• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.95-102
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• 1997

This study is aimed for men's jacket draft not only to other style but also helping for men's jacket fits for trend by presenting the course to get a style we want by adding to the partial drafty changes in existing pattern of men's formal jacket selected two kinds of men's jacket style fit for 1997 S/S trend. In this 1997 S/S trend, the trend I of the characteristic formal jacket is a style slim expressed over the basic formal wear, and trend II of the characteristic casual jacket appears to women's wear that roundly expressed by collar line of V-zone returened back by the shoulder line of jacket made of a big diagonal wrinkled line of X-style in front centered around a button of center front line. In this study, it called that the existing traditional formal jacket of men is a A style of jacket and jacket style I, II is a jacket B, C style. Jacket A, B, C style, a distingtion in draft that added to make form an oblique wrinkled line of the X-shaped-making artificially to the front button line sharply distinguished by eyes will be come out by control of front neck width over the back neck width. According to this, we shall be found that place of front neck point is a cardinal point in draft that will be added any changes in a style of jacket.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.145-155
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• 2002

In order to investigate how upper limb motion gives influence on clothing, this study measured tests by following standards: Front Vertical motion, Side-Vertical motion, and Horizontal motion. For this study, the procedures in the order of alphabet are applied. A. Eeach of testee's pattern was copied by the motion with a method of tight fitting technique. B. Analyzing each of the size-change on measuring item. C. Studying the moving aspects at each datum points. The results shows that the biggest change can be found in the following items. 1) In vertical motion of F4 (the length to shoulder point from A-point) 2) In horizontal motion of F5 (the length to front-width point from A-point), the check-result gained by checking the notice between motions shows that the most noticeable items are F4 (the length to shoulder point from A-point), F5 (the length to front-width point from A-point), F6 (the length to armpit point from A-point), B7 (the length to side-waist point from B-point). In result of the study of datum point's movement by motion, the items which were measured with the longest on straight-distance in vertical motion are the front and rear-shoulder, and the rear-shoulder, front-armpit in horizontal motion each. In the movement of each datum points by length, the check-result gained by checking the notice between motions shows that the most remarkable item is the front-shoulder.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.275-285
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• 2006

With these excavated clothes discussed above, the clothing style before and after the Chosun-Japan War from 1592 to 1597 can be summarized as follows. 1) Shroud was a clothes newly made for funeral or usually worn by the deceased. Shroud was mostly a unlined clothes whose adjustment was made in such way its left part was on top of its right one. Yeomeui, a clothes used to wrap up the body of the deceased or fill between the body and the coffin, was usually lined or quilted. Suryeeui was a suit sent by close relatives of the deceased or granted by the court. Mostly padded with cotton or quilted, suryeeui was used only for yeomeui. 2) The term of ching was used to count units of po and suits of trousers and jeogori during dressing the deceased for burial. If trousers and jeogori were not joined into a suit, they were not counted as ching. 3) Aekjueumpo, bangryeongsangeui, three-forked trousers and haengjeon for women were all clothes worn around the war. All these clothes were not worn after the war. 4) Several types of po which were discovered in Daejeon included danryeong, simeui, nansam, jikryeong, cheolik, aekjuempo, changeui and jungchimak for men and jangeui for women. Often, jikryeong, cheolrik, aekjueumpo and bangryeongsangeui were used before the war and changeui and jungchimak since then. 5) The git of jeogori had the style of mokpan git before the war, which was changed into that of dangko git through making the rectangular ege of mokpan git rounded in the 17th century. And jeogori became entirely small sized and the baerae line of sleeve became oblique. 6) In funeral rites of Daejon, simeui and nansam both of which were symbols of Confucian scholars, instead of official uniforms, were used as funeral garments. This suggests that funeral rites of Daejeon considerably reflected academic traditions of the Giho school meaning groups of scholars representing the region.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.113-127
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• 2004

This study examined the trend of pattern which appeared throughout men's clothing fashion magazine from 1999 to 2002 and the influence which the demographic characteristic have on the sensibility dimension of pattern and the preference degree of kinds of pattern. The results of study were as follows. 1) The pattern which was used most frequently on recent men's clothing was a length stripe, and the representation technique which was used most frequently on recent men's clothing was the technique of a geometric expression. 2) The pattern which men and women preferred most out of ten kinds of patterns-length stripe, width stripe, oblique stripe, check, square, waterdrop, paisley, flower of style shape, flower of realistic shape, flower of shape-was a length stripe. 3) The sensibility dimension of pattern image was composed of fascination, dignity, daring, gentleness, and reality. 4) Because sensitivity dimension and kinds of pattern were significant according to the distinction of sex, vocation, academic career, income, this study can conclude the demographic characteristic have an influence on sensitivity dimension and kinds of pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.67-81
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• 2009

This study aims to characterize the effect of different combinations of chromatic-achromatic colors and 1:2:3 area-ratio variation of stripe necktie, and gender on the image of male wearer. The experimental materials developed for this study are a set of stimuli and response scales. The stimuli consist of 84 color pictures manipulated with every combination of 12 different colors and 7 different area-ratio. The 7-point scale designed for visual evaluation of image formation included 26 bipolar adjectives. The subjects were 2016 undergraduate students in Gyeongnam, Seoul, Busan, and Daegu areas. The results of this study were as follows. The analyses of images of male wearer in terms of combinations of chromatic-achromatic colors and I :2:3 area-ratio variation of oblique stripe necktie reveal that the concerned factors are of five characteristic dimensions of youth-activity, ability, attractiveness, appeal, and warmness. In addition, it has been found that individual images of male wearer are affected by observer's gender as well as combinations of chromatic-achromatic colors and 1:2:3 area-ratio variation of stripe neckties and that those images vary with every combination of each factor. The study results are highly expected to be used as useful sources in developing necktie designs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2016

Despite both domestic and overseas markets are depressed due to the global financial crisis - the apparel industry is no exception, the market for the outdoor wears including the hiking ones has been recording a high growth rate, making the outdoor wear a high growth industry. The purpose of this study was to provide some basic data useful to our outdoor businesses to help them respond to consumers' needs in the rapidly growing outdoor markets. For silhouettes, the point was given primarily to the oblique cutting to have it follow the human body curves and thereby, look natural and slim. Another point was given to the color schemes along the cutting lines, so that an effect of optical illusion could be created to make the wears look slim making use of lines and colors. On the other hand, in consideration of the rapidly changing weather conditions during hiking, the details were designed practically by setting appropriate hip lengths, using attachable/detachable hoods as well as applying the Velcro & rubber band-type set-in sleeves for the tail edges. As discussed above, the researcher analyzed the design elements for the outdoor wears and developed some sensuous designs meeting consumers' needs to help our outdoor wear businesses to expand their target base, while awakening them of the importance of the outdoor fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.107-125
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• 2020

Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15^th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.45-52
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• 2007

This study is based on the observation of women's Jangui in 17th centuries. As we observed, Jangui in seventeenth century was shown the same style. They were not headdress but coat. The characteristics of shape are Mokpankit, double-seop, straight sleeve, triangle moo, sam-su(which is attached to the end of sleeves) and a little coat string etc. There is no specific mode difference with the change of times. However, the straight sleeve is shown straight line in the early Chosun dynasty. Jangui in seventeen century are all oblique line sleeve except Jangui of Jin-ju Ha's family. Jangui put on coat do not seem clear-cut difference with the change of times. From Jangui of Yang-chun Hu's family in 14th centuries till An-dong Kim's family, the special features of Jangui are the same style. In addition, The double-seop in 17th centuries was not completely symmetry. However, after 19th centuries, Jangui for headdress was shown perfectly symmetry.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.325-338
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• 2008

This study aims to characterize the effect of different combinations of chromatic-achromatic colors and area-ratio of stripe necktie, and gender on the image of male wearer. The experimental materials developed for this study are a set of stimuli and response scales. The stimuli consist of 84 color pictures manipulated with every combination of 12 different colors and 7 different area-ratio. The 7-point scale designed for visual evaluation of image formation included 26 bipolar adjectives. The subjects were 2016 undergraduate students in Gyeongnam, Seoul, Busan, and Daegu areas. The results of this study were as follows.; The analyses of images of male wearer in terms of combinations of chromatic-achromatic colors and area-ratio of oblique stripe necktie reveal that the concerned factors are of five characteristic dimensions of youth-activity, ability, attractiveness, appeal, and warmness. In addition, it has been found that individual images of male wearer are affected by observer's gender as well as combinations of chromatic-achromatic colors and area-ratio of stripe neckties and that those images vary with every combination of each factor. The study results are highly expected to be used as useful sources in developing necktie designs.