• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1992.08a
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• pp.21-21
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• 1992

The paper is devoted to one of the branches tsunami. wave hydrodynamics. The theory of propagation, transformation and runup of tsunami waves taking into account the nonlinearity and the dispersion is exposed. The available data on real tsunamis are reviewed.(omitted)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.103-112
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• 2000

Early efforts to model wave transformation from offshore to inshore were based on the ray theory which accounts for wave refraction due to changes in bathymetry and the diffraction effects were ignored. Prediction of nearshore waves with the combined effects of refraction and diffraction as well as reflection has taken a new dimension with the use of the mild-slope equation and the Boussinesq equation. (omitted)

• Water for future
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.71-79
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• 1993

Nonlinear characteristics of air pressure variation and wave transformation of a fixed air-chamber structure are discussed theoretically and experimentally. Two analytical methods(method I and II) based on the perturbation method and Green's formula are employed in order to evaluate nonlinearities by the submerged and semi-submerged air-chamber structure. Moreover, an air compression model is newly developed to estimate the dynamic air pressure in the air-chamber inside the structure, assuming the Boyle-Charles's law with adiabatic process in the air pressure variation. Theoretical values of the method I considering evanescent mode waves at an fictious boundary, are in good agreement with those of method II employing the fictious boundary which is not affected by evanescent mode waves. Both theoretical values are shown to agree well with experimental values.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• v.28 no.1_2
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• pp.143-152
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• 2010

Based on the Exp-function method and a suitable transformation, new generalized solitonary solutions including free parameters of the MDI and Sawada-Kotera equations with variable coefficients are obtained, form which solitary wave solutions and periodic solutions including some known solutions reported in open literature are derived as special cases. The free parameters in the obtained generalized solitonary solutions might imply some meaningful results in the physical models. It is shown that the Exp-function method provides a very effective and important new method for nonlinear evolution equations with variable coefficients.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 1991

Based on Boussinesq equation, the parabolic approximation equation is used to analyse the propagation of shallow water waves with currents over slowly varying depth. Rip currents (jet-like) occur mainly in shallow waters where the Ursell parameter significatly exceeds the range of application of Stokes wave theory. We employ the nonlinear parabolic approximation equation which is valid for waves of large Ursell parameters and small scale currents. Two types of currents are considered; relatively strong and relatively weak currents. The wave propagating over rip currents on a sloping bottom experiences a shoaling due to the variations of depth and current velocity as well as refraction and diffraction due to the vorticity of currents. Numerical analyses for a nonlinear theory are valid before the breaking point.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.30-38
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• 2009

In recent years, there's been strong demand for coastal structures that have a permeability that serves water affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine the wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates over the coastal structures with a steep slope. A numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable underlayer and laboratory measurements was carried out in terms of the free surface elevations and fluid particle velocities for the cases of regular and irregular waves over 1:5 impermeable and permeable slopes. The numerical results were used to evaluate the application and limitations of the PBREAK numerical model. The numerical model could predict the cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably, but showed less accurate results in the breaking zone that the mass and momentum influx is exchanged the most. Except near the wave crest, the computed depth averaged velocities could represent the measured profile below the trough level fairly well.

• Water for future
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.73-83
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• 1994

The unproper development of the nearshore zone can enhance the diffusion of pollutant in the nearshore zone resulting in unbalanced sediment budget of beach which causes alteration of beach topography. Therefore, it is required to predict the effects of the envirnmental change quantitatively. In this paper, the depth-averaged and time-averaged energy balance equation is selected to acount for the wave transformation such as refraction, shoaling effect, the surf zone energy disipation, wave breaking index and bore, due to wave breaking in the shore region.(Numerical solutions are obtained by a finite difference method, ADI and Upwind. For the calculation of the wave-induced current, the unsteady nonlinear depth-averaged and time-averaged governing equation is derived based on the continuity and momentum equation for imcompressible fluid.) Numerical solutions are obtained by finite difference method considering influences of factors such as lateral mixing coefficient, bed shear stress, wave direction angle, wave steepness, wave period and bottom slope. The model is applied to the computation of wave transformation, wave-induced current and variation of mean water leel on a uniformly sloping beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.161-167
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• 1992

We consider the preparation of long finite amplitude nondispersive waves over a step bottom between two regions of finite different depths. Two dimensional motion is assumed. with the wave crests parallel to the step, and irrotational flow in the inviscid fluid is considered. To describe the transformation of finite amplitude waves we use the finite-amplitude shallow-water equations, the conditions of mass flow conservation and pressure continuity at the cut above the step in Riemann's variables. The equations define four families of curves-characteristics on which the values of the Riemann's invariants remain constant and a system of two nonlinear equations that relates the amplitudes of incident reflected and transmitted waves. The system obtained is difficult to analyze in common form. Thus we consider some special cases having practical usage for tsunami waves. The results obtained are compared with the long wave theory and significant nonlinear effects are found even for quite small amplitude waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.276-284
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• 2011

The rip current occurred at Haeundae beach was numerically investigated under directional random wave environment. The numerical simulation was performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE which is capable of simulating nearshore circulation since it includes the effect of wave-induced momentum flux and horizontal turbulent mixing. The results of numerical simulation show the time-dependent evolution of the wave-induced nearshore circulation system (including rip current) that are caused by nonlinear transformation of directional irregular waves due to unique topography of Haeundae. From the results, it was found that rip current is well generated and developed where relatively lower wave height and relatively deeper water depth along the longshore direction, and sudden and strong events of rip current were observed.

• The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.660-669
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• 2003

This paper describes a theory to calculate sound source field from the spatial transform of sound field and the measured cross-power spectrum of sound pressure over a hologram plane close to a sound source, Calculating method is proposed to solve sound pressures from cross-power spectrums over a hologram plane, For this, Taylor series for the nonlinear equations is expanded, and it is calculated using Newton-Raphon method, Also, a wave number filter is used to reduce errors that is occurred on the backward propagation, and is performed numerical simulation of the circular piston sound source with infinite baffle in water to verify the proposed theory.