• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.36-44
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• 2003

Chitosan treatment of textile fabrics has been studied to improve fabric characteristics and functions. Natural dyestuffs have been more actively employed in environment-conscious finishing products. In this study, chitosan treated cotton and nylon fabrics were prepared for dyeing with a few natural dyestuffs. These were Caesalpina sappan, Gardenia jasminoides, and cochineal in the form of powder. Hand-related physical and mechanical properties and luster characteristics were examined using the KES-FB series instruments and a set of luster measuring equipment. The chitosan treatment seemed to be more effective in terms of increasing stiffness for cotton fabric. Since cotton fibers have more -OH groups in the molecules, they provide more linkage sites with the chitosan than the nylon 6 fibers do.

• 임산에너지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.43-48
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• 2003

변색, 열화 등의 문제점을 보완하기 위해 볏짚 추출물을 이용하여 미표백 한지의 천연색에 가장 근접할 수 있는 염색법을 개발코자 본 실험을 수행하였다. 한지의 염색성은 염료 추출시간 및 염색시간보다 추출방법의 영향을 가장 크게 받는 것으로 나타났으며, 열수추출물이 냉수추출보다 우수하였다. 열수추출은 추출시간 및 염색시간에 관계없이 대조구와 유사한 색상을 나타냈으며 120분 추출, 45분간 염색한 한지는 대조구와 거의 동일한 색상을 나타냈다. 볏짚의 열수추출물은 천연염료로서 다양한 미표백 자연색의 발현이 가능한 우수한 염색특성을 나타냈다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.136-144
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to investigate various phenomena quantitatively occurring during the course of changing dyeing conditions of cotton and silk fibers in natural dyeing using Caesalpinia sappan. Paying attention to the fact that the color may be varied according to the extraction conditions of dyestuffs in Caesalpinia sappan dyeing, the color changes were investigated after dyeing using dyestuffs extracted at elevated temperature and dyestuffs extracted at room temperature. According to the extraction methods, the degree of color development for the category of red color and the category of yellow color has changed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.752-758
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• 2018

Due to environmental pollution and human hazards of some synthetic dyes, the global fashion companies are increasingly interested in eco-friendly products, especially natural dye. For the globalization of natural dyeing industry based on this concern, however, there are some deficiencies of standardization, specification, and conformity assessment on natural dyestuffs as well as natural dyeing process. These obstacles should be not only studied but also defined for a commercial transaction. Accordingly, a study for conformity assessment on commercialized natural dyestuffs (red) was conducted by HPLC analysis in this study. As the results of HPLC analysis, alizarin and purpurin, representative index ingredients, were detected in most of the samples, but the index ingredient content in each sample was different. In addition, some samples showed the variety of peaks including the index ingredients and others. It was inferred that the representative index ingredients could be used on the traceability of natural sourced dyestuffs. These results are related to the index ingredient consistency, standardization, and reproducibility of natural dyed products including such as yarns, fabrics, garments, and so on. Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that in order to determine the conformity assessment system for the satisfaction of all stakeholders, the offering of information on the origin, manufacturing process, and index ingredient content of natural dyes should be prioritized.

• 자연과학논문집
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.143-150
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• 1999

느릅나무껍질로부터 추출한 염액을 이용하여 면, 마, 모, 견, 나일론 섬유와의 염색성을 조사하였다. 각 섬유와의 최적 염색조건을 설정하였으며 합성매염제와 천연매염제를 사용하여 염색성에 미치는 매염제의 효과를 검토하였다. 또한 느릅나무껍질로 염색한 각 염색포의 세탁견뢰도와 일광견뢰도를 살펴보았다.실험결과 느릅나무 염색의 최적조건은 욕비 1: 40, $80^{\circ}C$, 60분 이었으며 견과 나일론이 가장 잘 염색되었다. 견, 모, 나일론의 경우 매염제의 처리에 의해 염색성이 향상되었으며 매염제의 종류에 따라 색상이 크게 변화되어 다양한 색상을 얻을 수 있었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2004

This study was carried out on the process of natural dye substances which can flock ultraviolet rays without producing harmful substances by pollution, germs, etc. While making human body safe in contact, extracting Gardenia, Sappan wood, Radix scutellariae, Cromwell, Mugwort, Gallnut, Lac. Those are used for curing diseases, dyeing silk cloth with those extracts, and examining the color fastness, Ultraviolet protection. From this study, the following conclusion was produced. Brightness was lower in pre-mordanting than in post. And color difference showed that Radix scutellariae was the highest. Aluminum-mordanting showed a higher color difference than Fe. Colorfastness to washing was high in all samples, and the degree of color-changing by washing was the highest in the sample dyed by gardenia, pre-mordanted gallnut showed the highest degree. Colorfastness to perspiration was the highest in gardenia. UV-A test showed that all samples a high rate of 85% or higher compared with test white cloth. Especially, post-mordanted radix scutellariae, pre-mordanted gallnut and post-mordanted sappanwood showed a superior blocking rate.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.431-440
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to revive the colors of combination dyeing and mixed dyeing with natural dyestuffs. The fabrics used were cotton and rayon. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were indigo, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. The effects of combination dyeing were as follows. First, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, while the surface K/S of cotton was over 15, that of rayon was over 17. Third, the results of the light fastness measurement showed the superiority (by over grade 4) of all the samples, except in the case of rayon fiber sample no. 6 (which had been pre-dyed with indigo five times before being dyed with P. amurense once and then being dyed with C. sappan once). In the color fastness to washing measurement, all fibers showed superiority (by over grade 3~4). In addition, the color fastness to dry cleaning of all fibers was satisfactory or excellent (by over grade 3). Fourth, according to the results of the tensile strength measurement, it tended to decrease in the case of cotton and increase in the case of rayon. Fifth, the results of the density measurement showed that the density of cotton decreased by about 15~20% in the case of warp and 10% in the case of weft for all samples. The density of rayon decreased 20% in the case of warp for all samples and increased 30% in the case of weft for all samples.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권4호
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• pp.53-59
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• 2007

We need to diversify the colors by natural dyeing for promotion and extention of the natural dyes market, because natural dyestuffs have the limitation the number of the colors to express, compare to synthetic dyestuffs. It was investigated that wool and silk fabrics could be dyed to green colors using natural mugwort and indigo as one of color diversification, in order to express green color that is difficult to be shown by natural dyeing. The mugwort dyebath was prepared to concentration of $25{\sim}100g/l$ using dried mugwort plant and indigo dyebath was prepared to concentration of $5{\sim}20g/l$ using natural indigo powder. Wool fabrics and silk fabrics were dyed to green(GY, G, BG in Munsell color wheel) by two batch methods using the mugwort and indigo dyebaths. the mugwort dyeing was applied at $80^{\circ}C$ for 20minutes and indigo dyeing applied for $5{\sim}7$ minutes in room temperature. The colorfastness to drycleaning and abrasion of the dyed fabrics were shown good as grade 4-5 or 5.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.929-941
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• 2014

Dyeability of Indian natural dyestuffs to fabrics was investigated. Indian dyestuffs are more inexpensive than domestic dyestuffs purchased at oriental medicine stores. We studied the dyeability of madder, marigold, and pomegranate imported from India on cotton, silk, and wool fabrics. Dyebaths of a combination ratio of 80:20, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 20:80 of madder and marigold, fabrics with orange colors were dyed. To evaluate the dyeability of dyed fabrics, K/S values, Munsell color values and CIE L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ were measured. The dyeability of fabrics dyed in dyebaths of pH 4 and pH 7 were higher than pH 10. The dyeability in pH 4 was better than pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with madder and marigold showed good dyeability and wool fabrics showed good affinity in madder dyebath and fair affinity in marigold dyebath. Cotton fabrics showed fair affinity in a marigold dyebath of pH 4 and pH 7. Cotton fabrics dyed with a 60:40 ratio of madder and marigold showed 4.76YR of Munsell color value. Silk Fabrics dyed with a 40:60 ratio showed 4.76YR and wool fabrics dyed with 20:80 ratio showed 5.57RY. The ratios produced the closest colors to 5.0YR of orange. This result indicated that marigold had a more powerful effect on cotton fabrics while madder was stronger on wool fabrics. Fading grades of washing colorfastness of wool and silk fabrics dyed in mixed dyebaths were higher than 3.5-4.0 and higher than homogeneous dyebaths. Staining grades of washing colorfastness of all dyed fabrics were between grades 3.5-5.0. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning was high as grades 4.0-5.0 in all of dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to light of dyed fabrics showed a fair grade of 3.5-5.0; in addition, wool fabrics showed lower grades than silk and cotton fabrics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.669-676
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• 2020

The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3-4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.