DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

The Characteristics of Paul Smith Fashion from the View of Britishness

브리티시니스 관점에서 살펴본 폴 스미스 패션 특성

  • Kim, Sora (Dept. of Fashion Design & Marketing, Seoul Women's University) ;
  • Lee, Keumhee (Dept. of Fashion Design & Marketing, Seoul Women's University)
  • 김소라 (서울여자대학교 패션산업학과) ;
  • 이금희 (서울여자대학교 패션산업학과)
  • Received : 2020.01.15
  • Accepted : 2020.02.19
  • Published : 2020.02.28

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to examine the design of Paul Smith based on characteristics of the Britishness. Britishness formed according to the national character to encompass the lifestyles and traits of individual people through a shared natural environment and historic experiences within the national boundaries of the U.K., amid current global trends toward gigantic single market. In every season, Paul Smith is presenting various authentic tailored suits, reflecting the empirical positivism, characterized by traditional conservatism through contemporary reinterpretation, characteristic individualism through a reproduction of the sub-culture, optimistic naturalism through fabric and printing on the basis of the Britishness. This study analyzed the characteristics of the Paul Smith brand distinguished through its unique highlights of strong symbolism of the well-balanced U.K., with very individualistic and innovative ideas presenting basic and methodical research of Britishness. Additionally, the results of this study are expected to facilitate in establishing the identity of the fashion brand and exploring its direction, and it will also provide a crucial basis to seek the methods to express the identity of Korean culture in this era of globalization, setting a new course for the fashion industry.

Keywords

References

  1. Bratberg, O., & Haugevik, K. M. (2010). A taste of cultural Britain. British Politics Review. Retrieved December 01, 2019, from http://www.britishpoliticssociety.no/British%20Politics%20Review%2001_2011.pdf
  2. Buxbaum, G. (2005). Icons of fashion: The 20th century. Munich: Prestel Publishing.
  3. Crane, D. (2004). 패션의 문화와 사회사 [Fashion and its social agendas: Class, gender, and identity in clothing] (M. Seo, Trans.). Paju: Hangilsa. (Original work published 2000).
  4. Duke of Windsor, 1941. (2012). Retrieved October 12, 2019, from https://www.the-shoe-aristocat.blogspot. kr/2012/11/hrh-prince-of-wales-duke-of-windsor.html
  5. Edwardian Fashions, 1908. (2012, April 4). Retrieved October 12, 2019, from https://elegantvocals.wordpress.com/2012/04/04/titanic-fashions/
  6. Gannon, M. J. (2002). 세계 문화 이해 [Understanding global cultures: Metaphorical journeys through 17 countries]. (Y. Choi & S. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Communication Books. (Original work published 1994).
  7. Hall, S. (2000). 모더니티의 미래 [Modernity and its futures]. (H. Jeon, Trans.). Seoul: Hyunsil Book. (Original work published 1992).
  8. Han, D. (1996). 영국 그 나라를 알고 싶다 [I want to know the country of England]. Paju: Seomoondang.
  9. Haye, A. (1998). The cutting edge: 50 years of British fashion, 1947-1997. London: V & A Publications.
  10. Hippy: The Hyde Park 'Love In', 1967. (2011, February 23). The Guardian. December 22, 2019, from https://www.theguardian.com/books/2011/feb/23/barry-miles-top-10-counterculture
  11. Jones, D. (1995). Paul Smith: True Brit.. London: The Design Museum.
  12. Kang, K. (2011). 영국문화의 이해 [Understanding British culture]. Seoul: Kyungmoon.
  13. Langford, P. (2000). Englishness identified: Manners and character 1650-1850. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
  14. Lee, D. (2003). A historical survey on British identity. Journal of British & American Studies, 9, 153-168.
  15. Lee, J. (2007). A study of Anglomania appeared in modern fashion (Unpublished master's thesis). Sookmyung Women's University, Seoul, Korea.
  16. Lee, J., Jo, J., & Lee, Y. (2010). 폴 스미스 재킷디자인에 나타난 색채특성 [The color characteristics of Paul Smith's jacket design]. Proceedings of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Conference (pp.203-205), Seoul: The Korean Society of Clothing & Textiles.
  17. Lee, J., & Park, S. (2011). 패션, 문화를 말하다: 패션으로 20세기 문화 읽기 [Fashion, culture: Read 20th century culture by fashion]. Seoul: Yekyong.
  18. Lewis, R. D. (1996). When cultures collide: Leading across cultures. London: Nicholas Brealey International.
  19. McDermott, C. (2002). Made in Britain:: Tradition and Style in Contemporary British Fashion. London: Mitchell Beazley.
  20. McDowall, D. (1999). Britain in close up. London: Longman.
  21. Mods. (2017, February 3). Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://londonist.com/2016/07/where-to-be-mod-in-london
  22. Morley, D., & Robins, K. (2001). British cultural studies: Geography, nationality and identity. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
  23. Park, J. (2006). 영국적인, 너무나 영국적인: 문화로 읽는 영국인의 자화상 [British, so British: A self-portrait of an Englishman in culture]. Seoul: Guiparang.
  24. Park, W. (2002). 영국: 지역.문화.사회의 이해 [United Kingdom: Understanding of the region, culture and society]. Seoul: Sonamoo.
  25. Park, W. (2003). English identity and ways of its expression. Journal of British & American Studies, 9, 211-254.
  26. Park, W. (2008). 영국인의 문화와 정체성: 대처주의와 장 시장이 부른 전통의 위기 [British culture and identity: The crisis of tradition brought by Thatchrrism and free market]. Seoul: Sonamoo.
  27. Paul Smith 1997 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 45, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=15&collection=9388&image=175536
  28. Paul Smith 1998 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 30, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=106&collection=9366&image=174435
  29. Paul Smith 1998 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 42, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=5&collection=9366&image=174334
  30. Paul Smith 1999 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 18, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=4&collection=9338&image=171704
  31. Paul Smith 2000 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 36, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=111&collection=9304&image=168980
  32. Paul Smith 2000 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 39, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=35&collection=9304&image=168904
  33. Paul Smith 2001 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 46, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=95&collection=8768&image=114203
  34. Paul Smith 2002 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 22, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-model-at-fashion-show-of-men-in-skirts-held-at-vand-a-museum-designer-19537118.html
  35. Paul Smith 2002 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 40, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=64&collection=9225&image=162146
  36. Paul Smith 2002 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 43, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=91&collection=9225&image=162173
  37. Paul Smith 2005 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 16, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2005-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#34
  38. Paul Smith 2006 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 14, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2006-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#34
  39. Paul Smith 2007 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 23, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=130&collection=13751&image=1835642
  40. Paul Smith 2008 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 20, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#35
  41. Paul Smith 2008 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 24, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#5
  42. Paul Smith 2008 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 35, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/details#34
  43. Paul Smith 2008 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 17, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2008-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#9
  44. Paul Smith 2009 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 37, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#44
  45. Paul Smith 2009 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 41, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#8
  46. Paul Smith 2010 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 12, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#42
  47. Paul Smith 2010 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 19, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#8
  48. Paul Smith 2010 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 25, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?collection=21899&p=0&of=45
  49. Paul Smith 2011 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 13, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#48
  50. Paul Smith 2012 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 33, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#43
  51. Paul Smith 2012 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 34, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#42
  52. Paul Smith 2013 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 27, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#16
  53. Paul Smith 2013 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 47, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#38
  54. Paul Smith 2013 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 26, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#30
  55. Paul Smith 2014 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 38, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#24
  56. Paul Smith 2015 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 44, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#47
  57. Paul Smith 2016 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 31, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#21
  58. Paul Smith 2016 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 28, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#1
  59. Paul Smith 2017 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 15, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#9
  60. Paul Smith 2017 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 21, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#1
  61. Paul Smith 2017 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 29, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#11
  62. Paul Smith 2019 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 32, Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection#36
  63. Psychedelic: Group Junior's Eyes's Album Cover Design, 1969. (2011, April 10). Retrieved October 12, 2019, from http://rockasteria.blogspot.com/2011/04/juniors-eyes-battersea-power-station.html
  64. Punk. (n.d.). Retrieved October 12, 2019, from https://anarchyuksite.wordpress.com/original-punk-fashion/
  65. Queen Victoria with Her Son Edward, Her Grandson George and Her Great-Grandson Edward and then The Duke of Windsor, 1894. (2013, July 22). The Guardian. Retrieved October 12, 2019, from https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2013/jul/22/royal-baby-lineage-family-tree
  66. Rouse, E. (2003). 코르셋에서 펑크까지 [Understanding fashion]. (J. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Sijirak. (Original work published 1989).
  67. Sin, S., Park, E., & Sin, D. (2001). 미국문화와 영국문화 [American-British cultures]. Daejeon: Moonkyung.
  68. Skinhead, 1969. (2016, September 21). Mail Online. Retrieved October 12, 2019, from https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3800192/Fascinating-pictures-skinheads-rampage.html
  69. Smith, P., Gibson, W., & Violette, R. (2008). You can find inspiration in everything (and if you can't, look again). London: Violette Edition.
  70. Song, E. (2003). A study on formativeness of modern English men's wear: Design of Paul Smith as main theme (Unpublished master's thesis). Hongik University, Seoul, Korea.
  71. Song, S. (2008). Cultural identity expressed through U.K. and U.S. fashion trends (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Seoul National University, Seoul, Korea.
  72. Teddy Boys, 1962. (2018). The Guardian. Retrieved October 12, 2019, fromhttps://www.theguardian.com/society/2018/feb/21/how-to-deal-with-teddy-boys-and-girls-archive-1961
  73. The Duke and Duchess of Windsor in Miami, 1941. (2011). The Guardian. Retrieved October 12, 2019, from https://www.theguardian.com/books/2011/oct/30/wallis-my-war-auspitz-review
  74. Yang, Y. (1992). 英國 國民性 小考 [A study of British nationality]. The Journal of Jeju English Language and Literature. 5, 73-93.