• 한국항해항만학회지
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.55-62
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• 2017

A nearshore current or a wave-induced current is an important phenomenon in a nearshore zone, which is composed of longshore, cross-shore, and rip currents. The nearshore current is closely related to the occurrence of coastal accidents by beachgoers. A considerable number of coastal accidents by beachgoers involving the rip current have been reported at Jungmun Beach. However, in studies and observations of the nearshore current of Jungmun Beach, understanding of the rip current pattern remains unclear. In this study, a scientific approach is taken to understand the nearshore current and the rip current patterns at Jungmun Beach by numerical computation for year of 2015. From results of numerical computation, the occurrence and spatial characteristics of the rip current, and the similarities between the rip current and incident wave conditions are analyzed. The primary results of this study reveal that the rip currents are frequently generated at Jungmun Beach, especially in the western parts of the beach, and that the rip currents often occur with a wave breaking height of around 0.5 ~ 0.7 m, a wave period of around 6 ~ 8 seconds, and a breaking angle of around 0 ~ 15 degrees.

• 한국신재생에너지학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국신재생에너지학회 2011년도 춘계학술대회 초록집
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• pp.164.1-164.1
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• 2011

Previously, many researchers assessed nearshore wave energy in two ways. The first is a simulation with respect to the offshore wave time series to validate the wave buoy data and the wave model results, and the other is to simulate the representative waves of typical seasonal wave conditions. The former requires enormous computational time and effort. The latter yields inspection on the patterns for the spatial and temporal distribution of nearshore wave energy but tends to underestimates the amount of wave energy in the nearshore region owing to the correlation between the significant wave height and wave period. $\ddot{O}$zger et al. (2004) derived the stochastic wave energy formulation by introducing a correction factor explicitly in terms of the covariance of the wave energy and significant wave height. In this study, a correction factor was applied for the assessment of nearshore wave energy obtained by numerical simulation of wave transformation with respect to representative waves.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.68-74
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• 2010

The development of a numerical model using the fractional area/volume obstacle representation (FAVOR) method for predicting a nearshore current field bounded by complicated geometric shapes, and a three-dimensional (3D) beach evolution was described in this article. The 3D model was first tested against three cases to simulate the nearshore current fields around coastal structures, a river mouth, and a large scale cusp bathymetry. Then, the morphodynamic model tests, which are adopting the nearshore current model, were applied for the computations of beach evolution around a detached breakwater and two groins. It was confirmed that the presented model associated with the FAVOR method was useful to predict the nearshore current field in the vicinity of the complicated geometric shapes. Finally, the model was applied to a tombolo formation in a field site of Kunnui fishery port, which is located in Hokkaido, Japan.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.61-71
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• 1996

해안선의 횡방향 표사이동에 대하여 장시간 관측된 자료를 이용하여 연안사주와 관련된 제반 특성들을 해석하였다. 전체적으로, 발생된 내부 연안사주는 시간이 지남에 따라 외해쪽으로 이동하다가 임의의 위치에서 외부 연안사주를 형성하게 된다. 이와 같이 외부 연안사주가 형성된 후, 내부 연안사주는 반대로 시간에 따라 해안선 쪽으로 진행하면서 동시에 많은 양의 표사가 해안선과 외부 연안사주방향으로 이동 소멸되어 외부 연안사주가 다시 내부 연안사주로 변화되는 과정을 거친다. 또한 외부 연안사주의 존재여부에 따라 내부 연안사주의 계절적인 변화특성이 매우 다르게 나타났다.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.350-362
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• 2017

오일러형 해빈류 모형은 계산된 질량흐름에 파랑질량흐름이 포함되어 있지 않기 때문에 수치모의된 계산결과를 정점 관측결과와 직접 비교할 수 있다. 또한 포물선형 연직분포를 가진 연안류를 재현할 수 있음으로 인해 라그랑지형 해빈류 모형보다 장점이 있다. 그러나 오일러형 해빈류 모형에서 파랑에 의한 응력인 파랑응력이 해빈류 모형에 따라 형태가 달라, 서로 다른 계산 결과가 나타나게 된다. Newberger and Allen(2007)의 파랑응력은 연직방향으로 수심의 함수가 아닌 상수인 반면에 Chun(2012)의 파랑응력은 수심의 함수로 표현된다. 이러한 차이는 해빈류 계산 결과에 직접적인 영향을 미치고 있어 본 논문에서는 이들 파랑응력의 차이를 해석적으로 비교하였다. 각 파랑응력에 대한 해빈류 모형을 Hamilton et al.(2001)의 LSTF(Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility) 수리모형 실험에 적용하여 차이를 비교함으로써 파랑응력항의 차이에 따른 해빈류 계산 결과의 특성을 검토하였다.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.54-64
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• 1991

현지해안의 표사이동량을 정확히 예측하기 위해서는, 표사이동의 주외력요소(agitation force)인 다방향불규칙 파랑의 천수변형 특성 및 그들에 의해서 발생하는 표사수송 흐름으로서의 해빈류에 대해서 충분히 파악해 둘 필요가 있다. 그러나, 현재 제안되어져 있는 연안류 및 이안류를 포함하는 해빈류 model은 대부분 규칙파 이론에 근거를 두고 파랑특성을 표현하고 있기 때문에 파랑의 불규칙성 및 방향분산성을 고려한 해빈류에 대한 연구는 극히 제한되어져 있다. 본 연구는 다방향불규칙 파랑에 의한 연안유속의 산정에 관한 기초적 연구로서, 주로 파별해석법에 의한 수치계산법을 제안함과 동시에 그들의 수치해석결과를 평면수리실험과 비교함으로써 그 타당성을 검토하였다.

• 한국환경과학회지
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.589-594
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• 1997

A total of 24 surface sediment samples collected from coastal region and fronting of sea cliff on Cape Cod In southeastern Massachusetts, were analyzed to Investigate the sediment transport mechanism. According to the result of grainsize analysis, the overall trend of g.k size decreases from the north(Wood End Beach) to the south(Nauset Light Beachy. The coarser materials tend to be deposited at the foreshore than at the backshore. Especially gavel content(%) Is very high in northern beaches. The lavel fraction tended to concentrate at the toe of the beach. In addition to gravel. the beach and nearshore bar also tended to be deposite of very coarse sand and the Inner fraction accumulate in the offshore bar, Grainsize analyses of sediment Indicates that the coarsest sands Including gravel accumulate In the beach and nearshore bar, the finer fraction winnowed out by wave action to be deposited In the offshore bar. The beach and nearshore bar sands and gavel are subsequently transported laterally by the wave-driven longshore drift, and finally they come to rest in the distal end of Provincetown Hook. The faller offshore sands are trnasported laterally to the south by net southward-directed longshore current.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.14-21
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• 2013

This study examined the field application of a 3-D numerical model (LES-WASS-3D) to the estimation of the nearshore current at Songdo beach, Busan. The wave and tide conditions observed at Songdo beach during Typhoon Ewiniar (July 10, 2006) were used in a numerical simulation. The numerical wave heights were in good agreement with the field data. The spatial distributions of the wave heights, mean water levels, and mean flows obtained from the numerical simulation are discussed in relation to the bottom topographical change near Songdo beach before and after Typhoon Ewiniar. The results revealed that LES-WASS-3D is a powerful tool for estimating the nearshore current in the field.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.96-106
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• 2000

최근에까지 대형구조물이 해양공간이용의 목적으로 외해공항 및 해양터미날로 건설되어 왔다 그러나 때로는 이와같은 큰 규모의 구조물은 파량에 대해 현저한 벽으로 작용하게 되고 해안에 심각한 침식현상을 야기하게 된다 본 연구는 해안선으로부터 각기 다른 거리에 외해구조물을 건설할 때에 해저지형변화를 다룬 것으로 일련의 3차원 이동상실험으로 상세히 조사하였다 또한 해빈류와 외해구조물 배후의 국소침식과의 관계를 분명하게 하기 위하여 수리모델실험과 같은 규격으로 Boussinesq방정식 모델로 해빈류를 계산하고 비교하였다.