• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study is aimed at reviewing how the Orientalism trend is expressed in the modem fashion in terms of silhouette, color, materials, and detail. To this end, the geographic scope of this study is limited to China, Japan, Korea, while data are collected from fashion collections, domestic and foreign magazines since 2000's, literature, and internet sites. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. Silhouette: the basic square silhouette of the Oriental traditional costume do not disturb the body movement and have an effected on design to smoothly follow the body line rather than cutting out materials into several parts or emphasize the curved body. 2. Color: due to the influence of the Oriental Zen thought, color trend seems to pursue simplicity rather than complexity, and natural aesthetics. In addition, the Oriental colorfulness shall not be ignored. 3. Materials: golden embroidered material, polished satin, jersey, tough or rough materials, etc. have used with materials of the Oriental traditional costume came into fashion. In pattern, the Orientalism trend is expressive of pattern by Chinese ink-spread technique, simple brush touch technique, cloud pattern, lotus flower pattern or dragon pattern, all of which feature the Oriental calm aesthetics or those motivated by the Oriental traditional patterns. 4. Detail: the techniques of handicrafts and manual arts such as meticulous embroidery, tassel or patchwork reflect well the Orientalism trend in the modem fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.31-42
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• 2008

The fashion of the 19C had been through many diverse styles, i.e. Empire style, Romantic style, Crinoline style and the Bustle style. These styles had emphasized a certain figures, such as exaggerated hourglass silhouette of crinoline style or S silhouette of bustle style. Following the trends, corsets became more than underwears. Actually they supported the fashion of the 19C. Apparently, the corsets had been evolved in many aspects. Patterns, materials and trimmings were developed and refined to make torso figures desirable. The initial purpose of the research is to find out how they developed corset patterns to make such a diverse figures, so that the techniques can be adopted in contemporary pattern design. The 16 corsets and their patterns were quoted from books related the subject. The patterns were redrawn of same scale for the comparative study concerning cutting lines and measurements. Coming to the late, more curved lines and more segmented cutting were used to make body more of glamour and natural. Gussets were another key technique to make them work. Various sized and shaped gussets were used to follow the trends of ever changing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.125-139
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• 2020

The fashion industry that perceived the severity of environmental pollution, has sought various methods of sustainable fashion. However, most of the businesses paid attention to the development of materials using industrial waste, or vegan material. Thus, this study aims to present the methods for improvement in creativity for inversely developing the design from patterns and present new approaches by applying the contrarian development of proto to class under the limited condition of material concerning general design, selection of material, and production of sample. In the case of three student teams enrolled in the first semester of the second year, the fabric and used clothing donated by industry were used as material. The whole cut for cutting a single fabric in connected state, and Zero Wastes Design within a rectangular frame of fabric, upcycling of used clothes, and cutting out of Geometric Form are suggested. The team(A) produced a zero-wastes coat and whole-cut Pancho that could be variously represented. The team(B) produced two kinds of asymmetric dress by utilizing used check-patterned shirts through upcycling. The team(C) utilized the fabric in geometric forms such as rectangle, trapezoid, and atypical figure by drawing design within donated fabrics. The items were a dress, blouse, and skirt. Consequently, an opportunity for both academia and industry to present more concrete methods for sustainable fashion and deeply perceive the sustainable fashion is presented along with novel methods for creation by carrying out the composition of pattern and design at the same time.

• Korean Journal of Computational Design and Engineering
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.19-27
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• 1997

This paper presents rough cut tool path planning for the fewer-axis machine consisting of a three-axis CNC machine and a rotary indexing table. In the problem dealt with in this paper, the tool orientation is "intermediately" changed, distinguished from the conventional problem where the tool orientation is assumed to be fixed. The developed rough cut path planning algorithm tries to minimize the number of tool orientation (setup) changes together with tool changes and the machining time for the rough cut by the four procedures: a) decomposition of the machining area based on the possibility of tool interference (via convex hull operation), b) determination of the optimal tool size and orientation (via network graph theory and branch-and bound algorithm), c) generation of tool path for the tool and orientation (based on zig-zag pattern), and d) feedrate adjustment to maintain the cutting force at an operation level (based on average cutting force). The developed algorithms are validated via computer simulations, and can be also used in pure fiveaxis machining environment without modification.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.234-238
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• 2000

In this study it was measured seam strength of T/C which has the different processing methods and density. Also it was measured seam strength by the change of angle in the pattern and the kinds of threads. The results of this study are as follows; The seam strength is stronger in order of $90^{\circ}/90^{\circ}$ > $0^{\circ}/0^{\circ}$ > $70^{\circ}/-70^{\circ}$ > $70^{\circ}/70^{\circ}$ > $60^{\circ}/60^{\circ}$ > $60^{\circ}/-60^{\circ}$ > $30^{\circ}/30^{\circ}$ > $30^{\circ}/-30^{\circ}$ > $45^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$ > $45^{\circ}/45^{\circ}$ by the cutting directions, in order of T/C3>T/C1>T/C4>T/C2 by the samples and in order of 60's/3>40's/2>60's/2>50's/2 by the threads.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Precision Engineering Conference
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• 2001.04a
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• pp.1085-1088
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• 2001

The process of styrofoam pattern that has been used for material of press die pattern depends chiefly on handwork. Laser manufacturing system developed to increase precision and efficiency of process that is also able to convert the design easily. Applying the RP(rapid prototyping) concept reversely, the unnecessary part of section is vapored away by heat source of laser beam after converting 3-D CAD model into cross-sectional shape information. Laser beam is line-scanned in plane specimens to measure the depth and width of cut, surface roughness, cross-sectional shape as converting laser power, scanning speed, cutting gas pressure. With these basic data, plane surface, inclined surface, hole, outer contour trimming process is experimented and optimum condition are obtained. In plane and inclined surface experiments, 15W laser power and 50mm/s scanning speed make superior processing property and 30W, 10mm/s make processing efficiency increase in trimming process. With these results, simple patterns were manufactured and the possibility of applying laser manufacturing system to styrofoam pattern was convinced.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.692-704
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• 2007

Recently, Basic patterns with excellent body fitness and automation availability are required to be developed in order to automate the patterns of women's clothes. In this study, this reference points, reference lines and segments were fixed onto 3D scan data for the lower body the women in their twenties, they were directly spread out to be 2D flat pattern to facilitate development into the design of slacks adhered closely to the human body such as special and highly-functional clothes, and then slacks 2D pattern was developed for the purpose of seeking scientific approach to the development into basic form slacks and 3d emotional pattern. For conversion of 3D pattern into 2D flat pattern, reference points and segments were created by using Rapid Form of 3D shape analysis software, and triangle mesh of the body surface of the created shape was developed with Auto CAD 2005. The correspondence between slacks and human body was examined by the fixation of major reference lines. Specially, the wearing characteristics of slacks were considered by the fixation of side lines in consideration of posture. As a result of using the way of development to constantly maintain the length while 3D triangle mesh is converted into 2D flat mesh, the shape was shown to be excellently reproduced, and the area of flat pattern was increased compared to the shape of parting plane. Also, the sunk-in curve like the brief line of front crotch length needed a cutting line when it was closely adhered, when mesh was overlapped, and the pattern area was smaller compared to the actual shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.289-304
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• 1998

In Korean clothing industry, most of the manufactures produce garments by subcon-tractors partially or entirely. It is very often that the design part is remote from production part and there is miscommunication between these two parts resulting dissatisfaction to both. Therefore it is very important to communicate the manufacturing information clearly and quickly to produce garments exactly the design part intended. Also to automate the clothing out how to produce and use the information objectively and efficiently. As a first step of moving to automation, the purpose of the research is to find out how manufacturing information and data are communicated in clothing manufacturing at present. In order to follow the information flow of a cer-tain manufacturer, the case study method was used. The case study samples were 12 clothing firms of 13 brands. The results and suggestions are as follows :- 1. A manufacturing information is communicated through paper documents such as“Production Order”, sample and patterns. At present, a production order sheet is the most efficient communication media, which comprises most of the information being communicated. 2. A manufacturing information comprises control information on the product, design in-formation, pattern information, cutting information, material information, sewing information, production schedule information, quality control information, costing information and information about the subcontractors. 3. A manufacturing is not quite objective except pattern information and cutting information which is presented by CAD systems. The communication of design information and sewing information should be somehow more objective. 4. There is not much information from a subcontractor. Considering that a subcontractor is the other partener of the communication, more information from the subcontractor is required for both benefit. 5. A designer produce most of the manufacturing information, but the information is communicated through a production manager to the subcontractor. The difference between the information maker and information communicator can cause any miscommunication. In future automated manufacturing, it will be possible for the designer to communicate to the manufacturer directly from the early stage of designing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.108-125
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the technical pattern and product characteristics of outdoor sportswear marketed in Northern Europe and North America. Based on the results of this study, we wanted to provide practical data on the characteristics of products with high functionality and fashionability for developing outdoor sportswear. Therefore, in this study, technical pattern, textiles, details, sewing, compatibility with wearable devices, and certification of 33 marketed outdoor sportswear were analyzed. After analyzing various technical patterns, the bent arm pattern using two-piece panel and a raised arm pattern connecting the side seam with the inner seam of the sleeve appeared on the top. Additionally, the patterns of bent legs with darts in the knee, cutting the posterior, and inserting the gusset in the crotch were mainly seen in the bottoms. By analyzing product characteristics, ergonomic pattern design for easy activity and functional materials was used for climate adaptation in extreme outdoor wear. On the other hand, for outdoor wear meant for trekking or hiking, details, such as portability and easy storage, were considered. Eco-friendly materials were used while ensuring light weight and comfort. Furthermore, for convenience of life, safety, and health, wearable devices were integrated into the outdoor sportswear. Eco-friendly green certification of outdoor products was obtained for the labor environment and production process, and relevant information was provided to consumers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.121-137
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• 2020

This thesis makes it an aim to develop designs of Shinhanbok coats interpreting and applying the formative structure of the lattice window pattern in Huijeongdang of the Changdeokgung palace, one of the best architecture in Chosun dynasty. Literature review about the history and characteristics of the window of Huijeongdang of the Changdeokgung palace was performed on the basis of the internet resources and papers, and the examples of the fashion design applying the lattice window patterns were analyzed. Then, three style Shinhanbok coats were designed and presented with making use of 6 kind of lattice window patterns as its motif. The coats were designed in flexible size, attempting to clad any kind of body size and shapes. Design 1 drawn from Wanjasal, Tisal, Design 2 drawn from Ajasal, Yongjasal, Tisal, design 3 drawn from Bitsal, Jungjasal. In conclusion, lattice window patterns of the traditional beauty highlighted in view of modern times might be suggested as the motif for expressing the proportion with balance and rhythm with stability. The division of the space with the line was tried with the technique of the bias cutting, stitching and taping with the design of simplicity signified in the aesthetics of the vacant space in addition to its ornamental effects. Thus, this study would like to contribute to the popularity of the Shinhanbok outlined in modern application and unique taste through the study and applications of the traditional lattice window pattern of Korea.