• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.539-548
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to know outer and inner characteristics of Bobos style regarded the latest fashion and to estimate the characteristics of fashion trend in 21st century and direction of fashion in the future, In terms of contentions of this study, we firstly studied concept, background, general characteristics which had been introduced in Sociology. And then, we studied the effect which the style of Bobos had been given by investigating the concept and style of Hippies and Yuppies. Also, we analysed trend of Bobos represented in modem fashion and tried to examine outer and inner features of Bobos through the result of analysis. Bobos can defined as 'Bourgeois Bohemian' who have both mundane desire about success and are high-educated elite class in information-oriented society. The fashion styles which had affected Bobos were psychedelic, naturalism, unisex, ethnic, layered, grunge of Hippies in 1960s and traditional, power-look, contemporary-look, sports wear, casual wear of Yuppies in 1980s. As a result of examining features of Bobos style, we can know that outer feature of Bobos style showed a reasonable harmony regardless of formalities and inner features showed a tendency to seek comforts. Also, Bobos style showed various and free styles, textile materials and colors and complex features to transcend the time and region, and culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.129-141
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• 2003

Much has been said in the 21st century about advanced information society following industrial society, so information appeared obviously. Based on the development of digital network due to such highly developed information, foresee a new phenomenon in anthropology. The new phenomenon is urban nomad such jobnomad who may change the culture of settlement with a long history into the culture of nomad. This study was to analyze the culture and fashion style of job nomad who may be a trend of fashion in the future. The results of this study are as follows Firstly, the features of job nomad are new communication technology and information technology called new media. And key words for job nomad are non-possession and professionalism and their feature in labor is one(1) person project. Secondly, job nomad to be a trend of future fashion is seeking wearable electric machine - wearable computer fashion. Thirdly, Zen style fashion reflecting Zen idea has such features as naturalism. indeterminism, equalitarianism, and moderation. Those features coincide with the tendency of job nomad who may lead the culture of fashion in the 21st century and do with human being's life style in the 21st century. Expect that job nomad appears newly in social and cultural phenomenon through this study can be developed toward a new and sensible fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.423-438
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• 2021

This study examined fashion through the lens of Charles Taylor's concept of 'Authenticity.' From the point of view of 'Authenticity,' fashion can be thought of as "a means of expressing one's inner truth" and "affirmative about everyday life." According to 'Authenticity,' fashion, in the first case ("one's inner truth") appears as 1) magnetic uniqueness, 2) inner subjectivity, and 3) poiēsis. And in the second case ("affirmative about everyday life") it is expressed as 1) naturalism, 2) positivity of self-expression, and 3) existentiality. For this study, we selected a high school 'ganzi' contest, whose participants were deemed to have a high level of interest in and understanding of fashion, compared to other teenagers living in South Korea. Among the 33 participants in 'Goganzi' Seasons 1 and 2, we analyzed the styles and looks of 30 works by the six people who made it to the final stage. As a result, we broke down the aesthetic values of authenticity that teenagers express through their fashion into three categories: plurality, originality, and creativity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.247-263
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• 1996

This study focuses on a comparative study of 1960s'retro look mode in terms of the past and present in order to find out in detail how it in the past is readjusted after it was appeared in the present. For such a study, in the first place the contents of the dress and its ornament of a retro-look fashion was refined through some literature, and then, some works of the dress and its ornament of a retro-look fashion was refinded through some literature, and then, some works of eh dress and its ornament revived in 1960's mode were analysed, based on some fashion magazines at home and abroad like Bazaar, Fashion etc News in 1990s. After 1960s'retro-look mode which reappeared in 1990s was researched in terms of silhouette, detail, texture, color, and pattern, differences between those tow periods of 1960s and 1990s and their causes are summarized as follows: 1. In the aspect of silhouette, it appears that the silhouette in 1960s is that of somewhat stiff, charming image in which Body is excluded and the silhouette in 1990s is that of an soft, feminie image in which Body is emphasized. It was understood that the cause of such a delicate difference comes from the influences of the change in aesthetic senses or awareness, naturalism and neo-feminism. 2. In the aspect of detail, it appears that the detail in 1990s is of an attempt to express in diverse images, compared to that in 1960s, and new images are created new image in 1990s by means of presenting entirely ill-matched images. The major cause of that is because of Antistandard fashion. 3. In the aspect of textures, it appears that a great feature is that the texture in 1990s is of that introduced, being changed in natural and high-class looks, compared to that of 1960s. It was reviewed that the major cause of this is because of a result from the influence of naturalism and the technical growth in various fields which has brought the development of dress material. 4. In the aspect of color, it appears that the color in 1990s is of an image of primary color which is far more sensual and feminie than that of 1960s. It was studied that the major cause of ti comes from the influence of neo-feminism, etc. 5. In the aspect of pattern, it appears that the pattern in 1990s is of that of symbolism, transposition, and the ecletic feature of various modes which appear more deeply than that of 1960s. It was studied that the major cause of such changes is because of a trend of postmodernism which has brought the change of the spiritual structure different from that in the age of modernism. In conclusion, it was understood that the retro-look fashion is of an expression technic of dress and its ornament in that o dress in the pst is simply imitate, but new reconstitution is done by using the elements in the past. at the same time, ti was clarified that even though the elements in the past are revived as they were, dress and its ornament is governed by the social and cultural environments of he day, and with this proof it can be said that the fashion in each age is of a reflection of social phenomena of that age.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.69-78
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to investigate of fabric characteristics in women's wear as reviewing the fabric trends in 1990's domestic fashion. As a method to accomplish this research, I have examined the articles related to fashion fabric and fashion trend magerzines. This study considered women's wear relatively used diverse fabrics, there was not previous study regarding the fabrics used in domestic, since the 1990's. The social fators for the 1990's fashion were the influence of the informed, the increased concern for the ecological environment, the sattlement of young popular culture, the increase of resonable consume and social anxiety. To understand the fashion trends of the 1990's women's wear, it is divided three periods. The traditional period is from 1991 to 1993, the mixed period of the naturalism and the technology is from 1994 to 1995, the retro period is from 1996 to 1999. The charateristics of the fabrics used in 1990's women's wear were the appearance of various functional fabrics, the development of new synthetic fabric with high sensitivity, the popularization of circular knit, the fabrics with a retro mood toward traditional feminine mood and the blending of fabrics. The fashion of 1990 have had the characteristics of various utilization of the materials on the base of reasonable and practical trends than the changes of design and detail.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.43-59
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to examine the design of Paul Smith based on characteristics of the Britishness. Britishness formed according to the national character to encompass the lifestyles and traits of individual people through a shared natural environment and historic experiences within the national boundaries of the U.K., amid current global trends toward gigantic single market. In every season, Paul Smith is presenting various authentic tailored suits, reflecting the empirical positivism, characterized by traditional conservatism through contemporary reinterpretation, characteristic individualism through a reproduction of the sub-culture, optimistic naturalism through fabric and printing on the basis of the Britishness. This study analyzed the characteristics of the Paul Smith brand distinguished through its unique highlights of strong symbolism of the well-balanced U.K., with very individualistic and innovative ideas presenting basic and methodical research of Britishness. Additionally, the results of this study are expected to facilitate in establishing the identity of the fashion brand and exploring its direction, and it will also provide a crucial basis to seek the methods to express the identity of Korean culture in this era of globalization, setting a new course for the fashion industry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.595-602
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• 2007

This study examined the aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style which is being considered as the representative classic of Western fashion and the transformations of those Grecian styles on the fashion of the twentieth century. This study used positive research method using literatures on art history and clothing history, fashion related publications, and magazines and websites to understand the trend of fashion designer's collections. The study results are as follows. The aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style was considered to be the ideal beauty combined with symmetry, the functional beauty combined with non-construction, and the sensual beauty combined with natural body. The ideal beauty combined with symmetry appears as a style that shows idealistic proportion of a body emphasizing high-waist based on the golden ratio and the body as a whole rather than details. The functional beauty combined with non-construction appears as perfect recreation a body in its original and natural form. The clothing takes a form that does not have any structural design and has simplified cutting and sewing. It uses pins and strings to fix up the form of clothing which is flexible and naturally draped. The sensual beauty combined with natural body is found in natural silhouette dress alluding naked body in connection with Rousseau' naturalism in neoclassic period. Throughout the twentieth century, the desire for Grecian style was conveyed by a single detail or through an array of allusive effects.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.309-323
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• 2013

This study examined the expression mode and feature about photomontage indicated in the 21st century's Contemporary fashion. This intends to have better understanding on photomontage and to provide theoretical explanation to help a creative design development using photomontage in the future. For the research method, review over photomontage concept and its historical background was carried out with relevant literature and precedent studies. Then, analysis was followed about 258 pieces of photomontage application works featured in the four major global collections from 2001S/S to 2011F/W. Among types of photomontage expression in the Contemporary fashion, objects in the nature like animal, plant, scenery picture took up the highest frequency as motive. Other types appeared in the following order: the people-oriented type such as eminent person's figure or partial body, the ready-made image including diverse daily goods in the modern consumption society, a variety of printed stuff like cartoon, newspaper and magazine, the type of photomontage expression through borrowing the earlier famous art pieces or doing the cooperative work with artists in different fields, applications like architecture, land marks in many cities in the world, and interior, things assembled with various images, modified religious images in photomontage from Buddha or holy picture. Therefore, the modern fashion that uses photomontage could possibly feature popularity, naturalism, playfulness and creativity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.131-142
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• 2008

One of the major fashion trends is the naturalism and ecology-conscious trend. The natural looks required in the trend require somewhat random distribution of yarn linear density, which results in irregular appearance along the yarn. This is a technically challenging work of producing yarns that look natural far from being artificial yet maintaining the intricately aesthetic randomness without causing process disturbances. This study focused on the characteristics of fabrics made of natural cellulosic fibers including hemp, ramie, flax, and polyester fabrics. Image analysis of the fabric samples included area measurement of yarn specimen, FFT and inverse FFT. Measurements of bending resistance, thickness, air permeability, and weight were also implemented to interpret the structural differences.