• 복식
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• 제26권
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• pp.69-85
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• 1995

Recently Southeast Asia has developed, so the world concerns about these regions. Ethnic fashion in 90's is mostly the influence of these regions' folk costume. The purpose of this study is to review aes-thetic aspects of folk costume in Southeast Asia, to investigate the influence on modern fashion and to predict the possibility of Asia fashion's adaption to modern fashion and to help the cre-ation of fashion design. First of all, the folk costume in Southeast Asia is classified drapery style and sarong style. These non-west clothing appeal to modern fashion as the oriental tranditional beauty. Ethnic fashion appeared in 1990's is attempted to be more complex and variable than the pre-vious ethnic fashion. Asian ethnic fashion influenced from folk costume of Southeast Asia is-wholly or party-the style, color, motif from each country's folk costume. And each country's unique art became the motive of the creative design. Specially, Aosai and Quan in Vietnam and sar-ong style in most Southeast Asia are important motives expressing minority's nostalgia. These are expressed in variable ways. Which are harmonized with latest other fashion trend : retro style and naturalism, Layered look, hippie look, unfinished sewing technic and manual technic are used one image matched the folk costume of Southeast Asia which is natural. Another characterstic in Asian ethnic fashion is a multi-ethnic. This harmonizes the different culture between the Orient and the West beyond the age and culture, and combines each folk costume. It is involved that the fashion can develop indivisual country's costumes mixed with her own unique characteristics and the fashion break the traditional concept and disagree with a certain coordinate rule and it indicates that the fashion shows various style, mood, volume and room as well as space. Like this recent Asian ethnic fashion comes to us in a strange favor. The people who are tired of traditional western civilization's outcome will receive a great tastes from the Asian ethnic fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2000

Kitsch is one of the various mass-cultural phnomena in the late 20th century, with it's own new aesthetic value, 'self-expression' through 'destruction', denying the existing established way of thinking and escaping from the stereotypes or fixed ideas. This is called 'aesthetic inadequacy'. The purposes of this study are to examine the different preferences between the western and the domestic Kitsch Fashions to investigate the formative and aesthetic characteristics of domestic Kitsch Fashion based on substantial data, and to propose the creative Kitsch design. The results of this study are as follows; 1. The formative characteristics of domestic Kitsch Fashion are marked by amusement, disharmony, epicureanism, satire, and use of imitation. 2. Then, based on theoretic research, this study applies aesthetic characteristics of Kitsch to the creative design. According to the formative characteristics for Kitsch Fashion, the Design Concepts are developed in order of Optimism, Multi Form, Decadence Chic, Neo-Naturalism, and Poor Vintage. And the Fabric direction is given in Design Story with sub theme such as Cheerful, Game, Decadence, Environment, and Grunge.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.73-85
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is for considering about Zen fashion in the point of view of culture transition. Through this research, the Far-East including Korea will be confirmed as a center of fashion culture in 21st century. The contents are the meaning of culture transition in Post Modern period, the meaning of Zen and changing of fashion trend as the background of Zen Fashion, and the characteristics of Zen fashion design. The results are as follows: Anti-western movement or dismantlement of culture has been represented the limitation of western centered culture. So the interesting about East means the changing to east from west in ideas. To make new creation in fashion field, the comprehension about the western fashion which has been preceeded and new trials using the our tradition will be needed. Zen is a kind of Buddhism and the essence of it is to find myself and express individual experiences. The change of one's sens of value, new age movement and concerning of environment and ecology make more comfortable, simple and healthy elements in clothing. The fusion style is under a vogue in life style and Zen is the core of this trend. The characteristics of Zen fashion are flat dismantlement which has been know as a Japanese style, oriental minimalism and nature beauty of ecology. This characteristics are found not only the shape, color but the will of the behind. The pursing temperance and naturalism are represented the fashion culture transition from the West to Far-East. Therefore multi points of fashion research is very important and the identify about Korean fashion is required in lately for new fashion paradigm.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.159-170
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• 2005

In this paper we examine the patterns of the subcultural fashion styles in the 20th century in terms of various subcultures in the period. First, we define the concept of the subcultural fashion styles and in turn, examine the subcultural fashion styles from 1950s to 1990s while focusing on the way each generation resisted against the mainstream through its styles. The subcultural fashion styles examined and analyzed in this study are mainly British and American styles. some of European and Western Indian styles are also included. In this paper, a subcultural fashion style is understood as a way of deviate or resistant expression within a society. It differentiates itself from the main style by deliberately and publicly asserting its own identity. And as a result, it is realized in a form of a fashion with its repressed subconsciousness, with resistance to the alienation from the society, and with deviation from the normative ethics and the morality of a society. In conclusion, we classify the subcultural fashion styles into two patterns based on their form of resistance which tries to distance itself from the ritual code of the day: the dressing of the escape from time and the dressing of the escape from space. The first pattern is characterized by nostalgia or futurism, and includes psychedelic, rastafarian, raver, techno style. The second Pattern includes surfer, folky, hippy, new age traveller, cyberpunk style. Especially, an emphasis is given on ethnicity, naturalism, or a closed space within a city in dressing of the escape from space.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.131-139
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• 2001

The fashion designers in Korea can achieve the winning position in the competitive international market of fashion industry by adapting our own traditional beauty to the modem fashion design through the modernization of the Korean traditional styles. Therefore, this study attempted to analyze the works of the active Korean fashion designer, Lee Young-Hee, focusing on the subject how she incorporated the modem fashion with the elements of Korean traditional costume. In order to study this subject, both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and analyse the design elements of Korean costume used in the designer's works found from the major fashion magazines, FASHION TODAY, WWD, ELLE, BAZAAR, Marie Claire, Areumdown-Uri-Ot, The Beauty of Korea and FASHION SHOW from 1993 to 1999. The collected research data, 95 works, was counted and analyzed in terms of the formal characteristics borrowed from Korean traditional clothing items and their application techniques. Other aesthetic characteristics of her works such as color, fabric and pattern were also analyzed. As a result of the study, it was found that Lee Young-Hee has adapted many different kinds of major Korean clothing items including 'chima', 'paji', 'po', and 'chogori'. Also it was apparent to note that the formal characteristics of Korean traditional clothing items were successfully incorporated into her fashion design works expressing the beauty of oriental grace, naturalism, sophistication, and above all, the modem sense.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.280-291
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to research characteristics of costume which is expressed in Gustav Klimt's Paintings. In the end of 19th century and the beginning of 20century Vienna, considered to be the fashion Mecca after Paris, the creativity of such artists allowed the 'Anti-Fashion Movement' to set itself up against the frippery of the costume of the time. The Secession Movement received the effect of Art Nouveau and Symbolism and Klimt led of this movement as a forerunner in Vienna. Many women appealed in Klimt's Painting with unique costume which contrast to traditional fashion that period time. The characteristics of costume in his paintings are as follows. Firstly, Klimt drew in the women's costume which made by designers of Vienna Workshops, at one of motive of his work of art. Costume got a opportunity became a new art field, because there was no conceptual thinking of a fashion designer at that time. Secondly, the costume of Klimt' paintings had both anti-fashion design and elements of fashion, so he gained considerable support from leaders of high fashion who was the upper classes. Thirdly, both anti-fashion and fashion appeared in his painting at first period. Costume which made at the Vienne Workshop appealed portraits of Klimt paints at the second period. Klimt interested in Naturalism, Japonism, Orientalism and Greece style and expressed his characteristic techniques at the last period. Lastly, Klimt liberated the woman from a physical and spirit restriction through his various artistic presentations.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.53-70
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to review the innovation of Vidal Sassoon's hair design. His hair styling was created in 1950-60, and it was related to the Zeitgeist, 'Convulsion'. It was aesthetic reform that eliminated artificially of headdress through new design concept and high technique. It was social renovation that changed women's life through freedom, ease and mobility of hair form. Also, it was scientific innovation that emphasized improvement of hair care. Therefore this researcher set a high value on his contribution in beauty industry, and studied the formative characteristics of his hair styling. The results are as follows: The formative characteristics are classified into the simplicity of form, the mobility of construction, and the variety of color and texture. 1. The simplicity of form showed through geometric form. Vidal Sassoon's hair design had the overthrow traditional concept of femininity and beauty; in addition, it conferred freedom on not only hair itself but also women's action. 2. The naturalism and mobility of construction was found in layered and softly swinging hair made up by skillful cutting technique. It was developed by studying on the dynamism of sports in 1984 LA Olympic games. 3. The variety of color and texture showed conspicuously its visual evidence because of the simplicity of form. Especially, he borrowed factors of fine art, that is to say, form, space, texture, line, color and light, and created a performance art. His work is analyzed into an art, and he is one of the best artists.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.629-647
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• 2017

As fashion has concentrated increasingly on inner values, it has become more directly connected with human life and society. This study analyzed anti-fashion, a movement that resists mainstream society and culture, which it views as causing inner conflicts such as competition, mammonism, consumerism, and egoism by fixating solely on the pursuit of growth and improvement. The study examined Kinfolk, an independent lifestyle magazine, to determine the essential values and principles that comprise this movement's refusal of mainstream modern society. The analysis of Kinfolk identified the following characteristics of, the Kinfolk lifestyle: essentialism, nature-friendliness, retro sensibilities, socio-ethical awareness, and diversity. Essentialism refers to the pursuit of essence, brevity, innovation based on tradition and slow life. Nature-friendliness involves communion with nature and humanity, animal-friendliness, de-industrialization, de-urbanization, and nomadic behavior. The components of the retro sensibility include nostalgia, and interests in vintage culture, and handcrafts. Diversity encompasses commonplaceness, various subcultures, agelessness, genderlessness, acceptance of other cultures, and new understanding. The analysis identified the tendencies of anti-fashion in Kinfolk magazine as simplicity, naturalism, resistance to novelty, ethics, and inclusiveness. Anti-fashion pursues the essential values of human life that have been lost or forgotten in modern society. It is important to pay constant attention to the values of minority, non-mainstream and indie cultures that represent anti-fashion. It exerts considerable influence and has great potential as an area for the development of various style-based paradigms rather than as a single fashion direction.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.565-577
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• 1999

In this world of globalism, achieving the winning position in the competitive international market is essential in the area of fashion industry. For this reason, we should accomplish this task by adapting our own traditional beauty to the modern fashion design through the modernization of the Korean traditional style. Therefore, this study attempted to analyze the fashion design works of the active Korean fashion designer, Sul Yoon-Hyung, focusing on the subject how she incorporated the modern fashion design with the traditional motives. In order to study this research subject, both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and analyse the textile motives used in the designer's works found from the major fashion magazines, Bazaar, Vogue, Marie Claire, ELLE, WWD, and Fashion Today during the last seven years(1993-1999). The collected research data, 68 works, was counted and analyzed in terms of the categories of Korean traditional motives they were adapted from, the application techniques, and the aesthetic characteristics. As a result of the study, it was found that Sul Yoon-Hyung has adapted different kinds of Korean traditional motives including motives borrowed from the nature such as flowers and animals, geometrical forms, and Chinese letters with different specific symbolic meanings for each motif and many different techniques were utilized to apply these motives. It was apparent to note that the Korean traditional motives were successfully incorporated into her fashion design works expressing the beauty of oriental grace, naturalism, sophistication, and above all, the modern sense.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.220-233
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to reviews the Chinesm expressed in the modern fashion world after the year 2000, and underlines the characteristics of Chinesm, as the Chinese fashion market is getting bigger and becomes the cynosure of the world. The method of this study is by research on precedence as well as related researches in Korean and foreign books. The results were as follows. First, the Chinesm recreates the historic motive which is the traditional costume, ornaments, or make-up etc. to maintain the harmony between the modernity and the past, preventing from following or mimicking. Second, the Chinesm expresses the combinational and harmonious manner with the combined image on the Chinese original symbolic factors mixing with the foreign spatial-temporal elements, the various styles of wear and decoration, and the different images to have the natural or equivocal relationship with one another. Third, The Chinesm magnifies the feminine atmosphere to express the sensual image by using effectively the traditional design factors, which is tight silhouette, coverture, and exposure. Fourth, the Chinesm professes the pro-naturalism embracing the human without conflicting with the human nature. It seems possible on the new value mixed with colors, materials, or patterns, etc.