• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.55-62
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• 2017

A nearshore current or a wave-induced current is an important phenomenon in a nearshore zone, which is composed of longshore, cross-shore, and rip currents. The nearshore current is closely related to the occurrence of coastal accidents by beachgoers. A considerable number of coastal accidents by beachgoers involving the rip current have been reported at Jungmun Beach. However, in studies and observations of the nearshore current of Jungmun Beach, understanding of the rip current pattern remains unclear. In this study, a scientific approach is taken to understand the nearshore current and the rip current patterns at Jungmun Beach by numerical computation for year of 2015. From results of numerical computation, the occurrence and spatial characteristics of the rip current, and the similarities between the rip current and incident wave conditions are analyzed. The primary results of this study reveal that the rip currents are frequently generated at Jungmun Beach, especially in the western parts of the beach, and that the rip currents often occur with a wave breaking height of around 0.5 ~ 0.7 m, a wave period of around 6 ~ 8 seconds, and a breaking angle of around 0 ~ 15 degrees.

• 한국신재생에너지학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2011.05a
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• pp.164.1-164.1
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• 2011

Previously, many researchers assessed nearshore wave energy in two ways. The first is a simulation with respect to the offshore wave time series to validate the wave buoy data and the wave model results, and the other is to simulate the representative waves of typical seasonal wave conditions. The former requires enormous computational time and effort. The latter yields inspection on the patterns for the spatial and temporal distribution of nearshore wave energy but tends to underestimates the amount of wave energy in the nearshore region owing to the correlation between the significant wave height and wave period. $\ddot{O}$zger et al. (2004) derived the stochastic wave energy formulation by introducing a correction factor explicitly in terms of the covariance of the wave energy and significant wave height. In this study, a correction factor was applied for the assessment of nearshore wave energy obtained by numerical simulation of wave transformation with respect to representative waves.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.68-74
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• 2010

The development of a numerical model using the fractional area/volume obstacle representation (FAVOR) method for predicting a nearshore current field bounded by complicated geometric shapes, and a three-dimensional (3D) beach evolution was described in this article. The 3D model was first tested against three cases to simulate the nearshore current fields around coastal structures, a river mouth, and a large scale cusp bathymetry. Then, the morphodynamic model tests, which are adopting the nearshore current model, were applied for the computations of beach evolution around a detached breakwater and two groins. It was confirmed that the presented model associated with the FAVOR method was useful to predict the nearshore current field in the vicinity of the complicated geometric shapes. Finally, the model was applied to a tombolo formation in a field site of Kunnui fishery port, which is located in Hokkaido, Japan.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.61-71
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• 1996

The objective of this paper is to analyze the characteristics of the nearshore bars using the long-term measured data of cross-shore sediment transport for Duck beach, North Calolina, USA. The effect of outer bars are directly included in the analysis to understand the characteristics of the sequential nearshore bars. Many parameters related to the nearshore bars are presented by the simple relationship. It is found that the nearshore inner bars generally move offshore as time goes. After the outer bars are formed at some position, however, the inner bars start to move landward with time and outer bars become inner bar again. Also it is shown that the seasonal characteristics of inner bars are distinctly different according as the outer bar exists or not.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.350-362
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• 2017

The Eulerian nearshore current model is more advantageous than the Lagrangian model in the way that numerical results from the Eulerian model can be directly compared with the measurements by the stationary equipment. It is because the wave mass flux is not included in the computed mass flux of Euleran nearshore current model. In addition, the Eulerian model can simulate the longshore currents with depth varying parabolic profile. However, the numerical models proposed by different researcher have different forms of the wave stress terms. For example, wave stresses in Newberger and Allen's (2007) model is constant over the depth, while those of Chun (2012) are vertically distributed. In the present study, these wave stress terms were compared against Hamilton et al.'s (2001) laboratory experiments to see the effects of different wave stress terms performed on the computation of nearshore currents.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.54-64
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• 1991

To accurately estimate the rate of sediment transport in shallow water bodies, it is necessary to investigate the irregular waves transformation characteristics and nearshore currents produced by random sea waves. Most of studies on numerical models for nearshore currents are based on the theory of monocromatic waves and thus, very few nearshore models take into account the effect of irregularities in the hight, period and directional spreading of incident waves. The numerical simulation model for nearshore currents used in this paper considers the effect of irregularities of incident waves, based on Individual Wave Analysis. The computational results are compared and shown in a reasionable agreement with the experimental data.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.589-594
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• 1997

A total of 24 surface sediment samples collected from coastal region and fronting of sea cliff on Cape Cod In southeastern Massachusetts, were analyzed to Investigate the sediment transport mechanism. According to the result of grainsize analysis, the overall trend of g.k size decreases from the north(Wood End Beach) to the south(Nauset Light Beachy. The coarser materials tend to be deposited at the foreshore than at the backshore. Especially gavel content(%) Is very high in northern beaches. The lavel fraction tended to concentrate at the toe of the beach. In addition to gravel. the beach and nearshore bar also tended to be deposite of very coarse sand and the Inner fraction accumulate in the offshore bar, Grainsize analyses of sediment Indicates that the coarsest sands Including gravel accumulate In the beach and nearshore bar, the finer fraction winnowed out by wave action to be deposited In the offshore bar. The beach and nearshore bar sands and gavel are subsequently transported laterally by the wave-driven longshore drift, and finally they come to rest in the distal end of Provincetown Hook. The faller offshore sands are trnasported laterally to the south by net southward-directed longshore current.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.14-21
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• 2013

This study examined the field application of a 3-D numerical model (LES-WASS-3D) to the estimation of the nearshore current at Songdo beach, Busan. The wave and tide conditions observed at Songdo beach during Typhoon Ewiniar (July 10, 2006) were used in a numerical simulation. The numerical wave heights were in good agreement with the field data. The spatial distributions of the wave heights, mean water levels, and mean flows obtained from the numerical simulation are discussed in relation to the bottom topographical change near Songdo beach before and after Typhoon Ewiniar. The results revealed that LES-WASS-3D is a powerful tool for estimating the nearshore current in the field.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.96-106
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• 2000

Though the recent years, large scale structures have been built on offshore for utilization of coastal ocean space as offshore airport and marine terminals. Sometimes, those big scale structures, however, happened to act as significant barriers against waves and severe beach erosion would take place on the coast. The present study deals nearshore topography changes affected by construction of an offshore structure with different distance from the shore. The series of three dimensional movable bed experiments have been examined in detail. Moreover, in order to make clear the relation of nearshore currents and local erosions behind offshore structure, the nearshore currents are calculated by Boussinesq equation model and compared with the same scale condition of the physical model experiments.