• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.71-79
• /
• 2016

This study aims to suggest the proper neck-width of slim-fit jackets according to numbers of jacket buttons from an one-button jacket to a four button jacket for men in their 30's. The researchers carried out both an appearance evaluation and a movement functionality evaluation. When analyzing the appearance evaluation, there were meaningful differences. The one-button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +2.4cm. The two-button jacket and the three button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +1.4cm. The four-button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +0.4cm. The result of movement functionality evaluation was not related to the appearance evaluation, and showed no meaningful difference. The one-button jacket and two button jacket showed high scores on the back-neck width of +2.4cm. The three button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +1.4cm. The four-button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +0.4cm. In analyzing both results, the study suggests that the proper front neck-width and that of the back-neck width of +2.4cm be for the one-button jacket, the back-neck width of +1.4cm be for the two-button jacket and the three-button jacket, while the back-neck width of +0.4cm be for the four-button jacket.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
• /
• v.74 no.1
• /
• pp.19-32
• /
• 2020

Metallic energy-dissipation dampers are widely used in structures. They are comprised of an added damping and stiffness (ADAS) device with many parallel, diamond-shaped hole plates, the neck width of which is an important parameter. However, no studies have analyzed the neck width's influence on the ADAS device's performance. This study aims to better understand that influence by conducting a pseudo-static test on ADAS, with three different neck widths, and performing finite element analysis (FEA) models. Based on the FEA results and mechanical theory, a design neck width range was proposed. The results showed that when the neck width was within the specified range, the diamond-shaped hole plate achieved an ideal yield state with minimal stress concentration, where the ADAS had an optimal energy dissipation performance and the brittle shear fracture on the neck was avoided. The theoretical values of the ADAS yield loads were in good agreement with the test values. While the theoretical value of the elastic stiffness was lower than the test value, the discrepancy could be reduced with the proposed modified coefficient.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.8 no.5
• /
• pp.668-680
• /
• 2000

The study presents the general types and individual differences of the shape of the adult women's neck and shoulder in our country. It is based on the average value, the standard deviation, the maximum value, the standard deviation, the maximum value, the minimum value and c.v. measured from the women at the age of 19 through 64. The results of this study are as follows ; 1. The factors by factor analysis are five. The first is the size factors of the neck and shoulder. The second is shape factor of neck. The third is plane view and length factor of the neck. The fourth is the side view factor of the neck and shoulder. The fifth is the shape factor of shoulder. Therefore the shape of the neck and shoulder should be examined in the shape factors as well as in the size factors as well as in the size factors for the designing body-suitable clothes. 2. The factors of the concrete objects are the solid view of neck and shoulder, the cross-sectional view of neck line, side view of neck and shoulder and length of neck. The explainable measuring items for the factors are the difference of the length between lower neck round line and the 4㎝ above neck round line, the length of neck, the angle of inclination between fore neck and back neck, the angle of inclination of the side shoulder, the difference of the height between fore neck point and back neck point, the width of shoulder, the width of chest and the width of back. 3. The concrete objects of the neck and shoulder have five types ; Type Ⅰ is average type, Type Ⅱ is thick short neck and the drooping shoulder type, Type Ⅲ I is slender long neck and lean-back shoulder type, Type Ⅳ is thick and rising shoulder type and Type Ⅴ is slender and drooping shoulder type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.24 no.7
• /
• pp.1004-1014
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study was to develop a well-fitting bodice basic pattern for high school irk. Two bodice patterns were first made based on the most recent existing drafting methods and sensory evaluation was done on the patterns by the present researchers Two high school girls possessing standard physical condition tried and evaluated the functionality of the garments made by the two bodice patterns. Based on the results of the evaluation, a new bodice basic pattern was developed. The new bodice basic pattern was drafted by long measurement method. The dimensions of new bodice basic pattern were as follows. Bust circumference=B/2+4cm, Arms hole depth=C.B/2+1.5cm, Back width=B/6+4cm, Front width=B/6+3cm, Back neck width=B/12+0.5cm, Back neck depth=Back neck width/3cm, Front neck width=B/12cm, Front neck depth=B/12+0.5cm. The sensory and functional evaluations were also conducted for the new bodice basic pattern and the two patterns drafted by the existing methods. The new bodice basic pattern showed better fit both visually and functionally than the existing patterns. SPSS package including means, standard deviation and one-sample T-test were used for data analysis.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.1
• /
• pp.117-125
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of body compensation image on variations in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket. Nine samples were examined: 3 variations of the shoulder height and 3 variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. The results were as follows; as a result of analyzing the body compensation image according to changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, five factors were selected; the shoulder compensation factor, the bust compensation factor, the waist compensation factor, the arm compensation factor and the neck compensation factor. Among these factors, the shoulder compensation factor is the most important factor. Examining the major effect of the body compensation image based on changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, it had an independent influence on factors about waist, neck, shoulder and arm compensation except a factor about bust compensation, had an influence on interacting effect of factors about shoulder, bust, waist, arm compensation, and it had no influence on interacting effect of a factor about neck compensation. This shows that the shoulder height has larger effect on neck compensation image than the shoulder width in power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.21-35
• /
• 1970

1. For the purpose of making the basic pattern construction 100 girls attending the Seoul National University College of Home Economics were measured in finding of body size and coefficient of correlation which would be used as one basis of this study. 2. Coefficient of correlation of each body part based on the breast width was shown as follows; Correlation coefficients of bust to waist and hip were high and those of bust to shoulder width, neck height, back width, and breast width were low. None of that was found between bust and back length. It was not recognized so scientific to adjust the basic pattern construction with figures proportioned by those of neck, shoulder width, breast width, and back width. 3. The method of basic pattern construction obtained by this research has been demonstrated in direct wearing since 1967. It is believed that the result will contribute a great benefit in teaching clothing as well as in mass production industry of ready-made garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.1
• /
• pp.48-59
• /
• 2003

The purposes of this research lie in developing dress shirts pattern targeting adult males between 25-34 years of age and presenting the rules of grading according to the real circumstances of dress shirts industry. The findings of this research are as follows: 1. The surveyed companies kept different size systems ranged from 5 to 18. They kept different size systems each other, and the pattern making was conducted by modification of the collar size, chest size, etc of the pattern developed through each company's know-how. All the surveyed companies were using point method of grading. 2. The method of the research pattern was to adopt N/6+1(cm) for the width of the back of the neck. N/6 for the front neck, N/6+2 for the depth of the front neck, B/6+7 for the shoulder width, B/6+5.5 for the breast width, B/4+5 for the whole width (back), B/4+4 for the whole width (front), B/4+3.5 for the depth, AH/2+0.5 for the back arm hole, AH2+1 for the front arm hole. 3. The grading rule was made after classifying the sizes into 14 centered on the standard size 40. Through the wearing test of research grading rule, 1 found the suitability of grading size 36 and 43 satisfiable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.39 no.6
• /
• pp.826-837
• /
• 2015

This study analyzes the shapes of the adjustment of a Napoleon Collar which combines a stand collar with an upper collar. It established experimental conditions for fixing the conditions of Napoleon Collar components (lapel width, stand collar size and upper collar size) as well as varied the shape of the neckline, the length of the curve of a stand collar and the size of the drawing space at the center back. It produced 22 test clothes of muslin, which were dressed on dress form No. 8. The results indicate that: 1. Neckline shape determines the amount of stand and fall. Less curved neckline stands higher against the neck and a more curved neckline is laid lower onto the body. 2. A shorter curve length of a stand collar allows a longer roll line to fall farther away from the neck with more space between the neck and collar. However, the longer the depth of curve of a stand collar creates a shorter roll line that stands high against neck and closer to neck without any space between the neck and collar with a collar line matching the neck of the dress form. 3. The smaller the drawing space at the center back creates a shorter the style line of the upper collar. However, a narrower back width of the collar creates a bigger drawing space at the center back with a longer the style line and a more naturally placed back width of the collar. 4. A Napoleon Collar creates a longer depth of curve for a stand collar and a smaller drawing space at the center back that is tightly and stably stuck to the neck.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.15 no.3
• /
• pp.22-31
• /
• 2011

In this study, to develop a bodice pattern for women aged 18~24 years, statistical analysis was conducted using the body measurements from 2004 Size Korea and wearing test was conducted. As a result, ease of the bust level to set a horizontal line was decided to be 4cm, that of front interscye line 0cm, and that of back interscye line 0.7~1cm. And the line which divides the horizontal baseline into halves set as the side line. The conversion formula for decision of the scye depth line in the pattern is B/6 + 3.3(cm) + ease (2.5cm), and if bust circumference is 91 or more, it should be 21cm, and if bust circumference is 76 or less, it should be 18.5cm. The back neck line width is 7cm, front neck line width 6.5cm(back neck line width -0.5cm), and front neck depth 8cm(back neck line width +1cm). The shoulder slope was set as a slope of the hypotenuse of a right-angled triangle, which went out 15cm out of the shoulder point and went down 6cm, with tan$21.7^{\circ}$. To develop a final research pattern, wearing test was performed on the primary research pattern for 21 women aged 18~24 years. As a result, the research pattern was evaluated to be significantly higher.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.290-299
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to testify the pattern making method to develop the men's basic bodice pattern using 3-dimensional body scan data. The experimental patterns were made by adding wearing ease on flattened body scan data and tracing the outlines of it. The experimental bodice pattern were composed of front, back, and side panels. To compare the difference between the experimental pattern and traditional pattern, two pattern making methods were compared. Two sets of basic bodice patterns were made for each of the 10 male subjects: a set of pattern was made by experimental method and the other set was made by Bunka pattern making method. The experimental and traditional patterns were measured at 13 dimensions. The results show that there was a difference between the experimental patterns and traditional patterns at the front length, back length, front width, front neck width, back neck width, and back neck depth. The fit was also compared for both patterns. The results of the fit test show that the experimental patterns were superior to the traditional patterns at the fit of neck, shoulder, and armhole. The experimental pattern making method was expected to be useful for mass customization.