• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.781-791
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• 2004

Currently, as mordants, heavy metals are being used in dyeing process in order to improve dye uptake and dye fastness. These chemicals, however, are mostly harmful to human body and the environment along with the pollution by effluent. Traditionally, rice straw ash solution, lime, etc. have been used as mordants in order to improve the effects on dye uptake and color fastness of dyestuffs. The study of natural mordants would, therefore, be vital to the development and succession of our traditional dyeing methods. In this study, as a preliminary step toward the use of rice straw ash solution for the nautral dyeing using Caesalpinia sappan, several aluminum compounds were employed as mordants. When the purified aluminum compounds were used, on the basis of unmordanted cotton fabric, the K/S values of the pre-mordanted and simultaneously mordanted fabrics increased by 2 or 3 times, while those of the post-mordanted fabrics decreased.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.90-98
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to estimate natural dyeing properties of Korean traditional paper (Hanji). Korean traditional paper, which made from bleached bast fiber pulp of Broussonetia kazinoki was used as base paper. As dyestuffs, hot water extractives of Phellodendron amurense bark, Rosa multiflora leaf and stalk, and Rubia cordifolia root and methanol extractives of Lithospermum erytrorhizon root were used. $Al_2(SO_4)_3$ and $Fe(OH)(CH_3COO)_2$ 0.5% solution were used as mordant. Soybean juice (10%), chitosan (0.1%), and skim milk (2%) solutions were used as auxiliary dyeing agents. Accelerated aging treatments of natural dyed Korean traditional papers were undergone at following conditions: exposure temperature, $80^{\circ}C$ relative humidity, 60%; wavelength, 340 nm; UV irradiance, $0.67W/m^2/nm$ exposure time, 24, 48, and 72 hours. Colors, color difference, and color fastness were examined for estimation of natural dyeing characteristics. The auxiliary dyeing agents treated Korean traditional papers were more superior the dyeing effectiveness about dyestuffs than untreated Korean traditional papers. The dyeing effectiveness of soybean juice treated Korean traditional paper was superior to the others. The color fastness of Korean traditional paper, which was dyed with Rubia cordifolia root extractives, was most inferior to the others.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.18-18
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• 2001

Natural colorants have attracted much attention all over the world because of their non-hazardous nature. The world is becoming increasingly aware of environmental issues, such as ozone layer depletion, water pollution and waste disposal problems. The use of synthetic dyestuffs for their synthesis and application in the dyeing industries has been criticized due to introduction of contaminants into the environment. This has led to the desire to turn to the traditional, and more natural way of life. In this study, the colorants of extract of Ginkgo biloba bark were analysed and their dyeing properties on silk, wool and cotton were studied. It was found that uv-visible absorption spectra of extract of Ginkgo biloba bark showed two strong absorption peaks in the range of 240∼400 nm. From the result of IR spectra, the major ingredient of extract of Ginkgo biloba bark seems to be the flavon which is one of the flavonoid derivatives. Silk, wool, and cotton dyed with the extract of Ginkgo biloba bark showed a reddish yellow color. Their color differences were increased drastically with repetition of dyeing by three times.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.50-56
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• 2003

Chitosan has been widely applied to the products in various industries such as textile fabrics, apparels, foods, medical area, etc. Cochineal has long been employed as one of natural dyestuffs in the textile industry. The effect of chitosan pre-treatment on the low-stress physical and mechanical properties of cochineal-dyed fabrics including cotton, silk, nylon and polyester fabrics was investigated in this study. The chitosan treatment and mordanting of the fabrics changed the bending, shear, compression, and surface properties of the fabrics. In cotton fabric specimens, while the increase of B(bending rigidity) of cotton is relatively high, the increase of G(shear rigidity) of cotton is relatively low. In nylon and PET fabric specimens, while the increase tendency of B is relatively low, that of G is high compared to the corresponding cotton fabrics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.57-70
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• 2005

Chitosan pre-treatment of the fabrics prior to the dyeing processes has been reported to increase the uptake of natural dyestuffs. In this study, cotton, nylon, and PET fabric specimens were pre-treated with chitosan prior to the dyeing (Method 1), or the state of chitosan acid salt formation, coated on the yarn surface, was destroyed prior to the dyeing process by alkaline neutralization process (Method 2). In case of the acid salt formed cotton (Method 1), treated fabrics showed more yellowish color component of cochineal, while alkali-treated (Method 2) cotton showed more uptake of bluish color of cochineal.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2019

This study provides a comprehensive evaluation of general characteristics of sized silk fabrics for the painting purpose. Two particular types of silk fabrics used for painting background were compared: a recreation of historical material and a mass produced material of present day. The sizing process made the surface characteristics of the silk fabrics more suitable for painting. The dyeing properties of the fabrics were related to the surface area of the fabrics, and had no significant effect on their mechanical properties. The antibacterial activity of the tannin-based natural dyestuffs were maintained after the sizing. The performance assessment by the KES-FB system showed that the fabrics are more prone to deteriorate after the sizing because the glue layer receives the most of the physical stresses.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.999-1009
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• 2004

Chitin is a derived product from the shell of shrimp or crab. Chitosan, a deacetylated product of chitin, has widely been used in the biomedical sector, food industry, and textile industry. Chitosan exhibits fiber-forming property under certain conditions. Nonwoven fabrics made of chitosan fibers may have diverse applications in the industry. Previous studies have revealed that the dye uptake properties of natural dyestuffs improved by the chitosan pretreatment on the fabric specimens. In this case, fabric specimen is coated with acidic salt form of chitosan, which is different from the pure chitosan, since the coating process employes coating with the acidic solution of the chitosan and subesquent drying. In this study, chitosan nonwoven fabric samples were prepared from chitosan sample having deacetylation degree of $100\%$ and molecular weight of 650,000. Chitosan nonwoven fabrics maintain the form of $-NH_2$ end-group. These in turn exhibit higher dye uptake ability than the fabrics coated with chitosan acidic solutions do.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.406-413
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• 2009

This study was carried out to investigate the natural dyeing characteristics of Korean traditional hand-made paper (Hanji). The Hanji was dyed black with extractive of gallnut (Rbusjavanica L), leaves of Amur maple (Acer ginnala), nutshell of chestnut (Castania crenata), and persimmon juice and Chinese ink. And moreover, the Hanji was dyed not only using single and combination of dyestuff but also changing mordants and mordanting procedure. And we estimated the relationship between dyeing characteristics and dyestuff concentration (o.w.f.). The gallnut was the most principal material dyeing black. The procedure of mordanting from copper acetate to Iron (II) chloride and dyeing from gallnut to Amur maple dyestuffs were the best dyeing method for the Hanji to black. The K/S value of dyed Hanji increased with increasing concentration of dyestuff.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.49-59
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• 2001

Natural red and yellow dyestuff was extracted from safflower (Carthamus tinctorius Linnaeus) by a new process of cellulase extraction compared with the conventional hot water extraction. Dyestuffs were extracted from safflower easily and repeatedly by means of cellulose as safflower cell wall destroyer. It means that new dyestuff extraction by cellulase improves not only yields of dyestuff from safflower successfully but also the rate of repetition of extraction. From the above experiments, the conclusions of this study were summarized as follows. 1. The optimum conditions of dyestuff extraction from safflower by general extraction method were that the solvent was the water of pH 6.0 on yellow dyestuff and 3% $K_2CO_3$ solution on red dyestuff, extraction temperature was $55^{\circ}C$, and extraction time was 30 min. 2. Among various cellulase, the NOVO cellulase was the best cell wall destroyer of safflower and finally produced the largest amount of dyestuff from safflower by cellulase extraction method. 3. The optimum conditions of dyestuff extraction by cellulase extraction method were conducted on 10 unit of cellulase per gram of safflower at $100m{\ell}$ water of pH 5.0 at $50^{\circ}C$ for 30 min.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.1-10
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• 2008

Yellow, one of the five direction colors, is a prevailing color in artificial dyeing. The color has implied and symbolized wealth and power since ancient times. Yellow has been extracted mainly from flowers. Shapes, colors and scents of flowers not only have enriched emotional mentality, but have also been used for medicinal herbs, and dyestuff since the very old days. Coloring matter from flowers is very beautiful, and it has been used for dyeing textiles. Textile dyeing have formed a color culture and developed a dyeing culture since ancient times. Flowers include a variety of color matters, and can be easily obtained around us. Therefore, flowers have been a widespread natural dyestuff. It is well known that beautiful colors can be extracted from flowers, which are eco-friendly and non-polluting. In addition, flowers are easily provided. In this study, yellow wild flowers were selected as subjects. Seven flowers with color matters distiguishable through the naked eye were used: Korean forsythia, golden-wave, Mongolian dandelion, sunflower, conflower, chelidonium and chrysanthemum. Coloring matters were extracted from the seven flowers, which have been used to create a variety of colors through various dyestuffs; and the colors have been analyzed and presented. Dyeing and coloring matters were tested and analyzed, and several types of dyestuff had also been scientifically measured after treatment.