• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.99-108
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• 2017

In modern society, the succession and development of tradition can be an enabler of the state in the flow of culture, and the process of modernizing traditional costumes is meaningful work. Neckties are essential in modern Korean men's wear, and they are an important part of men's ornamentation. Accordingly, this study aims to present a necktie design that applies the traditional men's ornaments such as the Ip, Ipyoung and Manggeonsik. The research method is based on a literature review and presents four Korean necktie designs via Adobe Illustrations. As a result of analyzing the beauty of the traditional Korean men's ornamentation, it was categorized into rhythmical beauty, emphasis beauty, and natural beauty. Applying this to necktie design, Design 1 imagined the silhouette of a man wearing a Got and Durumagi. This applied emphasis beauty. Design 2 applied the shaking images of Got and Got-kkeun to apply rhythmical and emphasis beauty. Design 3 applied a man's upper body silhouette and the shape of wearing a Got. This was to apply natural beauty and emphasis beauty. Design 4 applied the shape of Got-kkeun and Gwanja to rhythmical beauty and natural beauty. The significance of this study is that the development of necktie designs using formative Korean elements can be a part of efforts to recognize the possibility of traditional Korean culture and to explore developmental directions under the current situation in which Western clothing is accepted without thought. It is a good idea to suggest the possibility of the modern use of Korean men's ornaments.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.1-17
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• 2007

This study is a review of Ipsik, the decorative ornaments found on traditional Korean horsehair hats, known as Ipja, which were worn by men in the late Joseon Dynasty. In a broad sense, Ipsik are regarded as men's accessories. Therefore, although this study is limited to Ipja, it is significant in the sense that it delves into one facet of men's accessories in detail. Because the appearance of the horsehair hats was rather mundane, Ipsik and Ibyeong were added as ornaments. During the Joseon period, various types of hat ornaments existed, named Maeksu, Hosu, Gongjagu, Sangmo, Jingdori, Ijeon, Guyeongja and Ibyeong. A person's social ranking and class could be discerned by the materials used in the Ipsik he wore. Jeongja, a decorative accessory used to attach to an official's hat, was institutionalized in the sixteenth year of King Gongmin's reign(1367), during the Goryeo Dynasty, prior to the founding of China's Ming Dynasty in 1368, which indicates that Jeongja were influenced by the Yuan Dynasty. A record in Lao Chi'ta (a textbook of spoken Chinese estimated circa 1346) confirms this fact. Based on a review of literature, we learn that just as with Ongno, Jeongja were imported for use on Jeonrip, a soldier's hat. During the Ching Dynasty, Jeongja were further subdivided and more exquisitely designed. On the other hand, in the Joseon Dynasty, a rule was handed down mandating that a royal prince use gold for his jeongja, officials at third rank or above use silver, and governors, commanders in chief, and officials with the Office of Inspector General and Office of Censor General use jade. Inspectors were permitted to use crystal. Jeongja made of jade were used until the late Joseon Dynasty.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.33
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• pp.94-135
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• 2000

Rituals for burying the tae(胎) is a unique royal tradition of Korea that lasted from Unified Shilla(統一新羅) Kingdom to Joseon(朝鮮) dynasty. However, all of the currently known taesil(胎室)s are of the royal descendants of Joseon dynasty. Therefore, Taesils made earlier than Joseon dynasty are only known by historical documents. Taesils of the royal descendants of Joseon Dynasty divide into two kinds. One is for those of princes and princesses and the other is for those of Kings. The structure of taesils of princes and princesses is a stone chest(石函) in a pit which dug on the apex of the Taebong(胎峰) containing a pair of Tae(胎)-urn(the inner urn and outer urn), a stone tablet called Jiseok(誌石) which the date of baby's birth and Tae burial is inscribed in. And a tombstone-shaped stone tablet which called Taesilbi(胎室碑) was built on the ground. And the underground structure of Taesils of Kings is identical with that of taesils of princes and princesses, but instead of just an stone tablet, this has a Budo(浮屠);means stupa of a monk in korean)-shaped stone structure on the top of the stone chest, and an octagon-shaped porch was built around it, and a Tapbi(塔碑) was built. This treatise is focused on the current status and change process of stone ornaments. The subject of this treatise is 54 Taesils which were transferred to Seosamnung(西三陵) during the japanese occupation and Tae-urns and Jiseok(誌石)s from any other Taesil and its stone chest were not included in this treatise. Researches on Taesils can be great help to history by providing resources about genealogy of Jaseon royal family and social, economical status of that time. And researches on stone ornaments and tae-urns from Taesils can provide great help to stone art history and porcelain history of Joseon dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.15-28
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• 1995

This thesis focuses on the study of costume and ornaments of Shilla which had been severely affected by Uighur, and those of Uighur in Uighur self-governing district located in Shin Kang. East Turkestan, in Centrals Asia. This study aims to identifty the way of intergration of Uighur's costume and ornaments into Shilla, and orgins of Shill's costume and ornaments which had amix of internationl elelemnts thoursh cross exchanges, by comparing the differences between the two, and at the same time to clarify the pedigree of Korean costume and ornaments which are said to be udner a severe Chinese influence, by highlingting its uniqueness and originality . The result of the study demonstrates and originality of SHilla by melting foreign cultures into its own style in the process of accepting them. This means that the Shilla has recreated them in t도 form of simplification, and added naturalistic abstratness which is an element of Norther culture. The costume and ornaments are divided into coronets men's costuem, women's costume, and accessories 1. Coroncts A horse-riding man, and the costume type of 유고제 착유지체형 tell the Northern culture's influence on 백화수피기마인물채화담립 and patterns of a lotus flowr and arabesque show the 백화수피기마인물채색답립 has an influence of Buddhism with cluture of bordering countries of Western China , The origin of 뱍회수피제안형건(원정형, 방정형) lies in Northern cultures which can be found in ancient tombs of the Huns in noin-Ila , and stone caves of Jizil in Kochang. The wall paintings in Alexandropol, Murutuk and 돈황 No. 409 cave show that 초화형입식계금관 is under the influence of Northern culture, and Bezerkrick No, 25 cave and 회 번 in Kocho also show 수목녹각형입식관 is under the influence of Northern culture, with its origin in Novecherkaask. In this regard, the transformed coroncts of Shilla has shows a blended culture of Shilla with Nothern, Chinese, and Western cultures. 2. Men's Costume 반령포 derives from cultures of bordering countries of Western China centering around Uighur and Turkey. 연주문 in Uighur prince's costume and in Uighur paintings of Central Asia were reflected into the arts of Shilla in a direct way, and the motive of Uighur was deviatelly expressed at Shilla's arts in the form of simplicity , and naturalistic abstract paintings as in shown at 입수쌍조문 in tiles and brick. Along with this , 고착지체형 costume originates from Eurasia's Northern horseriding costumes as was shown in a golden man in B.C.4-5C which is now possessed by Kazakstan Republic Academy Archelogy Center Museum, and a golden figure from Skitai ancient caves, an the origin is carried away into wall paintings of Kizil No.14. cave in 8c and Astana's early period ancient tomb. No.6. 3. Women's Costume The hair styles of Shilla people are either 변발 or up -style with a lot of hair around it whose origin can be seen in Astana No.216 and No.187 caves of Kochang and Uighur's wall paintings of royal princess's hair style. Astana's middle period No. 206 and No.230 tombs reveal the its origin of 고착장군 while Astana early period No. 6 tomb shows that of 광유풍만형. 4. Accessories The earrings with small golden beads is seen at earring of figure holding a sword in wall painting of figure holding a sword in wall painting of Kizil in about 5 C. and those of a offering people in Sorchuk wall paintings. The earrings with small golden beads originates from a golden pendant of Shivargan, Afganistan, and golden pendants and other golden and metal accessories from Chrioba ancient tombs in Skiti Critia peninsula. Shilla's costume derives from the costume style of horse-ridding man, which proves the fact that Shilla people are horse-ridding peoplewith excellent horse-ridding techniques, and traditions. The people of Shilla are from horse-ridding people of local mounted momads in Northern part of Siberia steppe and this origin of Northern culture had been carried into Uighur in East Turkestan. At the same time , Shilla has a wealth and power since it was rich in gold and iron , thus producing lots of materials made of them. The results of this study emphasizes Shilla's identity and self-control by creating an independent an innovative heterogeneous culture since Shill's active exchanges with East Asia allowed it to accept the most civilized Uighur culture in East Turkestan among Altai languate which had frequent cross contacts with India and Europe.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.175-184
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• 2012

A purpose of this research is to find out characteristic of bronze artifacts and gold ornaments excavated from Xiongnu tombs No. 2~4 at Duurlig Nars in Mongolia through scientific analysis of them. The Tombs are comparatively small. There were still lots of relics remaining although the tombs had been already robbed. Also the tombs are evaluated important since the origin of them show coexisting of chinese and northern style. First of all, an analysis result about bronze vessels found in this site, they have high lead(Pb) content and relatively low tin(Sn) content, as compared with the Bronze Han Mirror and End-fittings of Bronze Parasol Rib. Especially in case of bronze tray and bronze lamp from the no. 2 tomb and also bronze cauldron from the no. 4 tomb contain only 1wt% of tin which means binary alloy composition(Cu-Pb). Also, in the case of gold ornaments found in the no. 2 tomb, they have comparatively high purity. And the research suppose that the high possibility of that they were used soldering using alloy of Au-Cu or diffused bonding(using malachite and copper oxide) for joining gold grains of gold granulation ornament. Further scientific research and analysis in Mongolia and other countries will provide more clues to solve mystery of Xiongnu culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.681-706
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• 2000

This study is intended to understand an implication system and significance in the current community which a body image symbolizes by correlating it with fashion that is on the rise as a principal issue in various fields. For this study, the symbolism of the body image was contemplated in terms of philosophy and art, and then on the basis of it, the symbolism of the body image shown in modern fashion design was analyzed through fashion works. The research results are as follows, 1. The manifestation of sex can be taken as the symbolism of the body image which is expressed in modern fashion design. Recently sexual chaos and vagueness such as homosexuality and bisexuality are expressed through a dress and its ornaments. Though displaying sexual characteristics of male and female as they are exposing a sign or a diagram, decorating a part of body or representing sex in garments, uncertain sex identity in modern society is manifested in dress and its ornaments. It is to deny absoluteness regarding sex and emphasize diversity indwelt in human beings, and after all it shows to pursue the human essence. 2. Another symbolism of the body image is body expression as the human race and an ethnic group. The discriminating situations and the restoration of their status appeared in modern fashion too. Moreover, their cultures and issues came to alter the aesthetic standard of body made from a view of the Western white supremacist. Hereupon, fashion trends like ethnic fashion, Orientalism and African look etc. appear according to this tendency, which represents race and national identity and in addition, which signifies to present transcendental human conception embracing alienated human conception. 3. The symbolism of the body image expressed in a body, and a dress and its ornaments as nature can be considered in terms of the concern on environmental contamination and the respect of echo system. Getting away from reigning over, developing and stamping down nature at their will, the human beings pursue unity with nature, which is described in fashion. They are stressing that natural materials and objects such as animal, plant and soil etc. should activily be introduced into fashion and humans are a communal fate group and should reframe their status in nature at last. 4. The body image shown in a body, a dress and its ornaments as technology is transformed and recreated by modern scientific techniques and medical science to show post human conception namely, forthcoming future human conception as a cyborg which loses individual identity. This presents a perfect future human conception with high level of preternatural power but after all, leaves us a task to seek the meaning of human existence in alienation caused by the loss of human identity and existence. In this manner, the moderns crave for perceiving the identity of a natural human being in the current thoughts tendency of the modern times such as postmodernism, post structuralism, deconstructionism, feminism and so on, which build discussions affecting the art and fashion worlds. The categories, like sexual characteristics indwelt in a human body, racial classifications, the natural environment surrounding human beings and development of science, bring out the importance of the internal and external meaning in today's fashion which a human body contains, and present sew human conception in the coming future society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.445-460
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• 1994

This paper analyzes Empire style costume based on the fashion theory of Lauer and Lauer. We classify fashion into tow categories, a personal identities, the social competition and sexual competition, he economic factor as a functional factor, and the reflective thing of zeitgeist, eroticism as a dynamic factor. These factors can be visualized from fashion design, textiles, ornaments expressed in the paintings.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.65-65
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• 2001

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.135-150
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is on the dance costume of ancient Egypt. First, after the present study looked onto a specialty of Egyptian dance, and then the present study classified Egyptian dress into type and form, quality of material and color tone, hair and headdress and other ornaments. Fundamentally, this study was intended to understand the traditional culture and to grasp the peculiarity of Egyptian dancing dress. This study was progressed as a theoretical research by using documents, photographs, literatures of museum, etc. The results of the study could be summarized as follows. Egyptian dancing featured the earliest form of stage dance in the world and improved religion dancing and sideshow dancing getting out of the form of primitive dance, and also there were professional dancers who developed highly skillful dancing technique. They played a role in disseminating it to many countries of the Mediterranean sea. Dancers of Egypt wore a variety of cloths like the general people. Accordingly, there were no big differences in qualify of material, color tone and other ornaments as well. Yet in accordance with improvement of dance, there was a show-up of clothing of professional dancers and changing of detail parts. So dancing dress was formed while distinguished from general clothing. Therefore, dancing dress of Egypt represents racial characteristics, activity, originality and pursues not authority, but respect of physical beauty or natural beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.29-37
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• 2010

Contemporary fashion emphasizes artistic, decorative aspects beside functional, practical targets, and pursues various materials. Also, rising of the design-based tendency, using the various tonality, texture and unveiling the new processing method, decorating technology and a new-material have made the ornaments as one of the figure that expose aesthets and individuality of designers and owner. With its unique expression and artistic beauty the design of ornament pervaded their field to figurative arts. This study aimed at the weaving technique using a hooked needle which is a crochet, and the making manufactured skirts item, moreover the study focused on putting the skirts item into the ornaments of the crochet. The skirt, which was thought to belong to women only, made easy and economic goods. Consumer also wanted to feel free and comfortable as manufactured items did, and it added individuality and practical use. This research tried to develop the design of crochet items to supplement the higher value-added, after examining the theoretical background of crochet, and analyzing crochet trend from 2005-06 F/W to 2010 S/S. As the result, it could be seen that the crochet may offer contemporary ornament art expressing formativeness of handcraft and fineness to the era of replica and manufactured goods.