• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해양공학회 2006년 창립20주년기념 정기학술대회 및 국제워크샵
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• pp.105-112
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• 2006

Freak waves in the ocean are recently drawing much attention as a natural disaster to ocean structures and navigating ships as well. Several observation data, among them the Draupner New Year Wave, show the very impressive feature of Freak waves whose wave height is up to three times as high as the significant wave height of surrounding waves, In addition, Freak wave appears as an isolated very high crest in somewhat stationary random waves of same order in their wavelengths. Bearing such characteristics in mind, one notices its extraordinary steepness. This strongly suggests that Freak wave is not long lived but transient nature on the whole. A great number of studies to explain these natures were published from both theoretical and numerical point of view. However it is not sure if they are applicable to actual ocean environment. In this paper, we deal with the results concerning abnormal and/or Freak waves from in-situ ocean wave data and point out several remarks to the problems lain behind the contributions in this context. A physical experiment is described to reinforce the subject discussed from the observation data.

• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.250-258
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• 2012

The distribution of wave heights is assumed to be a Rayleigh distribution, based on the assumption of a narrow band and Gaussian distribution of wave elevation. The present study was started with doubts about the narrow band assumption. We selected the wave spectra widely used to simulate irregular random waves. The wave spectra used in this study included the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum, Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu spectrum, and JONSWAP spectrum. The directionality of the waves was considered. The cosine 2-l type directional spreading function and mixed form of the half-cosine 2-s type with Mitsuyasu type directional spreading are considered here to investigate the effects of a directional spreading function on random waves. The simulated wave height distribution is compared with a Rayleigh distribution.

• 한국수산과학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.41-47
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• 1989

Using computer simulated irregular waves, variations of ocean wave statistics according to sea state are analyzed, and the reasonable conditions that transform the energy spectrum to individual wave statistics are discussed. Ocean wave statistics varying with sea state are found to respond linearly to the spectral peakedness parameter $Q_p$ and spectrum moments $m_n$ (n = 0, 1, 2${\cdots}{\cdots}\;\infty$ ). It is clarified that the 2nd-order spectrum moment is a reasonable parameter which represents the wave statistics including wave periods, and that the spectrum analysis should be carried out under the conditions of minimum data length of 10 times of peak period $T_p$ with time lag of $7T_p$ to satisfy the stable condition of wave statistics.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2010

A series of experiments employing particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique was conducted to produce benchmark wave kinematics data for regular waves having four different wave slopes in 2-D wave tank. Water velocities and accelerations near the free surface of regular waves were computed from image pair obtained by PIV systems. With the measured wave velocity field, the wave accelerations were computed using a centered finite difference scheme. Both local and convective components of the total accelerations are obtained from experimental data. With increasing the wave slope, the horizontal velocity and the vertical accelerations near the wave crest obtained by PIV technique became larger than theoretical results, which are well-known phenomena of the wave nonlinearity. It is noted that the relative magnitude of convective acceleration to the local acceleration became larger with increasing wave slope.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.22-28
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• 2006

The motion and wave drift forces of floating BBDB (backward-bent duct buoy) wave energy absorbers in regular waves are calculated, taking account of the oscillating surface-pressure due to the pressure drop in the air chamber above the oscillating water column, within the scope of the linear wave theory. A series of model tests has been conducted in order to order to verify the motion and time mean wave drift force reponses in regular waves at the ocean engineering basin, MOERI/KORDI. The pneumatic damping through an orifice-type duct for the BBDB wave energy device are deducted from experimental research. Numerical simulation for motion and drift force responses of the BBDB wave energy device, considering pneumatic damping coefficients, has been carried out, and the results are compared with those of model tests.

• 수산해양기술연구
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• 제42권1호
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• pp.38-43
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• 2006

The 3-D modeling of ocean finite element method(OFEM) using $k-{\varepsilon}$ turbulent model and tetrahedron grids has been used to investigate the internal wave generation during the expansion of the deep water from the open sea to the shelf with a simple shape, which can be widely used in the fields of submarine development, ocean environment and meteorology, etc. In this paper, the detailed configuration of internal wave with its length and height and also the distribution of salinity and turbulent kinematic energy, etc. were derived. It is hoped that this OFEM method can be successfully applied to the numerical calculation of internal wave for and the oceanographic problems (tidal flows around underwater hill, plateau, Georges Bank, etc.) and ocean engineering problems(flow past artificial sea reefs) in future.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.504-509
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• 2019

The wave-generation performance of a piston-type wave maker was analyzed using the numerical wave tank technique, and the numerical results were compared with theoretical solutions. A two-dimensional frequency domain analysis was conducted based on the Rankine panel method. Various parameters were used to examine the wave-generation performance, such as the width and gap of the wave board. The effects of the thickness of the wave board and of the gap from the bottom of the tank were evaluated. The difference in the amplitude of the generated wave between the analytical solution and the numerical result was examined, and its causes were addressed due to the gap flow between the bottom of the tank and the wave board. This parametric analysis can be utilized to design an optimum wave make parametric analysis to design an optimum wave maker that can generate waves with amplitudes that can be predicted accurately.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2021

Experimental and numerical investigations were conducted to study the performance of a surface-fixed horizontal porous wave barrier in regular waves. The characteristics of the reflection and transmission coefficients, energy dissipation, and vertical wave force were examined versus different porosities of the barrier. Numerical simulations based on 3D Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equations with standard low-Re k-ε turbulent closure and volume of fluid approach were accomplished and compared with the experimental results conducted in a 2D wave tank. Experimental measurements and numerical simulations were shown to be in satisfactory agreement. The qualitative wave behavior propagating over a horizontal porous barrier such as wave run-up, wave breaking, air entrapment, jet flow, and vortex generation was reproduced by CFD computation. Through the discrete harmonic decomposition of the vertical wave force on a wave barrier, the nonlinear characteristics were revealed quantitatively. It was concluded that the surface-fixed horizontal barrier is more effective in dissipating wave energy in the short wave period region and more energy conversion was observed from the first harmonic to higher harmonics with the increase of porosity. The present numerical approach will provide a predictive tool for an accurate and efficient design of the surface-fixed horizontal porous wave barrier.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• 제35권8호
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• pp.1028-1034
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• 2011

본 논문에서는 파도의 상하운동에너지의 이용효율을 높이기 위해서 부양체와 2 D.O.F.(자유도) 진동발전시스템을 일체로 구성한 파력진동발전시스템을 제안한다. 파도가 갖는 상하운동 주파수 중 속도 에너지가 큰 주요 주파수 ${\omega}_1$, ${\omega}_2$을 선정하고, 2 D.O.F. 파력진동발전시스템의 고유진동수와 선정된 주파수들을 일치시킨다. 그러면 공진효과에 의해 각각의 질량과 권선사이의 상대속도가 파도의 상하운동속도보다 커진다. 또한 2 D.O.F. 진동시스템의 연성효과로 인한 1 D.O.F. 파력진동발전시스템보다 더 많은 전기에너지를 얻을 수 있다. 따라서 본 논문에서 제안한 2 D.O.F. 파력 발전시스템은 파도가 갖는 에너지를 더 많이 이용할 뿐만 아니라 더 많은 전기에너지를 얻을 수 있는 장점을 가짐을 알 수 있었다.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.88-99
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• 2019

동해안 남항진 해변에서 1.6 km 떨어진 수심 30.5 m 해역에서 초음파식 파고 파향계를 이용하여 2013년 2월부터 2018년 11월까지 연속 관측을 실시하여 취득된 파랑자료를 분석하였다. 파별분석법과 스펙트럼법에 의해 파고와 주기를 분석하고 두 방법에 의해 산정되는 파라메터 사이의 관계식을 선형 회귀분석에 의해 도출하였다. 또한 유의파고, 유의파주기, 첨두파향의 월별 및 연별 변동성을 분석하였다. 이에 더하여 유의파고와 유의파주기의 상관관계식을 새롭게 제시하고 유의파고에 대한 유의파주기의 변동성 및 확률분포 특성을 고찰하였다.