• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.74-85
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• 1997

폴 푸아레 (1879-1944)가 패션 역사상 혁명적이라고 할 수 있는 여성의 코르셋을 제거시켰다는 것은 익히 알려진 사실이다. 그리고 그러한 결과로 인해 발생된 새로운 직선형의 실루엣에 화려한 색채와 장식을 하여 이전 시대와는 전혀 다른 현대패션의 근원이 되었다. 본 연구는 푸아레의 새로운 직선 실루엣과 화려한 색채와 경이적 장식의 근원이 다름아닌 동양이라는데 중점을 두었다. 이미 국내의 몇편의 논문에서 이러한 논의가 지적되어 왔으나 다른 논제를 다루는 중에 언급이 되었고 당시의 작품이나 동시대의 자료를 분석한 것이 아닌 근래의 출판물에 의존한 연구가 대부분이었다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 그의 동양풍 디자인의 근원을 밝히는데 있어 가능한한 1 차적 자료의 접근을 시도하였다. 1912년 작품인 이브닝 드레스, 터번, 숄, 구두 각 1점과 그의 작품 의도와 생애의 추구를 말해주는 자서전(1930년 불어본 및 1931년 영어본)과 보그(Vogue)지의 기사(1920년 2월호, 9월호) 등을 통하여 그의 동양에 대한 관심을 살펴보았다. 그 결과 푸아레의 동양 영향의 근원은 19세기 말 유럽에서 절정을 이룬 'Sino-Japonism'(중국-일본주의)의 심취, 러시아 발레단의 의상과 색채, 천일야화의 영향에 의한 중동(페르시아)에 대한 열망, 그리고 인도 토민병의 복식에서 비롯된 터번에의 매료 등이었음을 알 수 있었다. 이러한 근원에서 탄생된 디자인으로는 직선형의 튜닉, 기모노 소매(처음엔 푸아레 자신도 중국의 것으로 혼동을 하기도 했지만), 하렘팬츠, 비대칭적인 카프탄식의 코트, 원색의 사용, 극동지역의 직물과 문양, 술장식, 터번 등으로 나타내었다. 따라서 폴 푸아레의 동양적인 관심은 단지 개인적 '취향 혹은 취미(taste)'가 아니라 한 시대양식으로 자리잡은 '동양주의(Orientalism)'라 할 수 있으며 이러한 푸아레의 동양주의는 당시의 패션에 있어 신체의 선을 부정하여 코르셋을 제거 시키게한 그의 모더니즘의 근거가 된다. 본연구의 제한점으로 1차적 자료를 수집하는데에 있어 보다 폭넓지 못했던 점을 밝혀둔다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.14-34
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• 2015

The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.

• The Journal of Korean Medical History
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.97-103
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• 2015

The medical information of Lee-Kyukyeong has been considered as one of the cases delivering western medical knowledge, attracting public attention. The medical theories delivered from western countries were very unfamiliar and unique however he knew that e dissection information of East Asia was more detailed compared to the dissection theories of East Asia left in East Asia. And, he made a valuation of the East Asian traditional medical information related to human body in the book. However, the information that he left was mixed with medical books, many written statements and encyclopedias in fashion etc. and many information written by him delivers very unique legends with the confirmation of the information about the human body. Therefore, there are many cases that these information are hard to be discussed at the same level and there are wrong information in therms of 'Fact' and introductions in terms of opposite contetns in the same article. This is originated from the advantages and limits that "OhjuYeonmunJangjeonSango" has, whose author tried to collect the knowledge as much as possible in the same frame under the identical topic. This is the example that shows the climate of the some intellectuals who made an example by accepting all kinds of information and making information of their own. This intelligent climate clearly shows the discordance between medical information suggested by Ohju and the medical reality that Ohju faced. In other words, there were latest information in "Ohju-Yeonmun-Jangjeon-Sango", but had to be sensitive in supply of medicines for Ohju who used to live in the backwoods. Therefore, the medical benefits that he could choose were single - medicine prescription that is closer to conventional medicine and experiential prescription and Yangsaengsoo which medical costs do not occur. These facts imply that the stories about the latest opinion that was in fashion to look at the medical reality in late Chosun Dynasty and detailed research on the daily life that one person faced should be accompanied.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.407-423
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze Bakst's stage costume illustrations for Ballets Russes. The Russian Ballets has renown in the West since the early 20th century. Diaghilev first made his name as the organizer of art exhibitions in Russia and Western Europe. Diaghilev risked presenting only ballets in 1909, that time Bakst designed $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu and Le Carnival. $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$ was something new which overwhelmed the French people by then. It was seen to be the achievement of Wagner's idea where all the elements; the music, the design, the choreography, and the dancing fused into a perfect whole. The entire production was a hitherto unseen harmony of colors, sounds and movements. For the 1911 season in Paris, Diaghilev planned to present six new ballets and Bakst designed four ballets. Bakst's design of the set and the costume greatly shocked the audience. His "Originality" shines on the fact that he introduced a palette of colors in theater for the first time in history. He used a magic of colors to suggest the secret meaning of what was happening on the stage. The results can be divided into three distinct characteristics. First, oriental designs such as $Cl{\acute{e}}op{\hat{a}}tre$, $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu, La $P{\acute{e}}ri$ and Le Dieu Blue with Russian, Indian and Persian traditional design in headdress and accessories ars found. Second, Le Carnival and La Spectre de la Rose used romantic styles with oriental details. Third, Greek chiton and Himation are used in Narcisse, $H{\acute{e}}l{\grave{e}}ne$ de Sparte, $L'Apr{\grave{e}}s-Midi\;d^{\grave{\;}}un$ Faune and Daphnis et $Chlo{\acute{e}}$ inspirde with various colors and geometic patterns. Bakst's orient of lush colored costumes, head dress, cushions, rugs and hangings became the immediate fashion imitated by Parisian couture houses and interior decorators.

• Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.821-828
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• 2008

Onchungeum, a herbal formula, which has been used for treatment of anemia due to bleeding, discharging blood and skin disease. In the present study, it was examined the effects of extract of Onchungeum (OCE) on the growth of human hepatocarcinoma cell lines Hep3B (p53 null type) and HepG2 (p53 wild type) in order to investigate the anti-proliferative mechanism by OCE. Treatment of Hep3B and HepG2 cells to OCE resulted in the growth inhibition in a dose-dependent manner, however Hep3B cell line exhibited a relatively strong anti-proliferative activity to OEC. Flow cytometric analysis revealed that OCE treatment in Hep3B cells caused G1 phase arrest of the cell cycle, which was associated with various morphological changes in a dose-dependent fashion. RT-PCR and immunoblotting data revealed that treatment of OCE caused the down-regulation of cyclin D1 expression, however the levels of cyclin E expression were not changed by OCE. The G1 arrest of the cell cycle was also associated with the induction of Cdk inhibitor p27 by OCE. Because the p53 gene is null in Hep3B cells, it is most likely that the induction of p21 is mediated through a p53-independent pathway. Moreover, p27 detected in anti-Cdk4 and anti-Cdk2 immunoprecipitates from the OCE-treated cells, suggesting that OCE-induced p27 protein blocks Cdk kinase activities by directing binding to the cyclin/Cdk complexes. Furthermore, OCE treatment potently suppresses the phosphorylation of retinoblastoma proteins and the levels of the transcription factor E2F-1 expression. Taken together, these results indicated that the growth inhibitory effect of OCE in Hep3B hepatoma cells was associated with the induction of G1 arrest of the cell cycle through regulation of several major growth regulatory gene products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.49-61
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• 2005

This study is to research the types and formation of the pieces for fastening the clothing in the western and oriental world from 18c to 19c. The pieces for fastening the clothing, depending on their formation, are classified as the ribbon type, the belt type, the button type, and the compound type. The ribbon type indicates fastening the clothing with the strips attached to the clothes. It is divided into the symmetry type and the asymmetry type by the looks of the ribbon alter it is tied. The belt type means fastening the clothing with a string or a belt, separated from the clothes. It is divided into the string type and the belt type. The button type is to fasten the clothing with buttons, button holes, and hooks. It is divided into the basic type, the wrapping type, and the knot type. The compound type is a mixture of two or three types out of the ribbon type, the belt type, and the button type. The pieces for fastening the clothing has aesthetic features as well as their functional characteristics. It has beautiful features like the harmonious beauty of Yin and Yen shown in the asymmetrical types, the beauty of spell wishing for health, long-life, wealth, wisdom, and so on, the beauty of decency showing the intention of refraining from exposing their body in public, the beauty of eroticism emphasizing the beauty of the human body, and the beauty of representing their social class, authority, affiliation, and so on.

• Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.500-506
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• 2004

The objective of the present study was to investigate the effects of aqueous extract from the healthful decoction utilizing Phellinus linteus (HDPL) on the growth of human lung carcinoma A549 cells. HDPL treatment declined the cell viability of A549 cells in a concentration-dependent manner and the anti-proliferative effects by HDPL treatment were associated with morphological changes such as membrane shrinking and cell rounding up. HDPL treatment did not affect the distribution of the cell cycle. Western blot analysis and RT-PCT data revealed that the levels of tumor suppressor p53 and cyclin-dependent kinase inhibitor p21WAF1/CIP1 in HDPL-treated A549 cells were remained unchanged. However, HDPL treatment inhibited the expression of cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) mRNA and protein in a concentration-dependent fashion. Additionally, the expression of human telomerase reverse transcriptase (hTERT), a main determinant of the telomerase enzymatic activity, was progressively down-regulated by HDPL treatment. Taken together, these findings suggest that HDPL-induced inhibition of human lung cancer cell proliferation is associated with the inhibition of several major growth regulatory gene products, such as COX-2 and hTERT, and HDPL may have therapeutic potential in human lung cancer.

• Korean Journal of Oriental Medicine
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.85-92
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• 2012

Objective : The purpose of this study was to investigate the anti-cancer effects of Sophorae Radix and the effects of 5-Fluorouracil (5-FU) in human gastric adenocarcinoma cells (AGS). Method : We used human gastric adenocarcinoma cell line, AGS cells. We examined cell death by MTT assay and caspase 3 assay with Sophorae Radix. To examine the inhibitory effects of Sophorae Radix, cell cycle (sub G1) analysis was done the AGS cells after three days with Sophorae Radix. The reversibility of Sophorae Radix was examined on one day to five days treatment with 100 ${\mu}g/ml$ Sophorae Radix. Result : Sophorae Radix inhibited the growth of AGS cells in a dose-dependent fashion. Also we showed that Sophorae Radix induced apoptosis in AGS cells by MTT assay, caspase 3 assay and sub-G1 analysis. Sophorae Radix combined with 5-FU markedly inhibited the growth of AGS cells compared to Sophorae Radix or 5-FU alone. After 3 days treatment of AGS cells with Sophorae Radix, the fraction of cells in sub-G1 phase was much higher than that of the control group. Conclusion : Our findings provide insight into unraveling the effects of Sophorae Radix in human gastric adenocarcinoma cells and developing therapeutic agents against gastric cancer.

• Korean Journal of Oriental Medicine
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.75-84
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• 2012

Objective : The purpose of this study was to investigate the anti-cancer effects of Sophorae Radix and the effects of Doxorubicin (DOX) in human breast adenocarcinoma cells (MCF-7). Method : We used human breast adenocarcinoma cell line, MCF-7 cells. We examined cell death by MTT assay and caspase 3 assay with Sophorae Radix. To examine the inhibitory effects of Sophorae Radix, cell cycle analysis was done the MCF-7 cells after three days with Sophorae Radix. The reversibility of Sophorae Radix was examined on one day to five days treatment with 100 ${\mu}g/ml$ Sophorae Radix. Result : Sophorae Radix inhibited the growth of MCF-7 cells in a dose-dependent fashion. Also we showed that Sophorae Radix induced apoptosis in MCF-7 cells by MTT assay, caspase 3 assay and sub-G1 analysis. Sophorae Radix combined with DOX markedly inhibited the growth of MCF-7 cells compared to Sophorae Radix or DOX alone. After 3 days treatment of MCF-7 cells with Sophorae Radix, the fraction of cells in sub-G1 phase was much higher than that of the control group. Conclusion : Our findings provide insight into unraveling the effects of Sophorae Radix in human breast adenocarcinoma cells and developing therapeutic agents against breast cancer.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.306-310
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• 2004

Efficacy of antioxidative activity and nitrite scavenging ability of ethanol extract of Phyllostachys bambusoides S. et Z. (P. bambusoides) was investigated. Electron-donating ability of ethanol extract at $RC_{50}$ was $116.75\;{\mu}g/mL$. After addition of 0.92 mg/mL ethanol extract, autooxidation of pyrogallol decreased to 44% by superoxide dismutase-like activity. In antioxidative activity of ethanol extract against linoleic acid during incubation times of 4 and 6 day at $40^{\circ}C$, TBA values decreased by 74.76 and 58.48% with addition of 50 mg/mL, respectively. Nitrite scavenging ability showed the most remarkable effect at pH 1.2, decreasing to 43% by addition of 0.2 mg/mL. These results suggest that ethanol extract of P. bambusoides can be used in bioactive and functional material.