• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.75-84
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• 2004

Stage costumes perform not only the instrumental but also the expressive functions. The major goal of this study is to develop the functional and aesthetic costume designs for musical players considering the characteristics of instruments. players’ postures. The scope of this study is restricted to the musical costumes for female adult soloists playing the wind and string instruments. This study is composed of theory research, empiricalresearch and manufacturing a real costume. First, theory research contains theory of musical costumes and that of pure musical areas. Concept, characteristics and wearing effects are analysed in theory of musical costumes. Second, designs of instruments and playing postures are analysed in the theory of pure musical areas. Proper and improper designs are compared based on the survey asking the favorite designs of 56 wind and string players. Third, I manufacture a stage costume for a harpist. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, wind and string players think the functionality of costumes more importantly than the esthetic sense. And there are differences in design preferences for different playing postures. Second, string Players basically use arms, fingers and the upper body. Wind players use fingers more than string players and do abdominal breathing. Third, string players think the design of arms and sleeves because of frequent usage of bow and prefer the design without sleeves. On the contrary, wind players think the silhouette importantly because of standing playing posture. Fourth, players don't think that the accessory is not important and want it so long as it doesn't hinder playing. Fifth, shoes plays more important role than costume in case of playing posture with using pedals and moving legs frequently. Lastly, both wind and string players prefer the design with simplicity and comfort most.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.86-99
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• 2007

In this study, the concept of play as an entertainment is redefined and applicable method of fashion design as a play are suggested by analyzing the feature of doll's costume design based on the play pattern. In literary study, the role of playing doll Is described and has been examined by the analysis of scholars' opinions. In positive study, the pattern and costume design of sample costume dolls are analyzed using 624 samples of the representative images collected from the literatures and real figures, and they are classified as collection dolls or fashion dolls in order to analyze the feature of fashion design in playing dolls. As a result of the analysis of doll's costumes based on its use, the costumers are divided into a real world costume which is similar to what human wear in daily life and a virtual costume which is used in the movie or play and the costumes only worn by the dolls. The examination of the type of costume worn by dolls, dress is principally dominant costume in collection doll, whereas in fashion doll, dress is still mainly worn but shirt blouse & pants, shirt blouse k skirt, jacket, coat, bathing suit. etc. are shown dispersedly as well. In the costume silhouette of dolls, collection doll uses mostly A line silhouette meanwhile fit and flare is mostly used in the fashion doll but other silhouettes are also relatively shown a lot. In the means of the color of the costume worn by dolls, collection doll is more similar to those in actual fashion design. On the contrary, the color of the costume that fashion doll is put on is more free and more various because the trendy rotors such as green, yellow, purple, etc are used.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.42-42
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• 2003

Stage costumes perform not only the instrumental but also the expressive functions. The major goal of this study is to develop the functional and aesthetic costume designs for musical players considering the characteristics of instruments, players' postures. This study will increase the related market size and the players' choices and move aurally and visually more. The scope of this study is restricted to the musical costumes for female adult soloists playing the wind and string instruments. This study is composed of theory research, empirical research and manufacturing a real costume.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.68-69
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• 2004

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.99-111
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• 2005

The research analyzed the clothing attitude which it follows in type of performance musical instrument and a design preference moral difference. The result which tries to observe the clothing attitude which it follows in type of performance musical instrument and a design preference moral difference, it was visible a difference little by little. When comparison it tries the design which it prefers but consequently most in type of performance musical instrument, the big difference is not born and not to be putting the difference of the preference design which it follows in type of musical instrument specific your neck line, color, and silhouette of the vocal musician or wind music performer. When seeing whole, the clothing attitude regarding a performance luck compared to considered seriously an aesthetic pursuit and a convenient characteristic and harmonious, there design preference is the clothes which have no sleeve, neckline like camisole, black and pastel color, design with lots of decorations, princess silhouette, and they prefer the fabrics which have softness to it. Now, I want to introduce restriction of this research and proposal. First, the fundamental research of performance's clothes is insufficient with restricted point and the literature investigation is difficult, second, it was difficult to stretch the whole market for performers because of limitation for research volunteers. Only few volunteers are from college who are majoring in music.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.166-188
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• 1973

This thesis chiefly to investigate and study about the historic transition of the dress and ornament which is based on the costume of the folk dance. The folk dance is devide into the styled of the Court and common people I. Investigated and studied on the description of Hak-mu (the crane), Ryun-wha-dae (the lotus blossom) and chu-yong dance (a mask drama) which are the typical models among the folk dance on the view of the scale and history of playing. This research materials are made on abstract of Ak-Hak-Gyae-Bum (the pattern of the music which was compiled by Sung-hyun on the King of Sung-Jong of Yi-dynasdty) and selected from the conservation material and playing in the National Classical Music Bureau nowadays. I am sure the understanding the style of common people is to investigate and research the folk dance which is specified and conserved by cultural property control Bureau. Generally Bong-San mask dance is the typical mask drama on the view of the scale and transmitted, which occupies the wide range of the folk dance. So I selected it as the research material. I am interested in the historic origin and the structure of the dress and ormant conserved till the nowadays and so can catch the hidden conception about the colour and concern of religion in the Korean peculiar living consciousness. From this point, the study of the classical folk costume is activated in this part and I hope this poor article will become a small assistance for another study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.83-101
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• 1981

This study is to research and analyse the Musicians' Costumes in Yi dynasty. Each costume for the musicians was, at that time, different in its design and style in accordance with what class the musicians were belonging to and what ceremony they were playing for, and the form and substance of them were changed according to the ages. In the early of Yi dynasty, the musicians wore their costumes imitated from the Song dynasty's. Especially in the 13th year of King Sae-Jong(1431), they divided the costumes into A-ag-Seo Jeon-ag Gwan-bog(雅樂署 典樂冠服) and Jeon-ag-Seo Gwan-bog(典樂署冠服). Meanwhile the musicians had to put on their different kinds of costumes according to the sorts of ceremonies they were playing for since January of the 16th year of king Sae-Jong(1434). It is widely known that confucianism was made a national policy in Yi dynasty. Compared the musicians' costumes for sacrificial rituals, however, with those for every kind of ceremony, one was simpler and shabbier without any strictly established forms than the other. At the same time, the musicians' costumes for ceremonies were, instead, designed in more gorgeous forms; it means that the sacrificial ritual was very lightly dealt at that time. It is very difficult to define, by standard pictures the whole style and form of the musicians' costumes in Yi dynasty in this study. Since we haven't shown any examples of the costumes, this attempt will be keepful.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.289-300
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• 2016

This study surveys children's costumes and games from the 11 Genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(Stewart Culin 1858-1929)". The character of the general dress-costumes, games and the culture of life from the late $19^{th}$ century in genre painting of Junkeun Kim are as follows. The study results on the games are as follow. The boy's games are kite-flying, spinning tops, playing shuttlecock with the feet, blindman's buff, yut("Four-Stick Game"). Girl's games are seesaw with board, blindman's buff, marbles. Combined games are mount shoulder, sledge, tightrope walking for men with boy. The strengthen one's body type were seesaw with board, tightrope walking, the compete score type were playing shuttlecock with the feet, marbles and the multi complex type were yut("Four-Stick Game"), kite-flying. Through genre painting in the $19^{th}$ century we know a boy's 'Jeogori 'and 'Ba-ji' were similar to a modern man's and boy's 'Hanbok' with a traditional method of wearing. We believe that the originality of a traditional costume was an unchangeable characteristic. Girl's 'Jeogori' and 'Chi-ma' changed in length and width, and method of wearing; however, the basic shape did not change. The analysis for artist's genre painting which was ordered by a foreigner and the late of $19^{th}$ century's children's costume and game of life culture is useful to match the counters and show how to wear a modern Korean costume used to understand the 'Hanbok' and establish a costume of life.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.15-26
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research development process of commedia dell'arte and Korean masque that have similar figure, grasp similarity and difference and find the meaning of masque and costume in both theatrical arts. Italian commedia dell'arte and Korean masque are performed by wearing standardized mask and costume depending on the role. As common points, first, the characters have unique names and possess unique features of character, costumes, masks and playing styles. Through the feature, the audiences can understand role of actor and the actors can devote themselves to their role by wearing masks and costumes. Second, although background plays an important role in commedia dell'arte, the role of costume is more important. Because masque speaks for poverties of general people indirectly, the costumes of general people were used as they are. As different point, first, most of Korean masks cover entire face, restricting speech of actor but masks of commedia dell'arte cover only upper part of face and expos mouth and chin of actor, enabling actors to express various emotions depending on the character. Second, priority is given to personality of actor and origin area and current silhouette, material and color that changed by century is reflected in the costume of commedia dell'arte but silhouette, material and color of the Age of Joseon Dynasty were adopted in Korean masque.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.74-84
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine symbolic meanings of costumes shown by portraits of King Henry VIII and use them as basic data for research on costume design of historical dramas in the Renaissance or on King Henry VIII's costume. This study attempted analysis of symbolic meanings from the paintings-related various domestic and overseas literatures, preliminary study paper, and web sites etc. The symbolic meanings expressed by the portraits of King Henry VIII are characterized by authority, innovation performance, authority, masculinity, innovation performance, artistic taste, intellectual charm, intrepidity and benevolence. Especially, the portraits of King Henry VIII symbolized his masculine beauty by emphasizing sexual attractiveness that cannot be seen in portraits of other kings through broad shoulders and exaggerated codpiece which are the zenith of masculine beauty during the Renaissance age. Through the image of King Henry VIII which was painted with jester or barber surgeons, his characteristic and open mind thinking highly of the technique and human life was also expressed. In the portrait of King Henry VIII, various images set in knights' tournament, playing a musical instrument and reading a book as well as the image of wearing a parliament costume were shown, highlighting King Henry VIII as a person good at both literary and martial arts with open and innovative personality than any other kings in history.