• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.91-101
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• 2010

This paper has the purpose of suggesting a development-method on the fashion products that would secure the competitiveness in the global markets through creating supersensitive practical products on the basis of developing originative fashion-goods being made of jacquard that is fine quality of couture. This paper has collected data through the cases of the developed nations in fashion, precedent studies and all the related literature on the subject. The results of this researching are as following: The first, it is expected that the necessity of developing new fashion products would be appealed toward the prestige group of consumers who are seeking for the fine quality and super-sensitivity in female fashion in Korea, and it is the current situation that the products made of jacquard are gradually expanding not only in the area of apparel, fashion goods and interior but also another areas. The current situation of the global market suggests the necessary strategy of survival, that is, the development of supersensitive materials and creative products which would be able to keep the high quality and lower the selling price through cost reduction. The second, the suggestion of the direction in developing the products of the female fashion made of jacquard has two points - the development of the texture that would realize a unique form and the development of the material that would be able to realize planar pattern and three dimensional pattern which are woven with thin and light materials with various solidity and delicacy through various techniques of mixing and three dimensional expression. The third, the expected ripple effect and utilization generated from the development of fashion products are as followings: As material characteristics of jacquard, It needs the specialization of various techniques and specialized production system in using jacquard, and the specialized technique and system would make it possible to produce not only the higher value-added products through expressing affluent colors and delicate design but also competitive products through cutting the process and cost, eventually, it would lead to the expansion of the jacquard market of super-sensitive prestige. Therefore, it is remarkable that various development of products toward the global market and the prestige female fashion market can suggest the vision that make the national fashion industry develop into the higher value-added knowledge industry integrating technology and culture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.75-84
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• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.

• Steel and Composite Structures
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.337-353
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• 2018

In previous weak-axis moment connection tests, brittle fracture always initiated near the edge of the beam flange groove weld due to force flow towards the stiffer column flanges, which is the opposite pattern as strong-axis moment connections. As part of the China NSFC (51278061) study, this paper tested two full-scale novel weak-axis reduced beam section moment connections, including one exterior frame connection specimen SJ-1 under beam end monotonic loading and one interior frame joint specimen SJ-2 under column top cyclic loading. Test results showed that these two specimens were able to satisfy the demands of FEMA-267 (1995) or ANSI/AISC 341-10 (2010) without experiencing brittle fracture. A parametric analysis using the finite element software ABAQUS was carried out to better understand the cyclic performance of the novel weak-axis reduced beam section moment connections, and the influence of the distance between skin plate and reduced beam section, a, the length of the reduced beam section, b, and the cutting depth of the reduced beam section, c, on the cyclic performance was analyzed. It was found that increasing three parametric values reasonably is beneficial to forming beam plastic hinges, and increasing the parameter a is conducive to reducing stress concentration of beam flange groove welds while increasing the parameters b and c can only reduce the peak stress of beam flange groove welds. The rules recommended by FEMA350 (2000) are suitable for designing the proposed weak-axis RBS moment connection, and a proven calculation formulation is given to determine the thickness of skin plate, the key components in the proposed weak-axis connections. Based on the experimental and numerical results, a design procedure for the proposed weak-axis RBS moment connections was developed.

• Korea Science and Art Forum
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• v.25
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• pp.379-388
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• 2016

There are some studies to get rid of slice patterns in coronal and sagittal images by FFT(Fast Fourier Transform) and Notch filter. However, the use of a notch filter is the ringing effect according to the rapid frequency change occurs in common. Therefore, this study will be to evaluate the shape and effect of the notch filter. In addition, it is proposed a new notch filter design. Results of the study are as follows. First, Emission-Notch filter was relatively naturally correcting the cutting pattern. Second, Emission-Notch filter to use as Ringing effect is reduced relatively. The next through these findings and further research progress more completely removed the Ringing effect, and expects to reproduce the data close to the actual human body information.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.261-274
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• 1996

In the present age dominate by both cer-taingty of 1% and uncertainty of 99% 'Fuzzy thinking' of Bart Kosko that is the way to solve the problems by the scientific way through a worldview of Buddhism or Taoism greatly prevails around the world over 'Lateral greatly prevails around the world over 'Lateral thinking' and the authenticity or the right and-wrong of the uncertainty which is the thinking way to find the answer of the problems of illogical way of Edward de Beno against the western vertical thinking were Concurrently fashion designers over the world also adopt the oriental elements. But there exist differences of thoughts between the orient and the occident. And they have dif-ferent thinking way of aestheticism and references of the value on the beauty. Not only beauty but the view through the mind as intuitional thought in which not only the rec-ognition of sense but also the rationalism and the naturalness play key role. The aesthetic sense in the orient contains both the truth and virtue. 2) The beauty of the mean It's from the thought of neutralization of Confucius. The mean or moderation state which in harmony with ethical virtue and aes-thetic beauty is the ideal and is the ultimate. Therefore the thought of Confucian is the creativity in which the balance and the har-mony is most important. Fashion design is also one of the representation of the mean because the spirit of the designer is harmonized for-mlessly with the object of the model of the fashion design. 2) The beauty of skillfulness It indicates the Taoism of Lao-tzu and Chuangtzu. It takes a super-artistic declar-ation that human can feel and recognize the color of colorlessness the sound of sound-lessness and the taste of tastelessness. The thought of arts affected by Taoism is 'ad-vanced age' called the beauty of skillfulness. The view of arts of lao-tzu takes the beauty of cosmos and the nature as a standard. Es-pecially the beauty of inactivity is recognized by the linkage between the beauty and the ugliness. And these things appear in fashion design as a design element such as humor or exaggeration. 3) The beauty of non-dualism It is thought of Buddhism that all evil passions of worry occur form the opposition in dualism. Finally this thought leads to that everything is consistent and truth is only one from the point of view that virtue and vice has on linkage that is 'no virtues no vices' and 'one with two, two, with one, one is not two' A big tendency like this became the root forma-tion of the thought of the oriental arts. 3. Characteristics of the oriental aesthetic sense on the present fashion design 1) The formation of the fashion design on the oriental elements In the picture-incantation which was a representation of an era when the thought of 'cosmic dual forces' dominated the basic polygons of 'a circle square triangle' means both 'one two three' and 'the negative positive mean' of cosmic elements. From this point of view the was of planner cutting in the Orient is dif-ferent from that of the Occidental which is in three-dimensional. The planner polygon type of the cut-pieces comes to have the meaning of the three-dimension when they consist of a suit that has the combination of each cut-piece. This shows the consistency with the principle of cosmos creation of Taoism that one is two two is three and three is every-thing. 2) The coloring and the symbolic represen-tation of the fashion design on the orien-tal elements The sense on the colors in the Orient from the thought of 'the cosmic dual forces and the five elements' is not the experi-enced from the knowledge but contains the consideration of philosophy Five-primary-color representing compass directions Blue(East) Red(South) Yellow(Center) White (West) and Black (North) is called ' the posi-tive' for this five-primary-color secondary-color which comes from the compound of the primary colors is called 'the negative' The thought of 'the cosmic dual forces and the five elements' is also an theory containing the natural order of the cos-mos and this shows the perceptional differ-ence that they are not conceptual but to be recognized and fell directly. A thought of Buddhism which is 'Colors are colorlessness and Clolorlessness are color's proves that. 3) The pattern and symbolic representation of the fashion design on the oriental elements The pattern as a visual style is a figure of symbolic representation which adopt the mental and physical world of human and are the compo-sition of artistic revelation of the human nature and the religous thought of incantation. Es-pecially the symbolic representation of the oriental thought of Confusion. Buddhism and Taoism There are patterns such as plants aminals the oriental four gods and geometry. From the above it's the time toward the 21'th century when the world is constructing one global area and one historical zone. And the exotic mood of the Orient represented in the fashion which doesn't make the common feeling in general does not cease to develop only to express the visual modeling but also adopts the thought religion and the art which are the root of the Orientail and contains inherent willing of modeling.

• Journal of The Korean Society of Grassland and Forage Science
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.157-163
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• 1986

Synthesis and accumulation pattern of Weender components in orchardgrass (Dactylis glomerata L.) cv. Potomac and Baraula, perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne L.) cv. Reveille and Semperweide and meadow fescue (Festuca pratensis Huds.) cv. Cosmos 11 and N.F.G. were studied under different growth environments and cutting managements. The field experiments were conducted as a split plot design with three cutting regimes of 6-7 cuts at grazing stage, 4-5 cuts at silage and 3 cuts at hay stage from 1975 to 1979 in Korea and West Germany. The results obtained are summarized as follows: 1. Air temperature, rainfalls and solar radiation were found to be an important meteorological factors influenced to synthesis and accumulation of Weender components. Under high temperature and strong solar radiation during summer season in Korea, accumulation of crude fiber and cell-wall constituents (NDF) in the plants, as average of all grass species and cutting regimes, were increased to about 30.1% and 48.7% from 27,9% and 42.9% in spring, respectively, while total nonstructural carbohydrates (TNC) were decreased to 1.52% in summer from 4.01% in spring. In West Germany, the concentration of Weeder components showed little seasonal variation. 2. Crude fiber and neutral detergent fiber (NDF) were shown higher concentration in orchardgrass than those of perennial ryegrass and meadow fescue, but N-free extractions and TNC as well as net energy value were less accumulated in orchardgrass. Orchardgrass contained lower net energy contents with 534 StE. 431 StE and 575 StE/kg for Suweon, Cheju and Freising, respectively, as compared with 624 StE (Suweon), 491 StE (Cheju) and 657 StE/kg (Freising) in meadow fescue.

• Journal of Korean Association for Spatial Structures
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• v.7 no.3 s.25
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• pp.57-66
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• 2007

The membrane structures, a kind of lightweight soft structural system, are used for spatial structures. The material property of the membrane has strong axial stiffness, but little bending stiffness. The design procedure of membrane structures are needed to do shape finding, stress-deformation analysis and cutting pattern generation. In shape finding, membrane structures are unstable structures initially. These soft structures need to be introduced initial stresses because of its initial unstable state, and happen large deformation phenomenon. Therefore, in this paper, we investigate the convergence of solution and the speed according to the control variables and the method of shape analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.407-417
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to develop designs and patterns of a functional brassiere. For this purpose, women who have protruding and drooping breasts with 75B for their brassiere size were sampled. The fitting test for the fitness and function of test brassiere and control brassiere were carried out twice and compared the results from the both in terms of front, rear and side looks. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The results from measuring the level of sag and spread, and volume and protrusion of breasts shows that there are some distinctive differences in the measurements before and after wearing the test brassiere and the test brassiere is proved to be very effective in correcting breasts' shapes. 2. Front look: Since the two front cutting lines of the test brassiere served to have the curved main part pressing against the breasts, it could support breasts to more than satisfactory level. In addition, upperline panel and side panels of the test brassiere were found to have the upperline of the upper cup pressed against the breasts and at the same time it pressed and gathered the flab around upper part of the breasts and armpits that helped to rearrange the shape of the breasts. It is also proved that the two-pieced test brassier was found to be more functional in supporting the lower cup of the breasts. 3. Rear look: The test brassier was made up of two wide U-shaped wings with 2.5cm tape on its lower sides. Each wing has 4 lines and 3 hems (5.5cm). For this reason, the test brassiere was tighter and better fitted on its back. 4. Side look and entire look: The wings of the test brassiere might look wider than that of the control brassier which has conventional straight-shaped wings, but it was analyzed that the test brassiere held the upper and lower sides of the wings more effectively to be more pressed against the breast. Therefore, the test brassiere scored higher in terms of adjusting to body movements, while the control brassiere looked better in overall terms. 5. The functional brassier fur protruding and drooping breasts developed from the experiments of this study is a full side stretch brassiere which covers the entire breasts satisfactorily. The pattern drafting methods are suggested in to .

• Journal of Korean Society of Steel Construction
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.33-42
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• 2010

Patterning with a geodesic line is essential for economical or efficient usage of membrane materialsin fabric tension membrane structural engineering and analysis. The numerical algorithm to determine the geodesic line for membrane structures is generally classified into two. The first algorithm finds a non-linear shape using a fictitious geodesic element with an initial pre-stress, and the other algorithm is the geodesic line cutting or searching algorithm for arbitrarily curved 3D surface shapes. These two algorithms are still being used only for the three-node plane stress membrane element, and not for the four-node element. The lack of a numerical algorithm for geodesic lines with four-node membrane elements is the main reason for the infrequent use of the four-node membrane element in membrane structural engineering and design. In this paper, a modified numerical algorithm is proposed for the generation of a geodesic line that can be applied to three- or four-node elements at the same time. The explicit non-linear static Dynamic Relaxation Method (DRM) was applied to the non-linear geodesic shape-finding analysis by introducing the fictitiously tensioned 'strings' along the desired seams with the three- or four-node membrane element. The proposed algorithm was used for the numerical example for the non-linear geodesic shape-finding and patterning analysis to demonstrate the accuracy and efficiency, and thus, the potential, of the algorithm. The proposed geodesic shape-finding algorithm may improve the applicability of the four-node membrane element for membrane structural engineering and design analysis simultaneously in terms of the shape-finding analysis, the stress analysis, and the patterning analysis.