• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.981-991
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to observe the cultural phenomenon in modern society from the point of view of pastiche, analyze the characteristics of pastiche, create a framework for studying modem fashion and body ornamentation, one of the facts of cultural phenomenon and, based on these aspects, will observe the pastiche phase, which occurred in body ornamentation of modem fashion in the late 1990's Collections. The characteristics of pastiche is that it transcends meaning, alters the usage of objects, raises the beauty of alienation and pursues temporariness. Observing pastiche, according to its definition and characteristics, as it appears in body ornamentation of modem fashion, the results were as follows: First of all, in terms of transcending meaning, body ornamentation of modern fashion is a mixture of all past styles. Secondly, use of objects in body ornamentation of fashion has shown the use of things which have never been used in accessorizing before, such as birdcages, bones of body, castle. Third, in terms of the raising of the beauty of alienation, accessories from countries, which were not high interest groups in the past, such as piercing, scar, corpulent, are being used as high-fashion accessories in body ornamentation of modern fashion. Fourth, in terms of the pursuit of temporariness, external ornamentation in body ornamentation of modern fashion is seen as permanent changes to the outer body, such as tattoos, piercings, hair color and the more temporary changes, such as coloring.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.132-149
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to establish the theoretical view for the analysis of the aesthetic characteristics of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics. Also, this study examined the universality and particularity of aesthetic characteristics in Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes. To establish the theoretical view for the aesthetic analysis of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics, this study examined the relationship between the internal spirit of human, culture and the external form of dress. Based on this consideration, the viewpoints for the analysis of dress formation were the 'Form' as the basic structure of the external formation of dress and 'the Ornamentation' as the emphasis of the artistic characteristics of dress. The common world view shared by Korea and Japan holds the thinking system that everything is created from 'not to bee(無)' to 'being(有)'. This view emphasizes the totality and circulation of energy called 'Ki(氣)'. According to this view, oriental culture has been developed by intuition and pleasure called 'Heung(興)'. Therefore, the form of the oriental culture includes ambiguity and emphasizes the total harmony. These characteristics appeared in dress as the design of ambiguity, asymmetry and concealment. The meaning of the ornamentation in oriental world was the unified harmony of diversity and the colors and patterns of oriental dress were used by the symbolic meaning of Yin-Yang & Wu-Shing (陰陽五行)s principles. On the basis of the world view of the Ki, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes commonly shared the aesthetic values of concealment, emptiness, and symbolism. Also, their costumes expressed the difference, especially in the ornamentation. Korean costume expressed the beauty of simplicity and naivety, and Japanese costume expressed the beauty of ornamentation and nonornamentatIon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.13-25
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• 2008

This study is on the various style and characteristics of mask, and was performed empirically by reviewing the related materials such as the literature, precedent studies, fashion works, and home and foreign fashion magazines. As a result of the study, the style of mask in the modern fashion is roughly categorized by full-covered style, half-covered style, and over-half-covered style which is covered over 50% of a face. And, mask is utilized on a hat or a dress all over, or is produced by a elaborate makeup. Mask with lots of variation has three big characteristics, which are sense of disguise, sense of ornamentation, sense of grotesquery. First, sense of disguise means deviation or tool of affectation instead of cultural standard norm through transforming or masquerading as an imagery person or animal in ancient myths, famous artistes, etc. It could be developed to express a designer's identity. Second, mask decorated with various styles and materials has sense of ornamentation, which means natural human desire of expression for beauty, and at the same time human mind longing for experience a fantastic and ideal inner world being deviated from the present world even indirectly. Third, ignoring the original format of eyes, nose, and mouth, using extraordinarily various techniques such as distortion, extreme, exaggeration, concealment, or combining with animal images, mask has sense of grotesquery inducing humor and horror simultaneously.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.22-32
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate the aesthetic characteristics of check fashion of the 20th century and to analyze the formativeness for them shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) Before the First World War, check patterns were used for S silhouette dresses and hobble dresses. During the two wars, they were used for garçonne style dresses and military suits. Check patterns were used for mini style in the 1960s, uni-sex style in the 1970s, and power suits in the 1980s. Especially after the 1980s, check patterns have followed the fashion trend of each season and appeared in retro styles. Consequently, the aesthetic characteristics of check dresses of the 20th century are traditionality, ornamentation and eclecticism. 2) Traditionality of check fashion shown in recent collections was implied in the classic styles like suits with its grey glen check, avant-garde styles like boxy coat with its dark blue tartan check, and so forth. Ornamentation was shown in the modern styles like jackets decorated with block check colored white and black, casual styles like bomber jackets with hound tooth check colored white and black, and so forth. Eclecticism was reflected in the romantic styles like one-piece dresses with hound tooth check colored white and light blue, elegant styles like low-cut dress with its dark blue window pane check, ethnic styles like long cape with gingham check colored white and black, and so forth.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.755-765
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• 2006

This study is on the esthetic characteristics in the haute couture work of Chanel. It first reviews the lives and the fashion philosophy of Chanel, a senior designer and Lagerfeld as representatives of the maison, from the haute couture collection since 2000. The results of the study are the following. First, reinterpreting the tradition, Chanel reproduced historical dress items or silhouette with modern sense, or she created a new modern Chanel image through her original restructuring and dismantling. Second, Chanel expressed balanced beauty of compounded eclecticism by accord between simplicity and ornamentation, which meant her design showed impartial beauty with simple silhouette, decoration with colors, accessories, and ornaments. Third, Chanel did not divide the value between men and women, and instead expressed androgyny through dismantling each gender's characteristics by borrowing or mixing. As a result, she emphasized the female image or created a new style through expressing symbolic image embracing masculinity.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.113-139
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• 2008

This study for hair, traditional ornamentation and make up style of Korea, China, Japan. Their special aesthetic character of hair ornamentation and styles are similar difference of costume aesthetics. First we study about hair style of three countries We can find their different development characteristics of aesthetics and customes, cultural style of three countries. It is translated plain and simple for Korean, exaggerative and decorative for Chinese, romantic decoravive and decoration of Tang Dynasty influnced for Japanes. All styles are showed in modern oriental styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.59-72
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to understand how 19th Century's romanticism fashion is expressed in modern fashion and to investigate their relationship. The materials for study of Post-modern fashion after the 1990s are collected and analyzed from ${\ulcorner}Gap\;Collections{\lrcorner}$. The characteristics of romanticism such as sensuality, ornamentation, exoticism and mingler, which were demonstrated in the previous study, are analyzed as follows in the modern fashion. ${\cdot}$Sensuality was represented by exaggerating the human body with silhouette of past romantic fashion, making the human body mysterious with see-through material including romantic patterns and ornaments, and emphasizing human body line using thin drape-like materials. ${\cdot}$Ornamentation was created by combining skills brought from the past with newly developed techniques and materials so that it provides gorgeousness. ${\cdot}$Exoticism was expressed in more diverse exotic patterns, colors, accessories and details because of accelerated internationalization. ${\cdot}$Mingler was achieved by using materials which does not seem to be suitable for romanticism, and mixing of contrastive or heterogeneous patterns and materials. It was caused by the scientific development and trend of respecting diversity. Romanticism increases the diversity and possibility of new point of views in fashion, It also shows the desires to seek inner peace adopting images of different periods and culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.47-60
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• 2010

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modern fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Gilles Deleuze. A new framework for analyzing the changes of dress style based upon the 'Difference' theory derived from Deleuze's theory and from his interpretations of paintings was developed. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are deformation and hybridization. They are derived from the Deleuze's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Bacon. The aesthetic values of the Romantic style in the 19th century dress are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. And the formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to deformation and hybridization and the results are as follows: first, deformation caused by exaggeration or emphasis in the modern Romantic fashion creates changeability of the form, destruction of the 19th century style, volume, and ornamentation. Second, hybridization by combining heterogeneous characteristic between times and genders (for example, the 19th century and modern times or masculinity and femininity) frees body from the dress and changes the dress silhouettes and ornamentation. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modern fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modern society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology. It can be said that this is an example of the Deleuze's 'becoming' theory.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.95-109
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• 2010

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze the formative characteristic and the aesthetic values of Romantic style. To attain the goal of this study, the selected objects are the Romantic styles that were prevalent from the 1830s to the 1880s. The methodology for this study consists of literary research, aesthetics, dress and case study based upon the analysis of the 19th century dress. Based upon the theoretical study, two results are derived from the analysis of Romantic style in $19^{th}$ century dress. First, the formative characteristics of Romantic style dress are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. The suppression of body is embodied by two ways. One is tightening body parts, such as the off-the-shoulder line and the corset, and the other is applying weights on body through the wearing of layers of petticoat, crinoline and bustle. The characteristic of the fixed form created the fixed silhouettes of women's dress, for example, an X-silhouette formed with wide shoulders created by big puffed sleeves, narrow waist by corset, and wide hemline of voluminous skirt and petticoats. In addition to the X-silhouette, the bustle style created fixed h-silhouette. Volume in the women's dress were visually expressed by big puffed sleeves, a huge skirt and petticoat made with gathers, pleats and flounces, crinolines and a bustle. Ornamentation was used to express an elegant and fantastic style not only by using luxurious materials in various colors and patterns, but also by applying sumptuous details and trimmings. Second, the aesthetic values of Romantic style dress are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. Women's dress of the 19th century not only restricted free movement and symbolized men's wealth and status, but also was used as an important tool for seducing men by exposing and accentuating the sexual body, thus becoming a symbol of fertility as a metaphor of pregnancy and uterus. These aesthetic values represented in dress incorporated the contemporary requirements of women of the time.