costumes were classifide as follows: A. Korean costumes are our traditional clothes(43.4%). B. Korean costumes are noble and beautiful(26.8%). C. They are accustomed to wear Korean costumes by habit(19.5%). D. Korean costumes are necessary for attending ceremoneis(9.5%). E. Miscellaneous reasons(0.8%). Classifying these reasons into age groups, the high age group over 40 wore them because they were easy to wear by habit and the low age group of 10-30 never thought that they were east to wear by habit. Considering that even those who were accustomed to wear Korean costumes showed a low wearing rate and that the young generation were accustomed to wear Western style clothes rather than Korean costumes, the wearing rate of Korean costumes will be reduced in the future if such trend continues. It is urgent for us to make our best efforts in order to enhance the interest of young generation in Korean costumes and not to make them lose the strong points of Korean costume in the future. (6) Conicering the plan of the respondents on what kind of clothes they were going to wear in the future, among the age group over 50, those who wanted to wear only Korean costumes were 24.8%(men) and 35.1%(women), those who wanted to wear 49.7%(men) and 47.4(women), those who wanted to wear chiefly Western style clothes were 20.7% (men) and 14.4%(women) and those who wanted to wear only Western style clothes, were 2.4% (men) and 2.1%(women). This shows that the general tendency to wear only or chiefly Korean costumes is more prevalent than that to wear only Western style. Among the age group under 50, the tendency to wear Western style clothes was conspicuous and most of the respondent answered that they would wear chiefly Western style clothes and Korean costumes occasionally. Only 5.4% of the respondent answered that they would wear only Western style clothes and this shows that meny respondents still wonted to wear Korean costumes. Those who wanted their descendants to wear what they desire, were 50.1%(men) and 68.8% (women) and those who wanted their descendants to wear Koran costumes occasionally, were 85.8%(men) and 86.3%(women). This shows that most of respondents wanted their descendants to wear Korean costumes. In order to realize, it is necessory for us to make ourdescendants recognize the preciousness of our traditional culture and modify our Korean costumes according to their taste so that they may like wearing them.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권1호
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• pp.63-79
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• 2022

This study investigated the phenomenon of modern people enjoying tattoo culture in Korea from the perspective of post subculture. A qualitative study was conducted using both literature review and in-depth interview methods. For post-subculture perspectives, the theories of Maffesoli (2017) and Thornton (1996), which are suitable for interpreting contemporary tattoo culture, were reviewed in terms of seven concepts: sporadic network, grouping, fluid participation, temporary emotional bond, self-distinction, pursuit of underground culture, and display and concealment. Semi-structured questionnaires were constructed and administered based on the organized characteristics. Five cultural qualities of the tattoo phenomenon in Korea were derived based on post-subculture concepts. Sporadic formation is related to the pattern of inflow into tattoo culture, and "streaming" participation is based on fluid participation and temporary ties. Distinction within subculture is based on self-distinction and pursuit of underground. The costume-playing ordinary concept includes the characteristic of controlling the exposure of tattoos in society. Finally, formation of the consumer tattoo market was newly discovered in Korean tattoo culture.

• 복식
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• 제64권3호
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• 대한간호
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.44-52
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to inquire the people's views on nursing for nurses, correct the image of nurse and take it as basis to be applied on nursing education examining the image of nursing on Television drama playing important role of mass media. 22 nurses of the characters in drama is applied to the analysis object of this study by selecting 6 dramas of Television ones the nurse play on the prime time from June 1 to August 31 in 1997. Contents analysis method was used in Data Analysis, 4 items was used after Coders previously modify and compensate it based on research documents of 1m Milim(1996) 2 Coders made the Coding the article on each person by them seeing the recorded film making the Coding Paper each items is written by the character. The average of reliability degree was 90% which measured the reliability degree by the mathod of Holsti. The statisic method of frequency, percentage was used SPSS Program in data processing The results were as follows. 1. Relative importance of 86.2% nurses in drama was depicted as extra characters 2. The affair attitude of nurses shown on drama was revealed as mechanical(84.7%), passive(45.5%), dependent(54.4%) unkind(68.2%). 3. The activity of nurses was classified with professional! simple affair. The professional affairs such as I.V., Blood Pressure Check, Rounding, Nursing Recording, Patient Education, Assist of Operation, Assistant meal of Patient, etc is mainly depicted and the screen of simple affair such as Receiving telephone, Carrying Tray or Dragging, Stretcher Car, Dressing Car and or Wheel Chair than professional affair. 4. The appearance feature of nurses was shown on thin physique(68.2%), common stature(68.2), dirty costume(45.4%), common appearance(81.9%), unnoble action(63.6%). The image of nurses is illuminated as the exterial scene of technical affair such as assisting the doctors and affair focused on accident and educational activity of nureses or extended role is nor depicted on Television drama. Therefore, the people regard the nurse as sexual object with good appearance than professional worker working professional nursing We want the following, epigraph based on above conclusion. 1. The continuous research is required on the image of nurse shown on various mass media. 2. The later research is required on appliction strategy of mass media for advancing the image of nurse. 3. The research to strengthen the objectivity by comparing analyzed data on drama & analyzing it is required 4. Through the deep study, the standard to show a concrete and professional work of nurses to scenario writers of TV drama is suggested by the association. 5. The monitoring about the mass media must be activated, not by some nurses, on a national scale and much study on the basis of this is needed.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제37호
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• pp.5-31
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• 2018

고성오광대 제1과장 문둥북춤은 양반의 자손으로서 조상들의 죄업으로 문둥병에 걸려 고통으로 괴로워하다 신명을 통해 극복한다는 내용을 대사 없이 춤으로만 표현한다. 고성오광대 문둥북춤의 문화재 지정 이후 현재까지 변화양상을 살펴본 결과 시간이 지남에 따라 문둥북춤의 춤사위가 더 많아지고 동작이 구체화된 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 1965년 문둥북춤 춤사위부터 2000년 문둥북춤까지 춤사위가 5개에서 20개로 확장되고 이전보다 구체화된 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한 문둥북춤에서 사용하는 소도구 북의 표현하는 방식이 65년의 경우 북을 치고 어르는 춤사위만 있었다면, 1988년의 경우 현재와 같이 북과 북채를 무대에 두고 등장하고 춤사위도 14개로 늘어난 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 2000년 문둥북춤의 경우 문둥이가 북을 잡고 난 이후부터 신명나게 춤을 추며 자진모리장단으로 발전되는 형태는 이전보다 춤사위가 더 다양해지고 이야기 구조를 좀 더 명확하게 표현하는데 사용된 것을 알 수 있었다. 마지막으로 고성오광대의 대표적인 춤사위 배김새가 1965년엔 보이지 않고 1969년엔 한 방향으로만 배김사위를 하는데 1988년과 2000년 문둥북춤에서 보여지는 배김사위는 좌우로 대칭하여 한 번씩 연행해 현재의 배김사위와 같은 것을 알 수 있었다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.44-65
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• 2018

본 연구는 2015년 9월, 보물 제1879호로 지정된 동국대학교 박물관 소장 <희경루방회도(喜慶樓榜會圖)> 속 인물들의 복식을 고찰한 것이다. <희경루방회도>는 1567년 6월 광주목(光州牧) 관아의 희경루(喜慶樓)에서 개최된 동방(同榜) 계회(契會)를 그린 것으로, 방회(榜會)의 주인공인 관료 5인과 관아 소속의 향리(鄕吏), 아전(衙前), 나장(羅將), 조례(?隷), 악공(樂工), 여기(女妓), 동기(童妓) 등 다양한 신분의 남녀가 묘사되어 있다. 이들이 착용하고 있는 복식을 밝히기 위해 문헌자료와 복식유물, 회화자료 등을 활용하였으며 연구범위는 겉으로 드러나는 두식(頭飾)과 포류(袍類), 그에 따른 부속품류로 한정하였다. 현직에 있는 시임관료(時任官僚)는 사모(紗帽) 홍단령(紅團領)을 착용하였다. 그 외에 품계에 따른 품대(品帶)와 흑화(黑靴)를 신었을 것으로 추정된다. 현직에서 물러난 원임관료(原任官僚)는 말총[마미(馬尾)]이나 사(紗)로 싼 흑립(黑笠)에 홍직령과 도아(?兒) 등을 착용하였다. 향리는 흑죽방립(黑竹方笠)에 흰색 직령(直領)을 입고 도아를 띠었다. 고려시대에는 방립이 왕 이하 지식층에서 썼던 관모였지만 조선전기에는 향리의 관모로 전락하였는데 그 착용 모습이 <희경루방회도>에서 확인되었다. 아전은 흰색 직령에 흑립을 쓰고 도아를 띠었다. 나장은 조건(?巾)을 쓰고 철릭 위에 반비의(半臂衣)를 착용하는 것이 규정이었지만 <희경루방회도> 속 나장은 반비의를 착용하지 않고 조건과 철릭만 착용한 모습이었다. 또한 조례는 포(布)로 싼 흑립에 홍철릭을 착용하고, 악공은 소모자에 홍철릭을 착용하였다. 나장 이하 하속은 허리에 모두 청색 계통의 도아를 둘렀다. 여기(女妓)와 동기(童妓)는 주인공의 시중을 들거나 춤을 추고 연주를 하고 있었는데 여기들은 크게 부풀린 둥근 고계(高?)에 홍색 대요(臺腰)를 두르고 곧은 깃 또는 젖힌 깃의 황장삼(黃長衫)을 입고 허리띠를 둘렀다. 동기는 뒤쪽에 양 갈래로 짧게 땋아 내린 머리에 교임형 홍색 포를 착용하였다.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제20호
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• pp.5-30
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• 2010

허규는 80~90년대 창극 연출을 담당하며 왕성한 활동을 전개한 바 있다. 그는 전승 5가 뿐만 아니라 실전 판소리를 창극화 하였으며, 창작 창극 작품도 다수 무대에 선보였다. 특히 '완판 창극'이라는 이름으로 1982년 <흥보전>을 무대에 올린 후 1985년 <적벽가>를 공연함으로써 전승 5가의 창극화 작업을 완결지은 것은 그가 남긴 큰 업적 가운데 하나이다. 허규는 주체적 민족문화의 정립과 한국 전통연희의 창조적 계승 문제에 많은 관심을 기울였던 실천적인 연극인이다. 그는 창극을 한국의 대표적인 공연예술로 정립하고자 노력했다. 창극 작품은 그 연원에 따라, (1)전승 5가의 창극화 (2)실전 7가의 창극화 (3)창작 창극으로 세분해 볼 수 있다. 허규가 연출한 작품에는 이 3가지 유형이 모두 포함되어 있다. 그 가운데 전승 5가를 창극화한 작품이 가장 큰 비중을 차지하고 있다. 허규가 시도한 '완판창극'은 한국의 전통유산 가운데 빼어난 예술적 성과를 거둔 요소들을 집대성하여 무대에 올림으로써, 창극을 한국의 대표적인 공연예술로 정립해 보고자한 것이다. '완판창극'에 나타난 특징은 다음 네 가지로 정리할 수 있다. (1) 전통을 중시하는 연출 태도, (2) 전통연희 요소의 적극적 수용, (3) 격조와 윤리의식의 중시, (4) 해학의 강조와 보조인물의 적극적 활용이 그것이다. 허규가 시도한 '완판창극'은 창극이 성취할 수 있는 예술적 수준의 한 정점을 보여주는 것이다. 판소리 유산을 망라하고 나아가 전통연희를 적극적으로 수용하여, 창극을 한국의 대표적인 공연예술로 정립해 보고자 했던 것이다. 허규는 '완판창극'에서 판소리의 진정성을 그대로 살리려고 노력했으며, 처음부터 끝까지 한 대목도 빠뜨리지 않고 장면화 하려고 했다. '완판창극'의 공연 시간이 4~5시간이나 소요되었다는 것이 그 점을 잘 보여준다. 허규가 완판창극에서 거둔 성과는 이후 창극에 상당한 영향을 끼친 것으로 보인다. 1990년대에 시도된 '완판장막창극'도 그 모태는 허규의 '완판창극'에 두고 있다. 창본을 종합해 내고 판소리의 좋은 점을 모두 보여주고자 하는 의도가 일치한다는 점에서 특히 그러하다. 그렇지만 90년대 '완판장막창극'은 대형 무대화를 지향했으며 화려한 무대장치와 의상 그리고 버라이어티한 요소를 부각시켰다는 점에서 '완판창극'과 대비된다. 허규의 완판창극이 끼친 중요한 영향 가운데 하나는 판소리의 '열린 형식'을 창극의 공연 문법으로 적극 활용했다는 점이다. 허규는 극의 전개 과정에서 필요하다고 판단되면 전통연희의 요소를 적극적으로 수용하여, 극적 표현 영역을 확장하고 작품의 완성도를 높이고자 했다. 이러한 그의 시도는 창극 극작술의 한 방식으로 인식되어, 이후 창극연출에도 지속적으로 영향을 미치고 있다. 요즘 창극은 어떻게 하면 청중들의 호응을 얻을 수 있을까에 관심을 집중하기 때문에, '감동받는 창극' 보다는 '재미있는 창극'을 만드는 일이 중요하다고 생각하는 듯하다. 공연 시간도 최대 2시간을 넘지 않으려고 하며, 관현악 반주를 중시하는 경향을 보여준다. 이런 관점에서는 허규가 '완판창극'을 통해 구현하고자 했던 창극의 지향점은 극복의 대상으로 인식되고 있는 것으로 보인다.