• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.462-468
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• 2014

This study investigates the dyeability of soybean protein fabric after dyeing with gallut. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water at $60^{\circ}C$ and 60min. Soybean protein fabric was dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration, temperature and time. After dyeing with gallut solution, dyeability (K/S) was obtained by CCM observation. Al, Cu and Fe were employed as a mordanting agents. Various color changing were produced by the interactions of mordants that were different from soybean protein fabric; however, Al mordant was not indicated as a variable color change. Fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Consequently, the dyeability of the soybean protein fabric dyed with gallut showed reasonable results at 100% o.w.f, $90^{\circ}C$, for 60min. Fastness to washing according to concentration indicated good result as more than grade (4-5) in general. Fastness to light was almost the same compared to fastness to washing at all concentrations. Fastness to washing according to mordants indicated good grade (4) in principle at Al, Cu, and Fe; in addition, fastness to light indicated a good grade too. Fastness to light also indicated the highest dyeability at Fe mordant. This study shows that gallut is a reasonable dyestuff to soybean protein fabric and that it is possible to manufacture a variety of products that use soybean protein fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.294-303
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• 2018

In this study, eco-friendly natural dyeing for pig leather was explored by using onion skin which is food waste. Sodium caseinate was used as a pre-treatment agent to improve dyeability of pig leather and its effect on dye uptake was investigated according to treatment concentration. Dye uptake of the pre-treated pig leather was increased by about two times compared to untreated one at 0.2% pre-treatment concentration. Onion skin colorant imparted YR color on pig leather. After mordanting, the color of pretreated/dyed pig leather was varied from brick-red to khaki shades. However, mordanting did not improved dye uptake of the pre-treated/dyed pig leather significantly. The color-fastnesses of un-mordanted samples to light, dry cleaning, rubbing were grades 3-4, 5, and 4, respectively, which is good enough to meet all Korean Standard for Fastness of leather products. After mordanting, the light fastness of pig leather was improved to 4, 4-5 grade. The efficacy of sodium caseinate as a pre-treatment agent for pig leather was verified by improved dye uptake and good colorfastness. And, the natural dyeing of pig leather using food waste would be a significant sustainable way in terms of eco-friendliness and reuse of biomass to reduce environmental pollution.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.902-912
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• 2003

The purpose of this research was two-folds; first, to investigate the type of soil contaminated in the Hunsang excavated from the Milchang-gun burial of Mapo for the purpose of proposing the adequate washing method, second, to utilize the chemical degradation result obtained from the previous research to identify the natural dye source used in the Hunsang textile. The application of KS K0251 test showed that the soil was more oleophilic than hydrophilic thus indicating that wet cleaning was more adequate that dry cleaning for the removal of Hunsang soil. The GC-MS result of the Hunsang extraction showed dimethyl phthalate and 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol as its degradation product and these coincided with the degradation products from the alizarin standard data of previous research. The comparison of the two suggested that it is likely that Hunsang was dyed with madder which has alizarin as its major chromophore.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.151-158
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to develop high-quality naturally dyed leisurewear with images of traditional Korean clothing that keeps a psychologically comfortable and physically pleasant environment at home and in vacation spots. The root bark of elm trees, the atopic skin, is also known to be effective for the relief of rhinitis and atopic diseases as well as stress and insomnia. However, there is insufficient color in the bark for the dyeing of fashion products, so to compensate for the lack of color, for dyeing purposes it was combined with a composite extract called Rubia akane Nakai resulting in a relatively bright red color. Except for the light fastness, all the fastnesses were rated 4 to 5, showing excellent results. Through complex dyeing using elm bark and pods extract the author produced four high-quality vests, one-piece, a gown, and jeogori-pantsuits of silk materials with Korean images that are suitable wear for relaxing comfortably at home and during breaks and which provide a comfortable and physically pleasant experience. The vest was made with the formal style of Bae-ja and Dang-eu, the dress is made of Cheok-lik, and the gown is made of Wonsam. It will be meaningful at a time when the importance of rest is increasing due to the healing clothes worn by busy modern people.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.53-58
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• 2008

New dyeable PP fiber and several products from it has been developed through dispersing polyester copolymer into PP resin by a Korean synthetic fiber manufacturer and its colleagues. The dyeing properties of PET/dyeable PP double knit fabric were examined with three different types of disperse dye in this study. It was found that the disperse dye, exhausted on dyeable PP at early stage of dyeing, migrated to PET at elevated dyeing temperature when two fibers were dyed in the same dye bath. The ratios of dye distribution between two substrates dyed at $120^{\circ}C$ and $130^{\circ}C$ showed no difference. S type disperse dyes showed good build-up properties and acceptable color fastness while high light fastness type exhibited the lowest amounts of exhaustion but excellent color fastness. It might be concluded that the most appropriate dye for PET/dyeable PP double knit fabric was S type, and that some color difference between PET side and dyeable PP side was unvoidable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1408-1417
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• 2007

In Korea, to deal with the housing needs of the elderly, the government operates free nursing homes and residential homes. And to deal with the needs for daily necessities, imported products or products for the disabled have been supplied for the elderly. The government has recognized the importance of silver industry in this rapidly aging society and has established strategies to vitalize industries related to seniors to deal with the seniors' need for food, clothing, and shelter. This study examined the necessity of nursing home gowns, and the development of nursing home gowns that are environmentally friendly, beautiful and functional for the new silver generation. For this study, literature review and Internet search were conducted regarding the status of silver fashion, necessity of nursing home gowns, emergence of new silver generation and change in lifestyle, and value and utilization of natural dye and traditional patterns. To produce nursing home gowns, fabric was dyed using fermented indigo dying, and 3 styles of nursing home gowns for each gender were designed in consideration of seasons. Lastly, these gowns were evaluated by fashion experts, medical personnel, hospital gown and silver wear experts, and natural dye experts. The results showed that the traditional Korean designs developed in this study were excellent and the fermented indigo dye was appropriate for the nursing home gowns. The development of nursing home gowns in this study will be utilized as basic material for the development of silver wear and nursing home gowns to improve the quality of life for the seniors.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.189-194
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• 2016

The objectives of this research were to study the effect of salt-shrinkage finishing of silk on shrinkage degree and dyeing property of cochineal, and to investigate the efficacy of obtained results for imparting surface design effect on silk fabric. Ultimately it was aimed to suggest a technical process for developing natural dyed silk products with diverse design. Premordanted silk fabric was treated with $Ca(NO_3)_2$ solution(gravity: 1.45) at $90^{\circ}C$ for 1 min, washed, dried for further evaluation. The shrinkage of salt-treated fabric was calculated. The effects of salt treatment on the dye uptake of cochineal and colorfastness were investigated. The degrees of shrinkage were 10% and 3% for warp and weft, respectively. The salt treatment resulted in improving dye uptake of cochineal slightly. In addition, it improved colorfastness to washing and light. On the basis of the results, a technical process composed of premordanting, salt treatment and natural dyeing was suggested and using the process, two examples of textile design were presented. It can be concluded to impart various three dimensional surface design effect on silk fabric by applying salt-shrinkage finishing with combination of natural dyeing and mordanting.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1053-1062
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• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.