• Title/Summary/Keyword: observed wave data

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Characteristics on the Variation of Ocean Wave Statistics in the Chujeon Sea (주전해역의 파랑의 통계적 변동 특성)

  • 손병규;류청로
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.15 no.3
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    • pp.20-27
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    • 2001
  • After using the filtering method, wave parameters are calculated by the spectral analysis and wave by wave analysis. Extreme environments and higher wave characteristics int he Chujeon Sea are analyzed using the observed wave data. Higher wave has been intensely emphasized as an important environmental force parameter in several recent research works. The aims of this study are to summarize the distribution of extreme environment for wind waves, and to find occurrence probability of higher wave in Chujeon Sea. Ocean wave statistics varying with sea state are found to respond linearly to the spectral peakedness parameter Qp, mean run-length and Ursell number. Although the spreading of the field results is large, it may be concluded that the tendency of wave group formation depends on the spectral peakedness parameter Qp. Extreme wave is estimated to apply various model distribution functions by using the monthly maximum significant wave parameters which can be used to the design and analysis of coastal structures.

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Correlation Analysis between Wave Parameters using Wave Data Observed in HeMOSU-1&2 (HeMOSU-1&2의 파랑 관측 자료를 이용한 파랑 변수 간 상관관계 분석)

  • Lee, Uk-Jae;Ko, Dong-Hui;Cho, Hong-Yeon;Oh, Nam-Sun
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.33 no.4
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    • pp.139-147
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    • 2021
  • In this study, waves were defined using the water surface elevation data observed from the HeMOSU-1 and 2 marine meteorological observation towers installed on the west coast of Korea, and correlation analysis was performed between wave parameters. The wave height and wave period were determined using the wave-train analysis method and the wave spectrum analysis method, and the relationship between the wave parameters was calculated and compared with the previous study. In the relation between representative wave heights, most of the correlation coefficients between waves showed a difference of less than 0.1% in error rate compared to the previous study, and the maximum wave height showed a difference of up to 29%. In addition, as a result of the correlation analysis between the wave periods, the peak period was estimated to be abnormally large at rates of 2.5% and 1.3% in HeMOSU-1&2, respectively, due to the effect of the bimodal spectrum that occurs when the spectral energy density is small.

Algorithm of Predicting Swell-like Significant Waves in the East Coast of Korea (동해안 너울성 고파 예측 알고리즘)

  • Ahn, Suk Jin;Lee, Byeong Wook;Kwon, Seok Jae;Lee, Changhoon
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.33 no.6
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    • pp.2329-2341
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    • 2013
  • In this study, we develop an algorithm to predict swell-like significant waves in the east coast of Korea using the directional wave gauge which is installed near Sokcho. Using the numerical wave model SWAN, we estimate wave data in open sea from the wave data observed through the directional wave gauge. Then, using the wave ray method with the open-sea wave data as offshore boundary conditions, we predict the swell-like significant waves at several points in the east coast of Korea. We verify the prediction methods with the SWAN and wave ray methods by comparing numerically predicted data against either target or measured data at the observation site. We can improve the prediction of the swell-like significant waves in the east sea of Korea using both the real-time wave measurement system and the present prediction algorithm.

Hydraulic Model Tests for the Distribution of Wave Height around the Ieodo Underwater Rocks (이어도 주변 파고분포에 대한 수리모형실험)

  • Chun Insik;Shim Jae-Seol
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.17 no.1
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    • pp.55-59
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    • 2005
  • The present data concerns the wave height distribution around the Ieodo underwater rocks and it was obtained from a 3D hydraulic model experiment which was performed in 1999 by Konkuk University and Korea Ocean Research and Development Institute. The experiment was separately undertaken for 4 different wave directions (NNW, SE, S, NNW) under which wave heights were measured at every 1m interval within the preset grid area, 16m×18m. It was observed that the wave breaking occurred on the top of the Ieodo model for all wave directions. This data may be effectively used for improving or verifying the performance of numerical wave propagation models in the area with the local breaking wave zones.

Coastal Wave Hind-Casting Modelling Using ECMWF Wind Dataset (ECMWF 바람자료를 이용한 연안 파랑후측모델링)

  • Kang, Tae-Soon;Park, Jong-Jip;Eum, Ho-Sik
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.21 no.5
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    • pp.599-607
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this study is to reproduce long-term wave fields in coastal waters of Korea based on wave hind-casting modelling and discuss its applications. To validate wind data(NCEP, ECMWF, JMA-MSM), comparison of wind data was done with wave buoy data. JMA-MSM predicted wind data with high accuracy. But due to relatively longer period of ECMWF wind data as compared to that of JMA-MSM, wind data set of ECMWF(2001~2014) was used to perform wave hind-casting modelling. Results from numerical modelling were verified with the observed data of wave buoys installed by Korea Meteorological Administration(KMA) and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency(KHOA) on offshore waters. The results agree well with observations at buoy stations, especially during the event periods such as a typhoon. Consequently, the wave data reproduced by wave hind-casting modelling was used to obtain missing data in wave observation buoys. The obtained missing data indicated underestimation of maximum wave height during the event period at some points of buoys. Reasons for such underestimation may be due to larger time interval and resolution of the input wind data, water depth and grid size etc. The methodology used in present study can be used to analyze coastal erosion data in conjunction with a wave characteristic of the event period in coastal areas. Additionally, the method can be used in the coastal disaster vulnerability assessment to generate wave points of interest.

Marine Meteorological Characteristics in 2006-2007 year near the Korean Peninsular : Wind Waves (2006-2007년 한반도 인근 해양기상 특성 : 파랑)

  • You, Sung Hyup
    • Atmosphere
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    • v.19 no.1
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    • pp.93-106
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    • 2009
  • Analysis has been made on the wind wave characteristics in terms of significant wave height ($H_s$) near the Korean marginal seas in the 2006 - 2007 year using the third generation wave model, WAVEWATCH - III model. In order to evaluate its performance, its results were compared with the observed data using KMA ocean buoy. The two year average RMSE between modeled and observed Hs shows reasonably small value of about 0.37 m. The accuracy of predicted values in the year 2007 is increased mainly due to finer model grid size and better accurate wind field. The model used in this study predicts very well the characteristics ($H_s$) of wind waves near the Korean Peninsular. Simulated monthly wind waves show the evident seasonal variations due to Typhoons in summer season. When Typhoons approach to Korean Peninsular, the accuracy of wind waves predictions is lower than that of annual mean value.

Evaluation of the Harbor Operation Rate Considering Long Period Waves (장주기파를 고려한 항만 가동율의 평가)

  • 김규한
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.16 no.2
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    • pp.21-26
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    • 2002
  • In this study, the characteristics of long period waves are analyzed by field observation at Sokcho harbor on the eastern coast of Korea. firstly. the pressure data obtained from field observation are transformed into water surface elevations and the wave by wave analysis is applied to the observed wave data. also, we select long period waves by setting up the range 30-200sec, and suggest the relationship between ordinary waves and long period waves using the concept of the significant wave height. and, we examine the effects oft he long period waves on the rate of the harbor operation. The observation results demonstrate that the long period waves with heights of 1.2-14.6cm and periods of 35.8-162sec exist at Sokcho harbor. also, we found the rates of harbor operation based on long period waves are 61.8%-99.5% lower than the usual rates of 93.8%-100%.

3D SH-wave Velocity Structure of East Asia using Love-Wave Tomography and Implication on Radial Anisotropy (러브파 토모그래피를 이용한 동아시아의 3차원 SH파 속도구조와 이방성 연구)

  • Min, Kyungmin;Chang, Sung-Joon
    • Geophysics and Geophysical Exploration
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.25-32
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    • 2017
  • We present a 3D SH-wave velocity model of the crust and uppermost mantle and seismic radial anisotropy beneath East Asia. The SH-wave velocity structure model was built using Love-wave group-velocity dispersion data from earthquake data recorded at broadband seismic networks of Korea, Japan, and China. Love-wave group-velocity dispersion curves were obtained by using the multiple filtering technique in the period range of 3 to 150 s for 3,369 event-station pairs. The inverted model using these data sets provides a crust and upper mantle SH-wave velocity structure down to 100 km depth. At 10 ~ 40 km depths SH-wave velocity beneath the East Sea is higher than beneath the Japanese island region. We estimated the Moho beneath the East Sea to be between 10 ~ 20 km depth, while Moho beneath the Korean Peninsula at around 35 km based on the depth where high-velocity anomalies are detected. We estimated the lithosphere-asthenosphere boundary beneath the East Sea to be at around 50 km based on the depth where strong low-velocity anomalies are observed. Widespread low-velocity anomalies are found between 50 ~ 100 km depth in the study region. Positive radial anisotropy ($V_{SV}$ > $V _{SH}$) is observed down to 35 km depth, while negative radial anisotropy ($V_{SV}$ > $V _{SH}$) is observed for deeper depth.

Analysis of Extreme Wave Conditions for Long-Term Wave Observation Data Considering Directionality (방향성을 고려한 장기 파랑관측자료의 극치파랑조건 분석)

  • Kim, Gunwoo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.28 no.5
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    • pp.700-711
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    • 2022
  • In this study, deepwater design waves were estimated for 16 wave directions and various return periods based on statistical analysis of extreme waves observed for more than 20 years at three stations (Chilbal-do, Geomun-do, Donghae). These values were compared with design waves estimated based on the omni-directional wave data. The Weibull distribution was used as the probability distribution function whose parameters were determined by the least square method. The Kolmogorov-Smirnov test was applied for the goodness of fit test. Notably, the directional design waves were smaller than the omni-directional design wave for every wave direction. The maximum 50-year wave heights for directional sectors were 7.46 m (NNE), 12.05 m (S), and 9,59 m (SSW) at Chilbal-do, Geomun-do and Donghae whereas those for uni-directional wave data were 7.91 m, 13.82 m and 10.38 m, respectively. This implied possible under-estimation of the deepwater design waves for 16 wave directions being currently used in the design of offshore and coastal structures.

Analysis of Hydraulic Characteristic in Surf Zone using the SWASH Model during Typhoon NAKRI(1412) in Haeundae Beach (SWASH 모형을 이용한 태풍 나크리(NAKRI)에 의한 해운대 해수욕장의 쇄파대 수리특성 해석)

  • Lee, Jong-Sup;Park, Myeong-Won;Kang, Min-Ho;Kang, Tae-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.21 no.5
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    • pp.591-598
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    • 2015
  • A hydraulic characteristics in the surf zone such as wave breaking points, wave set-down, wave set-up, wave-induced currents and run-up heights are studied using the SWASH model during Typhoon NAKRI(1412) in Haeundae Beach. Incident wave conditions is obtained from one-hourly observed wave data by KHOA and irregular wave by JONSWAP spectrum is given as an open boundary condition in the model. A Wave-induced current patterns by the SWASH model is compared with the observed currents and sediment flux patterns in that areas, the calculated maximum wave run-up heights in the model is compared with the video monitoring data, the empirical formula by Stockdon et al. and Mase. A dominant longshore currents toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident wave direction and the geographical features and some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. The maximum wave run-up height(1.15 m) by the SWASH model shows a similar pattern with the video monitoring data(1.26 m) and the magnitude shows a similar result(1.33m) by Stockdon et al.